The tie-down loops in my truck are inconveniently located way down inside the bed at the four corners. Plus, two of them are blocked by my truck box. Every time I have to tie something down, I think to myself that I will buy some of those stake pocket tie-downs the next time I see them… but I never do.
I have found something else that’s potentially more useful: Lee Valley has started selling tie-down anchors that clamp onto the bed rail of your truck. With these anchors you aren’t limited to the corners of the bed, you can locate them exactly where you need them anywhere along the bed rail.
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These tie-down anchors have jaws that open up to 1-3/4″ wide with a 1″ deep throat, so it should fit over most pickup bed rails. The hook will hold up to 3/4″ diameter ropes and the rated maximum load capacity is 600 lbs (presumably per anchor.)
The body of these tie-downs is made from steel plate and is coated in PVC, while the clamp screw is zinc-plated steel. The foot of the clamp pivots so that it can handle uneven surfaces.
Price: $10.50 for (2)
First Thoughts
Do you ever see something new and it breaks down a barrier in your mind? I never would have though about clamping a tie-down to my bed rail.
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So this anchor tie-down got me thinking: I don’t need to buy any special truck tie downs, I have C-clamps in my shop that seem like they would work perfectly for the same purpose. I could stow them with my rope and ratchet straps and clamp them to the bed rail any time I needed a convenient tie point. Failing that, an F-style clamp would probably work in a pinch too.
Sure these special purpose tie-downs from Lee Valley look like they’d do the job nicely, and I wouldn’t begrudge anybody purchasing them, but this just seems like one more use for the versatile C-Clamp!
Do you have any better suggestions about how to create additional tie-down anchor points? Is there any reason not to use C-clamps in the manner shown?
Nathan
I would not use the bar clamp shown in your picture because of the abiltiy for the load to pull hard enough to maybe cause the bar slider to slip down the bar. and the potential for serious torsion. (load shifts during major pot hole etc)
the c- clamp I might could get behind. – clamp tight – maybe have a rubber pad on both sides for more friction. but the c-clamp is stonger in all directions – could loop the strap though the C. etc.
Stuart
I would probably agree with that. I’ve gorilla-tightened F-style bar clamps before, only to have them shift laterally with slight pressure. They’re strong in the clamping direction, but not so much perpendicularly.
I would also agree that C-clamps might be the better way to go, in a pinch.
fred
I saw these in this morning’s email from Lee Valley
Tite-Lok – makers of truck cap mounting clamps and fishing rod holders – also make ones for tie-down.
Their models TL181 , TL182 and TL2032 fit this bill – but I’m betting that they are more costly.
http://www.centurydistributing.com/clampsforcapslids/titelokclamps.html
firefly
wow fred, that is a nice link… I have used similar tie down anchor in the past but I never heard of TiteLok. I love the selection.
Personally for my trailer I prefer the really heavy duty weld on one. I don’t know how to weld so it cost more to get somebody to weld it for me. But it really make tie down a lot easier and safer. Regardless of the route, I never go cheap on tie down… it’s just not worth having loosing your cargo on the road and potentially hurting other people as well.
Jacob Edmond
I had these when I had a camper top on my last truck. They were pretty nice, as I didn’t have any holes drilled in my rails, and it was pretty easy to remove.
Hilton
How much will 4 C-clamps cost that are at least strong enough for this task?
You’ll have to dedicate the clamps to the truck unless of course you remember to take them every time you need them. $15 seems a steal.
Matt J
But you get the excuse of buying new c clamps that will always be where your truck is. They’re definitely one of those things that it never hurts to have handy.
Tyler
It’s a really nice concept. The versatility would make it really handy. Unfortunately, it won’t work with many tonneau cover options out there. I’m seriously contemplating mounting some Airline Track (L-Track) down the sides just under the rail and along the front. Then the modular anchors allow me to position tie down points where I need. It will also allow for custom brackets for tools and lawn tools to be easily mounted and removed freeing up space on the bed floor.
pete
Look into “vertical E-track” just another option.
