WOO! The freight company delivered a Milwaukee mobile tool workbench at around 5:30pm today. The packaging was torn up, and the mobile workbench wasn’t attached to its pallet.
Oh, and the tool cabinet was already on its back. Somehow it was actually vertical – on its side, and the driver plopped it down onto its back on the pallet. I shuddered as it bounced a little. That can’t be how these are supposed to be shipped, no wonder the packaging was in shambles.
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With the cabinet on its back, it was a challenge to retrieve the keys, and an even greater challenge to pull out the drawer with the box of casters and cabinet hardware.
But, once I got the casters out, they were easy to attach.
And then came the big moment – how the heck do I raise this thing onto its wheels?
I don’t have a hoist, and I don’t know when an able-bodied buddy or family member could come by to lend some muscle. It’s not a good idea to raise or lift a tool cabinet by oneself, even one that’s considerably smaller than this one.
This cabinet weighs in at around 402 pounds. Yikes!
My left shoulder was already aching from a bad lifting strain earlier, so I needed to take it easy.
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In addition to the size of the cabinet – 5 feet – and the hefty weight, the rear pegboard panel wasn’t secure, and so the cabinet slid along it. Plus it was hard to get a good grip around the top.
Keep in mind that you don’t have to raise the cabinet all the way, you just have to get it up to around 45° and then let gravity do the rest.
Somehow, I was able to get this thing on its wheels. Yes!
I locked the bottom (pivoting side) casters and brought out some 4-foot long 2x4s for leverage. I raised one end of the pallet, tilting it and the workbench top upwards. I took a gamble that this would work, and it paid off.
Getting the whole shebang to tilt to around 15° was pretty easy. Getting it raised to a 45° angle was not. But somehow I got it done, and without much strain or fatigue. It slid down the tilted pallet a few times, but by sliding the cabinet back up the pallet, a few inches on each side at a time I was able to raise its position a little more.
I rested the 2x4s on cardboard boxes filled with other boxes for recycling. Then I jammed a long narrow box-filled box under the center of the pallet. Some more heaving with the 2x4s, and the mobile workbench was on its back wheels. From there, I was able to gently lower the cabinet to its proper position.
I certainly don’t recommend this method to anyone. It’s usually going to be better to grab a friend and use teamwork and combined strength to raise a mobile tool cabinet or heavy workbench like this.
Raising a tool cabinet even half this size is risky to do solo. I worked carefully and deliberately, and it worked out well.
But here’s what I’m wondering.
If YOU were faced with raising a large and heavy tool cabinet from its back to its wheels, how would you do it?
I don’t even know what I would have done if I had to raise this from its base to its back, if it had shipped in the proper position.
If I hadn’t had my 2×4 levers nearby to use, and filled cardboard boxes to help bear the weight of the 2x4s at intermediate angles so I could rest my arms and body, I never would have been able to raise it myself.
Stops for the back casters might have prevented sliding and made the process easier. The sliding of the cabinet, down the tilted pallet, really slowed me down at times, and it’s the correction of this, by sliding the cabinet back up, that really tested my strength.
These user manuals tell you to put a cabinet on its back, or raise it to its wheels, but they never discuss how.
I’m thinking that 3 of me might have been able to raise the workbench without any type of leverage aids. Maybe 4 of me. Honestly, I don’t think just 1 helper would have been enough.
The Milwaukee unit came with its own mini double-ended wrench, in case buyers don’t have their own, and so I doubt that they assume users will have specialty equipment. And actually, the manual does say something how this workbench isn’t really meant to be lifted.
Matthew T.
I got mine a weekish ago. The way I raised it was to position it so that the wheels were facing a wall, then tip it so that it was facing the wall. I use the wall as a brace so it wouldn’t roll. I should also mention that I locked the wheels, but that didn’t help much in my garage (smooth concrete). This setup worked for me as a 150 lb dude.
Mike aka Fazzman
If you can put a chain fall on a rafter and strap that thing up and go. Otherwise its a multi person job. Dont hurt your back its not worth it.
BikerDad
Rafters often aren’t exposed….
Nate818
Pry bars. Blocks of wood. Old carpet to not scratch it. A few friends. If no friends just go slow
fred
I still remember (back in the 70’s) the fellows who delivered my Unisaw with CI sliding table attached – getting it off the truck – moved around to my back yard, through a set of Bilco doors and down a set of concrete steps to my basement shop. Block and tackle, straps and shackles and a big tree as an anchor was the answer. A big tip was the follow-up.
