When a new tool comes out, there will sometimes be a comment along the lines of why did they do that, I would have made it a little different!!?
With that in mind, I had a random idea for a discussion, and I hope you find it interesting. Let’s play Tool Designer. Step into the role of a product manager or engineer, and design a better tool than one you’ve been using.
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This discussion will only be as interesting as we all make it. So think about the question, and share your thoughts in a comment.
How would I make a better cordless drill?
Realistically, there’s not much that can be done. We’re already seeing anti-kickback mechanisms, incredible levels of power, long runtime, useful LED worklights, and things like that.
Because drills have become so good, I’m drawing a blank.
At a stretch, I would like to see… a one-handed chuck. Not just a single-sleeved ratcheting chuck, a completely one-handed chuck.
Maybe shorter tool lengths, but I know that’s a huge challenge to overcome.
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What would you like to see in your next cordless drill? If you were building the next generation drill, how would it be different from all of the many models currently available?
Dan
I think the place I’d most like to see effort and improvements is the “small drill” segment: the 4-8V drills that are very small and slide in my pocket. 20V drills provide way more than any homeowner typically needs (or at least most do, I think) and having a solid small drill would be a great complement.
Samir Leal
First of all, sorry for my English because I’am from Brazil. I think that a very simple add-on would be a bubble level at the top of the drill (for when drilling on vertical surfaces) and a circular bubble level at the back part of the drill (for when drilling horizontal surfaces).
David
Ryobi’s older drills had this, and I still grab my old blue and yellow drills for that exact feature when I need it.
Stuart
This is a feature found in some DIYer-level drills. If I recall correctly, one of my drills had a vertical and horizontal level-indicator LED even. I don’t think we’ll see these features in a professional-grade drill.
Joe
Along the same lines, I would build a track into the top of the drill to slide into a bevel gauge for more precise vertical drilling when you need it.
jtr165
completely agree. It surprises me that drills don’t have like a rail molded into the top, where you could then mount it into a simple jig…sort of functioning as a portable drill press.
Dan
That would be great
adam
On many corded drills of almost any brand, the tops of the cases are flared out. What’s the purpose of this ubiquitous design?
Biff
A universal accessory rail sounds like a great idea. Yeah sure you might get a laugh about ‘tacticool’ hand drills but I’m willing to bet there are numerous useful attachments that people would come up with.
MT_Noob
+1 for levels. Or even just a flat surface that is 90 degrees or parallel to the chuck for referencing against, or to use with jigs.
A built in magnet or other way to hold a spare bit or two beyond a cheap poorly molded bit of rubber that can’t securely hold a spare bit.
A light that stays on or can be triggered without having to spin the chuck. Multiple leds from various spots all converging so you get light on the tip no matter the circumstances.
I know some of these are available in various models and brands, but lets put them all in one.
A green LED on top indicating froward direction and a red LED on top indicating reverse… since I am always forgetting where it is set and I can’t always see it without having to hold the drill horizontally. Once I pick up the drill, it should sense movement and blink the direction (green/red) on the top of the drill, it could be done so that it has very little battery drain.
Ian Random
I love that, 2 different colors for direction on the back of the drill. I’d make the shift on top have an extra mode that is ultra slow.
BTW
You can buy level bubbles from Ebay, I’ve epoxied them onto my Dewalt since I’m not a professional.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-6-15mm-Inclinometer-Bubble-Spirit-Level-Tube-Vial-Gradienter-Measure-Tool-/221852665094
Tim
Green and red lights suck for the colorblind.
I know most everyone wouldnt think it but something like 30% of the mape population is colorblind or color impared and we continue to use green and red alternating lights to signify battery charge levels and stuff like that.
I wont buy a tool if it has a single light that switches from red to green built into its charger after years of being yelled at for not knowing when a battery is charged.
MT_Noob
Good point about color coding, I had not thought about that, a better idea would be to use leds to light up a little arrow for one direction or the other.
