As mentioned a couple of times across ToolGuyd.com and our Instagram channel, I have been working to assemble a new Prusa 3D printer, the i3 MK3S+.
Prusa gives you a tool set with the 3D printer kit, namely a selection of straight and ball hex keys, a Phillips #2 screwdriver, and small needlenose pliers. I gave the included tools a shot, but after the first few steps, I realized that I’ll get faster and easier results with my own tools.
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Here’s what I’ve been using:
Hex Keys and Bits
I’m a big fan of PB Swiss tools, especially their color-coded hex keys. I also have stubby ball end hex keys in another tool box, but didn’t need them here as my standard metric hex keys worked just fine.
The 3mm hex key came in handy for initial frame assembly, and the 2.5mm hex key is used throughout the build.
For the 1/4″ hex insert bits, I’ve been using PB Swiss and the latest Milwaukee Tool Shockwave bits.
If you look closely, there’s also a 2.5mm Wera hex screwdriver to the right. I bought that a couple of years ago when working on a large project with many M3 fasteners, and precision screwdrivers weren’t quite cutting it. It’s pricier now than it used to be (at least via Amazon), and so if I didn’t have it available I’d at least make sure to source a second 2.5mm bit to use with a larger screwdriver handle.
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A 2mm hex bit comes in handy later on for heated bed assembly.
Screwdriver Bit Drivers
I used a small Wera screwdriver bit holder for a single M2 fastener, used to secure an IR sensor. I went with the Wera bit holder because it has a locking bit chuck rather than a magnetic one.
Most of the assembly is done with 2.5mm hex driver. I would say that about 60% of the work is done with this Scout Leather Co. titanium screwdriver (purchased for review purposes, more about it later), and 40% with the ball-end hex key.
Pliers
The Knipex pliers wrench has come in handy, and in more places than I thought it would, mainly for gently pressing square nuts into recesses in the 3D printed frame and axes components.
The precision pliers are NWS. They aren’t used very often, but the couple of times they’re needed, they do a better job than the included needlenose pliers.
Additional Tools
Long X-Acto tweezers help with screw and nut placements. I have a PB Swiss tapered alignment punch that I’ve started using to help wiggle inserted nuts into place. You’re advised to use one of the included hex keys to check for nut placement alignment in a couple of steps, but I started using the tapered punch with decent results.
The ball hex on the 3mm hex key has also been used to press M3 hex nuts into position, and I have used the flat handle of the tweezers as well.
I busted out a couple of small parts bins for extruder assembly, as there were more fastener sizes than used in previous steps. Some of the screw lengths were close in size, and so separating them helped to avoid confusion.
Are Any of These Tools Needed?
Not really. As mentioned, the Prusa kit comes with a set of basic hand tools and everything you might need for assembly. But, using my own tools provided for an easier and faster experience so far.
In Prusa’s online instructions, there are more than a couple of comments from users who have cracked some of the 3D printed parts. And in the printed instructions, there are warnings about not over-tightening and cracking the fan housings or other parts. Control and feel is necessary here, which is why I opted to only use hand tools and not any cordless screwdrivers of any kind.
It wasn’t after I took this photo that I realized these are all fairly premium brands. More affordable brands would have worked just as well, such as Bondus hex keys and Xuron pliers.
fred
While tweezers and hemostats work – I inherited a specialized nut grabber that works on tiny nuts:
https://westernoptical.com/products/universal-nut-grabber
and I use an Ullmann Devices G2 for somewhat larger ones. Ullmann also make screw starters that can come in handy – but sometimes ones from HJJ and Quickwedge (now Kedman) seem to work better on smaller screws .
https://www.jensentools.com/search?q=hjj+screw+holding+screwdriver
Stuart
Those wouldn’t work here. It’s not so much for holding small nuts in place, but maneuvering them where they need to go, often by holding them at a corner or by the side.
blocky
Fred, those are pretty cool. Didn’t know existed (but of course they do!)
Stuart, at my workbench, for delicate assembly, I also keep a generic pair of reverse-spring angle-nose tweezers that I bought from a craft store. They are fairly stiff for how incredibly fine they are.
