After today’s quick post about the new Hitachi cordless nailer, I took a trip to the workshop to test out some new review samples.
There were 3 nailers:
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- Hitachi 23 gauge pin nailer, purchased from Acme Tool
- Makita 18V XTP02Z pin nailer, provided by Home Depot
- Ryobi 18V pin nail nailer, also provided by Home Depot
The air nailer was powered by a Dewalt FlexVolt air compressor, reviewed here, connected using a purchased Hitachi air hose purchased from Amazon.
I tested the nailers using 3/4″ Grex pin nails, and also some starter 1″ pin nails included with the Ryobi nailer.
First, the Makita and Ryobi nailers are completely different tools. I’ll be reviewing them individually, shortly, but it seems like a good time to share a few words about their distinctions.
By completely different, I mean that they’re not just DIY vs. Pro, or “value” vs. “premium”; there are big differences in how the nailers operate.
Both had an easy time driving in 3/4″ and 1″ nails, and I’ll be trying 1-3/8″ nails next. Between the two, the Makita has a more slender grip. The Makita has a nose-based safety, while the Ryobi has a safety dual trigger switch system.
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With a nose-based safety, you have to press the tool to the work before squeezing the trigger. With the trigger-based safety, you have to hold down the safety lever before you can squeeze the trigger.
The Ryobi failed to fire nails a few times, but I also just opened it today. With a little use, muscle memory will kick in. Either I wasn’t holding the safety lever deep enough, or wasn’t pressing the trigger switch hard enough.
The Ryobi also comes with an edge guide attachment, which I haven’t tried out yet. It’s supposed to make it easier to place nails a fixed distance away from the edge of a panel or other workpiece.
The Hitachi also has a 2-part trigger, and I found that it works a lot better than Ryobi’s.
Here’s the size difference between my Hitachi air nailer (left), and Makita 18V cordless nailer (right). Yes, there’s a very noticeable difference in weight, too.
I have a Makita 2.0Ah battery pack that I’ll try with the nailer soon.
Here you can see the difference from the top. Yes, it’s a big difference. I do want to point out that I’m glad Makita went with this design.
Here’s a second look at the “side view” of both tools.
My first test material was a piece of 2×4. The Hitachi nose left square marks around most holes. The wood is soft and the non-marring tip is a little hard. It didn’t leave any marks on plywood, though, and my next test will be hard maple.
The driving depth adjustment on the Hitachi requires loosening and tightening of two hex bolts. It wasn’t very easy to dial in the depth this way, and so I adjusted the air flow by increasingly the pressure slightly. The Dewalt FlexVolt cordless air compressor made things easy.
On that point, I still haven’t made up my mind about the Dewalt compressor’s regulator. I do love the compresspr so far, but the lack of a second gauge throws me off every time I get back to it after using another compressor. I do love its easy to use regulator knob, though. I would not be surprised if we see more cordless air compressor options soon.
So with the Hitachi, the driving depth is easier to control via air pressure than with the nose adjustment, but it could be handy to have both options.
The Makita has an adjustment wheel, making it easier to dial in the exact driving depth you want, and it’s repeatable.
The Ryobi doesn’t have any depth adjustment, and the manual mentions nothing of the sort. The hex fasteners shown here are only to remove the drive guide cover plate for clearing jams. I at first assumed that the tool was adjusted in a similar way as the Hitachi, but was mistaken.
That brings up a question: Do you need depth adjustment on a tool like this? I’m going to need to experiment a bit more.
In theory, I’d like to see depth adjustment on the Ryobi cordless pin nailer. In practice, it doesn’t look like it’ll make a big difference.
All of these nailers have their little quirks. The Hitachi tip leaves marks on soft pine, the Makita jammed up once (it was easy to fix, and I’m not certain it was the nailer’s fault), and the Ryobi slightly over-drove 3/4″ nails.
I have more work to do with all three nailers, but so far I am liking all three designs. I wouldn’t say one is better than the others, they’re all simply different.
So far, though, I don’t have any regrets in going with the Hitachi air nailer.
Since I don’t mind the need for an air hose and compressor, I have no regrets about my Hitachi purchase. But I do also like the appeal of being able to work cord-free. Let’s say you’re working on a big project, or are in a client’s home. There are benefits to not having to drag an air hose around, or to deal with the noise most portable air compressors give off.
The size and weight difference is pretty significant.
Here are the Hitachi and Ryobi pin nailers compared.
Power-wise, the cordless nailers seemed to be as capable as the air nailer. I’ll pick up a pack of 1-3/8″ nails to confirm this. But 3/4″ and 1″ nails? No problem.
