My Makita XGT cordless track saw has a warped and crooked bottom plate, the part that rides along a guide rail.
A few years ago, Home Depot sent me a Makita 18V X2 cordless track saw test sample, and I was quite pleased with it. Over time, I used it more often than my Festool track saw, and at one point my Festool mostly sat around gathering dust.
The biggest negative about the Makita 36V cordless track saw was that it required 2x 18V batteries. Having to charge and maintain two batteries was a bit of a hassle.
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I wanted to replace the Makita 18V X2 cordless track saw with a personally-owned sample, rather than continuing to work with the Home Depot review sample. But, I didn’t like the idea of buying into Makita’s 18V line.
In my opinion, Makita’s 18V cordless power tool line is at the end of its life, and the XGT line made much more sense to buy into. I also wanted a single-battery tool.
So, I bought a Makita XGT 40V Max cordless track saw in mid-December 2021. At the time, the kit was $580 before a 10% discount. Now, the same Makita GPS01M1J track saw kit is priced at $669.
Plus, I really liked the idea of the XGT saw only needing to be powered by one battery.
I haven’t used the XGT track saw very heavily since then, as my project needs change from time to time.
A few months ago, I came across an online post where someone was complaining about their XGT track saw not having a flat bottom plate.
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Then, I saw another complaint about wobble.
I pulled out my 18V X2 sample recently, as I’m preparing to donate it to a new user, and had a straightedge near by.
I wonder… is my XGT saw straight or wobbly? I tested both saws.
The XGT saw plate is not flat.
Here’s a closeup. The bottom plate of the Makita XGT cordless track saw is definitely warped.
The saw is not perfect in the perpendicular direction, either. It’s not as bad, but it should be flat.
Here’s the 18V X2 saw, with its perfectly flat plate.
Wow, that’s a huge difference!
Both Makita track saws have distinct reference surfaces, in between which there are slightly recessed surfaces that aren’t supposed to make contact with the guide rail.
This makes sense, as you don’t want a lot of friction when guiding the track saw on its track. Reducing the contacting surface area is a good way to do this.
Each saw has an adjustment wheel that tightens down any twisting wobble. There isn’t any adjustment for having a warped and wobbly bottom plate.
The 18V X2 track saw bottom plate is also fairly straight in the perpendicular direction as well.
I checked it in various spots, and you can see in the earlier images where there’s wear and where there isn’t.
This could explain things.
Some of my earlier tests with the Makita XGT track saw didn’t involve the guide rail, and I saw more burn marks than I expected.
I’m now thinking that the saw was rocking when cutting, leading the saw blade to rub and leave burn marks.
I stopped using the saw as I would other circular saws; for the most part, I’ve been sticking to only using it with a guide rail.
I still see some burn marks when using a guide rail.
What does this mean?
Honestly, I’m not sure. That the saw plate is warped could explain why the XGT saw doesn’t cut as well as the 18V X2 model did, with or without a guide rail.
With the guide rail, its freedom of motion is constrained a little more, where it won’t rock as much, especially with the lateral adjustment wheel fine-tuned.
Frankly, I don’t think it’s acceptable for a tool that presently sells for $459 by itself (tool-only).
I saw others’ complaints about the XGT track saw having a wobbly bottom plate, but it doesn’t seem to be a very widespread issue. Or, maybe it is a big issue that has largely gone unnoticed.
The 18V X2 saw has a perfect bottom plate, after all these years. The much newer and lightly used – and never abused – XGT saw is not flat, and was likely in the same state out of the factory.
The designs are nearly identical, and both saws were made in China; it doesn’t look like the design or country of origin changed.
It’s puzzling.
Is this a problem? Yes.
I only bought and tested one copy of the saw, and I didn’t think to check the flatness of the bottom shoe until now. If I discovered this issue after I first bought it, I would have sent it back for a replacement.
I’m stuck with it now, and I’m now wondering how much of a problem the deflection is going to be.
I needed to cut a countertop down to size to make my metal lathe stand. A little deflection there didn’t make a measurable difference.
Adjusting the guide rail slot tension doesn’t fix the problem, but maybe it has helped a little bit.
Random manufacturing defects happen. There’s no indication that it resulted from a cost-cutting measure or anything like that.
There’s no one at Makita that can reassure me that this was a random defect. I’m hoping it’s a random defect. Either way, I’ve got a very expensive track saw that is disappointedly flawed.
The base plate is warped in both directions, but is least warped in the more impactful direction. Right?
As I write this, I’m increasingly convinced that maybe the warped plate is responsible for more of the burnt cuts.
I had always convinced myself that it was a skill issue, or a wood flatness issue, despite rarely burning any cuts with my Festool track saw or the 18V X2 sample I’ve worked with.
But if the Makita XGT track saw was rocking back and forth and side to side – that rubbing could definitely have left burn marks in my cuts. right? The self-doubt makes me feel worse about the situation.
Maybe I could send it in for repairs, but I generally don’t like doing that unless something is broken to the point of being non-functional.
I have heard some good things about Makita USA’s parts department, but this doesn’t seem like the average user-replaceable part.
I’ll try to do some testing to see how severe the problem really is, and if I can potentially mitigate it.
On one hand, I’m trying to be understanding and forgivable. On the other hand, I’m frustrated and disappointed, and even more so now that I’m re-analyzing all of the “how did that happen?” moments I’ve had with this saw, where I placed blame on myself or the wood for imperfect cuts or results. I blamed everything except for the tool.
I’ve been telling myself not to overreact, as too often I see tool users making big deals out of minor design compromises or bad-luck defects.
Maybe I should have caught the issue sooner by taking a straight edge to the XGT saw plate when it first arrived, but I didn’t.
Self-doubt leads me to wonder if it’s a problem, or am I expecting too much from the saw? I then remind myself that I’ve had trouble-free experiences with other track saws, going back to 2011.
So… yeah. My Makita XGT cordless track saw has a warped and wobbly bottom plate, and I’m now second-guessing every burn mark and imperfect cut I’ve experienced with it.
I tried to do a quick test. One cut suggested that it’s not a big deal, and the other suggested that I won’t ever be able to trust this saw for precision cuts.
If anyone here buys a Makita XGT cordless track saw – or the 18V LXT in case they now use a common part – check the bottom plate with a straight edge while you’re in the return period.
It looks like I might be in for a chat with Makita USA’s warranty department. But, that also depends on whether this is a random defect. What if all of the XGT track saws are like this?
Situation sucks.
How does this plate issue even happen?!
Eliot Truelove
Why can’t you send it in for warranty? Is it already over 3 years old?
Stuart
I’m going to have to do that.
This was like discovering a tape measure has always been off.
Lance
Sorry Stuart, but implying you’re “stuck with it” is very disingenuous. You’re not, unless Makita denies your warranty claim, which sound like is not the case.
FWIW, I have the 18×2 version and it’s been great. I ABSOLUTELY WILL NOT buy into the 40v line if it’s discontinued. ARE YOU LISTENING MAKITA???
