You guys were awesome with your ladder recommendations! Your insights and experiences helped me out, and I’m sure they will benefit ToolGuyd readers now and in the future as well. Now it’s time to talk about caulk guns!
I have a Kobalt caulk gun that I bought a couple of years back because it was cheap. Well, it was inexpensive and cheap. Part of the metal construction broke off. It didn’t affect usability too much, but was annoying enough that it left a lasting memory. Not that the breakage makes a difference now, because I cannot find the darned thing! Maybe it broke further the last time I used it and I threw it away?
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I need to do some basic caulking, nothing major, and will probably have to caulk here and there every once in a while after that. Since I can’t find my Kobalt caulk gun, I figured it’s time to buy a new one. So which to choose… ?
At the top of my list is this Dripless ETS2000 composite caulk gun. It’s said to be lightweight, while still being “industrial grade.” Some product descriptions call it professional grade, others say industrial grade. Dripless also makes contractor grade and consumer grade caulk guns, with different options. This looks to be the most expensive of Dripless’ low thrust 10-ounce caulk gun.
It has a 10 ounce capacity and 12:1 thrust ratio, which Dripless says is ideal for use with latex, acrylic, and silicone caulks and similar compounds. Additional features include a spout cutter, hanging hook, extra long clean-out rod, and revolving frame.
Hopefully the brand name is an indication that Drilless caulk guns drip less than competing models, at least those in the same price bracket.
All that, for $12.50. On the other hand, that’s 2x to 6x more expensive than some of the inexpensive caulk guns you can get at home centers. Yep, you can get a caulk gun for as little as $2.
Buy Now(Dripless ETS2000 via Amazon)
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A Newborn “drip-free” model also appears to be popular, and is a little cheaper too at $10 and change via Amazon, but the Dripless just looks to be more ergonomic and user-friendly to me.
What would you recommend for a general purpose caulk gun? Is there something you would recommend better than that Dripless model?
What would you recommend for a casual user like myself? More frequent users? Daily users?
Tyler
I have the gun linked below for both 10 oz and 1 quart tubes. No particular reason that I chose it, other than it was what was available at the store and it wasn’t a rickety bargain bin gun. I’ve had pretty good luck with them. My only complaint is there isn’t a cutter built into it. My old generic gun had a cutter built into the handle. Not a deal breaker, I just had to change my habits to remember a utility knife when I depart for my project. When I was in high school I siliconed thousands of feet of seams to prep livestock trailers for paint or seal off enclosed trailers, a gun with better control like this would have been very welcomed.
http://www.menards.com/main/p-2242352-c-7932.htm
Brandon
Personally, I hate “no drip” caulk guns because I can’t lay down a continuous bead longer than one pull of the trigger. With a standard gun, the caulk will keep flowing while I release and start on a second trigger squeeze. With the “no-drip” guns, the caulk will stop flowing, and I can’t get a nice, even bead without going back and smoothing it with my finger.
Sorry, I don’t have a good gun to recommend, though. I think all the ones that my local Lowe’s stocks are junk. The best one I’ve ever owned was purchased at an Ace Hardware years ago.
Chris
Can’t go wrong with any of the newborn guns especially the open frame style. Awesome guns and it’ll last longer than however many two dollar guns it would take to make up the cost.
Drew M
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQS5GO
I have that newborn gun and generally like it but I wish it had a … higher?.. thrust ratio. My hand starts hurting whenever I have to dispense a lot of caulk.
In the past, I preferred the ‘skeleton’ frame caulk guns because the tube couldn’t deflect as the piston applied force to the plunger.
Rick
Experts in their field:
http://albioneng.com/
High quality; great help, if you need it; commercial grade; nice.
Peter
COX 41004-XT Extra Thrust 10.3-Ounce Cartridge 18:1 Mechanical Advantage Cradle Manual Caulk Gun.
I caulk for a living. Glass to glass, glass to aluminum, aluminum to stone, aluminum to steel. This gun cost about $30 on Amazon and it’s what we use. Mine has survived a 45′ fall, being buried in mud, lost in snow and found in the spring time. The cartridge and sausage caulk guns are the industry workhorses. I’ve been a glazier in Cleveland for 15 years and I’m still using the same gun for each application. I also bought the Milwaukee m12 cordless gun. That is an amazing tool as well, but it’s quite a bit more money.
William Griffin
Peter you are correct, Cox is by far the best. Ask anyone in the caulk/sealant industry and they will swear by Cox.
john
Yep. Same in the UK. Cox guns are the absolute best. I have a few knocking about and on the odd occasion I am without one and use another make I regret it.
