I posted about the new Makita 18V sub-compact circular saw the other day, and several readers brought up the Milwaukee M12 Fuel circular saw.
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So, how do they compare on paper?
Blade Size
Milwaukee: 5-3/8″ or 5-1/2″
Makita: 6-1/2″
5-3/8″ circular saw blades are easily found (Amazon search). 6-1/2″ circular saw blades are more readily available (Amazon search results).
If you need a new blade in a pinch, you’ll have more choices with the 6-1/2″ size.
A quick online search tells me that my local Home Depot carries Avanti 5-3/8″ 18T framing blades. A search of 6-1/2″ blades shows that I can pick up a framing blade, plywood blade, finish blade, or fast framing blade.
Bottom line, you can easily get blades for both saws, but immediate availability sides with the Makita – or the other 6-1/2″ saws in Milwaukee’s M18 lineup, or other 18V-class platforms.
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Cutting Capacity
Milwaukee: 1-5/8″ at 90°
Makita: 2-1/4″ at 90° (reported but not yet officially confirmed)
Both saws can cut plywood and 2x dimensional lumber. If you need to cut more than that, neither saw will do.
Motor Speed
Milwaukee: 3600 RPM
Makita: 5000 RPM (reported but not yet officially confirmed)
Usually, lower speeds meed higher torque.
Without seeing both tools in person, I can only make a prediction that the Makita will see faster application speeds.
Taking into account the blade sizes, and ignoring unknown variables such as if or how the speed changes when under load, let’s do some math.
A 5-3/8″ blade has a 16.87″ circumference, and at 3600 RPM, you have linear cutting speed of 84.4 feet per second.
A 6-1/2″ blade has a 20.42″ circumference, and at 5000 RPM, you have a linear cutting speed of 141.8″ feet per second.
In reality, a lot of factors could come into play. But given the larger blade size and faster speeds, the Makita will likely cut faster. That’s not unexpected, given that it’s an 18V tool and the Milwaukee M12.
Size & Ergonomics
To me, the Milwaukee looks more comfortable to use, but that’s based on 2D images of the Makita. I’ve used the Milwaukee, but not the Makita.
Weight
Milwaukee: 5.35 lbs (with XC battery)
Makita: 7.56 lbs (with 5.0Ah battery)
The Makita is 41.3% heavier than the Milwaukee.
Platform
Milwaukee M12 vs. Makita 18V?
Well, you know which way I’d vote. The answer starts with an “M.”
Price
Milwaukee: $149 bare tool, $229 kit
Makita: $179 bare tool
The Milwaukee saw has been out for over 3 years, and it remains at the same pricing. Makita’s tools, especially sub-compact, have been excluded from all of the recent store promos, at least in my recent memory. Home Depot and other retailers have regular Milwaukee M12 and M18 promos.
Both the M12 and 18V tools seem to be pretty reasonably priced for what they are.
Buy Now(M12 Kit via Home Depot)
Buy Now(M12 Bare Tool via Home Depot)
Buy Now(Makita via Home Depot)
Buy Now(Makita via Amazon)
Verdict
These are different tools for different folks.
The Milwaukee M12 Fuel circular saw seems to be a better fit for cutting trim, 2x lumber, and possibly other materials, such as sheet goods.
The Makita 18V sub-compact saw seems better for… well, I’m not sure. I asked Makita USA about whether they were targeting certain user types with the new circular saw, but they never got back to me.
I’m a little hesitant about the Makita’s ergonomics, given its handle locations. But I’ll refrain from judgement; that’s something that you just can’t tell for sure from a bunch of product photos or images.
On paper, the Makita is appreciably heavier than the smaller Milwaukee M12 saw, but it also has a larger blade size and faster no-load motor speed.
Which one to buy? It’s completely dependent on your needs. Did you buy into Milwaukee’s M12 platform? Makita’s 18V? Do you want a very small saw? Or a smallish saw with greater blade selection?
Although joking before, about the saw whose brand starts with “M,” I think that the M12 is a better choice, as it pairs nicely with a full-size 18V-class 6-1/2″ or 7-1/4″ saw, or a plunge-cutting track saw. But if you don’t want two saws, the Makita might be a fair compromise. Really, you probably couldn’t go wrong with either.
A W
At this size, I would also be interested in cut accuracy. How well is it marked, and how much lateral flex between the blade and the shoe.
A Ryobi circular saw was one of my first power tool purchases, for a diy kitchen remodel. It’s a motor, in its side, I thought, why spend twice as much for a pro grade tool? I wanted to do some floor demo, modify some custom cabinetry and build an island.