Your 40v tools are too expensive for what they are. End of discussion. In theory they should be cheaper to make than 18v tools (same # battery cells, thinner wires, less copper), minus economies of scale, yet they carry a HEFTY premium above the equivalent 18v models. No bueno for me, especially if you leave me stranded with big $$$ in 18v tools.
40v was a mistake. You should have just kept improving your 18v line.
Stuart
As mentioned, I’ve had enough bad experiences and heard enough stories that I am extremely averse to warranty claims unless something is flat out broken.
A lot of companies try to weasel out of repairs or replacements.
I submitted a warranty inquiry earlier today, but haven’t heard back yet. We’ll see what happens.
Rog
Please post your follow-up experience, we’d all love to hear how that goes
Eliot Truelove
Did you get a postage label for your order? I sent my dust blower in for a warranty claim because of something I did wrong and I submitted it and got it back a month later, almost to the day. It was relatively painless, despite the wait.
Rich
I have a Mikita compound miter saw and it’s wobbly and my work has suffered because of it I’ll never buy another saw from Mikita.
Bill Smith
Have a look at the link below. It’s one saw on YouTube, I had same problem, did this and all good. I have a festool track saw, and not the Makita one, so not sure if u can adjust it the same. Best of luck.
https://youtu.be/K06-Wy-jWoY?si=mwBIO1t3NKKlLx2S
Ed in Texas
What’s the status on your warranty claim with Makita and warp plate on your track saw?
Stuart
They responded fairly quickly, bit I started searching for ways to fix the plate myself.
I’ve been back to using other brands’ track saws in the meantime and will get the Makita sorted out one way or another when my schedule lightens up or before the warranty period ends. I’ve heard good things about Makita parts support, but nothing about their warranty process. But if I can fix it myself, that’d be less hassle.
Davious
Not sure why anyone would select a Makita over Festool for a track saw other than price as I have used every brand as of now, Festool still in the lead. Granted, I loathe their sizes, their price control (no discounts) and last but not least the cost of ownership, however, their products are all 1st rate. I was probably one of the 1st users of Makita tools in our area if not the first and have always liked their products. I’m a tool collector and use them all for the past 50+ years in home building / renovations, etc. and must admit it generally comes down to 1 or 2 differences that will sway a person one way or the other. The new Festool track saw with scoring blade is a game change once again.
Mike
I’ve been pleased with my Makita corded version but have never tried the Festool. I am grateful to Festool for inventing the tool, but curious why you feel it’s superior? Obviously manufacturing flaws are an annoying reality, and all these manufacturers cut costs at the expense of durability, and Makita and Festool are neither the worst offenders nor exceptions.
I don’t know what the scoring blade you reference is, the Makita has a detent for a light scoring pass, but I get excellent cut quality on both sides without using it.
What are the features you think Festool wins on vs competition?
Jammity
I’m only familiar with the Makita X2 and XGT track saws. But the Festool depth setting is more accurate and less fiddly. The Festool has an off-side splinter stop (which is huge if you’re doing sheet goods. It also has the best blade locking system in the business with an onboard wrench, which I think the X2 skips. The Airstream Bluetooth is miles ahead of AWS for activating dust collectors and it comes with the tool. Both Makita and Festool saws will fit a Festool dust collector hose, as opposed to needing an adaptor like the Makita does (did?)
It’s all little stuff but it adds up.
John E
Try the Mafell.
Stuart
I tried the Mafell cross-cutting saw a few years ago – https://14cyiuhvcgv.com/i-have-no-idea-how-to-review-this-1000-mafell-circular-saw/%3C/a%3E .
It produced the cleanest and most perfect crosscuts I have ever experienced. I just couldn’t figure out where I would use that saw over others, and returned it to the lender.
I toyed with the idea of getting a Mafell track saw, corded or cordless, but I’m turned off by the scarce USA availability. I believe that Mafell is basically down to just one dealer/distributor for their tools and accessories now.
John E
Sorry, my reply was for Davious
John E
In Europe there is a three year warranty on Mafell. Here it’s one year but the guys at Timberwolf are really helpful and knowledgeable so I wouldn’t be too concerned. I’ve had 7 or 8 Mafell tool going back over 15 years and not a single problem so far.
If it’s a hobby, I totally get the reaction someone gets when they see the price but if you make a living with saws then it’s a no-brainer. I’ve zero regrets on any Mafell I’ve bought but I use the jigsaw much less than I thought I would.
Not a fanboy by any means (I have a rainbow collection of tools) but that KSS 300 never ceases to amaze me.
I wanted the track saw originally but the guy (David, I think) at Timberwolf suggested the 300 and now it does 90 % of all my wood cutting. Granted, I’m not shop based so mobility and speed are important to me but It’s the last power tool I’d ever sell.
Adam
I live in England, I have the mafell mt55 corded track saw, it’s very good I bought it over the Festool ts55 because it has more power, I know Festool has the ts60 now which is very good also the mafell tracks are very good, their longer then the Festool and connect easier.
Dave Winer
Dont buy this saw!I have a 3yr old corded makita track saw,started cutting bad 2cnd yr .warranty only good 1 yr. Baseplate warped in service waiting 6 months for new plate,makita claims none in usa,still waiting,piece of crap
Michael F
Unacceptable on such an expensive saw. I’d contact Makita for a warranty replacement.
Michael F
I was already on the fence between the Makita XGT and Festool TSC-55 saws, but this might push me over the line to spend the extra $200 on the Festool even though I already have both the LXT and XGT systems.
Stuart
If you buy the Makita, check its out of the box flatness, as I should have done.
While the Makita does away with the 2-battery annoyance of their 18V X2 model, I’m not convinced the XGT is any bit more powerful than the 18V.
If I had to do things over today, I might have went with the latest Festool. Early adopters reported some concerns about their cordless table saw, but I’ve never experienced or heard many complaints about their track saws. The only think I disliked about my older corded model is the metric scale, but I got over it, and I’ve seen replacement scales if it ever bothers me enough.
Tim+E.
I wouldn’t expect it to be more powerful really though, right? 18v 6Ah batteries are the same as 40V 3Ah batteries, in terms of number of cells and cell capacity. If each cell is rated to deliver 35A, say 45A if it’s a 21700 cell in the 40V, the 18Vx2 can deliver 2500W. The single 40V can only deliver 1620W. You’ll gain some efficiency to be sure running 40V instead of 20V class motors and associated wiring and all, but not 35% more efficient. The only place they become equivalent/better for XGT is when you step up to the giant 20-cell batteries like the 8Ah XGT, which then the efficiency gains and better cell gains actually outpace the 2 18V batteries. But also have to have motors and circuitry that can leverage that, and not destroy smaller batteries if they’re used. The 18V x2 does cook the smaller 2Ah packs on the high draw tools, so I’ll credit that as not being a problem on XGT.