SteveR
Peter has obviously been at this for some time. I bought a Cox open-frame gun (orange frame, black handle and trigger, non-ratcheting) maybe 20 years ago, because it was supposed to be dripless. Very well made and built to last. It probably has an 18:1 thrust ratio (or higher). For those not aware, the higher thrust ratio guns are used on viscous (thick) caulks. It didn’t come with instructions (and I didn’t know what I was doing), so every time I released the trigger, it oozed caulk for ten seconds or so. You go through a lot of caulk that way. I had no clue you were supposed to push in on the spring-loaded tab at the back, then pull back on the rod to release the spring tension; that prevents more caulk from being released. Live and learn.
Most recently, I purchased a Newborn Model 115D, which has a thrust ratio of, I think, 7:1. It has a weak spring tensioner for the trigger, so that when you release it, it stops pumping out caulk. Eureka. It was about $11 on Amazon and works well. It, too, has a tab, but no spring at the tab, so it pretty much stops pushing out caulk when you release the trigger. It is red, has a hex-shaped rod and is non-ratcheting. It works okay and, once you understand the operating principle, you won’t go through a tube of caulk every 15 minutes. Oh, and it (like most other caulk guns) has a wire seal breaker. Oddly, my expensive Cox gun didn’t come with one.
It’s messy using a caulk gun, even if you know what you’re doing. I would suggest two things: Wear latex gloves when you use one, especially if you’re using it just before lunch time. The other thing is to use a spray or wipe some type of “break-bond” (light oil) on the caulk gun itself to aid in clean-up. Keep a can of Pam food-grade cooking spray handy and apply that before you start work each day; clean-up will be a breeze. If you’re new at this, watch several videos on YouTube to get a handle on how it’s done.
If you’re using a gun that offers a TR of 18:1 or higher (I think they go to 26:1), the more viscous (thicker) the material. That especially applies to a “dual-component” gun, the kind that mixes two types of materials (such as an epoxy) together, then forces the material through a mixing “straw” before it’s released. Straws, by the way, are a one-time use, as the material sets up in it within a few hours of mixing.
If you’re a home-owner and just need a small amount of caulk, you might be money ahead by just using those plastic squeeze tubes of caulk, rather than the standard 10.1 ounce cardboard tubes. It’s difficult to reseal a standard tube once opened, and the material in the nozzle tends to harden in place between uses. It can be removed, but it takes patience, grit and determination to extract the hardened caulk. If possible, try to schedule several small jobs to use the entire tube.
matty
PC Products High Thrust 26:1 Ratio gun. It’s like night and day, compared to your basic three to five dollar gun every home owner has. Your caulking skills will instantly improve with less pulls on the trigger laying smooth beads with ease.
http://www.amazon.com/PC-Products-Steel-Dispensing-Caulk/dp/B00NEG9TCC
http://www.homedepot.com/p/PC-Products-26-1-Caulk-Gun-900550/202017659
David Funk
Looks just like 12 dollar kobalt from lowes that I like
David Funk
Item #: 525857
Model #: LGS-138C
Lowes
Robert
Agree, another vote for lowes 525857. This one works great.
matty
Not sure the lowes LGS-138C is the High Thrust 26:1 Ratio. i see they do carry the PC gun at lower Item #: 271673 | Model #: 900550 for$36
Lee
It’s purely depends on your application. Do you NEED to have a nice smooth line which looks like it’s done by Robot or factory mold out. If yes, the regular all metal heavy duty gun is the best bet. (You can control the speed of your hand, and flow)
Yes, you can get a electric/cordless one, but…. sometimes they will pump a touch too fast or so, and leave a small bump up. If your client isn’t that picky (CEO’s washroom vs co-worker’s washroom) You save yourself a lot of time & energy with the electric one.
John Sullivan
For what it’s worth, I’ve never seen a “fancy” caulking gun in the hands of a professional painter, contractor, nor boatbuilder, even those who are in the top strata of the price range. Those are the only trades that I associate with who actually use caulking guns, so my observations may not be worth much.
Personally, I’ll stick to the stamped steel caulking gun frames. They’re cheap enough to be disposable and they generally give a lot more warning when they’re about to break. In my experience, hard plastics tend to snap unexpectedly.
The only times I see plastic guns in use are when there are 2-part mixing tubes/nozzles in service.
Sean
I’ll second the “don’t buy plastic.” I bought a caulk gun recently that had a plastic frame and all the “bells and whistles” because it was one of the higher priced ones at Lowes or HD ($12 range).
It broke on second use when I put a 2-day old tube of caulk in there and had to press a little harder than when it was new. It just a plastic handle over a thing piece of metal (shaped and twisted like a spring to get that trigger pull effect.)