The Ryobi was able to hold a consistent depth for the floor demo. But when trying to build a guide to make precision cuts for the cabinetry, I found the flex in the shoe to be unacceptable. I couldn’t get a sufficiently straight cut while holding it against an edge guide. I went back to using a hand saw.
I did some research, went back to the store and bought a corded Makita that is a much better tool and has served me well since.
That experience, along with trying a small Hitachi compound miter saw vs my friends 12″ DeWalt, convinced me that cheaper tools are rarely worth the extra investment. By the time you add up the time to try the cheap tool, get it wrong, go back to the store for a better tool, repeat your work, return the cheap tool, etc., it would have been better to spend a little bit of time reading a comparison guide that gives you a professional opinion on the tool, but the right tool for the job, and do it right the first time.
All that to say, for my application, speed is important, but so is accuracy.
fred
“Both saws can cut plywood and 2x dimensional lumber. If you need to cut more than that, neither saw will do.”
This is based on cutting at 90 degrees to the surface of the wood.
If you plan to do any miter cuts at 45 degrees to the surface of nominal 2x lumber (say for corners of a raised bed) – the Milwaukee saw (5-3/8 blade) will certainly not work. I can’t say if the Makita 6-1/2 saw can do it – but some other 6-1/2 inch-blade saws can not – forcing you to go to a 7-1/4 inch saw.
Michaelhammer
Define cut. Eventually, the Milwaukee will shred, grind and splinter its way through a 2×4. If you have a stack of batteries, lots of spare time and a low opinion of what a cut through 2x material is, then yes the M12 will cut 2x lumber.
fred
BTW – do both have blade brakes?
Quick or instant-stop blades can have an advantage when making “stopped cuts” – and of course they represent a safety enhancement
Travis
Makita blade brake is excellent on this saw.
Gordon
The biggest thing is going to be torque; how much do these saws bog down cutting wet lumber or larger PT. All things being equal, lower RPM would suggest higher torque. But nothing is equal here. I would put my money on 18v over 12v, regardless of who makes it, until we know more.
The other potential win for the Makita is depth of cut at 45. This sub-compact has a similar size to the XSH03, which lists a cut depth of 1 5/8 at 45. That definitely makes it a more versatile saw.
Either way, I don’t think either is replacing a 7 1/4 saw. So these are more “nice to haves.” In that case, the clear winner is going to be whatever battery system you already have.
Bolt
I’ve never been a fan of 5 3/8” saws for cutting 2x lumber and what not. Especially on bigger boards with any amount of bow or twist to them you’re just never going to get a good clean cut.
Framer joe
If your using bowed ,twisted boards the saw isn’t your problem
Chris Fyfe
I find that the M12 circ. has become my default circ saw . It works fine on sheet goods , and nominal 2” stock . I don’t really want to introduce another battery platform at this juncture . I have Milwaukee , Bosch 12V. , Fein , and Festool already !
Chris
Chip
Without trying the Makita,and owning the m12 dustcatcher..
Makita all the way.
The Milwaukee is grossly underpowered even with a 6ah battery, albeit lightweight
Yrmv.
I put together an m12 bag of 2ah batteries,impact,drill, drill and driver bits,hacksaw,and the aforementioned saw for my sister’s to use around their house.
Jehremy
I’m invested into Makita’s 18V line. I have their rear-handled 36V saw, and I’ve been waiting for a sub-compact circ saw to be released. I love the other sub-compact tools they’ve released. I’ll definitely be buying this new saw.
I’ve recently gifted my father a few M12 tools from the Father’s Day promos. So he’s working on expanding that battery platform, and I’m sure the M12 circ saw will be next for him.
pete
Thats a box-y makita saw. i wonder what the reason for the design was.
Chris
Probably compactness. If you’re going to market a saw as compact, you don’t really want handles and other components jutting out every which way.
Pete
I was wondering if they also has a secondary use for the design. Like a metal cutting saw. Internals would be different but the moulding could be the same.
ktash
Might it be to increase depth of cut while being smaller?
Kevin Franklin
I use my M12 more than any other saw just because it is light weight and small. If I need to grab a larger M18, I have a couple at may disposal, but they only come out when needed. The M12 will satisfy most people that only need a saw for the occasional cut of 2″ lumber or small sheet cuts.
Rami
If the Milwaukee has 1-5/8″ capacity then how is it able to cut 2x material?
Doresoom
2X material is 1.5″ thick. 2X refers to the rough cut dimension.
fred
Unless you’re working on an old house with “full dimension” lumber and maybe balloon framing too – then some 2 x 4 ‘s may have actually been 2 x 4
Dressed lumber dimensions (that have shrunk slightly more over the years) can be confusing to some.