But the x2 is my rub with XGT. Why are they replacing all these 18V x2 tools with 40V x1? They are replicating 18V x1 tools to the XGT platform in some instances, but a lot of the 18V x2 tools they’re stripping down to 40V x1, and that means a power and/or runtime compromise unless you have the giant XGT batteries. Is Makita trying to “learn their lesson” and not make too much XGT x2 in case some other battery tech comes along and makes XGT now not work in an x2 form factor? Do they think consumers see “oh 1 40V battery, that’s equal to 2 20V batteries so must be the same”? Is it cost, they can just drop in a 40V x1 and it’s likely the same circuitry and motors as the existing tool then and they don’t have to re-engineer to support 80V if it were 40V x2? I had high hopes for XGT, having used the LXT outdoor equipment for years and being very happy with it. Make an XGT x2 blower, weight would be roughly the same as the LXT x2, they could dial up the power a good bit though to take advantage of the higher delivery capability of the batteries and have a class leading blower again, but they didn’t. Nor on anything else. It’s a shame, but having used a couple of the outdoor tools side by side, I’m keeping the 18V x2 because they are hands down better than any of the XGT ones I’ve tried.
Mike
I’d say the rational for XGT vs sticking with LXTx2 is probably some mix of 21700, single pack simplicity/convenience and 80v capability.
I agree the XGT will be more efficient than the LXTx2 because of the simpler wiring and cell/pack balancing, but not a huge amount. The motors are obviously running at the same voltage.
XGTx1 and LXTx2 may or may not have the same power output, it all depends on the engineering spec. Obviously, they could put a less powerful motor in the XGT for weight savings, but probably wouldn’t. It would make lots of sense to put the exact same motor in the 2 tools, and maybe that’s what they did with the track saw.
Are 21700 and single pack convenience enough to “upgrade” any tools? Probably not. If you’re already in LXT will you start to transition? If you have no Makitas, is any XGT up charge worth it? Makita hopes so.
This gets to your larger question of why do XGT at all vs LXTx2? They could have brought out LXT 2.0 21700 batteries with associated confusion and customer rage over legacy first gen narrow 18650 LXTx2 spacing incompatibility.
Why do LXTx2 at all, instead of sticking to 18v, when Milwaukee is so dominant in US, while defiantly staying low voltage.
There are very real advantages to higher voltages (power vs battery life) as well as low voltage (light weight 5 cell packs.
I think 18v and 36v are the sweet spot for the vast majority of current cylindrical cell pack powered handheld tools. Dewalt’s Flex volt 60v circ saw apparently wins the power crown, but is significantly heavier than the latest competition. For some it’s worth it, but now that 40v saws are lighter and more powerful than corded worm drive saws, how much power do you need? 40v batteries are also practical on smaller tools like drills, impact, multi tools, etc. Metabo HPT’s multi volt battery/charger and AC converter system is superior.
Mike
Back to XGT vs LXTx2 OPE power levels, Tools and Stuff will disagree that they are the same:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=r12m8VpgSMA&feature=youtu.be
Basically the XGT power head is heavier and more powerful with its 1000 watt motor than the LXTx2 with its 600 watt motor. On the other hand, I think the hand held hedge trimmers were brought out in XGT first and are probably quite similar.
The mature Makita power head and attachment lineup that retains the interface from their gas 2650 is an area I think they’re still quite competitive, as well as the dedicated pole saw.
OPE (and grinders, rotary/jackhammers, etc.) is where the higher voltages make the most sense, but one size battery and even voltage probably don’t fit all.
Dewalt’s large spread from 18v – 60v should have an advantage here. I can’t see putting a large 60V battery on an impact driver, but could get swapping small and large batteries on string trimmers or hedge trimmers. Unfortunately (or fortunately) their OPE attachments seem to be more homeowner price and durability/performance.
Milwaukee’s new dedicated pole saw and expanded OPE hand tool lineup seems intriguing, but you are getting into coughing up big bucks so your batteries last a bit longer while you cook them on low voltage, high draw tools. This just depends on the design spec (motor amp draw) again, though. The 18650 limited 18v LXT power head works fine for light string trimming and is passable with the hedge trimmer or even pole saw attachments.
Blowers are a different category. These little 18v blowers are so handy to stash in the truck, etc. and will do most small jobs, just not quickly. For lawn care company fall leaf cleanup, forget battery power. I know CA mandates it, but they don’t have Eastern hardwoods. Note how nobody even makes 4 stroke backpack blowers any more, people just want max power in a backpack blower.
I do think they’ll get there, but it will be a backpack battery system like we are already seeing. Why on earth would these be 40v though? Mowers and blowers and really anything dealing with air (vacuums) could be 100 or even 200v. If you need power and run time moving air or heavy blades, etc., you need lots of cells, so just make it a dedicated high voltage system, so you’re not cooking batteries.
Handheld LXTx4=80v would be starting to get impractical vs the new XGTx2 brush cutters. Gas backpack engine flexible shaft brush cutters already exist, a battery version with motor on handle or backpack would be simpler.
Finally to your point about big batteries. I think Makita’s pricing is most egregious on these new batteries, but Milwaukee’s big batteries are high too.
If you don’t need a wide range of pro level OPE, i.e. you want a medium size blower and string trimmed for a small to medium size yard I would definitely go with EGO. The power and run times for the money is far superior. Just compare the prices (as a combo) and physical sizes of the batteries.
Alex
As both an XGT and LXT owner, I can absolutely assure you that the XGT is more powerful of the two. For visual reference, check out the YouTube channel, Tools & Stuff, as it showcases how the XGT always comes out on top. However, that’s not to say that the XGT’s higher performance is always better, as I still much prefer the finesse and smaller profile of LXT’s XDT16 impact driver over the XGT version.
Furthermore, Makita’s LXT performance is also limited by its smaller battery packs (6 amp being their largest) and lack of high output batteries (they only use 18650 cells on LXT)
Stuart
It depends on the tool.
Single battery tool vs single battery tool? Absolutely XGT is better. Makita regularly publishes performance gain claims, such as for their router.
Adam
The Festool is definitely a better saw, the quality is much better than makita, but the makita has one 40 volt battery which is good, and it all depends on what kind of work you will use it for, and what battery platform your on.
Mike
This example aside, specifically why do you think it’s higher quality and better overall? Have you used then both? I have not but am curious.
Leo B.
Stuart- “I’m “not” thinking that the saw was rocking when cutting…”
Maybe supposed to be “now”? Thanks!
Stuart
Sorry – yes. Thanks! *fixed*
MM
Good lord, that first photo you posted with the straight-edge….that’s not even close to being flat. And you can see the signs of warpage in the pattern of wear marks on the bottom of the saw as well, they’re concentrated near the center where the convex belly of the saw bends outwards towards the track.
Leo B.
Totally unacceptable. The whole point of the saw is a base plate that accurately references the guide rail. What’s the point of an unreliable track saw? Just use a circular saw at that point; only the dust collection would still be a plus to me.
Mike
I would contact Makita and see if they will at least send a plate out to you. Hopefully they would be embarrassed enough by an obvious manufacturing flaw to allow an out of warranty correction.
I wouldn’t think front to back would be as problematic, but the whole point of these saws is their precision allows a finished cut edge.
If they won’t warranty, and your livelihood doesn’t depend in this saw, I would think about correcting the problem yourself. If the warped plate is indeed the cause of the burn, you won’t ever be satisfied with the saw.