I am also excited to check out the new Hitachi cordless pin nailer. If its tool-less depth adjustment mechanism works as well as Makita’s, or better, it’ll be a winner. It looks like it could be more compact than the Makita, but looks can be deceiving.
While cordless nailers are all somewhat big and bulky compared to air nailers, the size difference seems to be most striking with pin nailers, the smallest nail size you could usually buy.
I have more work to do before I can formally review any of these nailers. If you have any questions or test requests, please let me know and I’ll try my best to answer them!
Which would I buy right now? I’d buy the same Hitachi air pin nailer all over again. If I worked on physically large projects or in clients’ homes, I’d look more closely at Makita and Ryobi cordless models, or the upcoming cordless Hitachi. It can be liberating to work free from cords, hoses, and air compressor noise, if you’re willing to deal with a larger and heavier tool.
Thank you to Home Depot for providing the Makita and Ryobi test samples!
Todd
I have the Makita 23g pinner and it is pretty handy for certain tasks. For softer woods it works pretty much 100%, all nails sub-flush. I did find its limitations, however, when trying to nail some pre-finished maple toekick miters together. It would adequately sink about 75% of the nails but left several proud, which isn’t easily remedied as you cant set these micro pins. I broke out the tiny Senco compressor and finished the kicks with a Cadex 21g (which is a fantastic gun). The slight headed 21g brads leave a hole very similar in size to the 23g but hold much better.
Todd
I forgot to add (was really the reason I was going to reply) that the 5.0 battery on the Makita makes the tool look much bulkier then it really is. With the 2.0, it is more or less the same height as the Hitachi air gun, and is also effectively about 2 inches shorter if you factor the air fitting in.
Julian Tracy
That Makita looks to be the 2nd generation model. The 1st Gen was, from most accounts, a bit of a dog. The very worst thing a pin nailer can do is to not sink the nails. It’s near impossible to get half sunk nails out without damaging the surface of the trim unless they are sticking out a 1/4″ or more. With that situation, you can maybe use some needle nose pliers to snap it off flush or just below the trim’s surface. But most half sunk pins are sticking out 1/8″ or less and those are near impossible to remove without damage.
Have high hopes for the new Makita, but not many reviews in yet. I pretty much only run long pins in my gun, I think they’re 1 3/16″. I currently use the same Hitachi you have and previously had a Bostich that stopped working dependably.
I’m not sure why anyone would run that gun with a fat 5.0 battery, seems it’s tailor made for a slim 2.0 batt. Although, I did find the 1st gen to be well balanced in the hand even with a fat pack battery.
Interesting that Makita can make a great looking pin nailer yet their 18ga brad gun is a monstrosity! Seriously though – have you seen that? It’s the darn size of a toaster…
I use pin nailers for glued and assembled prefinished cabinet crown, light rail, scribe molding and for general trim return ends among other uses. Often a pin nail is the perfect tool for a little bit of clamping while glue dries for oddball circumstances.
Stuart, let me know if you need a hand with the long term durability testing of that Mak nailer….
Stuart
I paired it with a 5.0Ah battery because that’s what I had charged and ready. *blush*
I have quite a bit of work and testing planned for it, but I’ll consider you for if/when I can part with it.
John S
So far im loving my Makita pin nailer (v2). I think one of the understated features is the redesign top which lets you invert the whole gun and shoot upside down with your pinkey about as flush as I’ve ever seen a pin nailer do even of air powered ones. The only strange part, at least to me, in the manual it doesn’t show compatibility with 1 1/4 pins which are much easier to get in the box stores than the next step up from 1 inch pins in the manual of 1 3/16. As far as driving flush I haven’t had much issues as long as I keep my expectations straight. 1 inch pins have been nearly flawless and at least for me if I’m going above 1 1/4 I probably need to step up to 18 or 21 gauge.
The yeti
All i have is an 18 ga combo nailer / stapler. Its an air job.
As i get more creative maybe ill find use for a cordless pin nailer. I would likely buy a framing nailer first though .
That would mean finally pulling the trigger and adding ryobi into the mix of bosch tools i currently use .
Steven
I have seriously looked into the cordless market of brad nailers, while active in construction you have to talk to finishing tradesmen and so far nothing has given me any reason to jump cordless. Reliability and consistency of operation all being an issue
However, dewalts cordless compressor is something to consider….makes me want to jump over to the mustard side haha
Roger
I’m with you. As a cabinet guy I’m using my 23ga constantly and a well built and reliable gun is mandatory. A cordless model is very appealing to me for many reasons but I don’t get the impression from what I see that the technology is there yet. I’m currently using a Grex 23ga and it has 2 things going for it that none of the cordless do. First, it’s build very well and sinks the pin every time. Second, it has a 2” nail capacity. This is perhaps the most important feature I would like to see in a cordless.
