A reader wrote in, asking for help in picking out a cordless right angle drill. These tools are designed for drilling holes and driving fasteners in the tightest of spaces.
Right angle drills don’t see as much progress as traditional pistol grip drills, and presumably due to the gearing and power transmission needs, they’re nowhere near as powerful.
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Victor asked:
I e-mailed dewalt and their response was a bit vague {this can be confusing – it’s about newton meters and UWO and inch pounds}. I have for some time been interested in an 18v 90 degree drill. I like and know that the Bosch and Milwaukee torque-wise are about 150 inch pounds {you helped me a while back with one of my drills 60 newton meters = 531 inch pounds}.
Anyways to make a long story short I would like to know how many inch pounds the DCD740B puts out, I may be wrong but remember the latter output was something like “300” inch pounds …………as always your response will be greatly appreciated…………victor…………PS : I would like to know your opinion on these three and should I be looking at the makita……….THX.
In the USA, Dewalt only gives UWO specs, but their UK and other foreign sites and distributors often list torque in newton meters as well.
According to Dewalt’s UK page for the DCD740 drill, it delivers 33 N of hard torque (they give soft and hard torque specifications, a discussion for another time), which is 292 in-lbs.
Since Vitor mentioned Hitachi some time before, there’s also the DN18DSLP4 with 3/8″ chuck. I can’t find the torque rating for the Hitachi anywhere.
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On paper, the Dewalt is faster and more powerful than the Bosch, Milwaukee, and Makita right angle drills, but do you need a lot of torque?
None of these models have very strong standout features. I think the Bosch is the only one with a 1/2″ chuck, the Dewalt seems to have higher specs, the Makita has an auxiliary handle (that you probably won’t need).
I’d pick whichever one you already have batteries for, or whichever platform you see yourself buying more tools from down the road, or simply based on price. I’ve used some of these models, but find myself unable to tell you anything special about them.
Buy Now (Dewalt Kit via Amazon)
Buy Now (Bosch Kit via Amazon)
Buy Now (Makita Bare Tool via Amazon)
Buy Now (Milwaukee Kit via Home Depot)
Not considering any other factors, I think my pick would be for the Dewalt, or Bosch if I planned on using 1/2″ shank accessories, although its torque probably wouldn’t be suited for larger 1/2″ accessories.
For those of you that use right angle drills on a regular basis, which one did you pick, and would you recommend it to others?
Hilton
What do most DIYers use an angle drill for?
Stuart
They’re useful for drilling into cabinetry, drawers, and things like that where a full drill can be awkward or impossible to use.
ravenzfusion
I use a right angle impact with hex shank bits. More compact
Jimmie
I use an M12 right-angle drill. It’s a little more compact than the M18 version and noticeably lighter once you factor in the battery.
Chris
I picked up the Ryobi 18V because I already had the batteries. Its a fairly low use tool for me so the less expensive the better, but the Ryobi did great anyway.
I used it to drill holes through joists in a finished drywall ceiling to run wires for lighting. It really cut down on the amount of drywall cutting and patching that I needed to afterwards.
Drew M
UWO??? Ultimate Watts Out? UnderWater Oatmeal?
I was thinking the other day I should get a right angle drill for drilling wiring holes in studs and such.
I looked at the little Bosch 12v one and I was really disappointed that it didn’t come anywhere close to the torque of their regular 12v drill. Seems a waste to have no torque from a tool with a nice long handle.
I didn’t really bother to look at the 18v version after that but now I’m sort of curious
Stuart
Right angle drills, even with their lower torque, are (usually) more than capable of drilling a 3/4″ hole into a stud. I haven’t used them to drill holes much larger than that.
Stuart
Sorry, I should have clarified – I used 3/4″ spade bit. Using hole saws of larger sizes should definitely be possible.
Drew M
The 18v ADS181 only makes 145in*lb of torque?? The little 12v PS31 puts out 265in*lb! The DDS-181 manages 600in*lb. Why do all these right angle drills have NO torque?