There is other wood dimension lingo worth learning – like hardwood rough dimensions (4/4, 5/4, 7/4 etc.) – where you the number of sides surfaced.
Here’s one reference I found:
https://www.archtoolbox.com/materials-systems/wood-plastic-composites/dimensional-lumber-sizes-nominal-vs-actual.html
Then to make things interesting – when you buy hardwood in random widths and lengths – you often specify it by board feet.
Rami
Right, I got it. It feels so weird that american 2×4 is so much smaller than a european 2×4. At least here in Finland, when you buy a 2×4 you really get a 2×4 as its dimensions only range from about 50x100mm to 52x102mm.
Michaelhammer
It gets worse. Sheet goods, which are fabricated from scratch, are also sold by nominal size. Typically they are 1/32” smaller in thickness. This has always irked me.
Justin
I love my m12 circular saw. It certainly doesn’t have the power to overcome stupid board placement, so you have to pay attention to the strain you are putting on the piece you are cutting. Outside of that, its crazy light for the work it can do and you aren’t fighting any power cords.
The only reason I’d see for the Makita is if you were already invested in their platform. I do like that these guys are starting to make some heavy/light versions of tools in the 18v space. Just because you’re running 18v doesn’t mean you want to work with a boat anchor.
Framer joe
Makita doesn’t have the most powerful 18v cordless tools and the subcompact tools are less powerful and larger then M12 Fuel tools…but they have a fan base that will buy anything…
No pro can get away with having just 1 line of tools if you want production and quality , so the whole 1 battery platform is ridiculous, it would be nice but not practical.
I get it , buy into Makita 18v batteries and use subcompact or 18v or 36v tools,,great but none are tops in their catagories.
With Milwaukee you buy into 12v compact , lightweight, powerful tools or 18v , and the batteries work with all 18v tools,except if you use your 5ah in a HD tool it doesn’t work nearly as well as the 12ah and runtime sucks…so really you need to buy 12ah batteries to work properly ..
Same with dewalt, a great 18v(20v) line or you go heavy duty Flexvolt….and all the batteries work on all tools….
The best tools cost big money, vacuums- Hilti or Festool, jigsaw -Mafell or Festool, etc…….but 1 line of tools trying to do everything is a joke….
….BTW I run 3 framing companies with over 30 years framing experience,,2ksqft to 20k sqft….custom homes, …frame everyday,love it….1 truck runs Makita,1 runs DeWalt and 1 runs Milwaukee….tools……. .. nothing cuts better then Flexvolt saws, drills and impacts are about the same for the 3 brands, sawzalls go to Milwaukee… mitre saws and table saws are DeWalt flexvolt….all other tools are about equal……
If your DIY but Ryobi.. or.. Ridgid, both solid companies….
Michaelhammer
You have a narrow view of professional. My plumber, a professional, uses milwaukee exclusively, because no other platform offers the array of tools he needs. My electrician uses DeWalt exclusively. I use Milwaukee exclusively because I don’t want the hassle of multiple battery platforms. Not only because of plug space on a job, but it also breeds inefficiency. Inefficiency cost time and time is money.
James C
The Makita looks like it has a shorter distance between the front of the shoe and the blade. This could be helpful when working in tight spaces, e.g. cutting up to a wall or in a joist bay. Hard to tell from the pic just how different it is though.
Rick
Still ain’t flush , and at that point since I have to break out another tool to finish, an extra half inch does help nor justify another tool
jayne
I have the Milwaukee m12 and it’s wonderful. A real joy to use. I have a 4.0 battery just right for my diy stuff.
RKA
How is this not comparing apples and oranges? Milwaukee has a 6.5” M18 saw. Wouldn’t that be the best comparison to the Makita sub-compact? I’m guessing the Makita falls somewhere in between the M12 and 6.5” M18 saws, but you’re still saying it’s 40% heavier than the M12 (and I’m not sure if that includes the battery weight in each).
Anyway, the Milwaukee M12 is a special use case saw, intended to do light cutting in 2x materials and 3/4” sheet goods. The Makita is clearly intended to do more.
Dcl
I’d probably get the Makita. I’m using my full size cordless quite a bit to cut XPS foamboard to dimension. The Milwaukee wont do 2in so it’s out. Also I got the m12 fuel hackzall right before the subcompact recip came out, and after using a coworker’s I regret getting the m12. A little better quality, a more features, faster battery charge time, etc.