KokoTheTalkingApe
I agree. LEDs are cheap and minuscule.
Craig Alan Johnson Sr
I agree, I have a old sears drill that has a bubble level on top & one on the end of the drill head. The only reason I have not purchased a new drill is because I would miss the level featcher.
Jacob Edmond
I don’t see this being very likely, but I would like to see more opportunity for aftermarket accessories.
I think of the drills out there with multiple chucks now, like Festool, or AEG, and I see an opportunity for more accessories that can be powered by that drill’s motor.
Festool seems to have the most options so far, but I can’t help but watch Izzy Swan and Matthias Wandel and wonder the possibilities.
Steven
I actually like dewalts new battery format, the ability to use one battery across multiple voltage tools really perks my interest.
How awesome would it be to use say a 9.0 amp for extra run time on say 12v tools.
I suppose my “dream tool” would be single industry standard battery connection……kinda like aa batteries, so you can use any manufacturers pack…. But hey, you cant always get what you want.
Jim D
Compartmentalize all components inside the tool with clip in connections so the tool can me repaired at home with little more that the ability to put together Legos. This would eliminate the biggest argument that cordless tools don’t last as long as corded by allowing the end user to do fast, easy repairs of everything in the tool.
Or, the ac adapter for 18/20v tools that so many people have been asking for. I hear Milwaukee say over and over again how they would like to exist in a world with no more corded tools, and this would be the best way to make it happen.
Stuart
Official 18V/20V Max adapters won’t likely happen soon. But there are aftermarket adapters you might be able to use – https://14cyiuhvcgv.com/los-gatos-power-cordless-tools-ac-adapter/%3C/a%3E%3C/p%3E
Jim D
I read about the Los Gatos when you posted. That is a very interesting invention. I just like to get accessories for any of my expensive toys that are made by the original manufacturer. But hey, if the big three all sit on their hands long enough, I would buy into Los Gatos!
Kent
Add the impact mechanism to the drill functions, drill, set screwed, hammer drill and impact. In my line of commercial construction impacts are used 90% of the time, so instead of having to carry around a drill to make one hole a day is a pain. If one tool could do all of that it would be nice, but I understand from a tool development standpoint why that is hard to do.
BonPacific
Hex-shank drill bits are available. They aren’t as precise as using a drill-driver, but for rough holes, they work fine. Spade bits seem to work in an impact as well, though might be dangerous.
https://14cyiuhvcgv.com/you-can-use-an-impact-driver-to-drill-holes-but-should-you/%3C/a%3E%3C/p%3E
Kent
Oh I know they are available. But a hex shank bit for drilling out a 1/2″ hole through plate steel isn’t my idea of a good time.
BonPacific
No… no that does not sound good.
KokoTheTalkingApe
Good idea. Hammer drill functionality can already be switched in and out, but impact driver? I can’t quite imagine the mechanism that would let that happen, but tool designers are smarter than me.
DB11
Makita makes a 4-in-1 hybrid driver that has been around a few years, though it hasn’t seen much adoption:
Makita BTP140 Cordless Hybrid Impact Hammer Drill Driver
http://www.makita.ca/index2.php?event=tool&id=343&catid=2
Part of the reason might be that it’s significantly larger than their typical impacts in both length and weight.
Jeff
Bosch has one too, its quite old and really heavy! For this function it was mentioned that they dont want to use hex shanks; What do people think about a impact driver with a keyless chuck instead of HEX?
Jeff
http://www.bosch-professional.com/om/en/cordless-impact-driver-gdr-18-v-li-mf-131420-06019a1004.html
…link helps!
Andrew
hitachi make an 18v Impact drive that can do that. Has a rotation mode on it
kersley
do you have a web link or the model number?
Bremon
Honestly, it’s basic and maybe unexciting but I think the best improvement to be made to cordless drills would be to shed some weight. Many of the premium hammer drills with a 10-cell pack hanging off the end of it weight enough that it sort of an annoyance carrying them all day. If they could slow the arms race and start trying to maintain current power levels in smaller form factors I think that would be a meaningful improvement.