Many ways to tackle the problem:
Not sure how much a new plate costs, but now your overpriced saw becomes even more over priced.
Sanding or milling the middle area seems doable. I gather the plate is magnesium so it should go relatively easily. A small sanding block or a router milling jig could work, the middle doesn’t have to be flat if it’s meant to be recessed.
Do you ever use a filter bag with this saw? I have the corded version and it seems to clog easily with a sander bag attached. I would think the cordless feature would be most advantageous when not using a hose, just wondering if the internal fan, etc. is up to it?
Without commenting (much) on Makita’s non competitive pricing of their premium products, I have been hoping the introduction of these saws by every competitor would bring prices down in general. I get that they’re more complicated and niche, but the cost vs a regular saw is excessive. The cost of the track compatible non plunging saws is a straight rip off, and I think is costing them sales and overall profits.
I’ve never thought of using a track saw without the rail, what’s the use case and rationale here? It seems like the lack of line of sight to the blade, plunge feature and general weight and awkwardness vs a conventional circ saw would make it less handy?
Stuart
My first use was to cross-cut an 8/4 piece of oak. The saw bogged down – so much for the 40V motor – but the idea was to make a relatively clean and precise cut to break the 8-foot board down to a more usable size for further working.
It’s still a circular saw, just with plunge-cutting, better dust collection, and guide rail compatibility. I did the same with the 18V X2 version.
I have an MFT table, but it’s a hassle to set up for just one cut. An approximate cut of the oak didn’t seem to justify setting up a 55″ track either. I have a shorter Festool track but it needs a new cutting edge strip.
The plate is NOT user-serviceable; there’s way too much of a “high spot” to simply sand down.
Mike
Base obviously shouldn’t need to be user serviced straight from factory, but why don’t you think it could be flattened adequately? Are you worried it will remove too much material and weaken it?
Clamping saw in place and carefully getting at it with the nose of a belt sander could go pretty quick. Do a little cleanup with a small sanding pad on a multi tool… worth a shot if you’re essentially never going to use the saw as is or going to replace the base anyway.
Power sanders will chew through magnesium like it’s hard wood.
Hopefully Makita does the right thing, though, good luck.
Stuart
Yup. There’s no place to shim it either.
Jared
You can’t lap it with some sandpaper on one of your surface plates? Not that you should have to of course.
John E
Mike,
There’s now a track base assembly kit that Makita offer through parts suppliers that has the whole magnesium track base to convert your 18×2 or 40V 7 1/4″ circular saw into a track saw. You’ll lose the 56° bevel function but will give you a true track saw. If you got the circular saw with the free battery promotion it’s a cheap upgrade. I did mine the old fashioned way by ordering all the pieces but they’ve bundled everything.
Makita base assembly part # 136280-3
John E
Doesn’t work on the rear handle.
Mike
Interesting, thanks for tip.
Mike
The $100 base plate kit is basically the price of the awesome Metabo HPT rear or top handle circ saws and the non plunge Makita XGT saw itself is pretty steep at $250+. They are available on secondary market reasonably, but less so with out a recent battery promotion people are hacking up.
I know some people find the plunge feature annoying and want the track capabilities with a non plunge.
I’ve kind of gotten to the point where with the cost and delicacy (especially for long rails) I would only use a rail for fine finish. If pretty straight and slight tear out on one side is acceptable, a straight board clamped down as a straight edge to ride against with a circ saw w/plywood blade is fine, fast, cheap, durable and very portable.
Rough stuff just follow a chalk line.
I don’t know if using more than one saw per rail is practical as the rubber anti tear out strip will not line up exactly the same. If you’re lucky, you’re “rough” non plunge saw will be offset a little away from the rubber, preserving the best cut quality for your plunge.
John E
I concur with all that you said there.
I got the XGT top handle saw with three 40V 5AH batteries, case and charger for a little under $400. The track base assembly cost me under $90 with coupons. The track ready saw had no freebies and was $100 more. I already had several Makita tracks so could dedicate a couple to this saw. I use old school ELU industrial blades on this saw that are almost 1/8″ thick and they haven’t given me any splinter strip problems so far. I have a set of shim washers so I can tweak the cut line by the 1/000 inch increment but haven’t needed to. I like the thicker blades as the don’t deflect and give glue ready edges on 8/4 lumber
This was more of a fun project than a necessity for me. I’ve snapped miles of chalk lines over the years but as you get older the more you can do more efficiently the better. Part of my justification was to avoid spending another $2K on another Mafell. I’m still thinking about ditching it all though and getting the KSS 80 and be done with it.
Dan
Thanks for the tip. I’ve been considering ordering the parts individually to convert my saw. I’ve got the corded track saw and a couple years ago bought both the right blade 18×2 and the rear handle saw. The track saw sees track saw duties while the rear handle sees circular saw duties. I’m thinking the right blade saw can handle the in-betweens.
John E
Was considering getting a rear handle left blade Makita but there’s no track base for it. I’ve decided that from now on, and circular saw I buy will have a track base and any vacuum with have suction control.
Mike.
John, thanks for all the detailed responses.
Assuming the general hassle of buying, maintaining, storing and moving tracks is more than offset by the mindlessly easy, speedy precision of actually using the tracks…
Since you have both a track saw and a track compatible top handle, can you give insight on when you might use one vs the other?
Assuming both have adequate dust collection… more power, depth of cut and possibility for cheaper blades jump out.
How about the ergonomics of plunge vs non plunge? One advantage of the plunge is that you can just set the saw on the very edge of the track and make a very controlled start to cut. Is starting cut with top handle difficult when using a 55″ rail on 48″ sheet goods (and long rail to rip 96)?
Are you using top handle more for powering through 8/4, where width/length might not be an issue?
Are you doing a lot of cross cutting, and if so how do you like it vs miter saw or table saw sled? The advantage here is the size, portability and/or moving saw to work vs inverse? You use some kind of rail square to cross cut?
Thanks.
Mike
John,
Now I see your Mafell is not a plunge saw.
Hoping you or anyone else can comment on using track with plunge vs non plunge though.
John E
Makita base assembly part # 136280-3
John E
Mike,
I have the corded Mafell MT55. Bought it at the same time as the KSS300. Any material under 1 1/2″ and I invariably grab the 300. It’s half the size and half the weight and I’ll swear it cuts cleaner than arguably the best track saw out there. Blade choices are limited though and they cost quite a bit more than the 6 1/2″ blades.
As far as plunging goes, you can plunge with the KSS300 but you have to know your saw and be completely comfortable with it. It’s powerful enough to cut 2X material and 5/4 subfloor but not too powerful to throw you off a ladder, if you know what I mean. I’ve cut many an overhead soffit vent with it upside down. But I digress.
If you are mostly breaking down sheet goods a true plunge saw is a little safer and more shop friendly as dust collection is better, though the Mafell circular saws are nothing like box store circular saws and hold their own with dust management.
The main downside to the KSS 300 is the cost but as I’ve said before I’ve never regretted buying it. It’s the last saw I’d ever sell and if they made a blade left version I’d order one today.
Hope that answers some of you questions.