RKA
If you have a jigsaw, look into a knife edge Bosch blade for that application. Almost no mess compared to a saw!
Toolfreak
I’d rather Bosch make and bring over a 12V circular saw already.
TonyT
Bosch has had it for years, they just don’t want to sell it to us (:
https://14cyiuhvcgv.com/bosch-12v-circular-saw-jigsaw-rotary-tool/%3C/a%3E%3C/p%3E
fred
I’ve seen them on Amazon – maybe grey market?:
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Professional-Cordless-professional-universal/dp/B077BVMZR3/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1532649157&sr=8-14&keywords=bosch+cordless+saw
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-10-8-Professional-Cordless-Jigsaw/dp/B073YYJKD8/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1532649224&sr=1-3&keywords=bosch+cordless+jigsaw&dpID=51bU9Qt-GnL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
TonyT
The jigsaw is now available in the US as the JS120BN for $110-$120; it’s on my wish list.
fred
You can buy it right now for $89.99 with free shipping at Acme Tools – with their BOSCH20 promo code.
Toolfreak
That’s a little more of a multipurpose saw – I’d like to see Bosch come out with something a little closer to the Milwaukee M12 version, with a left side blade, too.
I’d get the 18V version if they had other stuff in the lineup I wanted, but I’m avoiding having 12V and 18V tools.
D
I don’t understand why these saws are even being compared. They’re in a completely different class.
It’s like comparing a compact 18V drill to an M12 drill.
For some reason Milwaukee ends up being mentioned and compared to in almost every discussion.
Doresoom
Well, the Gen 2 M12 Fuel drill and the Makita subcompact 18V have almost identical performance specifications, so I’d say for drills it’s at least a valid comparison.
D
It wouldn’t be fair to compare it with the Dewalt DCD791 20V compact drill, or the Bosch DDS183 18V compact drill. Each are 60Nm or 70Nm with upwards of 2,000rpm.
It sounds like the subcompact line will benefit the Milwaukee marketing machine. “look, our 12V matches 18V”. I think we’ll be seeing a lot of painted grey subcompact tools in Milwaukee promo videos from now on.
Eric
In that instance then I’d say M12 wins since you don’t have to have the giant battery pack on the bottom of the tool. Not a big deal if your in construction, but if your working on a car it’s a factor.
ToolOfTheTrade
I don’t understand the comparison either or how someone would even consider it remotely close to a valid comparison. More like pears and pineapples. Completely different classes of tools and capabilities, etc. Although Makita reduced the size & power of the motor for size purposes, an 18v circ saw & 12v circ saw have no commonality in terms of specs whatsoever. Especially these two being that one’s a lefty & the other’s a righty. Other than being cordless circ saws,which is the only commonality between them, there’s no validity to the question of comparing the two saws.
RC WARD
I agree
fred
Why compare them?
At the very beginning of this post Stuart said:
“I posted about the new Makita 18V sub-compact circular saw the other day, and several readers brought up the Milwaukee M12 Fuel circular saw.”
I think that he knew that it was apples and oranges
Stuart
Exactly.
Austin Werrmann
The makita should’ve been 5 3/8″ as well. They already make a couple 6 1/2″ saws and how much smaller can this be than those.
D
That’s a good point. I wonder if they did it because they’re bringing out a 6 1/2 inch 12V max CXT version. Usually the subcompacts and 12V are almost the same.
If the they are, and it’s a 12V 5 3/8 inch, then we’ll be saying why they didn’t make a 12V 6 1/2inch.
D
I might add that I wouldn’t be surprised if there was a 6 1/2 inch 12V on it’s way. Makita now have a 12V string trimmer.
X
Makita does have a 18V Compact 5 3/8 inch, and weights similar to M12. It is just not available in US.
https://www.makita.co.jp/product/li_ion/hs471d/hs471d.html
Colin
Makita already produces a 5 3/8 18v trim saw, XSS03. This would seem like a better comparison to the Milwaukee. Those 5 3/8 blades with a 20mm arbor can be a pain to find!
Stuart
Maybe, but readers were drawing the comparison on the Makita 18V preview post, and so I thought I’d expand upon that with an objective analysis.
ktash
What about the blade quality on the Milwaukee? I have Makita corded saws and the OEM blades were excellent, much better than other OEM blades I’ve had. Cut beautifully and lasted and lasted. Don’t know about Milwaukee OEM blade quality.
Nathan L
It’s nice to see more options for small cordless circular saws.
I bought the M12 Fuel because i had decided to stick with m12 tools. It’s not a perfect tool but i don’t regret it and have been pretty impressed with what a 10.8V saw can do these days. It’s not easy to do miter cuts, especially on 4×4 posts (not even cutting both sides will completely do the job), but not impossible to do rough work even with some 4×4 in the mix.