Tyler
Thanks, I have quite a bit of horizontal vertical e-track in my cargo trailer. The vertical stuff works great for making a lumber rack inside the trailer. The smaller footprint of the L-Track is what has me interested in it most for my pickup.
John
Ironically I just saw this page with instruction video which shows you how to do this:
http://blog.uscargocontrol.com/how-to-install-l-track-on-a-pickup-bed/
RC WARD
At 15 bucks for 4 I think I would go for the real deal and skip the hillbilly look of the C-clamps. Nice way to save some money though. #TIACREW
John Sullivan
If they were more rain-resistant, I’d probably go with C-clamps. Since clamps are likely to be a heap of rust in no time (at least in my climate) I’m going to stick with my current tie-downs, which came with my ladder rack and are pretty much the same idea as the Lee Valley ones. Also, my current tie-downs are (IMHO) less likely to grow legs and walk away than something more readily identified, like clamps.
pete
Meh, these new trucks the darn metal is thin that you’d end up bending the bed rails by using those clips. That is my current HATE!!!!!! New trucks! lol the beds are literally made of soda cans.
Mike47
Thank goodness my 1995 pickup is still in good shape. These paper-thin new trucks are the future, sadly. This is due to federally-mandated fuel standards, that result in lighter vehicles. Another spin-off of “uncontrovertable” climate change and a government of idiots hell-bent to “fix” nature. You get what you vote for.
fm2176
I simply use the lip of the bed rails to grasp the hooks of tiedowns. Though I bought a couple of the stake pocket type years ago, and use them when needed, the bed rails work perfectly. The biggest issue I have with the bed rails is keeping tension on the strap so the hook doesn’t drop down before tightening.
SteveW
Benjamen said: “The tie-down loops in my truck are inconveniently located way down inside the bed at the four corners. Plus, two of them are blocked by my truck box.”
I have the same problem with my truck, and even before putting the box on I always wished there was another set of tie downs in the middle of the bed, not just the four corners. My plan now is to get some chain and run it from the front to back on each side, that way I’ll have continuous spots to hook to. My only concern is that too much tension on the chain will cause the original tie down loops to bend and/or break, though they seem fairly strong, I don’t think it would take much sideways pull on them for this to happen.
Jon
Those hooks in the bed are “conveniently” located in STRUCTURAL parts of the truck bed (the corners).
If you think your truck bed RAILS are going to hold a static load of 600 lbs (per anchor) you are crazy and asking for trouble and possibly even breaking laws depending where you live.
Using the bed rails or “stake pockets” to attach a strap might work just fine on trucks built more than 20 years ago however.
SteveW
I never said anything about the rails. My thought was a length of chain running from the left front tie down at the lower factory location in the bed to the left rear tie down at the lower factory location in the bed. This would give me a bunch of locations along the length of chain for hooks on bungee cords and straps.
Jon
Sorry I didn’t mean to reply to you, rather to the post author.
My comment is regarding the product itself which attaches to the bed rails.
SteveW
What do you think about the chain idea? I know after about two years it would probably be a rusty mess here in the midwest.
Tyler
I’m guessing you are right. The slack will start to chip paint. You could also look into the L-Track and bolt it through the cross members in the bottom of the floor ribs.
KL
Honestly this whole thread scares me. Get some of the little silver HF bolt-on d-rings (frequently on sale $2.99 for a pair) and install into your bed (I love putting them right on top of my wheelwells). Use good fender washers and it’s every bit as strong as these bend-prone products featured. Does no engineer see that these will bend if pulled into the center of the bed???
Otherwise build some nice bed rails from angle and do weld-on tie downs. The way guys anchor cargo is just frightening.
Jerry
Granted my truck is far from new, but if you look down inside the stake pockets you will see a reinforced place to hook by. I’ve ratchet strapped dirt bikes that way for years without issue. Just be sure the tailgate is shut before you apply a lot of tension at the rear or you can squeeze the top rear corners towards each other.
john smith
Made by Lee Valley, the Tie-Down Anchors – do you still sell this item. Very interested in buying a small quantity.
Stuart
It looks like they’re still available.
Sorry – Lee Valley changed the URL, but I was able to point the “buy now” link to their new page.