Not for lifting – but for lowering a machine onto its anchor studs – I learned an old trick – involving blocks of ice the same height as the rigger’s dollies. The ice is placed on the machine pad – the dolly/machine is rolled up – the machine is slid off onto the ice – with some sliding around to align the studs as the ice melts (helped along by the weight of the machine). Used this trick – when a piece of machinery and its pedestal were out of reach of the travelling crane and too heavy for our forklift.
Jason
I have heard a few people having issues with the way the Milwaukee toolbox was shipping. Freight companies are just beating the heck out of them. I would take my chances with HD stock in store and having them ship it.
rumpole
my physics expert, one Herr Dr. professor Rube Goldberg has suggested the use of 8′ long 2×4’s tucked into the black handles on the sides of the toolbox at obtuse (or maybe abstruse) angles. then you suspend cement bags (plastic 5 gallon buckets filled with gravel will also do) from the ends of the 2×4’s until you get a counterbalance. next place an old futon cushion at the presumed landing point of the toolbox wheels. a gentle pull on the cement bags or a push on the back of the toolbox and it should right itself. Mr. Goldberg was unclear as to the methodology employed for the removal of the futon.
His assistant, one Mr. Archimedes, was noted to say “give me lever long enough and i can move a volvo.” i think that’s how it went.
ry
fred
So maybe some heavy duty rope or lifting straps securing a heavy tunneling bar – our better yet piece if structural steel to the front (facing skyward part) of the box ) and using it as a lever to tilt the box upright ?
Anton
I was thinking about literally using a volvo. If the casters are secure and a strap wrapped in the right place, 400lbs would be no match for any car.
HF also sells come alongs and hand winches for cheap if you can secure them to something.
fred
Luckily being an old guy – my Rube Goldberg schemes are mostly things of the past – as I am now wise enough to ask for help and if needed – I can afford to pay others to do the heavy lifting. When I was “strong like Bull” and more sanguine about my invincibility, I was always sobered a bit by the thought that some of my schemes for accomplishing difficult (two or 4 -man) tasks by myself might result in my getting one of those Darwin Awards. More often than not – it was actually my wife asking: “are you crazy or what?” – and – “why don’t you wait until you have some help?”
Norbert
If there is a handle on each end, – and you have the room – it’s easy with 3 each 2X4s (if you don’t have a helper you’ll need 4 each 8 ft 2X4s). 1 each 8 ft 2X4 through the handle at each end, from the top, at an angle. 1 each 8 ft 2X4 horizontally across the front of the box extending past the ends of the box and under the “through handle” 2X4s. Lift the “through handle” 2X4s. That should provide enough leverage to lift it. If it’s being done with only 1 person, use a 4th 2X4 across the top of the “through handle” 2X4s to make a full width handle to apply lifting pressure to the “through handle” 2X4s.
If you have a high-lift jack, feel free to use it on the top cross “full width handle” 2X4. Or, a shorter lift jack and just keep adding blocking or jack stands. As the box gets closer to 45 degrees the weight that will have to be lifted to cross 45 will decline.
Matthew T.
Mine was shiped from HD, the box itself was fine, but the palet it was put on literally fell apart as it was being moved into my garage.
Don
I cant imagine that letting gravity do the work after 45 degrees was good for the casters as 400 lbs landed on them so I probably would have waited for help. If I really wanted to do it I would have checked to see if the drawers were removeable to reduce the weight. Then I would get a beer and wait for my sons to get home and we would finish the job.
Stuart
I’m sure the casters can handle it. There are 6 total, and they’re beefy. Remember, this thing is designed to be loaded up with tools, and I’m sure the top can handle some weight too.
I was more worried about the fasteners holding the casters to the frame.
kraton
Done this to raise 20′ hunting stands , same principle can be applied here
WE use two atvs with winches , one pulls while the other extends , once tipping
point is achieved the extender winch slowly plays out to achieve soft landing .
This case ,one come along used to extend out after you lift box to tipping point , farm jack should get you to the tipping point
Eric
Only being 400lbs. I would try to remove the drawers and top first. Then I would just lock the wheels, try to find something to place in front of it to prevent it from sliding, then just lift it up. Since you are only tilting it 90 degrees, much of the weight will remain on the ground. I have lifted many heavy objects myself like this and only weight about 175lbs.
Another method I have done that may not work on such a wide piece, is using a heavy duty hand truck. Lift it like normal from the side, then slowing lay the handle all the way back til it hits the floor. Then all you have to do is slide the object off the flat laying hand truck.