I did buy a highly-rated corded Milwaukee circ saw awhile ago and ended up selling it because it was simply too bulky and heavy for most of my uses, which is obviously not the same conclusion that a lot of people would come to, so YMMV.
Corey
I feel that a lot of people miss the point in the sub compacts, that being ergonomics and clear over-competence in the tasks they’re meant for, which further shines in what a legitimately pleasant experience it is when using them. Torque in a sub, or 12v class saw should be moot. Balance, accuracy, and battery life are why you reach for these. I left M12 because of the dedication to that damn stem pack and the fat-a$$ generic buldge handles they require, simple as that. I own a couple trucks full of DeWalt XR s and FV, but regularly pick up my sub compacts for daily drivers because they’re just plain amazing in the hand, accomplish repetitive basic crap with zero struggle, and milk a 2ah battery for hours (which charge in about 20 minutes). Only subs I haven’t picked up are the rotohammer and hammer drill/driver. I won’t be because hammer drills are pointless, and I don’t have a use for a roto that small lol In any case, apples to pineapples crap aside, I see the validity in the comparison within this class of tool, and I think Makita is on the money with their focus of ergonomics blended with things like above average capacity, all within their same 18v platform. Wasn’t the marketing on M12 something along the lines of, “12v can do 80% of your job anyway.”? I don’t see value in investing in a platform that can only do 80%, when there’s an alternative with all the selling points that make 12v appealing, but still work off an 18v system that can get you 98%. Ramble over lol
chin_monster
I seem to be in the minority with my dislike for the m12 saw but at l least some of that seems to be based on it’s dislike of the small / compact batteries -it seems to be nearly useless when powered by them (and at the time didn’t own any of the bigger batteries).
But to be fair, it seems to be a completely different tool when it’s powered by the larger XC form factor batteries.
I’ve always just chalked it up to being that some tools really just need the added power of 18v.
Rick
Curious why this isn’t compared to a gen 1 or 2 DeWalt 6.5 saw. I only bought it because It was the only DeWalt saw on the market, and brushless wasn’t out. I’d never otherwise consider a 6.5.
The cost savings in blades between 7.25 and 6.5 is 2 fold.
Stuart
Because in the Makita post, there were several mentions of the Milwaukee M12 saw.
Compared to other saws like the Dewalt 20V Max 6-1/2″, things will look closer on paper.
Jimmie
Late to the party but my 2 cents…
It comes down to what ecosystem you’re already invested in. If you’re already invested in M12, then the choice is clear. If you’re invested in Makita 18V, hmm…that’s a good question. I’d probably be inclined to go with a larger 18V saw given the price.
I have a lot of M12 gear so I bought the M12 Fuel saw about a year ago figuring that I’d probably send it back. But I was surprised. It has no trouble cross-cutting 2x lumber though I’m not sure if it has enough oomph to rip an 8-foot board, especially with a dull or sappy blade…haven’t tried myself. Obviously it has no trouble with plywood. Balance is good and while I’ve used other saws one-handed, after using the M12 one-handed the others by comparison feel on the verge of being uncontrollable.
All said, just as the M12 hackzall has replaced my full-sized sawzall for almost everything, the M12 circular saw has pretty much become my go-to circular saw.
fc
For me, it’s blade left only.
Randy
Agreed. IF I was left-handed.
I fabricated a simple and very effective zero clearance tracked miter square out of 1/4” Masonite. I hold it with my left hand while making my cut with the saw in my right hand. A left bladed saw would not allow for a stable or square right-hand held guide design since the majority of the shoe would not be riding on the guide.
Todd
Own the M12 saw and like it. It definitely has its limitations on cut capacity, but it’s so easy to store and use when needed. I upgraded to a Diablo blade and it made a big difference. It will cut through wet PT lumber with ease if you don’t jam it through. I recently bought the 7 1/4″ Milwaukee and returned it. I ended up getting the 6 1/2″ Milwaukee model instead because it was blade left. I grew up with blade right, but after using the M12 blade left I got spoiled. Off topic from this comparison, but if I was cutting all day everyday I personally would buy the newer Dewalt 577 worm drive style (blade left). IMHO it is the most powerful cordless saw right now and that is coming from a Team Red member. The downside is it’s large and heavy. For my usage it didn’t make sense so stuck with Red. IMHO if you using a power tool for your living I would not base my decision on battery platform. I would just buy the best tool possible and the batteries/chargers as required.