Mike
John, yes thanks for reply, I have never seen anything like that KSS300. I guess it has the track attached to the saw, for for cross cutting or small stuff.
I had some more specific questions that were removed or are awaiting moderation.
Basically, can you talk a bit about a track saw vs a top handle on a track?
Thanks in advance, if you have the time.
Mike
Sorry, finally saw video of KSS300 and understand it a bit better with roll up rail. Quite a concept.
Thanks for review and analysis.
John E
Mike,
You’re welcome.
Top handle saws on a rail cut just as easily as plunge saws. Select you blade appropriately and you’re good to go. You won’t get the same level of dust collection and you may not be able to bevel or follow the splinter strip but it’s nice to be able to measure once, cut once…every time.
The KSS 300 is a one of a kind saw. It won’t do everything and I wouldn’t recommend it as your only saw but I find it speeds up my workflow considerably without any sacrifice in quality. You can do everything it does with other saws (some better) but if like me you are involved in all aspects of home remodeling and work mostly alone it’s kinda a Swiss army knife of saws (better actually) and very portable. As a mini track saw it excels. About the only thing I haven’t tried to do with it yet is cut crown moulding.
As Stuart posted once before, it’s not for everyone, but I really like mine. Bought a second one (the cordless version) when Timberwolf had a unicorn sale five years ago. $999. It’s now close to $1500.
fred
@Mike
I hesitated a bit when I bought the cordless Mafell 91B302
when I looked at the cost of the blades. I thought $96 and change for a 120mm 40-tooth blade was a bit steep and worried that although I was gifting it to a nephew, he might find replacement blades too pricey. Last year when I purchased the saw – I could find few other candidate blades for it – beyond ones like the Dart (a brand I was not familiar with) STK1202028
OldDominionDIYer
Tragically I’m not surprised. Makita has been an empty chair for quite some time.
John E
If you get no luck with Makita warranty you can buy an OEM replacement base plate (312B64-7)
for $40~ and swap it out. You’ll have to transfer all the knobs and levers but it only takes about 30 minutes.
I’ve converted 3 or 4 Makita circular saws to track saws this way for about $100 each as you have to buy all the extra screws to go with the track base if it’s a regular circular saw. Everything else on the saws is identical. I’m referring to the regular 7 1/4″ saws, not the 6 1/2″ plunge saw.
I did this when the Circular saws (7 1/4″ top handle were $199 with four batteries and a double charger. It’s nice having a 7 1/4″ track saw you can abuse, especially so cheap.
John E
I’ve had two Dominos sent to me, both with bent fences but they got repaired by Festool within a week of purchase.
I think it was a problem with shipping and handling as they come poorly protected from Festool and bounce around inside the Systainer. Systainer was damaged by the Domino also. If you have a Domino, check your flip fence with a machinist square.
Saulac
This wonderful. I have thought about doing this but have not expected it to be simple. So I settled for the (Makita) 6.5 circular with the dual rip cut slots and the (plastic) Makita track adapter. The adapter never gave me the repeatability that I want. I may have all the little bits and pieces from the adapter to switch over to the base. Would you please share where you get the base and what saw model you use?
John E
Not sure this will work on the 6 1/2″ saw.
I don’t believe they make a track ready version of their 6 1/2″ saws but search their website. I know they make the little adapter plate but those have limited functionality.
The 7 1/4″ top handle Makitas and the 9 1/4″ are both available as “track compatible. I posted the part number for the 7 1/4″ track base assembly somewhere else here. It’ll convert your top handle saw into the track ready version for $100. Sell or keep the old base.
If they are still doing the four battery promo for $199 on the 7 1/4″ circular saw this is the way to get a cordless 7 1/4” track saw. Works on the 40V saw too but that 2 free batteries promo seems to have been a one-off.
John E
Google search the part # I can’t recommend one parts supplier over another.
Saulac
I looked into the tract compatible saws before, but did not get into because, if recall correctly, they are all 18×2 or higher…and I am a caveman using a few Makita 18v tool with Dewalt batteries and adapter…would any 18v Makita 7” 1/4 top handle work? Thanks
John E
I’m no expert on this. The 18×2 (LXT) and newer 40V (XGT) top handle 7 1/4″ (right side blade) Makita saws use the same motor housing and the track base assembly for the 40V will also fit the 2x18V saw. Don’t ask me to quote model numbers but Makita list which saws are track compatible on their website. You can buy the base assembly for the non track version but it’s hardly worth the trouble if you then have to buy tracks etc.
If you’re just a hobbyist you might consider making a plywood sled and save a lot of money.
Tom
Whoa I want to try that. I’ve got 2 36v circular saws
John E
Tracks are about $100 each 55″ section. Just to warn you before you open you wallet.
I only started to do this as sort of a reverse engineering project as I picked up a bunch of tracks from HD on clearance for $25 each. The the promo saw kit, then the track base came later. Gave one full setup to a family member.
FrankH Kalinski
I contacted my preferred provider for power tools and repairs, Marsh Power Tool In Livonia, Michigan – about this exact problem – service told me Makita will say it was dropped and deny warranty.
I use this saw a lot not only for long cuts on sheet goods but for breaking down sawn wood before machining. The dust collection works well – problem is my fault – turning on dust collector with hose attached pulled saw off the track on the ground.
Base plate is very delicate – I’ll be extra careful with the saw from now on.
Stuart
I never dropped it.
It couldn’t have been shipping damage, as the saw was packaged in a MacPac Systainer.
I haven’t taken the saw apart, but figure it was a bad casting or similar factory defect.
John E
Makita part # 312B64-7
$40
fred
There are not so many reviews of this saw on amazon or elsewhere online to be of statistical significance – but it sounds like Makita’s QC/QA of its Chinese manufacturing operations are inadequate to say the least. Shame on them! If this were something from Harbor Freight or a no-name brand on Amazon – I’d chalk it up – but Makita should know and perform better.
I gifted one to a nephew in February 2022 – and have not heard any negative feedback from him. But perhaps he is not as discerning – or is also having the issue but has not connected it to a warped baseplate. Meanwhile, the two cordless Mafell tracksaws (91B302 and 91B702) that I gifted in 2023 garner praise almost every time I talk to the recipients. I realize that a made in Germany Mafell at 2x and 3x the cost of the Chinese-made Makita – should be better – but a warped baseplate (as on your Makita) is unacceptable at any price or COO.
Josh Walters
Shoot I’ve been scoping out the XGT Track saw because a track saw would rapidly boost productivity on certain jobs and I need another 40v battery to pair with my 10 1/4 beam saw. Maybe I stop worrying about the battery and get that from something else and reexamine Milwaukee or Dewalts track Saws. I was hoping on a precision tool Makitas refined reputation would shine through. Sorry that happened to you Stuart.
Mike
If this is the only known issue, and hopefully not widespread, it would be easy to check upon delivery for flatness. Obviously any return is a hassle, and any manufacturing flaw breeds suspicion more may exist.
If you always plan on using dust collection, a corded saw seems like not a big compromise, as the hose is a much bigger annoyance, and the cord plugs into the dust collector and negates the need for bluetooth.