I couldn’t remember exactly where I bought it, and when I went back to both of the aforementioned stores to see if I could exchange, I didn’t even find the same model in stock.
The big box stores definitely do NOT carry any higher-end caulk guns. They basically have a 3-tier pricing scheme on what they carry, and they’re all crap.
I plan to invest in one of the guns recommended in this thread. I very recently researched this topic and found a great thread on another site about this topic, in which people were mentioning many of the same brands/models. I’m confident that many of these are a magnitude greater than the cheap, basic ones we’ve all seen and used. At least, I’m confident enough to spend $20-30 to find out! (That M12 one sounds kind of cool too…)
Percy Blakeney
From my first hand experience, just one house may require a couple cases of caulk, because of neglect, or just because it’s a REALLY big house.
As an example, farm house I worked a few miles away and about twelve (12) years back took two boxes of caulk and a lot of backer to complete. The paint had been neglected for thirty years and the desert sun took a toll.
Prep is EVERYTHING when it comes to getting a quality paint job. A crap, five dollar ($5.00) caulk gun is the stuff of amateurs, even if paid and operating with a business license.
With a cheap gun, extra caulk pumped onto a crack or joint has to be dealt with. This, often, means wood siding or textured siding ends up with huge smooth streaks that tell of caulking blunders.
My dripless guns (DRIPLESS) do the job. Not perfectly, but a damn sight better than a disposable gun does.
Walty
I’ve been using the ETS2000 for the last 2 or 3 years with absolutely no complaints. I also bought the higher thrust ratio one for a job I was working. Did about 750 feet of concrete sealer around a CVS pharmacy foundation. My hands didn’t get sore at all.
David
I prefer the jerky cannon lol.
Adam
Awesome. My favorite is the one in your picture. No ideas the brand, but it stops when I let go of the trigger, and smooth when I do pull it. I’m caulking all the wholes on our house were trim screws are in the PVC trim, not fun, but much better with out a horrible caulk gun (any Lowes & HD carry I believe)
Found the caulker, and it has an AllPro sticker on it, and the hard plastic is stamped ETS2000, Ergo Tech Series. it was bought at O’Leary’s paint in Michigan. It was under $15
Adam
I have also tried the Milwaukee M12 caulk gun. It was a great device until you need to caulk something with you arm extended. The weight from the device is there only downside. It pumps the most consistent line of caulk/glue/wherever and stops instantly. If I has to do another whole home of anything, I’d for sure have this day 1 & the 1 I mentioned above too. The adjustment and speed is great on the m12, just not the weight
tim
I either use the cheapest ones you can find as they throw down the best beads, or I use my 18v ryobi caulk gun.
I used to lay out alooooooot of 3m marine adhesive and anything in between was a total piece of failure in my book.
Zach
Cox..
Nathan
I’ll give another nod to the Cox products – that’s what I have at home and I swear I bought it at ACE years ago. I’ve used it for caulk, construction adhesive, and that tar-roof repair goo.
I wouldn’t recommend a home owner get one of the high mechanical advantage device – or high thrust – as you probably won’t use it that much and might could do with some slowing down and more feel.
might be personal preference.
that said – I will purchase one day a cordless motorized device. I’ve seen them used and I’ve borrowed one – it was a dewalt – and I want one. Hell I’d take one that had a cord on it.
Peter
I suggest Milwaukee because they use the lithium ion batteries, although that might not be a problem with DeWalts new battery adapter. That being said, the m12 by Milwaukee has more than enough power and runtime for any application I’ve needed. Also, the thread pattern on the sausage tube is the same as on my Cox gun. DeWalt uses a proprietary thread pattern.
Craig
Best I’ve ever used:
http://www.acetoolonline.com/Tajima-CNV-100SP-Caulk-Gun-p/taj-cnv-100sp.htm
Patrick
I’ve been using the new Tajima Convoy Super 26 and it’s been a dream. Expensive but nicely designed and built.
Mike aka Fazzman
I have a Malco that I love,cant remember the model off the top of my head.
Eric
I loved that plastic one until the frame cracked. Upgraded to a tajima with a similar mechanism but a steel frame. Absolutely love it. Smooth flow and the auto stop is nice for residential remodeling. Especially in finished spaces.
Jay
Newborn standard caulking gun model no. 111. Made of steel, works perfect every time and have never been able to wear one out. Fits the hand really well. Push the lever to relieve pressure on the rod and it is as dripless as any other gun. If you do enough caulking the act of depressing the lever becomes an automatic reflex.
skippy_chippy
Ive been using tajima brand caulk guns for the last 15 years, nothing else down here in oz compares. Dont think ive ever had one break.