What do you do if you want to use a large ship auger or hole saw in a tight space?
Don
You go buy a Milwaukee Hole Hawg.
Drew M
Looks like the problem is that the Bosch units don’t have the 2 speed gearbox to get more torque in the lower gear. My little PS31 BARELY has enough torque in low to drive my 1″ ship auger. The Dewalt appears to have a two speed gearbox but they don’t list the torque…
adam
If you have a s lot of stud drilling, I’d rather have a good 12v drill that can get in the stud space (might need a stubby spade bit). That’s what I ended up using for wiring a new house, and then had a dewalt right angle adapter for a couple awkward holes.
The only beefy drill I needed was to put a hole thru a LVL, which if I could have, would avoided
victor
I love bosch but you are “dead-on” the 12v right angle drill from bosch is “gut-less” . I along with some friends returned all of them, with a 1″ spade bit we barely made six holes on a 2×4………..victor.
Nathan
I saw a contractor use the dewalt to run a hole saw for what looked like about 1-1/2 or slightly more diameter – for plumbing. seems to run it fine.
I’d suspect either the bosch 18 or the milwaukee 18 would do similar. would like to see dewalt throw in the brushless and gear drive of their higher end drill but either way.
I’d also consider if you could get away with just using one of the decent right angle or near right angle drill attachments. they work pretty well – not as tight quarters as a proper right angle but they do work for many things.
I really wish dewalt made a 3/8 drive ratchet head out of their right angle drill in 20V. or they made the MAC tool in 20V with more power. but I don’t want much.
Chance
Don’t get too caught up in numbers, the DeWalt right angle drill will run 7/8″ self feeding bits no problem. One thing I really like about the DeWalt is that it has an extremely deep throat, it will almost swallow a 2″ bit, that means you have an overall shorter profile when using self-feeding bits and standard drills. I keep meaning to look at some of the other RA drills to see if they have the same deep throat but I haven’t yet
Michael Quinlan
I have the current Milwaukee M18 right-angle drill and would definitely NOT recommend it. Lack of a multi-speed gear box severely limits the torque (125 in-lbs) – about 1/3 of what my old DeWalt 18V was capable of (330 in-lbs on speed 1). I’ve been seriously considering using a right-angle impact driver as a replacement.
SteveR
Admittedly off-topic, but I bought a brushless DeWalt DCF895B (bare tool) 20V impact driver a few years back. At the time, it was listed on Amazon as having an output of 1500 inch pounds of force. That’s equivalent to 125 foot lbs. (1500 inch-pounds divided by 12), which was pretty decent at the time. However, unless you’re an engineer, most of us don’t/won’t know what that means in terms of twisting and setting power. I believe the torque setting on my Toyota’s wheel lugs is about 100 foot-pounds so, theoretically, this should be able to set or remove them with a 21mm impact socket. That means more to me than the UWO rating they’re so fond of citing.
Perhaps what may be more useful is what size fasteners (in terms of length and diameter) the tool can handle. The manufacturers could cite these torque values, but also put a face on them by explaining how many fasteners of a given size their product can set or remove on a full charge. I know that is subject to puffery on their part, but at least it gives you a relative value that can help determine if this or that driver can best suit your needs. If one manufacturer claims its tool can set 175 fasteners of a given size and another 190, I wouldn’t pick the latter’s product simply on being able to drive 15 extra screws. That comes down to the vagaries of temperature, use, battery condition, etc., rather than being an absolute indicator of superiority. There are other factors, such as the tool’s weight, overall size, chuck (3/8″ or 1/2″), number of speed ranges (whether it has a single speed, or two or three), etc., that are more important to the individual buyer in making that purchase decision.
Drew M
I suspect most torque specs for drill and impact drivers are a ‘peak’ or stall torque so it isn’t the amount of ‘useful’ torque but it does allow to to compare apples to apples… in the sense that one apple might be McIntosh and the other Granny Smith but still generally all apples. The UWO stinks of the same marketing non-sense ratings companies put on most products these days. I believe my shopvac claims something like 5hp which is obviously impossible when you can only get about 1.5hp worth of power from a 115vac outlet. It also stinks of an attempt to make their tools harder to compare to the competition’s tools.