My move from my old 2604 Fuel to the new 2704 has shown that even a modest amount of downsizing makes the tool more ergonomic and pleasant to use.
fred
As batteries have gotten more capable and heavier – I’m surprised that no one has offered to separate the battery pack from the drill – battery pack on your tool belt/shoulder strap – and extension cord to the drill. Sort of like the really old electronic flash units professional photographers used t carry around. But maybe someone tried that and it didn’t sell well.
Farid
(forehead smack) I am sure workers that have to drive a lot screws would love this, especially working overhead. Drywall and HVAC installers come to mind.
Kurt
Yeah I could see this being offered as an accessory for standard battery tool platforms with very little risk to the manufacturer. Essentially a battery extension cord to go from the tool in your hand to the battery on your tool belt. It would also open up the market for bigger batteries that wouldn’t be feasible if attached to the tool… probably more powerful tools as well.
Jon
I did this years ago using LiPo batteries from Hobbyking. I soldered two wire leads onto an impact driver and plugged them into an 8 amp hour 5 cell battery in my tool belt pouch. This was back when 3ah was the largest packs so this was a huge boost.
Also the LiPo packs run at 18.5v under load instead of 18v and with that plus the lower internal resistance you got a big boost in power! The driver didn’t seem to mind it at all.
Downside – the LiPo pack has no plastic casing or protection circuit so you actually have to be careful with it rather than toss it around like normal batteries.
Paul
I personally would like to see an OEM dust control shield. Milwaukee made a decent one for hole cutouts but the cutting knives it came with were meh. Something that has a vacuum port. Nextec had a genius design where the batteries double downed with an LED in the battery, so every pack could be it’s own flashlight, that’d be sweet. I don’t need anything new per se, I just want a “build-a-bear” style store where you can pick any feature from any manufacturer. I’d gladly pay 350 for a gun and battery loaded how I wanted. ^-^
Mr. Creek
Make the top of the drill flat, with a glide type material so it can slide up and down against a fixed surface (poor man’s drill manual drill press).
Have a button on the drill to broadcast a light image of a protractor to approximate common angels.
Figure out a way to get rid of the oval shaped holes impact drivers make with a pilot bit, then make a drill driver, impact driver, hammer drill all in one.
Ryan
+1 for the flat reference. Such a simple way to make it more useful.
schill
Black and Decker used to make a (corded) drill that had a square body (looking from the front or back). The top and both sides were flat (if I recall correctly). It wasn’t the greatest drill in the world, but the small body and flat sides made it very convenient sometimes.
I think I still have mine in a closet somewhere. I must have purchased it in the mid 80s. It got put aside when one of the bearings went – I had every intention of replacing the bearing, but I haven’t gotten around to it yet.
Farid
1- thought controlled trigger
2- thumbprint activation with high voltage zap if mismatched
3- matching remote fetch and activation glove so that I can command it to fly into my hand from anywhere-for those cases whilst being chased by aliens.
Wait… wrong forum. I’m thinking of summer blockbuster movies.
1- One of my gripes about one of my drills is that when you let go of the trigger, the brake activates sending the chuck spinning and loosening the bit. So, perhaps there is a chuck design that you can just pull back on the collar, drop the bit in, and it automatically closes and tightens (similar to Dremel perhaps but better implementation).
2- I can see for DIY users that an AC line detection and warning system might come in handy.
3- A tether anchor point for every drill. I know most homeowners don’t work on high ladder every day, but it happens often enough, whether fixtures high up on a wall, installing a ceiling fan, or fixing a soffit or gutters on your two-story house. I’ve dropped my share of tools and a drill is heavy enough to cause serious damage or injury, even from 8 feet up. Perhaps they do now, but not all not all drills used to come with belt clips or have other anchor points.