I first used them professionally when hinge-mounting artworks on paper, but they have found many other uses, including positioning wires for soldering and arranging tiny gears back into gearboxes.
Similar to those nut-holders, but with the form factor of mini-pliers, it’s nice that hand pressure is not needed to retain the small parts during placement.
Love this post, btw.
Stuart
I too am a big fan of reverse-action tweezers. I just ordered a large one, and it’s okay so far.
MT_Noob
Wow, that is a great link from Fred regarding the universal nut grabber. I also did not know they existed, but now feel I must have one. I used to have a craftsman branded version of the G2 screw holder. I found it to be ideal when I needed it, but I didn’t always have it on hand and often had to rely on needle nose or a piece of tape to hold a screw in place while getting it started in a tricky location.
I’ve never learned to be able to use reverse spring tweezers. I don’t know why, I can see how they would be the perfect solution, but my reflex of squeezing in order to hold onto something is not something I can overcome. I guess it is sort of like left handed threads. I can tell myself a million times that it is a reverse thread, yet I am still by default going to try and go in the wrong direction initially. And it is the same for reverse tweezers. I am always going to drop the part a couple times before it sinks in that I need to just let the tweezer do the holding. Maybe I am just an old dog that can’t learn new tricks.
Jared
What is that (precision?) bit driver to the left of the green-handled Wera screwdriver? Silver with a black spin top. That looks nice.
And where did you source those precision 1/4″ insert bits? At least I think that’s what they are. There’s a gold colored one and a black one with red stripe in the picture.
William Adams
It’s the Scout Leather Co. driver which was mentioned:
https://www.scoutleatherco.com/product/hex-bit-driver-limited-edition
I’ve been wanting one for a while and it’s wonderfully nice, if a bit bulkier than the Silca T-ratchet kit I usually use, but I grab it when there are many screws to work w/ — usually the most common size driver ends up in the Scout.
Stuart
Scout Leather Co.
These are all 1/4″ hex bits.
I recently ordered 4mm bits, but only in SAE and Torx, not metric.
Gold: PB Swiss
Red Stripe: Milwaukee Shockwave
Milwaukee’s holiday season promo set provided 2 full sets of inch and metric hex bits, plus others, for $10.
https://14cyiuhvcgv.com/the-best-screwdriver-bit-set-deal-milwaukee-shockwave-70pc-set-112020/%3C/a%3E%3C/p%3E
I figured this was as good an application to put them to the test on.
Lyt
My Ender 3 Pro came with a bunch of hex keys for assembly. They were pretty decent, but a T-handle hex key set would have been handy.
Where did you get that little red container/tray from?
Stuart
Sortimo. I ordered bulk quantities for use in T-Boxxes that come with a removable second-level tray. Other brands have similar sized bins.
fred
The tray looks like a Packout insert
Brad
Don’t lie, you have at least 3 tool boxes on hand with everything and the extra kitchen sink you forgot to install 😉
Roy
I used a 2.5mm bit in a ratcheting screwdriver extensively when I put mine together last month. Have fun!
Michael
I used a very similar tool set to build my MK3S+ a few weeks back. Knipex pliers were so, so nice to have. The one change was that I used needle nose pliers instead of tweezers and I added metal picks.
Straight pick was used to center nuts. It was also used to clean out nut slots and square up the corners so that the nut would eventually make it in. Man did some suck to get in place.
Angled picks were used to pull nuts into slots. This was the biggest key for me; it helped a ton when I got frustrated.
Joseph
A nice ball end hex driver set, like the Bondhus ProHold, is invaluable.
Craig
Where can I get those pliers?
Scott
I use metric hex driver sets that I have from r/c drone building, but I’d suggest getting some MIP Thorp ball hex drivers, a little pricey but really nice and durable.
Bryn Parrott
What about feeler thickness gauges and wire tools for clearing blocked nozzles, wire brushes, files and scraper.
Are these used ?
Stuart
Maybe later, but not for machine assembly.