Micro-Mark, a small tool and hobbyist supply specialty retailer, has come out with the LaserKnife, a table-top laser cutter and engraver that can be used on wood, plastic, cloth, foam, cardboard, paper, and other such materials.
The MicroLux LaserKnife has a cutting capacity up to 1/4″ in balsa (1/2″ with multiple passes), 3/32″ in acrylic (1/4″ with multiple passes), and up to 1/32″ in plywood (3/16″ with multiple passes).
Advertisement
As with other laser cutters, this one is not a self-contained unit, and requires venting to the outside in order to remove hazardous fumes. It also requires a 5-gallon bucket to contain 3 gallons of distilled water. You will also have to supply your own computer.
Specs
- 40W CO2 laser tube power
- Footprint: 32″ x 26″ x 10.5″ (with lid closed)
- Weighs 55 lbs
- Working area: 9.8″ x 9.8″
The LaserKnife is indeed somewhat of a small machine, but that’s reflected in its price, which is about 1/4 that of the most entry-level Epilog laser cutter, at least as of the last time I checked.
It’s made in China, but Micro-Mark’s product description and accompanying literature repeats that it’s to their specs. In my experience, and from what I’ve read about their mills, lathes, and other MicroLux-branded machinery, Micro-Mark specifications result in a far-from-stock tool. From what I have seen, some Micro-Mark tools are worth spending more, compared to stock or less customized versions of the same tool, if even available in the USA.
This PDF goes through the “Micro-Mark Difference” for the LaserKnife. Generally, the “Micro-Mark Difference” means higher pricing. If you’re looking to buy the bare version of this (I haven’t tried to track down the OEM model yet), weigh the differences against the added cost (if there is one) before making a purchasing decision.
Advertisement
The MicroMark LaserKnife was designed, or at least optimized, for small area cutting and engraving needs. As with other laser cutters, it’s designed to work with thin sheet materials, such as plastic and paper-based. Certain plastics, such as PVC, can NOT be used with the machine, as they produce very toxic fumes when heated.
Unlike other laser cutters, it doesn’t look like the LaserKnife can engrave aluminum or other metallic materials.
Micro-Mark’s imager gallery shows a couple of cutting application examples, as well as engraving examples. Some, like this laser-cut airframe, are typical representations of what the laser cutter can do. I didn’t understand some of the images as first, such as the ones that show brick-textured scale buildings for a model railroad setup, as I didn’t get that the brick texture was entirely engraved. Hopefully Micro-Mark creates a larger image gallery showing with this (and other laser cutters) can do for hobbyists.
The package comes with:
- Lighted and painted steel cabinet
- Honeycomb platen
- Clear window
- Internal power supply and external 110V AC to 220V AC power converter
- Air compressor and tubing
- Water pump and tubing (for cooling the laser tube)
- Exhaust fan and duct
- Power cord and USB cable
- CorelLaser software plug-in (non-Home/Student CorelDraw version 11+ must be purchased separately)
- Sample drawings
- Lens focusing gauge
- Start-up materials sample pack
- Spare fuses
- Instructions, maintenance directions, wiring diagram, tips and tricks
Price: $1,995 + $24 freight
Buy Now(via Micro-Mark)
Compare(via Amazon)
There are some similar-looking machines on Amazon, but with different capacities and control panel layouts. If you can find a similar machine from the same OEM, please let us know! It’ll be curious to see how this machine compares to the “stock” version.
Jason
Man so much cool fab tech for the person at home now!!
Esa
Would have loved to have one these…..25 years ago….when I was building RC planes!
Jeremy
With proper fume extraction and a box for when it’s cutting could pvc/abs be cut?
Kent
ABS yes, but never cut PVC, or any chlorinated plastics.
Vinyl materials release chlorine gas when heated, so even if it doesn’t kill you, it will dissolve the interior of the laser cutter. You could probably get away with a few cuts, as long as it was well vented. But in general, it’s a really bad idea.
The “don’t cut” list is long. If you’re unsure, search “MSDS [name of material]” and it will discuss what happens to the material when it burns.
Eddie
You cannot cut ABS either….it produces cyanide gas….my suggestion, don’t listen to any of these idiots about what you can cut…
Stuart
As Eddie said, do NOT attempt to laser-cut materials other than those that are specifically recommended by the manufacturers, or those that you are otherwise expertly advised are okay to cut.
A quick Google search turned up this PDF chart, by Synrad, an industrial CO2 laser manufacturer: http://www.synrad.com/synradinside/pdfs/LaserProcessingGuide_Plastics.pdf
According to that chart, other common plastics that should not be cut include polycarbonate (aka Lexan and other related trade names).
And again, laser cutting PVC is a BIG NO-NO. It creates HCl gas, which, according to Google and Wikipedia, reacts with atmospheric humidity to form hydrochloric acid.
Joe
This is a cool tool I would love to get my hands on. Here’s a video of Ben Heck showing off his (expensive) laser cutter. https://youtu.be/jEE9YOvAYc0
Jim Felt
Just a little background. Micro Mark has been a wonderful source of model railroading (and minatures in general) related tools for myself and friends for decades. And they have pretty relentlessly pursued bettering their tool offerings. So I’m not surprised at this recent product introduction. Or their 3D printing line.
That said they are trying to keep within the “hobbiest” budget level.
Kurt Greiner
I looked into this, but the two materials I like using in my ship models, Sintra (a type of PVC board) and ABS are not recommended. Any kind of PVC is bad news because the gas is both toxic and very bad for the expensive optics. ABS can be cut, but not well. You can read more about various kinds of materials which are not recommended here: http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#NEVER_CUT_THESE_MATERIALS
Jimmie
I wonder if something like this could be used in lieu of etchant for “etching” traces in circuit boards?
Nathan
mostly likely the cut width is wider than you’d want it to be – for the sake of keeping cost down. Also since they don’t mention engraving it sounds like this device is more for through cutting and doesn’t have the regulation circuits to modulate the power for setting of depth.
Shea Silverman
Would love to see how these go against the ~$400 OEM Chinese 40w laser cutters.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Precise-40W-CO2-Laser-Engraving-Cutting-Machine-Engraver-Cutter-USB-Port-/141690337410?hash=item20fd66f882
Matt E.
Stuart,
Great article, and I’d love to read a follow-up that outlines the (semi) affordable fabrication options available to the average consumer. Between 3D printing, CNC Routing, and laser cutting, I’m starting to loose track of what machine works best for which applications.
Jennifer Montemayor
Just put together and the laser doesn’t cut. Test doesn’t show light that cuts. I’m confused.