4- A standardized and universal battery connection system , i.e can use any brand battery. Yeah I know, dream on!
5- A laser- line projection. This way you can line up a series of holes on a wall without having to use a separate tool or draw a line. Make the line self-leveling and now installing shelves becomes a cinch.
6- touch-free depth indication with display on back of drill. Put your bit in. place tip against wall and zero once. The display would continuously indicate depth while drilling for every hole.
7- A level was already mentioned, I can see professionals benefiting as well. If your job is to drill a bunch of holes for anchors and want to make sure that holes are either horizontal or vertical. Bubble level is OK and cheap. A visual LED indicator so show when you are in the zone (perhaps +/- 1 or so) would be more appealing to some. Perhaps haptic feedback system might be more useful if you want to keep your eye on the work rather than the back of the drill. Admittedly though, this is more specialized use.
Side story. This reminds me, when my house was built. Almost non of the sill plate anchors were placed correctly in the poured basement walls – either too close to the edge (some within 1/2″) or too crooked to be useful. So they had to be cutoff and new ones drilled and put in place. I was there when the installer was drilling the holes. He was a nice guy and proud of his work. He tried to make the holes as vertical as possible, claiming that allows more even pressure on the wood once the washer and nut are installed and less likely for the wood to split. I know this is not precision work and there is some leeway with the wood, but I agree with his thinking.
8- Flesh detection anyone? LOL
Mike
I make it black and yellow and stamp Dewalt on it there you have the perfect drill
mizzourob
How about a sealed wet weather drill for marine use? I think the marine market is often left out due to the water issue but this is where cordless tools are needed most.
Erik Biesemeier
There is a company that makes that, but they’re pricey.
https://nemopowertools.com/
BonPacific
Really, adding a reference face to one side of the drill. They could even sell a drilling guide, similar to edge guides for Routers. Perhaps design it like an accessory rail, and provide other specialized attachments. Brand it the “DEWALT PWR-RAIL-XR!” The marketing possibilities are endless!
In more serious terms. Milwaukee already has a small rail molded into their drills for their accessory handle to attach to. Ryobi has a magnetic screw-tray on their drill.
What kind of accessories could they add?
– Drill-guide for 90deg drilling.
– Vacuum attachment.
– Magnetic bit/screw storage tray.
– Self-pin jig
Kurt
I think your suggestion is really what would make a game changing tool– incorporate accessory rails much like AR-15’s/military weapons have. One of the biggest reasons the AR-15 has been such a successful design is that it can be endlessly customized and accessorized. If drills were treated this way as well, with a full line of standard (or proprietary) accessories it would be a totally different animal. You could buy the drill and add the extra features you wanted or needed as you needed them.
-levels
-lights
-more handle mount variety
-jigs of all types, shapes and complexities
-ability to turn your hand tool into a bench mounted tool
-etc…
Come to this it is strange power tools aren’t already like this. Firearms have been this way for a long long time.
Blythe M
Make anti-kickback standard on all top level drills. I do machinery installation and fabrication part time and there is no worse feeling than being up on a scissor lift or ladder (aka no good place to brace against) drilling through 1/4″-1/2″ steel and knowing the moment the bit breaks through the material my wrists will be broken or I’ll get a nice bruise from the battery pack.
The other is the instant stop on brushless drills. When mixing mortar on high speed and you let go of the trigger, my Milwaukee fuel comes to a jarring stop and makes an awful metallic sound. Just seems like it can’t be good for the drill
kersley
You should invest in the new Hitachi 18v.. DV18DBXL
Marvin McConoughey
That is a great array of sensible recommendations. I would add: Better-gripping chucks. Small hand drills with a higher top speed than now for pilot hole drilling. Could specialty drills be made that accept batteries plus, for extended heavy use, a 120 volt power cord?
dmtr
would need an inverter built in to manage the voltage from the wall outlet going to the DC motor
billiam
Very simple thought. I have had a Bosch cordless for a long time that has a spot to keep a combination standard/phillips bit. I see that is no longer done. Some place to hold a couple of bits would be nice.