Jonathan
The 5AH definitely make the cordless look and feel bulky and heavy, I don’t have the pin nailer yet, but I bought the 18ga finish nailer and 18 ga crown stapler from Ryobi and picked up the Milwaukee 15ga 30° angled nailer kit in Cyber monday for $199 but will more than likely resale it for the $199, (was thinking for some reason it was the cordless angled framing nailer like DeWalt (not enough difference in size between the 15ga and 18ga to keep both but it was 50% if the normal everyday price).
All three will sink largest loadable fastener flush or deeper in my test with a stack of Bamboo and Oak flooring scraps.
One thing that I wish the Milwaukee had thst the Ryobis have are LEDs that light the working area (as well as flash when the battery is getting low, I use the 1.5AH with the Ryobis and the Milwaukee came with a 2AH. The Milwaukee (pile driving head – best way I can explain) is smaller than a 12oz coke can and the Ryobis power heads are closer to to a “Fosters oil can” in bulk/diameter, all units w/o batteries feel about the same weight, didn’t weigh them.
The Milwaukee has an extra safety step, you have a low profile almost flush switch that has to be held down with a thumbnail or or finger with decent pressure for about 2 seconds to piwer on the unit, this is also the selector for single or sequential firing, the Ryobis do have to be engaged with the surface to be fastened to fire, all three units have a thumbwheel for controlling depth max fastener length as follows 18ga crown stapler 3/8″ ~ 1.5″, 18 gauge finish nailer 1/2″ ~ 2″ and 15ga angled finish nailer 1.25″ ~ 2.5″.
Milwaukee recently released a M12 Crown stapler that drives 1/4″ ~ 9/16″ T-50 staples, unsure if it will drive T-50 brads as well, but it does have a depth adjustment and it seen to be marginally larger than a manual Arrow stapler.
I understand that Milwaukee has a cordless framing nailer being released this year. I would love to see a 23ga brad nailer in the M12 Fuel line
David Zeller
The Ryobi pin nailer’s safety mechanism is not to my liking overall, but has one benefit. First, you do not have to have contact with anything to fire, and I have several times accidentally fired before I intended. Once I was pointed at a finger holding the parts and and went through it – not pleasant, and once almost through a finger nail. Note I am using this for small hobby work.
The plus to this is that you can fire without putting a lot of pressure on objects that are carefully aligned.
It takes mental adjustment when moving between their regular and pin mailers.
David
Julian
Yes, I’ve picked up a pin nailer wrong and accidentally fired a pin or two across the room. That’s why I’m intrigued by Makita’s use of a nose safety…
ktash
I’ve used the Ryobi pin nailer some since getting it in December. I always use this and the Ryobi brad nailer with the small batteries. I’m using it in the shop to make jigs and some cabinets. I was not thrilled at first that there was no depth adjustment, but it hasn’t been a problem. I’ve never ended up with the pins sticking up, which can be a disaster in some cases. I’d rather have them overdrive than underdrive, but haven’t noticed that it overdrives. Looking back I should have also considered Makita, since that and Ryobi are my two main battery platforms. But I’ve had good luck with both the pin and brad nailers, no complaints.
I’m assuming occasional cleaning and using WD 40 on the firing mechanism will be important with the pin nailer like it is with the brad nailer if it stops firing.
Roger
I have an issue with Ryobi version. Can this be fired, open air, horizontally at a paper target 5 ft away or less? And will the pin go through the paper?
Stuart
Yes, and no.
The same should be true about the Hitachi.
I propped up an REI paper bag. Fired the nailer. It didn’t penetrate, but it did ricochet because I heard the pin nails drop on the floor behind me somewhere.
The Makita shouldn’t, as it has the nose sensor.
I might do some more testing next week; firing 2 nails at an upright paper bag is the most I could do right away.
MT_Noob
Stuart, did you ever have a chance to update your testing results or create a follow up post? (I couldn’t find one on the site)
I am considering buying the Makita, but I see conflicting amazon reviews about reliability and or the ability to drive longer nails in hardwood. I would trust your opinion a million times more than the amazon comments.
I have the makita platform for many other tools, and I’d like to stick with it, but some of the comments and reviews at other places are making me wonder if I should go with the nailer or not.