IKEA furniture assembly has got to be one of the most polarizing activities known to mankind. I’ve met two types of people – those who can’t stand it, and those who enjoy it – until they have to drive in some Pozidriv screws.
IKEA is a European furniture maker, right? So of course it makes sense that they use European-style and metric fasteners. That means machine screws with hex socket recesses and wood screws with Pozidriv sockets.
That’s right, IKEA doesn’t use Phillips head screws, at least none that I’ve ever seen. Then use Pozidriv.
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Sure, you can drive Pozidriv wood screws with a Phillips screwdriver, it’s just not going to be a very enjoyable process. I have found that if I don’t use a great amount of fastener engagement pressure, the Phillips screwdriver will cam-out, often damaging the fastener head in the process.
What you’ve got to do is use a Pozidriv screwdriver with the Pozidriv wood screws.
Wera’s, shown above, has served me exceptionally well.
Wera screwdrivers typically have laser-etched tips, which help to improve grip and fastener engagement.
Pozidriv screwdrivers fit really well already, and the laser etched tip makes the experience even better.
This is what a Pozidriv screw head looks like. If you see the cross lines – thin diagonal lines between the main parts of the cross recess, it’s a Pozidriv screw.
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And this is what a Pozidriv screwdriver bit tip looks like. It has small barbs jutting out from between the main cross components.
What size do you need? Maybe 99.9% of all of the IKEA furniture I have ever assembled seemed to work really well with a Pozidriv #2 screwdriver or bit.
To be clear, I used – or attempted to use – a Phillips #2 screwdriver for a while before switching to the proper Pozidriv screwdriver.
There were just one or two times when a Pozidriv #1 screwdriver fit better, and if I recall correctly, the screws were smaller than usual.
Pozidriv screwdriver bits are far less expensive than the Wera screwdriver. If you can find some, it’s a valid option.
I’ve tried that too.
But it’s a lot harder to misplace a standalone screwdriver than a 1/4″ insert bit that requires the use of a 1/4″ hex bit screwdriver handle.
Maybe you already have a Pozidriv #2 screwdriver bit somewhere. Check the size markings or look for the specific tip profile.
But if you ask me, get the Wera and stick it in your IKEA furniture assembly tool kit.
Size: PZ 2×100 mm
Wera Model: 355 PZ SB
Wera SKU: 05100057001
Price: $13-14
Yes, it’s over $10. But i) Wera screwdrivers are pretty fantastic, and ii) just save this in the back of your mind. When you’re putting together IKEA furniture with a Phillips #2, and the curses start to fly, that’s when you’ll remember this post.
Then, when you drive in your first Pozidriv wood screw without cam-out, stripping, or any reason to let some expletives fly, you’ll see exactly what I mean. You’ll think – “it was worth it!”
When looking to see if there were any bit packs on Amazon I could recommend (there aren’t, at least not from the brands I prefer), I came across this Vessel multi-bit screwdriver.
I’m a fan of Vessel ball drivers, and this one comes with a Pozidriv 2 tip (PZ #2) and others.
It’s not much more affordable than the Wera, and doesn’t have laser-etched tips, but it seemed worth pointing out.
Hank
I bought that exact Wera driver a few years ago. Game changer! Crazy how much better it holds onto the pozi screws.
I also bought a set of japanese “phillips” (JIS) for our cars, which are both Toyotas, after realizing why I had such a hard time not messing up the screw heads .
The right tool for the job, I suppose!
Boyd
After working on motocross bikes, the importance of using a JIS drive on a JIS screw became really dang clear to me!
Look out for the dot!!
Mike
I own the Vessel screwdriver. The handle feels a bit light but the bits are solid and I have come to really enjoy the ball grip. Only gripe is trying to keep track of the extra bits and making sure they don’t get lost.
Jared
I own the Vessel too (and the Wera for that matter) – I love that set! One of my favorites for sure.
It’s especially handy for a quick electrical outlet install because the bit with flat blade can take off the face plate, then you flip it over for the screws inside.