I have seen some videos of people using dust bags (no hose) with Festival saws, and it seems pretty convenient outdoors, etc. My Makita corded track saw seems to get plugged up regularly when I used a sander bag. If cordless AND hoseless is important, I would suggest finding out how the Milwaukee, Dewalt and any others compare to the Festool or others.
I may have asked about this here a couple times and would like to hear about readers’ experiences with bags on track saws.
Ken
Stuart: Is there any chance that this has something to do with the bevel lock? The Bosch track saw had a lot of complaints for the same issue (warped base plate) when in fact it was just an issue with the way that the bevel lock was secured at the factory. Here’s a video showing the issue:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5tg5thZs-A
It looks like the Makita XGT track saw has the same style of bevel lock. Worth a shot?
Stuart
I don’t think that’s it, but it’s worth looking at, thanks!
Ken
FWIW, I had some wobble with my own Bosch track saw after I incorrectly adjusted the bevel lock. In my case, I think I adjusted the bevel lock while holding the saw with my other hand by the handle (i.e., in the air, not on a work surface). So, I didn’t push down on the handle while on the workbench like shown in the video I posted above – I just didn’t adjust the bevel while it was sitting flat on a workbench. When I followed the instructions in the video I posted above, the base plate returned to perfectly flat.
Sam
This happened to me too just a couple months ago! The saw had a lot of movement on the guide rail and I noticed the warped bottom plate. I ended up selling it and getting a festool. Im a big makita guy but as far as tracksaws the ts60 seems a lot more solid.
Stuart
Thank you for chiming in, although it’s not what I hoped to hear; I was really hoping this was just bad luck.
Sam
Ya I had kind of a weird situation, I bought it in canada for the exchange rate, but didn’t realize that meant I had no warranty. And just like you the saw would cut fine, but after I noticed and verified the warp/rocking I just got paranoid about precision cuts.
I thought I might have warped it with the adjustment screws, but I guess it’s a more widespread problem.
Just spitballing but maybe Makita’s QC probably just checks cut accuracy or something and doesn’t check the flatness of the base plate.
It was my first tracksaw so until i got the festool I didn’t realize that it shouldn’t move at all when on the track
eddiesky
Oh Boy. Now I will have to check my Makita tracksaw bottom plate, although its the corded version.
Noah
Bummer. I have had good luck sending my makita tools in for repair under warranty to the local factory service center. They even replaced a dead battery that was out of warranty.
BMak
You never publish my comments so I’ll just say this like it was an email. Are you going to bitch about it or simply return it for a new unit without the issue. You seem to be hell bent on finding anything wrong you can with Makita products. My recommendation to you is quite buying their products and focus on something you can say something positive about.
Stuart
I don’t know what you’re talking about; your comment here was published automatically.
I checked your comment history via your email address, and you have published comments under 6 or 7 very different names in the past year or so, including this one. Looking at the moderation history, you used several additional names.
Using multiple names is a sure way to trigger the spam filter. Pick one name and stick with it.
I’m not “hell bent” on finding things wrong with Makita products. I’ve had an on and off rocky relationship with their USA marketing team for well over a decade. If I’m not bringing that up here, why are you?
I regularly post frankly about my experiences and opinions. If you’re looking for someone to be sycophantic towards tool brands, retailers, or fanboys, you’ve come to the wrong place.
Lyle
Wow. Obviously he allows you to comment otherwise we wouldn’t have seen this. Sounds like you have a bone to pick with Stuart and if so, why don’t you just handle it privately in e-mail?
I agree that it seems like he has had some issues with Makita, but he totally could get them to address them for him in or out of warranty I’m sure. I appreciate him mentioning the issues on his website because it raises awareness to the community and might help Makita realize that there is a problem or help people look out for these issues when they are making their purchasing decisions.
I also like that he doesn’t take advantage of his position as an influencer to solve the problems since that would most likely only help him but not the general community of users.
If you don’t like his posts then why do you keep coming to the website and try so hard to get your message heard? Just move on if you don’t like it. Don’t drag this community down with your negativity.
fred
I used to have some (with my partners) in buying tools for a few businesses. At one point (now many years ago) we had standardized on Makita 18V cordless tools for our remodeling business. That was because – early on in the move to Li-Ion batteries, Makita seemed to us to be leading the charge – offering more and better tools than many others. Feedback from our carpenters also had us sticking with Makita. But when I was moving toward selling my business interests and retiring – now about 15 years ago – Makita seemed to be losing ground and we were moving to Milwaukee. In the plumbing business – it seemed like a no-brainer as Milwaukee was introducing trade specific tools that appealed to our guys. I think that our carpenters were slower to switch – but I hear there are now more red tools in their trucks than teal ones.
Makita sales figures for North America seem to mirror what I’ve observed through the narrow lens of the small businesses that I once had an interest. Over the years, I’ve seen Stuart’s comments about Makita more as a recognition of these downward trends – and perhaps use his Toolguyd platform as a way to help Makita correct their course. From an outsider looking in – some tool companies seem to act in enigmatic ways that seem to be contrary to what an outside observer might think of as sound business practice. Stuart seems to be trying to report on what Makita (perhaps others like Bosch too) are thinking about moving their lines forward. But that can be a difficult task.
Stuart
Observationally speaking, Makita absolutely seems to be losing ground.
Consider Home Depot’s Spring Black Friday sale.
HD Spring Black Friday Tool Deals
HD Spring Black Friday Outdoor Tool Deals
Where’s Makita represented there?
Where are Makita’s “Rule the Outdoors” cordless outdoor power tool and equipment promos that are supposed to be going on this time of year?
Cordless OPE has always been a strength and promotional focus for Makita.
I can understand shifting to mail-in rebates to reduce promotional inventory. I can understand pulling back on cordless power tool promotions where it can cost a lot of money to compete head to head with Dewalt and Milwaukee.
But seemingly pulling back on cordless OPE on top of that?
In my opinion, Makita USA needs a growth strategy, but growth is going to cost a massive amount of money. That they cut jobs and have been enacting other cost-cutting measures for a few years suggests they don’t have a lot of freedom to throw money towards attempts at growth.
As a strategy, “Outdoor Adventure” looks to have failed. Nobody’s talking about it, with respect to tool-users and outdoors enthusiasts.
In my opinion, Makita USA looks to be struggling.
They need smart ideas, luck, and an increase in marketing capital to grow. They’re sponsoring snowmobile racing, but could that money have better went towards tool promotions and incentives?
There’s the potential for them to turn things around, but how?
Makita’s next investor relations report, which I expect to be available in a few weeks, will paint a clear picture of how well or poorly their USA and North American segment has performed over the past 12 months.
It seems that Makita corporate sent a new President and CEO to Makita USA to stop the ship from sinking. Other than a new mail-in rebate program, and decreases promos, I haven’t seen signs of change. https://14cyiuhvcgv.com/makita-usa-major-change-in-leadership-2023/%3C/a%3E%3C/p%3E
None of that is really relevant here. I’ve avoided discussing it because the implications and impacts aren’t clear yet. If a decrease in promos and seasonal visibility is what it takes to cut costs and avoid further job cuts and price hikes, then it’s a good strategy. But what will it mean for Makita’s market share? What will further impacts to their market share mean for USA availability?