I looked into lugnut specs a while back and found that most cordless impact drivers (not impact ‘wrenches’) could probably remove the lowest spec’d lugs but far from most lugs. While I haven’t put any of my tools on any sort of torque transducers, I suspect the real world ‘useful’ torque range for most of these tools is maybe half to 3/4 of their rated torque. There are times where my little 12v impactor would get the job done but it sounds awful and it would take forever. I’ll switch to my 18v and it just plugs right along and drives the fastener.
Nathan
for a drill – speed is probably a bit more important to me than torque output. usually because they all have geared drives now. so major torque on the low speed setting doesn’t mean as much to me. nice to have but is it necessary.
I might be an odd duck – but when I drill I am usually using the high speed setting for most drills. Now hole saws – different matter low speed and there torque is important but with today’s drills I can’t imagine a cordless with a 1/2 chuck not running a whole saw effectively.
UWO – unit watts output. it’s misleading a bit but it is a power rating which power is torque x rpm and time applied.
Adam
If cordless isn’t absolutely needed, I’ll throw in a vote for the Milwaukee close quarter compact drill (0370-20). Sadly, they no longer make the 1/2″ chuck version, but even with a 3/8″, it’s still a very useful tool.
JMG
Makita has two different configurations available in the 18v lineup. One is the keyless chuck and the other keyed. I purchased the keyed model chuck because it is approximately one inch shorter in depth and will fit into a tighter space than the keyless model. I also use this drill generally with 5/8 and 3/4 inch boring bits with good results. When using boring bits to punch holes through studs, the provided side handle is very useful in maintaining control when the bit breaks through the other side. I personally do not use spade bits unless I am using a custom ground shape for some specialty application. The torque on the Makita is fine for general drilling applications, but the variable speed can be a bit twitchy on this model with its paddle style switch. Otherwise, it is an excellent medium duty side drill that does not disappoint.
Tool User
On the Makita, in addition to the keyed chuck being physically more compact, it allows the bit to seat deeper into the chuck.
If total head depth is a driving criteria, then purchasing a unit with a keyless chuck is going in the wrong direction. All the keyless chucks I have used are not specifically designed to seat a bit extra deep into the chuck.
The deep chucking is also a great advantage with stubby bits. I re-sharpened a set of standard bits, shortening the flutes and retaining the shank length. When fully seated, my exposed bit is approximately 1″. I can back the bit out of the chuck, while still getting a adequate chuck grip, and achieved a hole depth of ~2″.
Since applying downward pressure can sometimes be a limitation, stubby spade and auger bits with a screw tip can be very helpful in the appropriate materials.
fred
When I first saw this (0370-20) style drill – they were made by Sioux – and aimed at use in shops and the aircraft industry. Sioux is still in business – but seems to concentrate on air tools. We never bought one of the Sioux but had 1 Milwaukee 0375-6 (3/8 chick) in our cabinet shop.
As far as right angle drills – my professional experience (now back a few years) was that no right angle drill was correct for everything. Our installers were using Milwaukee M12 tools – including the 2415-20. We also had 18V Makita (this was our 18V platform) BDA350Z. We would not have considered these for use with big selfeeds for plumbing rough in. For that task we used corded right angle Milwaukee Hole Hawgs – and then when they became available – Super Hole Hawgs. I know that my ex-compatriots have now bought a couple of M18 Fuel Super Hole Hawgs and are using them for everything except the toughest drilling where corded tools are still engaged.
busf
I have the bosch ads181 and it works great. Enough torque to run spade bits and augers. A little bulky, but it has more power and a lot better run time than my Dewalt 18V stick battery right angle drill i retired.