Vessel’s tips might not be laser etched, but they are precise.
Jared
I don’t dispute the recommendation, but if I have to assemble Ikea furniture – I’m using my 12v cordless screwdriver. If I don’t have it, I’ll use a drill instead.
The clutch keeps you from damaging the product and the power tool prevents damage to your psyche.
Stuart
A bad experience a long time ago with a 3.6V/4V screwdriver makes me hesitant to use cordless tools.
I’ve used the Dewalt 8V Gyro screwdriver with good results, but I stop 80% of the way and hand tighten from there.
Ikea stuff can be temperamental. Their wood products are wood, MDF, particle board, or similar, which requires finesse.
I figure that those-in-the-know who can use cordless tools without messing up don’t need my input, and those who can use some advise might not be ready to tackle Ikea furniture with power tools.
Shawn Y
Speaking of the DeWalt 8V line, is it an abandoned line? I really liked the gyro swivel grip drill and flash light. They work great for light duty work and then nothing (I believe they had 2 other tools: the non-swivel version and conduit reamer). Maybe that’s really the only tools 8V can satisfactorily power w out going gimmicky (i.e. B&D’s powered tape measure)? I don’t have any in mind myself.
Regarding Ikea furniture, they’re really the best quality affordable furniture. They take a pozidriven impact driver on the low setting like a champ. Blipping the trigger keeps my assemblies from going awry. That can’t be said about Walmart/Office Max/BBB particle board furniture. I’ve helped enough friends move during college to ever touch those again.
Stuart
To my knowledge it’s still live and available, but that Dewalt simply hasn’t expanded it.
In a similar sense, Milwaukee never expanded beyond a single M4 tool.
Scott K
I’ll use my cordless drill on a low torque setting if there are lots of screws – I also prefer to finish tightening by hand.
You need to be careful with some of IKEA’s newer materials. I made the mistake of thinking I could easily drill a hole in a wall-mounted cube shelf to run a lamp wire. Beneath the veneer was a sort of honeycomb of what seemed like a cross between particle board and cardboard. It made a mess that I was able to clean up with a sharp xacto knife.
eddie sky
Finese indeed. I put a dowel through a panel…tap tap lol.
Mike
100% agree, I used my Dewalt 12v screwdriver and WERA Kraft form bit set. I did some IKEA file cabinets a few weeks back and couldn’t believe the difference. The entire tip geometry must be different. Because it actually holds the screw. I started the project using Phillips and thought my bit was finally worn out because of the cam out, just operator error. Wrong tool for the job
Koko The Talking Ape
Like the other guys, I’m nervous about IKEA’s materials. I use a ratcheting screwdriver, which is faster than an ordinary screwdriver, but easier to control than even weak power tools. And I use a Pozidriv insert bit. Cheaper than a dedicated PZ screwdriver!
fred
In our fabrication business we did aircraft restoration and refit work, So, encountering various fastener styles was never a surprise. The detritus that can flake off from using the wrong driver style (like a Phillips bit on a B.N.A.E. cross point screw could cost you repeat business or worse if it shorts out an instrument panel.
Back in the 1960’s some US car companies were using a cross point trim screw type called Freason out of Reed and Prince. Using a Phillips driver on them usually resulted in some cursing and swearing.
For driving PoziDriv screws – we used Apex Sel-O-Fit bits – which (I was told) provided better engagement than most PoziDriv bits. For the fabrication business. we bought most of our bits in bulk from Apex.
Vards Uzvards
For IKEA furniture – this one (not just PZ bits), if you can find it, of course.
https://www.toolstop.co.uk/makita-b-36170-ratchet-and-bit-set-47-piece/
Harris
https://www.amazon.com/Makita-B-50289-Ratchet-Bit-Piece/dp/B06XSP7NBR
Vards Uzvards
Makita has several sets which look pretty similar, but on close inspection of included bits you’ll see the differences. The B-50289 set is not good for IKEA/European furniture – it contains square drive bits instead of PZ, and some other bits are SAE, not metric.