Mike
Thanks for analysis of behind the scenes business side that matches up with what Fred and others see on job sites, and consumers see in stores.
This topic is a well documented example of an obvious manufacturing defect. It will be a good test of how Makita stands behind their products. I would push back a bit on commenters claiming that Makita’s quality is generally poor.
Obviously Makita and the pro level tools with big market share all compete on price, and cost savings are part of the design process. This is not a bad thing, as long as the value is there. If Makita is charging more for their products, the quality and performance should justify it.
I’m no tool engineer but one can reference Boltr vids, etc. and hear things like “Why does this Festool cost so much when it’s using bushings instead of bearings?” or “Not you too, Makita?”. I have limited exposure to Festool, but I think their quality is regarded as high, though there have been failures, like Kapex motors, etc. In my experience, Makita’s quality and durability is high. When you start ” value engineering” and manufacturing tools in China, something has to give. Mafell is on another level of price, and apparently quality and performance.
I would put Makita in the category of excellent regarding qc, innovation and performance. I’d put Festool in there too. The difference is Festool is a niche marque around the globe, with an increased footprint in Europe. Makita is a global behemoth whose US presence is shrinking at an alarming rate. Is Makita aiming for a profitable niche luxury position here?
The challenge is Milwaukee and Dewalt are also excellent. Milwaukee’s product range is staggering and Dewalt’s still impressive. All the top brands have great budget and top end tools, but Red and Yellow win the big box shelf wars managing behind the scenes relationships and aggressive pricing.
Metabo HPT, Bosch, etc. are also excellent, with Flex, etc. hot on their heels.
Competition is fierce and generally great for consumers, but there will be losers.
I think Makita is losing because of business reasons – pricing, marketing, distribution.
The whole LXTx2 battery size saga and XGT transition blur the line between business and product aspects, but the voltage wars are complicated for everyone, as everything, including large electric and even gas tools go cordless.
pafroese
thats too bad to hear! I just checked mine, and seem flat as can be (though i don’t have your veritas flat edge) So far i’ve been happy with all of my 40v lineup, except my 8 1/2″ mitre saw, that i love, but has been at the repair shop under warranty for 2 months waiting for replacement parts!
Noah
Interesting to hear. I’ve been thinking of jumping in to the 40v lineup specifically for the 8 1/2” miter saw. I haven’t heard much about the saw but it seems like a great all purpose saw for a site carpenter like me who does many small jobs.
Andy V
I just checked mine . Seems to be flat , I used my Martinez framing square , I trust Mark in making the best squares possible. So I can’t say for certain if the is “perfectly straight “ to check . Sorry to see your saw has this issue . I have not had any issues with my 40v XGT tools . Although I got into it about 2 years ago . Have a lot of Milwaukee & some dewalt . Now XGT . I don’t have a favorite like seeing all the differences between brands & pick the tools the best serve my needs . Hopefully Makita can do something to fix this for you . I really like the XGT line & been my go to for a bit lately.
GM
Makita 40v is not price competitive with anything out there. If Makita kills the 18v line they’ll disappear from the US market. Makita USA is already hemorrhaging money as it is.
On the subject of the Makita 18v X2 plunge saw, I never felt that managing 2 two batteries was much of a problem. It comes with a two-battery simultaneous charger for goodness sake.
Lyle
I don’t have this Makita saw, I have the 2 battery Festool version. On the Festool saw it can operate with one battery at reduced performance of course. I’m not sure if the Makita can also operate one one battery or not. If not I could see this as an inconvenience.
fred
For some tools I can see an issue (weight) that could make it unattractive or even no-go. But for tools like a track saw – where the weight is being supported mostly by the wood being cut – it doesn’t seem like much of an inconvenience. I have a Makita XGD01Z Earth Auger drill that uses 2 18V batteries. Mine came with as a promotion with 4 batteries and a dual-port charger. For my use that combination provides more than enough runtime and the extra weight of a second battery might actually be a good (although somewhat imperceptible) thing in holding the tool down.
Lyle
Fred, first of all, great to see you posting. I felt like I didn’t see you post for a while and I was worried. I’m sure many others share my sentiment when I say I look forward to reading your comments because there is often a lot of experience and wisdom and I appreciate the value that you add to the community.
I agree with you that for a track saw the weight is on the track/workpiece and therefore not much of a concern. I meant it could be inconvenient for a different reason. In my case, I have the 2 5.2Ah batteries that came with the saw and 2 smaller 4Ah? batteries that came with my jigsaw or OMT. My saw is older and it seems like the 5.2Ah batteries don’t run down equally for some reason. I’ve had times where one battery is dead and the other still has enough charge to make effective cuts. It’s way better that I can still finish some work with a single battery rather than having to charge them both or go hunting for my 4Ah batteries. I’m a DIY user so not a lot of production and therefore not a lot of batteries. I just think it is more flexible to be able to operate the saw on a single battery occasionally.
BigTimeTommy
Unacceptably bad quality control. Seems to be more common with every manufacturer lately.
Ed in Texas
I have the corded version. I use it mostly for cutting down sheets of plywood. It took two different orders before I got one with a flat plate. I could see a difference between the two saws when I placed them on a flat countertop. One could easily be rocked back and forth. A straight edge confirmed the saw’s plate wasn’t flat. Overtightened of the track hold down bolts definitely affected the flatness of the plates on both saws. If I over tightened the bolts, both saws had some wobble but one more so than the other saw. So I returned that saw with a note about the problem. Maybe I need to make a warranty claim as well.
jk
I haven’t put this through it’s paces fully yet but I had a similar issue with my 10+year old corded makita track saw. It was not marrying to the track well and I know the wobble of which you speak. Some deep message board dive led me to someone diagnosing some weird tension across the plate from the tilt lock knobs. I don’t remember the fix in detail but I set the saw plate on my flat table saw cast iron, loosened the tilt knobs and clamped the plate flat. I re tightened the knobs and it has been a night and day difference. The knobs seem to pull a twist into the plate if not set correctly. it helped!
MFC
I don’t have Makita tools (well, one impact driver that’s still alive) but I got a DeWalt flexvolt advantage circular saw and was having a lot of issues with it and hated using it so I was going to change out the blade and that’s when I noticed the blade was not parallel with the shoe. It was off by about 1/32 across the blade, but that made a big difference in how it functioned. I returned it and got another one and that was fine and haven’t had any issues.
John E
Over half my DeWalt cordless circular saws have had this problem; some worse than others. There’s no way to adjust them either without getting highly creative. My old 364 corded has a set screw where you can cam the base plate left or right to true it to the blade. I’ve quit expecting much from most tool companies. Instead of a new model number every six months, why not build one or two saws that just work right.
CoBlue
I’ve had to readjust the blade alignment ever so slightly on a track saw that suffered a particularly unfortunate fall. While it was an annoying process, it worked much better afterwards.
I noticed that my Bosch cordless circular saw mentions how to adjust the alignment in the manual. I’ve not had to do so, but it’s nice to know it’s there. If any of my other saws allow this, it’s not mentioned in their manuals.