BonPacific
I noticed the same thing, my old NiMH Makita’s had two bit slots, though they were a pain to access. None of my new drills have one, so I hot-glue a plastic bit-holder to the side.
ScubaSteve
I always liked the removable drill chuck that revealed the hex bit driver. I think that was on older Black & Decker drills…super handy if you just have a single drill and are making pilot holes before driving screws.
Dan
I agree, a great feature.
Metabo offer this in their ‘quick’ drill versions (quick referring to quick removable chuck). See BS18 Quick and BS18LTX Quick BL.
longlife
And when the chuck is removable + 43mm neck. Drill is much more versatile. ( I have a 2 different heavy duty right drill , drill stand ,
John
Two things I’ve always wanted. One to have some attachment to use it as a quick in prompt to “drill press” to endure I’m getting a straight and parallel drill into material. Yeah there are some thir party kinda works, but each drill is different and the body tend to be more about ascetics than designed to have a flat parralell section for affixing such a add on and ensuring its inline with the drill bit.
Second I would like to have some real measured speed control (rpm setting). All hand drills go to 11 it feels like and when drilling in metal for example, slow and consistent rpm is king for success. It’s odd but I’d like a significantly slower drill and one that tells me / allows me to set an exact rpm speed.
mnoswad
dont think that a cordless drill needs anymore “improvements” past what is already available. I’d say that electric clutches and anti kickback aren’t even necessary.
Proper use of the mechanical clutch is the only education that users need.
But the idea of an accurate flat surface thats parallel to the axis of the drill chuck would be a good design feature that could be molded into the plastic housing.
Chris
Biggest one for me would be ergonomics probably. Yeah they have improved ergonomics since the 9.6v makita drill, but even with some of the newer tools with over molded grips, they can still be uncomfortable after all day use. Instead of overmolded handles, id like to see a fully soft rubber grip, maybe even with a soft padded trigger? It would have to repel sweat and moisture. And be long lasting. Something that will protect from blisters. I’m always getting blisters in the area between my thumb and pointer finger from using a drill continuously.
BikerDad
A soft rubber grip won’t be durable enough. I doubt very much that they can do a lot more in the ergonomics department without going to interchangeable grips, akin to what you’ll find in the plastic pistol and 1911 realms. If they were to do this, then the makers would have to standardize on either a single connecting system across all brands, or at least a single system within their own brand/brand family.
KokoTheTalkingApe
Well, maybe soft rubber isn’t the best idea.
But I think most handles could be more ergonomically shaped. In particular, they should have more of a palm bulge to fit into the hollow above the base of the thumb, and then cut away above that. That would probably solve Chris’s problem of blisters in the thumb web. I believe some pistols are doing that now. It looks strange, because the back of the grip has a hump, but reviewers seem to like it.
Current drill handles that are straight-sided and a simple oval in cross section, just don’t cut it.
Zach
I would love to see an interchangeable chuck system like Festool has for their drills, along with the same style packaging they use with the Systainer.
Nathan
This is an interesting read.
Liking the level or rather plumb indications. I would probably build then into the frame of the tool – and it would be a digital display. IE not just a bubble in a plastic vial – but a small LCD or something display. with a zeroing command and 2 flat places on the drill body. – thus you could “re zero” the drill to something – like a wall, or a roof, or a car frame rail – then when it would show you as Perpendicular to that piece – just just perpendicular to ground.
IE like your smart phone levels that you can calibrate to a flat surface – any flat surface.
Can’t have everything in one tool – still envision multiple tools.
Cordless – would be 18V (the current common standard) based but have an adapter that allows for AC line power.
metal chuck and jaw setup with ratcheting lock (I like mine) but – chuck is QC removable into a drive shaft – that accepts an adapter that uses 1/4 drive hex. Not that the chuck has a 1/4 hex interface – this would need to be bigger for the torque demands. But there would be an add on piece that would “neck down” the drills interface to a 1/4 hex.