Stuart
If we’re talking about general purpose bit sets, I really like Wera’s bit ratchet and mini handle kit https://www.amazon.com/Wera-056490-Tool-Check-Ratchet-Sockets/dp/B00I8MYMT2/?tag=toolguyd-20 A larger bit screwdriver handle would be a good complement.
There are smaller Bit-Check and ratchet sets https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Drive-Bit-Carrying-Case/dp/B004ISLNRO/?tag=toolguyd-20 , but I feel the larger Tool-Checks are a better value and give you a lot more for a little more money.
fred
https://apexbits.com/apex-sel-o-fit-screwdriver-bits.aspx
These are the sorts of bits we used for production driving of Pozidriv screws.
PW
I completely agree that using posidriv drivers for Ikea furniture makes a big difference.
I have numerous unbranded posidriv bits from various assortments over the years. I only use them for Ikea assembly. I haven’t found a need to buy a dedicated driver, posidrive seems so rare in my life.
I remember a decade ago it seemed to be making inroads, and it seems like torx displaced it rapidly for some reason. I prefer torx but the pseudo backwards compatibility of posidriv seemed like a plus.
TomD
The “compatibility” is its downfall. Torx I have to go get the right driver – but posidirve and the phillips-like are close enough that you’re like “eh it’s only four screws” …
Doug N
I’ve tried Posidriv bits and screwdrivers with many euro hinges, cabinets, and IKEA furniture, and I still prefer a ph2 drywall bit, which sinks into the fastener more than a regular #2 Phillips or a Posidriv. Even less camout than Posidriv, although I admit I’ve never used Wera bits or drivers.
MM
I first encountered pozidriv fasteners when working with EAO switches that I used in the lab equipment I built. The contact blocks all used pozidriv screws. It was actually a giant hassle–not that there was anything wrong with the switches or the screws, but at that time I didn’t have my own office to secure tools in and people kept “borrowing” my Pozi driver and bits having confused them with Philips. A little later I also needed a JIS driver for commercial video equipment and it was the same problem: people would confuse it for a Philips and then walk off with it. I haven’t touched a JIS fastener in a few years but I still like the EAO switches so my Pozi tools still get some use here and there.
Derek
I just use a #2 Phillips. I also use a hex bit ratchet set so I don’t have to mess with the crappy allen wrenches they provide. One day I’ll get some nice ball-end hex wrenches.
Now that I have the Wera tool check I’ll use one of those bits the next time I assemble something from Ikea.
Joellikestools
I used my Wera toolcheck and a set of Bondhus ball end drivers(which you can find on sale for about 20 dollars and are great) to build a giant Ikea armoire and the combo worked great.
Robert
Posterity also approves of Wera screwdrivers. People have noticed Wera screwdrivers in various episodes of the Sci-Fi series, “The Expanse.” Like the VDE screwdrivers in a tool case, and the characteristic green on black. FAor example, one of the small electronics rotating screwdriver in Season 6, Episode 4 at the 13 minute mark. I guess Wera looks futuristic enough for the set designers.
fred
My favorite “screwdriver” scene from a movie was Dan Akroyd in “The Blues Brothers” pulling out a long Yankee push driver to remove the control panel in the elevator at the Cook County office building. Just one more hilarious (to me anyway) absurdity in that movie.
Greg
I use my M12 4 in 1 driver for this type of work
Hilton
I have to laugh, Americans finally catching up with the rest of the world.
Tim D.
I don’t know about the rest of the world. Canada’s still rocking Robertson’s everywhere.
David+A.
PoziDrive. Another learning experience from Toolguyd. Had no idea what the weird looking screwhead was. Thanks.
