In the Fall, I started testing out Craftsman’s new premium workbench, which I thought was fantastic at the time. It’s still a fantastic workbench that’s solid, sturdy, and a pleasure to use.
When I first set it up, I put a bunch of my Festool Sortainers underneath. I left an Akro Mils storage bin cabinet and Durham sliding drawers cabinet on the floor.
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A few weeks later, I moved all of my Sortainers to the top of the bench. That wasn’t a very good idea, as there wasn’t much depth left to do any actual work.
The Akro Mils and Durham cabinets remained on the floor, and were then moved to another bench, and now I’m putting them away until I can reclaim enough benchtop space where they can be effectively used.
The bench is 24″ deep, and all of the organizers I have are about 12″ deep. 12″ is not a lot of space. It sounds like it would be enough, but it’s not.
The Craftsman workbench is fantastic for a 24″ deep bench. Given its size and strength, I sought to make this my primary do-everything bench. After all, I rearranged a lot and moved a bunch of useful cabinets and stands out of the way in order to fit this in for evaluation.
I figured that I could always move my Sortainers out of the way when I need more benchtop space. That was a good idea, but filled Sortainers aren’t exactly lightweight, and my Akro Mils and Durham cabinets – if I had left them on the benchtop – are even less portable.
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Plus, with Sortainers having flat tops, you can imagine what happened – I dumped random stuff on top of them. Safety goggles, earmuffs, gloves, battery packs, and so forth.
This past weekend I moved the Sortainers around again. I’m not terribly pleased that I had to put a bunch of them on the floor under the workbench, but that’ll have to do for a few more months or until we find a nice expanded space to move into.
That brings me to the main point. Size matters. How big should a workbench be?
I like ~48″ x ~24″ workbenches for lighter small workstation needs, and even 30″ x 20″ or so would work fine for such uses.
For a primary workbench, the Craftsman bench convinced me that 6′ is a good size. It’s long enough to support large or multiple smaller projects, and short enough that it might not dominate a workspace. It leaves room for additional equipment, workbenches, and assembly stations or whatnot.
But I’m finding that I wish the bench was deeper. Maybe wider is the right word? But you know what I mean. I think that maybe a 30″ bench would much better suit my preferences.
This is of course an argument in favor of building one’s own workbench. Going the DIY route allows for complete customization. There are arguments as to why you should considering buying a workbench – such as the lovely Craftsman one shown and discussed here – but turn-key vs. DIY is a discussion for another time.
When we move to a larger space, I think the first thing I will do is seek out a 72″ x 30″ workbench. Or maybe I’ll make my own again.
It seems that 36″ might be a tad too long. Actually, after measuring my arm’s reach to be between 24″ and 30″ depending on how I position my shoulder, a 36″ deep workbench seems a little ridiculous – unless it’s meant to be double-sided.
Yes… 72″ x 30″ is definitely where it’s at. Maybe 48″ x 30″ for smaller spaces. This would allow the bench to accommodate 12″ deep parts bins and cabinets and still provide for at least ~18″ of usable benchtop depth.
Now as for height… I still haven’t found my preference. Good thing that more and more commercial workbenches and workbench legs have adjustable heights. All of my workbenches, except for one that I just raised by adding bolt-on feet to, are about 36″ to 37″ tall.
The ideal workbench height allows me to work on something benchtop-level with elbows slightly angled downwards. I don’t have to crouch, tippy toe, or lean forward too much. 36″ is pretty standard for kitchen counters, and so it makes sense that it works well for workbenches.
What are your ideal or recommended workbench dimensions?
Hang Fire
The problem with workbenches is they become improvised storage too easily. When choosing the size you need to consider the obvious, how much space do you have and what is the physical size of the objects you will be working on, is it miniature model trains or a small block Chevy engine? But just as importantly, how have you planned your storage in/around/under the workbench… because if you haven’t planned out the storage, your bench will become improvised storage and you’ll get nothing done on the bench.
I’ve been built a hutch at the back of my deepest (30″ or more) workbench. My 24″ workbenches are extremely sturdy and handy, but a hutch is too restrictive, I need shelves above, and the ability to pull the workbench away from the shelves for the occasional large project.