JR Ramos
I saw the comment above about checking the bevel lock, but that’s what I was going to say also: check the mounting points for the plate. When Porter Cable first brought out their mag shoe on the circular saws (what was that, mid-90s or so) they had some issues that turned out to be from the housing mold…tightening the screws for mounting slightly bowed the plate despite all of those engineered stiffening ribs. Makita had a similar issue when they brought theirs out but it did turn out to be warpage on the plate from improper cooling (as it was told to us, anyway). Best thing is to remove the plate, let it relax for awhile, and check it for straightness, and then see if you can check the mounts (may not be easy or even possible depending on how those are configured). I think I’d probably sell it off before trying to flatten the plate at home, but the suggestion above about your surface plate and some abrasive sheet isn’t a bad idea if you wanted to give it a try and it should be quick work.
Always always check tool plates for flatness, square, and plumb when you first get them. No matter who makes it. Every single manufacturer is quick to blame the users (because they do see a lot of abuse of tools and “fraudulent” warranty claims) and things like this are low hanging fruit. If you may have a soured relationship then it’s pretty unlikely they’ll extend any goodwill to take care of it for free/out of warranty.
Chad Briggs
Help me understand why having a cordless track saw is so important? If it’s because the cord gets in the way then what about the hose? Also, the batteries (battery) make the tool more cumbersome. Most the time when I am using the track saw it is in my shop where I have plenty of power to plug it in. I guess I’m old school and see no reason to have a cordless track saw. I’m ready to buy a new one and can’t seem to convince myself to go cordless on a track saw.
Stuart
I own a Festool track saw.
Home Depot provided me with a Makita 18V X2 cordless track saw. I have also tested Festool’s cordless track saw in the past.
The Festool cordless track saw was okay, but I didn’t find it convincing. It was an older model. Over time, I gradually used the Makita 36V saw more and more, instead of my Festool corded saw.
It was a little more convenient, even though I also have a dust extractor with AC aux port for automatic activation.
If you have to drag around a dust collection hose, is it really inconvenient to add an AC power cord to the mix? Logically, no. Realistically, it makes a bigger difference than I would have thought.
Bob
A cordless track saw is cheaper than buying a truck or van. Let’s me break down sheet goods in the parking lot to get them home. One, that opens up options other than HD where I can buy better products. Two, if going to HD, it’s much faster than trying to find someone that can run the panel saw.
Lyle
I was going to say the same thing. I waited for them (Festool) to come out with the cordless version of the track saw and I also use it to break down sheet goods in places where I might not otherwise have power like in a parking lot. In those cases I don’t run the dust collection. I do agree that if you are running a dust collector then having a power cord isn’t a big deal. Currently my Traci saw is in the attic where I’m insulating and putting down some 3/4” plywood sheets. Using the track saw is way better for me than a normal circular saw. It can still connect to some of my crappy shop vacs that I leave in the attic and I just manually power them on.
SteveP
The fence on my 20-yr-old Bosch sliding compound miter saw (wired) warped when I left it in my unheated garage workshop over winter. We get down to minus 20F now and then, so it’s cold, but you wouldn’t expect that to warp metal. I considered having it reground but managed to find a replacement on eBay which I now bring inside the house for winter
Lincoln
My corded Makita SPJ6000 purchased the end of last year has so much bevel play in the saw it seems crazy. I had only used it for sheet goods until the other day when I used it on 8/4 Sapele and the deflection and burn it caused was horrible. The cut was so wonky. I was disappointed to say the least. I’ve always held high regard for Makita quality before this, and this is my first actual tool from Makita. Atleast one of my two 55″ tracks is also slightly off from the other and causes the transition over when using the saw to not be seamless or smooth. I’m not sure if I should try to contact Makita USA about these issues or not. It makes me wonder if I should have just spent a few hundred more on the festool.
Mez
My corded makita track saw developed the same issue and had a bevelled plate, it was so bad at one point I was eating through blades especially as I cut oak worktops. I decided to dismantle the saw and found a defect in the way the spring actuates against the bottom plate. I put it back together and changed the blade and goy many more years service out of it. It has since developed an issue in the plunge return spring is now not fully returning so sometimes leaves the blade protuding from below the plate. Not ideal if your trying to rest the saw on a surface. Also the depth adjustment guide which is twist key ( always thought was a poor design ) has now fallen apart and the plunge depth can only be co trolled manually. The festool plunge saw is far superior in my opinion.
Steve
I appreciate your articles. I know this comes several months late. But a few points. Firstly, I use and have used both cordless Makitas, the corded Makita, and both sizes of the corded Festools. I’m a finish carpenter.
The front to back warpage of the plate has zero bearing on the cut quality. The side to side warpage could cause issues with squareness of the cut. However, there’s not a track by any manufacturer that doesn’t twist/bend/warp when clamped using the track clamps, so unless there’s more than a sixteenth of side warpage, it shouldn’t be an issue so long as you’re already counting for the track. The truely important part of this setup is that the plate of the saw and the rib in the track are parallel to the blade. Also, that the tracking adjustment knobs are set correctly.
Track saws ARE NOT “skil saws” the provided manuals specifically mention to NOT use it without the track. It is not how they are designed. Can you? Yes. Should you? No.
As for the burns left behind, you never mention your cut rate or blade condition, tooth count etc. You simply compare your cordless to your corded. Obviously, the corded will have more power for dealing with 8/4 stock.
You may indeed have issues with the XGT saw, however, I’d like to see an honest breakdown of troubleshooting regarding the quality of your cuts; instead of blindly assuming a bent plate is at fault. None of my plates are flat, the saws bounce around in the van from job site to job site. They ALL perform as well as when they were new. I use each saw for it’s specific intended purpose. For example, I don’t use a 6.5 cordless for 8/4 quater sawn white oak. Same as I don’t use a 12″ slider miter saw for 1/8″ dowel rod.
Matt
I recently acquired a makita 40v track saw through their e-rebates( slow, other than that no complaints so far), it arrived with approximately the same amount of curvature to the base, I loosened the two set screws in the base and that was all it took to make mine perfectly flat, I have no idea why they would be shipped in that condition
Jeff
Im deep into Makita. I rushed to get one. The idea is great, it has its moments but I think overrated. Even in a shop environment.
Makita told me that this was to replace the tablesaw. Portability.
Problem with that is , you must have a flat surface. Sooo, you have to carry a table?
Stuart
Track saws typically do require steady surfaces. You don’t need a table, but you need sawhorses on flat ground, 2×4 platforms, or a mix of 2x4s and insulation boards.
Rich
I purchased THREE (3) makita corded track saws during Christmas season 2023 and had to sequentially RETURN ALL THREE (3) of them due to warped base plate issue even with the adjustment screws loosened. Two were purchased from Amazon and one was from Home Depot. Makita’s technical support told me that the base plates are supposed to be dead flat. I was so frustrated and pissed at Makita at the time, that I went with the Wen track saw, which has zero problems and produces perfectly straight and clean glue ready cuts even two years later in 2025.