Vards Uzvards
Pozidriv, one character shorter, just like in the title of this article.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives#Pozidriv
Michael F
Okay I’ll admit it. I never once considered that IKEA wood screws were anything other than PH and all of my frustration with IKEA wood screw cam-outs makes so much more sense now. I’m not sure if it was intended to be or not but this was an extremely helpful PSA.
RCWARD
Why would you be buying that much stuff from IKEA?
fred
Maybe you want take-apart furniture at a reasonable cost. IKEA never impressed me much – but others must like it. It began slowly in the 1940’s but they say that in 2008 it became the world’s largest furniture retailer,
A few years back I invested in a Lamello Zeta P2 so that I could build knock-down furniture using their Clamex system of connectors. I had requests from my family for a set of furniture that would be easy to transport back and forth to college. Using the Clamex connectors gave lots of choices for woods and finishes beyond the typical flakeboard you see in many store-bought “easy-to-assemble” furniture pieces. I have now built quite a few pieces – perhaps even paying back the pricey Lamello stuff. BTW – I see that Lamello has just introduced new Clamex connectors that use screws to secure them into pockets that can be cut with a standard biscuit jointer. Perhaps not as elegant as using the Zeta machine – but sounds like it cuts your initial investment cost way down.
Michael F
Honestly, because I can replace all of the IKEA furniture in my house 10 times over before I’ve spent the cost of a single finely crafted heirloom piece. Which isn’t to say that I don’t have a few of those – I’ve got at least one Drexel Curio Cabinet that is incredible – but there is definitely room for IKEA furniture in any home if you enjoy modern design and don’t want to commit to furniture you have to keep for life.
Stuart
Diaper changing table.
Cribs.
Kids dressers.
Kids bookcases.
Bookcase.
Side table.
Kids night tables.
Dressers for myself and my wife (lasted maybe 15 years and through 3 moves).
TV stand until we figure out where it’ll go for good on the wall.
Printer cart.
Office cabinet.
Office cabinet on clearance.
A lot of these carts – https://14cyiuhvcgv.com/ikea-raskog-cart-cheap-rolling-helper/%3C/a%3E .
Wall cabinets.
More wall cabinets.
Computer desk.
There are 5 options:
Buy from a furniture store and get veneered particle board. Buy from high-end design stores and get veneered particle board. Buy from a furniture maker at a high price and wait months. Make it myself which isn’t an option for temporary or immediate needs.
Or I can just get something from Ikea when suitable.
fred
Quite a few years ago we bought a pretty pricey living room suite at a Drexel Heritage store. The gate-leg drop-leaf coffee table was advertised as solid wood construction. Some years later an edge of the top chipped exposing the underlying particle board. While I wasn’t expecting Sam Maloof quality from a production house like Drexel – I did expect better.
For many years now I have built furniture as a hobby. Mostly I copy others designs- not having the talent to design from scratch. What I made in the 1970’s was pretty simple and crude (bookcases, tables and cabinets) but I like to think that I’ve gotten better. For me, finishing was (and still is) the most time-consuming part of the process. At best, I can complete only a few pieces per year – but don’t work at it every day – and obviously not at all during periods of travel.
My conclusion is that If I had to have furnished my 3 domiciles with furniture that I made – I’d have been sitting on crates for a long time. Similarly, if I had insisted that all my furniture was of the highest quality – I would have had no money to have invested in my business, pay the mortgage, educate my children or provide much else. Rock stars may spend $100k or more on a sofa – but most of us make do with ones that you don’t have apoplexy if the dog sits on it, or the cat scratches it.
Scotty.
Because a roomful of good real wood furniture will cost a year’s salary…
TonyT
Ikea has its place, just like Harbor Freight, Home Depot, Walmart, etc.
I like their keyboard drawer, because it’s big enough for a compact keyboard + mouse.
I like their systems that you can customize from a selection of parts that are meant to go together, for example, Ivar pine storage, billy book case (you can get doors!), Pax wardrobes, etc.
Koko The Talking Ape
I think the typical market is young couples setting up a first household, or older people on a budget. I’ve started giving a bitholder screwdriver and a Pozidriv bit to newly married couples, with the instruction that it’s specifically for IKEA stuff.