Hayden
I am a boat builder and I use alot of urethane and epoxy they are consumables just like the gun. Cheap stamped ones are fine at work. I have a blue kobalt one at home.
sean rutledge
I love my pneumatic caulking gun. It can be a little tweaky to set up (depending on temperature, pressure, hole size, …, but it is so easy to use. My forearms are far happier.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LQN5G4/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1
Jerry
I don’t know the brand name but my favorite caulk gun was given to me by a former boss when I worked construction. Steel frame that wouldn’t flex, built in tip cutter and foil piercer, and the rear hook was sized to hang snugly on a 2X board, at an angle that made it easy to grab & use, while at the same time stayed right where you put it, without wobbling or dripping. It has a little rerelease you trip, to relieve pressure so it doesn’t drip, but also the ratchet mechanism was spring loaded so that with a little practice, you could lay a smoothe seamless bead the length of the whole tube if you wanted. Great for everything from construction adhesive, to bathtub caulking.
RKA
I have one of the dripless guns. I like that it’s lightweight, however I’ve found I don’t use the drip less feature because it requires twice as many trigger pulls to dispense. Fortunately they put a switch on the back so you can use it either way. So if you get one, make sure it has that switch. Most of the time I don’t make use of the feature.
Jeremy
Manuals we use the dripless brand, few of the cheapest entry level ones, and one of the top of the line one.
The main difference is in being able to rotate the tube carrier while caulking, important in curves and corners. The cheaper models are fixed, so if you have a angle cut tube end they don’t do well for corners.
Powered guns, the m12 with 4ah battery or m18 with the smallest battery. Both balance well, m12 can dispense faster, m18 is easier to use, better hook on the end for hanging.
Boat builders etc use what’s cheapest mostly, guns get wrecked quickly in the wrong hands. I have replaced many parts on the milwaukee ones due to users filling them with glue.
Scott
I recently bought a WorkForce caulk gun because it was cheap at Home Depot. It seemed to meet my needs and it worked fine; however, I would not recommend it. The tip cutter was useless and made a mess of the tube end. It wasn’t very smooth either.
Vaheh
Cox and Tajima caulking guns are the best. Guys rave about them all the time.
Visbert
I’m surprised more people don’t use the pneumatic ones. They are a lot lighter than the battery powered ones and far more controllable than a manual. Once you get the pressure set properly, you can lay down a perfect bead every time and no sore hands. I have one made by Cox: http://www.mcmaster.com/#76025t61. They don’t require much air, so you can use a very thin and flexible hose.
Travis C
Nobody ‘wants’ to use hoses or cords. They get in the way, snag on everything, and inadvertantly add some weight to the tool.
I am sellling my trailer compressor once I buy the Makita battery 23ga nailer.
Sergei
Unfortunately I did not try the yellow-black one that is on the picture. For me it looks a bit strange that the cartridge holder is made of plastic, not metal. Well, modern plastics are tough. Most of the comments say about more or less the same guns looking like COX 41004-XT. This is a very popular design produced under a great number of brands and names with little variations. I used it, good stuff, very solid etc. However, the very best caulk gun I’ve ever used is http://www.mk-guns.dk/uploads/pdf/gb/1k/h14rs_gb.pdf . I bought it in Europe (Norway) under “Essve” brand, but a quick search showed, that the actual producer is “MK” in Denmark. This gun is very well balanced, you can see where the handle is. It has a greater gearing ratio than most of a home-center ones making it easier to pump. I would call it both “dripless” and “non-dripless”. It has only one handle – no release lever, when you release the main handle normally, the stuff keeps flowing, when you release it abruptly, it releases the piston making it “dripless”. So, it allows for one-hand operation in most cases. When the stuff is not under pressure, you can move the piston freely both ways, not only forward as in most guns. What about being durable? It really is 🙂 . I use two of them in the Arctic (in summer only, plus 5 degrees Celsius) for several years, not from morning till night, but often in a drizzle and stainless steel rod helps a lot. Once guys behaved stupidly and the pistol froze into the ice. I found it, took the block of ice with tools 🙂 out of a cabin and left to melt in a drizzle. Came a week later, thought the pistol was dead. But, not at all , it still works as before. Of course, I bought one for myself. So, I strongly recommend this model.
Simon
I am a professional beekeeper and over the course of a year maintain several hundred hives, in my experience any bright colours such as the one pictured upsets and irritates the bees – in the worst instances causing lost time due to swarms. I’ve been stung the least using neutral tones, black etc. Consider this when caulking up a ladder in summertime near any active bee colonies. Or wait till after sundown.