The beauty behind these Milescraft FenceClamps is that they can be used in all sorts of scenarios where traditional clamps are too big, bulky, or awkwardly sized. They do require some work to use, but you can drill a 3/8″ hole in a block of wood, right?
These are intended to be used to secure sacrificial fences to table saw fences, but can be used for many other tasks where other clamps prove less than ideal.
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This image should give you a good sense of how the clamps work. You drill a 3/8″ hole in a block of wood, and this allows it to be pulled tight to a table saw fence, router table fence, or other such rigid fixture.
There are also right angle clamping blocks that can be used with these FenceClamps.
The clamps have a 1/2″-5-3/4″ opening range. Milescraft doesn’t specify, but clamps like these are usually recommended for use with wood that’s at least 3/4″ thick, although thicker might be better.
If the clamps look familiar, you have probably seen Rockler’s similarly-designed clamps before. There are a few differences – the Rockler clamps have bare metal faces and these Milescraft clamps have a little pad, and the knobs are a little different. The Milescraft clamps are also a little less expensive than Rockler’s.
I own a pair of Rockler’s fence clamps, and have used them as intended – with fence stop blocks – but also to clamp certain fixtures to a workbench. They work pretty well in such capacity, although I wouldn’t trust the clamps in high-strength applications.
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If I had to make the purchasing decision over again, I’d likely go with these Milescraft clamps, not so much for the slightly lower pricing, but the greater ease of placing smaller orders with Amazon. Both brands’ clamps seem to be very highly regarded.
Price: $11-12 for (2) clamps
Now for the tough question – what’s your take on uni-tasker clamps like these?
When I bought my pair of clamps, I did so thinking I’d use them as low-profile fence clamps, but I also had a couple of other applications in mind to test them out with. Even with these clamps in my box, I usually still use small bar clamps or trigger clamps to hold stop blocks and spacers to machine fences.
I wouldn’t describe these clamps as a must-have accessories, but they are definitely convenient and versatile.
Ben
I’ve had a pair of the Rockler clamps for years now and they come in handy every once in a while, especially for auxiliary fences on the table saw. Not the kind of tool I use often, but all of my aux fences are setup to use them.
I disagree that they’re best used in 3/4 plywood, I find it much easier to drill holes into thicker stock. Usually I laminate some MDF for my fences, so they’re closer to 1.5-2 inches thick.
Stuart
Good point, thanks!
I know Rockler recommends, or at least spec’s the opening width for 3/4″ wood, but thicker might be better. I updated the post slightly to reflect this.
It also depends on what the use is. For a stop block or fence spacer, 3/4″ should suffice. For a sacrificial fence, thicker is going to be better.
I had to reference the thickness to avoid anyone thinking they could use this with thinner workpieces. With a centered 3/8″ hole, there’s only 3/16″ space on either side in a 3/4″ thick workpiece. If we’re talking about Baltic Birch, it’s going to be less since the thickness will likely be 18mm (~0.71″).
Rockler’s guidance says the opening width is 1/2″ with the assumption 3/4″ fence/block is used, and I would presume the same is true with the Milescraft.
The clamps can be used on thinner fences or fixtures of thicker wood is used, but I don’t know how often that kind of application or need might come up.
Emma Peel
So I have a set of these clamps from Rockler and while a good idea don’t pan out well as you would like for bigger fences.
I have a standard biesemeyer fience and the depth of the camp as well as the reach of the clamp are just barely big enough to clamp on it. I have a JessEm Clear-Cut TS system on top of the fence and while this is only a inch or so high it completely prevents me from using the clamp in the areas where the Clear-Cut is.
Because the length of the “finger” is not very long I find that when I tension the clamp it pulls the hardest right at the top of the fence. This causes the bottom of whatever I am clamping to pull away from the fence.
An inch or two in both dimensions would go a long way to making this more useful. I really wanted them to work.
All of my issues look like they would not be a problem if I had a fence the size of the one in the picture though.
fred
I’ve experienced the same issue trying to use the Rockler variant with my Unisaw. I’ve also tried the Microjig dovetail clamps that were posted about here about 3-1/ years ago. They work – but you need to first cut dovetails into the back of your sacrificial fence.
https://14cyiuhvcgv.com/micro-jig-matchfit-dovetail-clamps/%3C/a%3E%3C/p%3E
On my jobsite saw (Bosch) – I tend to use the T-track built into the fence to secure stops and sacrificial fences.
Ryan
I went with Micro-jig dovetail clamps over this style. Seems to me to be more versatile.
MattJ
Cool product, great price. Somewhat related, tooling around the Milescraft Amazon page, they’ve got a lot of good stuff at pretty reasonable prices. Had to get out of there before buying a zillion things I don’t need.
fred
Lowes used to stock some Milescraft items, – for routing, drilling etc. To my eye – many seemed either a bit gimmicky or made of rather thin plastic. But they get some decent reviews – so they may be serviceable particularly for home use.
Matt J.
Having bought some from my local Woodcraft, I’ve been less than impressed by the build quality and user friendliness. Bought their doweling jig kit when I first started doing furniture work…terrible!!! no alignment marker dowels, cheap jig, etc. Clamps like this are probably fine, but I’d be wary of anything you want to last or that requires any level of precision.
Hilton
Bessey has something similar but more to use vertically to clamp a clamp to a surface.
RCWARD
They come in handy when you need a stop block or aux fence.
MtnRanch
I agree that, while these are useful, they’d be a lot better if the hook was about 1/2″ longer. They could also bend it a bit past 90 degrees so the force would be applied a little lower on the fence to keep it from rocking away from the fence.
For me, solid wood 3/4″ to 1″ thick works a lot better than plywood for the sacrificial fence.
fred
I find that MDF works for me . I often use one that I partially bury a dado stack in to cut rabbets.
JSBson
Somewhat different style same purpose.
“All steel, with a 3 1/2″ to 4 3/4″ capacity and a throat depth of 1 5/8″. ”
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/jigs-guides-and-fixtures/72984-mounting-clamps-for-fences-and-jigs
Mike
Great article! Am expanding my workshop and was considering another type of clamp, but like what folks said about the Minescraft. Fyi – article states pack of 2, $11-12. Amazon shows pack of 1.
Stuart
Thanks!
Imagery shows 2 clamps and the description says “includes 2 clamps.” Amazon could be confusing things since you get 1 pack of 2 clamps.
Rockler’s are also sold in pairs.
Mike
Well, dadgummit. I just re-looked at the Amazon listing and it clearly says “size-pack of 1”. But, BUT, had I taken time to read the full description, I’d have seen the 2-pack statement. My bad. Thank you for helping me learn how to read. I’m the dork here.
Stuart
Not your fault, I’ve seen this on Amazon before.
I figure that the image plus description outweighs/overrules whatever Amazon’s auto-details says. But it’s the context that’s convincing – it’s most likely that you do get a pair of clamps for the money, because that puts them within a dollar and change of Rockler’s competing product.
Charles
I have the Rockler ones, and find them very useful for high fences and sacrificial fences etc. on the table saw. A one trick pony, but a key one – I just bought this set. Works well with Sawstop Professional