Chuck is a 1/2 inch minimum – but you can trade it out for a smaller 3/8 chuck using the same drive line – if you needed/wanted smaller drill bits. (thinking here that a smaller chuck holds smaller bits better)
For the sake of optimization I would still keep a hammer drill separate from a standard drill driver. just to optimize balance, weight, run time, etc. However I would strive to keep the motors the same, the chuck interface the same (if the stresses were acceptable) and thus they would be field repairable or even modular. Hammer drill motor dies – pull out your drill driver model and swap motors.
the controller on the drill will recognize the new use pattern and the motor will be run accordingly for the tool.
worklight – I like dewalt’s new thing but I like also like the bosch approach – so might do both.
I sort of like the idea of a programable setup for special functions so I might put a BT chip on board and let you use an app to program the drill for a function – like running in a sheet metal screw, or drilling cast iron – the program sets a optimal RPM, and speed profile etc etc). OR you can just leave it open and run it.
3 sp gear box seems enough – but I would also allow the program to shift gears with the program. IE it wants speed range 2 for the sheet metal screw, drill in is 1 – when you activate the program it shifts to speed range 2 on it’s own. OR it flashes the “2” indicator on the drill indicating you need to move to that range. (probably easier.)
Liking the idea of forward and reverse lights – maybe arrows on the drill – that would light up but also be the push button.
Assembled in America with parts sourced from America, Canada and Mexico – and cost 20 dollars.
no wait – pipe dream. 400.
I might give serious thought to bringing back metal bodies too.
Nathan
OH and a page from guns .
Interchangeable grip panels with differing thicknesses such as to help mold the tool to the users hand. I like the feel a a dewalt I like the feel of a milwaukee. they are good they aren’t perfect for me.
but simple trade out pieces like on my pistols at home – and presto – perfect feel.
Noah
I miss when drills had a few built in clips to hold a few extra drive bits. It was really handy when you had to switch back and forth between different bits often. Where did that go?
I also liked when Ryobi has a bubble level in the back so you knew if you were drilling straight down.
BikerDad
Interchangeable grips, akin to what you’ll find in the plastic pistol and 1911 realms. If they were to do this, the makers hopefully would standardize on either a single connecting system across all brands, or at least a single system within their own brand/brand family.
Modest little rail system, again, akin to what you’ll find in firearms with the Picatinny rail. Common across a bazillion makers and models. De facto standard.
Little USB port in the battery so you can hook up a tiny snake light, for when the light on the drill itself doesn’t do the trick.
Soft start and far more importantly, soft stop.
Anti-kickback. Every mid-grade or better 18v cordless drill should have it.
Some information ON THE DRILL about the ft/lbs or n/m or inch/lbs torque values where the clutch kicks in.
Because I work primarily in a shop environment, I don’t find the modular head/chuck idea to be all that valuable. I’d rather simply put down Drill A and pick up Drill B than have to mess with changing heads. For somebody in a field environment, or a weight/space restricted situation, a modular head may be more useful. I realize that I could have two modular headed drills set up for Task A and Task B, but then I’m spending more money on a modular feature that I don’t use.
Directionally shielded vents. Every cordless drill should have it’s vent openings oreinted and “shieled” so that when you’re drill overhead, crap doesn’t fall into your motor.
Maciek
Flat top – allows to put it “upside down” on building site. I have DCN660 which has it – it works.
Hooks/connectors on metal part of drill – it would allow adding attachment like: better/bigger light, laser cross light, push-stand for drilling perpendicular holes, large flat magnet (for storing screws or attaching (digital) level), drill-press base, mag-drill base, cable for connecting drill to harness (when working on height).
It would be nice to have battery that underside has a connector to another battery.
Nate818
Built in blue tooth speaker
adam
It’s minor, but I like the 12v Milwaukee and Ridgid drills’ belt clip location, high up on the motor casing, for hanging the drill on objects and an easy retrieval.