Scott F
Ugh, back when I would try to bargain shop on eBay for snap on I bought a misc assortment of stuff, one piece of which was a pozidriv screwdriver. It is my most used screwdriver, although it never seems to fit just right.
I’ll be damned if I didn’t until now think that it was a branding thing…
Time to swap that with a real Phillips driver. Aye aye aye!
eddiesky
I got a set of Milwaukee POZI drive bits https://www.milwaukeetool.com/products/shockwave-impact-pozidriv-bits that are 2″ long, work well in my Dewalt GyroDriver and my Wera bit driver handle (RapidaptorT-handle).
I really like the Gyro and assembled an entire IKEA Sektion kitchen, bedroom set (Bureau, bed) and was paid to do IKEA installs for others.
IKEA also sells a set of tools JUST for assembly: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/fixa-17-piece-tool-kit-00169254/ for $13.
What I want to find are sex bolts for IKEA Shelves (Billy) to connect together. Ideally, the right diameter to minimize drilling…and prefer to use the top and bottom back unused shelf holes.
Mike
Sex bolts is funny
eddiesky
Right? Until its a thing…
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/sex-bolts/
Joe H
I usually just throw a pozi bit into a mega pro ratcheting screwdriver. I keep pozi bits in my case with an assortment of specialty screw bits so I don’t misplace them and I always have them in my modular tool box.
Wayne R.
I’d likely immediately purchase:
A thorough Power-Bit set (4″ or 6″) in a folder/keeper, and if the set’s thorough enough, a cheat sheet marking out the diff between JIS versus Pozi (etc.), and marked bits, even color coded to something like PB Swiss hex wrenches.
(Insert bits, to me, are a necessary evil – until I find a 2″ or longer Power Bit to use in both handles &/or machines.)
I’m waiting on a “Tamper Resistant Pentalobe” bit set (yes, that’s redundant on the tamper resistance), just got another set of “normal” bits that included a bunch of slim cabinet tip slotted tips. Plus all the usual bits for Torx & hex nuts, etc.
It’s a mess and I haven’t found a way to keep them organized & portable. It’s not total chaos, but it’s close enough to keep me looking. Something like a drill index would be pretty slick, I think.
Any savior out there aware of something?
bjtheone
For the standard 1″ insert bits a 22 LR ammo box (mtm case guard) is a great solution. Amazon has a bunch of choices. Very durable plastic, solid closure and bits stay organized even if you turn the box upside down.
Mill out two rows of the dividers and you can pack 80 bits, mini ratchet, and an extension in a 3.5 x 3.5 x 1.5 space
Joe
I got a pozidriv bit in an old set of durabuilt tools from target I think.. IDK, it was a small set when I had an apartment, had a fair number or useful tools in it, still use those Pozidriv bits for IKEA/euro hinges. I have upgraded to using a cordless drill/driver on low torque (or I adjust the torque when I am doing a LOT, like the 20+ cabinets I built for my mother to display glass sculptures). I also REALLY like my craftsman gyroscopic screwdriver, it’s slow (dewalt one is too fast/sensitive), controllable, intuitive, and allows me to hand torque after releasing the button.
pozidriv has an extra X across the phillips +, and JIS has a dot or an x on one side/quarter
as for organizing, get one of the bosch or dewalt/craftsman organizers and customize it’s layout
Charles
rockler has a good cheap one. i use it for euro hinge adjustment
GarlicBanana
This bit set from Wera is what I keep on hand for the PZ stuff.
2 PZ1, 3 PZ2, and a PZ3
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003KN3G4Q
Kevin Broderick
There is another area in which pozi screws are common–ski bindings. Most binding screws are PZ3, and stripped heads from people erroneously using Phillips drivers are not uncommon.
Having said that, finding good pozi screwdrivers and bits isn’t always easy, so you’ve now tempted me to upgrade mine.