Jim Felt
I’ve acquired over the years both 12v Bosch right angle drills, the 18v version, a (obviously corded) geared Hole-Hawg for real work and the wildly overpriced Makita right angle wrenches. Oh, and power vs. economics my all time favorite is still the little corded Sioux key chuck angle drill.
The 18v Bosch would be my “compromise” DIYer suggestion. My apparent right angle “drill” fetish is mostly due my model railroad bench work use. Followed by the Hole Hawg for wiring and the power wrenches for rapid (but not HD) bolt assembly.
Pablo
Right angle chucks will satisfy most people, one less tool to find a box for.
Lukas
I used a Milwaukee M18 right angle drill at work today for the first time. It got the job done, but I wasn’t that impressed. I haven’t used that type of drill that often though.
Noah
I used an M18 right angle to run a 1-3/4″ forstner bit thru 3/4″ ply the other day. it did just fine.
A right angle drill is one of those tools that isn’t used every day, but a huge pain and problem solver when it is.
Jerry
I used a DeWalt 18V in the past, and appreciated the two speed gearbox when I had to drill a 7/16 hole in steel, in an awkward place. a right angle adapter on a regular drill wouldn’t fit. Even in low gear, the power wasn’t overwhelming. I also have a Milwaukee Magnum Hole Shooter, and got the Milwaukee right angle attachment for it, the one that clamps onto the drill body. Milwaukee really got that accessory right, as it clamps to the body of the drill, so you don’t need an extra hand to hold it, and instead of being geared 1:1 it has a reduction/overdrive gear ratio. Install it one way, and you get more torque at a lower top speed. Reverse it, and you get higher speed with more torque. It requires removing the chuck to install (then install the chuck on the attachment) so it isn’t quick and handy to use, but it saved my bacon a couple times when I needed a high torque right angle drill, and that was all I had.
For occasional use, I’d suggest the right angle drill attachment for the Jobmax, if you have compatible batteries. You can swap out the right angle drill with the oscillating tool, and can position it one of 4 ways to the power head. I believe the attachments for them are compatible between the Ridgid and Ryobi lines. Probably good enough for most DIY use.
Jerry
I meant higher speed but with less torque. I need to re read my posts more before I submit! Sorry about that.
Drew M
I was looking at the Ridgid/Roybi kit last night and was disappointed that the right angle drill doesn’t have a 2 speed gearbox. That bit of kit would be pretty sweet if they just added a 2 speed gearbox to the power units as I think most of the tools would benefit.
john
I have the Dewalt and its a nice powerful drill. The paddle switch takes a little while to get used to but I don’t regret the purchase.
Toolpig
I use the Makita keyed chuck right angle drill for its best in class size. It really is the smallest available. Power is very respectable I also use the right angle 18v impacts from milwaukee and Makita. The Milwaukee has more power but the Makita is smaller and has a better chuck that allows you to get into tighter spots.
John L
I have the Dewalt DCB740. I am heavily invested in the M18 platform but do keep a few 20V max tools around when they are superior to the Milwaukee offering. The Dewalt has gobs of torque which is something the Milwaukee didn’t have. I knew the Milwaukee wasn’t for me when I saw a TIA video where the drill on half power stalled driving a 2″ wood screw.
JoeM
I never really saw a purpose to the 90 degree drills for myself. Is it really just for tight spaces and reaching corners to drill? Cabinets and Plumbing, basically?
I’d love a complete list of things that can be done specifically with the 90 degree tool. There are a lot of things that 90 degree attachments achieve. Is it really needed for a dedicated tool? Or is it a preference thing?
fred
No 90-dgree attachment that I know of can handle a big selfeed bit for roughing in plumbing or conduit work. Otherwise as you say its usually more a matter of convenience and productivity.
Can D.
I’ve been using DeWalt 18V 90° for almost 8 years now, still runs like the first day. I even used it to drill out 3/8” bolts with broken heads from sides of my engine block without lifting the engine. A long distance runner perfect for confined spaces. Additionally, the batteries turned out to be surprisingly long-lived as well.