Andrew
I’d like a clutch that goes about 4x higher for low speed large hole saw drilling, more like the super hawg.
Roger
I’d like to see LESS new versions of drills come out every 6-10 months. Id’s rather see newer types of tools OR previous brushed tools produced to brushless class. It’s not like people are going to buy a new drill every year just because it’s 5% more powerful, weighs 4oz less than last year’s version, and it can connect it to a phone to turn down the power that it was originally bought it for in the first place. They’d rather buy a different type of drill for the purpose. eg Hammer drill vs SDS. So designing one drill that does it ALL is a bit far stretch.
Unless you can get it to recharge by itself using the RPM or magnetic induction of the motor to hybrid the tool and battery. Resulting in more runtime without a hefty battery pack. But that means less battery sales…
Again, LESS new drills. More brushless designed tools. Especially a 20V MAX brushless 7-1/4″ circular saw
mnoswad
I agree, the cordless tool industry is at a point where less innovation of current products and more variation in the kinds of tools available as cordless versions would be welcomed.
I’m very impressed with the new dewalt flexvolt tools, but i’d still rather have a well rounded out line of cordless tools……that do not have to preform exactly the same as corded…….such as the rest of the cordless nailer line up from dewalt, cordless sanders, a recip saw thats as rotationally balanced as corded ( i.e., does not vibrate your hands til numb) would be nice.
Kurt
“…LESS new drills. More brushless designed tools”
AMEN!
Ken
How about a sensor that measures your depth from the wall and a little readout so you know how deep you have drilled/screwed something. Bonus points for stopping automagically at a pre-programmed depth.
Cody
Great idea!
Jerry
Size/weight/power is all a trade off and I think manufacturers make different models to let users find the best combination for their uses, so I’ll go with a feature I’d like to see. A compact mounting system built in, along the lines of a picitinny rail, and attachments to go with it. I’m thinking things like a level, side/top handle, depth stop, light, bit holder, screw holder, etc. Make it strong enough to mount the drill in a mini drill press, and as an attachment point for sheet metal and sliding shears (so the shears won’t try to twist). Other ideas might be a right angle attachment you could mount in seconds. If the rail was on the top and sides, it could point in any of 3 directions, line it up on a rail, and snug the chuck on a hex drive, and be ready to go. Make it a standard size and distance from the axis of the chuck (hence the picatinny rail reference) and make it parallel to the chuck so things like the drill press and level would be true to the bit. There could even be two or three different specs for this (full size, compact, mini) for attachments that would be size specific. Also, there could be non-marring bumpers for delicate uses, or maybe a big enough magnet so HVAC workers could just stick it to the side of ductwork, or guys on a steel roof could set it down wherever and not have it slide off the roof (could double as aforementioned screw holder). The attachments would be universal, at least within a size, so they would fit any drill in that size platform, and when you needed a new drill, they would fit it, also. Or if not truly universal, at least universal within a family, like DeWalt, P/C, and B&D, or Ryobi, Ridgid, etc. I think this would be an easy way to modify/accessorize a drill for different users.
Ken
How about electronic control of the maximum speed?
If you could tell it what size bit you were using and what material you were drilling into, i bet you could make it select the right speed settings for optimal performance.
KokoTheTalkingApe
Here’s a crazy idea. Put the battery on a belt mount, and run a cable down your arm to the tool. That would take the weight of the battery off your wrist, and allow the drill to be more ergonomic.
I suppose the connection of cable to drill would have to be cleverly designed. It would have to be secure enough, but I think for safety’s sake, it is important to be able to drop the drill and not have it remain attached to you. So the connection should disconnect if you drop the drill.
Also, the cable should designed so it doesn’t get in your way. Maybe it could run down the sleeve of a long-sleeve shirt, or use some elastic velcro to attach it to your arm.
Nathan
Oddly I find the battery weight counters the motor weight and helps with the reaction torque. but maybe that’s just me.