But if I was worried I couldn’t do it alone, I would just tie it with a chain or strap to the loader bucket on my tractor and have it do the work.
JoeM
I’d use a metal sheet, and a Motorcycle Jack. The kind that can lift 1500 pounds or more. Just, slide the metal sheet under the edge, wedge the jack under the metal sheet, and raise the jack. As the end comes up, and the sheet loses grip, push the jack under the unit, and take a break. Then raise it to about maximum extension, which should be around 11″, and then you could probably pull it to vertical from there.
Or, that’s how I’D do it.
firefly
Personally I would have used a gantry crane or scaffold, along with a hoist.
Greg
Exactly, It’s situations like these that have made me seriously consider getting a portable gantry crane.
Iron-Iceberg
Same way you pick up a motorcycle.
Even a little girl can do it.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=84YfDGKA4Og
Stuart
But if you slip or are unsuccessful and it lowers itself back down quickly, your fingers would get crushed or cut.
You can’t dealt rock this up the same way as that bike.
RC WARD
Really dude?
Mik
Go old school, jack and crib, jack and crib….
Tighe Lory
400 lbs and you can’t tip it up? Most motorcycles weigh more than that, You aren’t dead-lifting it, sit shouldn’t be that hard.
Yadda
Ratcheting load straps can help with this task. It takes a lot longer, but you can generally rig them to help with lifting. In the case of a 400 lb. tool box you would want 4 or more.
RC WARD
Me, I wouldn’t even try it without someone to help out. Although I have done things like that before. I would be worried that it would go from upright to slamming down on the front side before I could stop it. Anyway it turned out good for you and that is the important thing. Nice job. #TIACREW
firestorm
If one side of the tool box is on the ground, you are only lifting half the weight or 2:1 or 200 lbs, via mechanical advantage – just like a wheelbarrow works.
Of course inertia works in the other direction as it works it’s way back down to earth, so the weight actually goes up based on the 200 lbs. mass and the speed at which you let it drop back to earth.
Mr. X
Hi-Lift Jack. Also known as “Widowmaker” jack so be careful. These jacks are incredibly versatile and can be used as a come-a-long, jack, or spreader. Physics, mechanical advantage, and common sense are powerful allies.
Chris
PACOBELL
Don’t know if this was possible but I would have solved it as a statics problem:
1. Removed all the drawers and any other heavy or awkward parts. This could cut the weight by at least 100 pounds.
2. Then before putting on the casters I would have tipped the chest over upright. But onto the styrafoam / cardboard / wood as a cushion/temporary jack. Doing it this way means that the ground will always support half of the remaining weight, about 150pounds. Meaning you only have to handle half the weight.
3. Then with the cabinet raised and properly oriented, I would bolt the casters on.
4. Remove the material underneath a corner or half at a time. Again by only lifting part of the cabinet at a time you don’t have to throw out your back.
Now the negative of this approach would be that it is a little more difficult to put the casters on because you’ll be doing it by feel and probably be laying on the ground to see what you are doing.
But the positive is you have a back still. Didn’t need any special lift equipment hopefully not damaged the chest.
fede
I configure servers often and some times they come off the pallet or with a broken pallet so you have to figure out how to lift it or get it off the pallet and like you I have used 2×4 and lots off foam to try to prevent the impact when getting it back on its casters and at times I had to get the help of some companies workers with the big boys 42U 50k or plus. I can’t take a chance even when this come in special pallets that include ramps is better to be safe than sorry
Pete
I would take the drawers out to reduce weight. Then i would slide the chest 4-8″ in off the pallet and find the balance point then flip it up! Or if it was still heavy, add weight to the part thats sitting off the pallet to assist.
Nick
Along the lines of rumpole’s idea. I’d back my car or truck up to the box a few feet away, with the box bottom facing the vehicle. I’d flip the hitch ball so it was upside-down. I’d slide some 4′ long or so 2×4’s through the side handles and secure it from sliding out with small blocks, leaving the excess length pointed vertically to act as a lever. Tie rope, possible through an eyelet on the end of each 2×4 so you can pull both arms downward and towards truck from a rope wrapped around the hitch. Precede that with locking the casters, or if you don’t trust them find or make something to keep the cabinet from sliding toward your car instead on lifting on an axis. Couple sturdy rubber trash cans might do, hard to say. Could also use ratcheting straps in succession if pulling a rope by hand isn’t enough.