KokoTheTalkingApe
Here’s an even crazier idea. Mount the drill on an exo-skeleton arm connected to a shoulder harness. The arm would be counter-sprung to support the weight of the drill. It would also absorb the torque from the drill and transfer it to your trunk, bypassing your fragile flesh-and-bone arm. Your arm would only position the drill, press the button and press the drill into the material.
It would be expensive, but it would reduce wrist and elbow injuries, which are even more expensive.
KokoTheTalkingApe
Or just have the drill attach to a fore-arm brace, taking the load off your wrist. Your shoulder and upper arm would still bear some load, but those are large muscles and joints, more durable than your wrist and hand.
Whit
Is there a gyro small enough to build into the drill that would allow it to be switched for level or plumb holes? A self leveling drill would be pretty cool.
Daniel
I would like to see the keyless chucks have a locking system built into them so they don’t loosen when you suddenly stop and then drop your bit down stairs or several flights of stairs. It’s heck on whole saws and potential worse for someone downstairs…
Henk
Hi Guys,
Stewart knows we are from Holland, Batavia is our brand name and we are a DIY-Ptool company. (and yes, we Dutch guys founded new amsterdam>NY 500years ago so you know we can create BIG things (:)
Amazing feedback, good stuff and we will look at it closely as we love this interactive and honest feedback. So, i hope to surpise the market soon. What do you think of a project we did with an Australian partner, see the movie It was a good try, and really helpfull but we lack distribution impact. this feature in combi with more of your new ideas might work. thanks! (www.batavia.eu)
kersley
I would go the Rockwell/Worx way and bring out a 18v version of their 3drill.They only release it in a 12v version but for what it is, it not a bad drill/impact driver at all. Not many drills can spin at 2’600 rpm but this little thing can..lacking power due to being a 12v, but an 18v would have being awesome.. why have a drill ,impact driver, screw driver when it can all be made as one unit?
Joe Kay
I like Jimmy DiResta’s commentary. “It’s a tool, not a sneaker!” re: design.
Chris
How about a bullpup design drill, something that moves the battery to the back, behind the motor, and puts your hand position and trigger more directly behind the bit. This would yield more leverage in a hammer drill situation, since you’re pushing more directly behind the bit, not next to it. Imagine a hammer drill in this configuration: http://milpas.cc/rifles/ZFiles/Rifles%20of/Belgium/FN/FN%20Fabrique%20Nationale%20PS-90%205.7%20x%2028mm%20caliber%20bullpup%20carbine/FN%20Fabrique%20Nationale%20PS-90%20bullpup%20carbine_files/0b012e598d511d0cf0964ed73f528cd3.jpg
James
I’d like to see better security features built into cordless batteries. Since batteries have become more expensive than the tool itself (twice as much in modern 5 ah cases), it’s become quite an investment to have 2-3 of the high capacity 18 or 20 volt batteries. I know that bluetooth was introduced but that is very limited and it’s range isn’t the solution.
On big jobs where you are spread out and you have to use a charger plugged on temporary power it would be great not to worry about anybody swiping your freshly charged $130 battery
Rick C
1. 100% USA
2. Useful LED light placement
3. AC>DC adapter for bench work
Gordon Nicol
For a very small amount, drill manufacturers could install a two axis bubble ( the kind used for levelling cameras) It could be mounted on the drill so that you could be sure that you’re drilling, not only vertically 90 degrees, but that the horizontal was level too. Even professionals could benefit from this, but DIY -ers could really use something like this. Most of the other home made guides reduce your drilling capacity or are not much use when in a confined area or for using with small pieces of timber, but this would not in any way interfere with drilling.
Stuart
I believe I’ve seen some cordless drills with bubble levels, and my old Black & Decker had an electronic level with LED indicator.
It’s a good idea, but for bigger projects a separate level is much easier to use. Built-in levels is something more found on DIY or homeowner -grade drills.