Chris L
This is a very topical post since I’m planning to build my first DIY workbench this summer out of dimensional lumber and plywood. I too am finding that 37-38″ is a bit of a sweet spot, height wise. As for depth, 24″ is indeed too shallow and 30″ is at the limit. What I’m trying to keep in mind is not just whether I can reach the back of the bench without stretching, but whether I’d be able to reach higher up tools on a pegboard if that’s part of the plan. Both the bench’s height and depth factor into that based on where one’s “bending point” is below the stomach. It’d be a real pisser if I built the bench too large only to find I need a step stool to reach something mounted higher on the back wall.
Toolfreak
The Craftsman workbenches seem like a good average size, 2 feet deep and 6-8 feet wide. I’ve seen slightly smaller 5 foot wide Kobalt / Husky versions that look like a good fit for a shed or work area that’s a walk-in closet.
Really what workbench size and configuration will work best depends what work you are doing on it. Woodworkers probably like longer benches so lengths of wood can be laid flat, precision electronic work is probably better done on a small bench that’s more like a desk so you can sit in a chair. A full garage probably has a workbench that runs the length of the back wall with a shelf under that.
I’d say a workbench is “big enough” when you can store all the crap that you always have on a workbench, and still have that bit of clear space for the project you’re working on at the moment.
In an ideal world/garage, a workbench would be clear, clean space, with easy-to-access attached tools like a vise, clamps, magnifier, etc. that let you set down a project piece, do what you need to do, and move on. Somehow it never seems to work out that way.
Best way to accomplish that (the clear workbench) seems to be having more surface area/storage for all the stuff you’d keep on top of the workbench otherwise. Shelves, cabinets, cabinets with shelves, and organizers can work good for this. I’d say getting those Sortainers up off the ground on a shelf or in some cabinets above the workbench might be the best way to have easy access, without having them in the way on the work surface.
Craftsman also makes a pegboard backwall with a light for their workbenches, which also seems like a good spacesaver, even if you just cut a ~2 foot high pegboard and brace it between the top of the workbench and the bottom of the cabinets. Having the most commonly used tools within easy reach, without starting to clutter the workbench by leaving tools on it.
So, a 6 to 8 foot wide workbench is probably a good average, if you have surface area and storage solutions for everything else. Countertop height is fine, though I’d want either a desk or shorter sit-down workbench for soldering and precision work.
You get a lot more done with a BIG, heavy work table though. Build something that’s like 10 feet by 20 feet that’s strong enough to drop a car on. Now THAT’S a workbench.
Mike
My biggest complaints about benches are depth. As soon as they get much past 24″ they just start to collect crap on the back half. My against the wall work benches are all for pretty small work, mixing paint, or small lay out work. Most work gets done on assembly/work surfaces in the middle of the garage where I can get around all sides. My metal table is 4X6, and my wood table/table saw outfeed table is 5X5. I like my “benches” higher since it’s usually finner work happening there. I think they are at around 40″, wood table is at saw height which I think is around 34″. Metal table is built a bit taller and on wheels so it can actually roll over the saw and wood table. Helps a bit with storage.
BikerDad
The deeper against the wall benches collect crap in the back half because the back half is out of your comfortable work zone.
(and, because if they’re anything like my kitchen counters, that’s just what back halves do…. they collect crap. It’s an immutable part of their nature.)
Kurt
No matter what size workbench I build, I always seem to work in the same 12″ X 20″ area by the time it fills up with…stuff…
Here is a bench I built to do quick jobs in my shop. It’s shorter than the pegboard as I knew I was cutting that down to install a flammables cabinet.
http://www.wmunderway.8m.com/cgi/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1401844781
I used floor laminate from the local Habitat for Humanity store for the top, and to face the front, just to get a bit fancy.
Building a hutch over the workbench is a big help to get those tools off the surface. I would not go over 30″ deep for a wall mounted bench.
If you have the room for free standing benches, I have built two of the Norm Abram’s rolling tables and love them:
http://newyankeeworkshop.net/getproduct.php?0207
http://www.wmunderway.8m.com/board/bench/bench5.jpg
If you make it the same height as your tablesaw you have a great infeed or outfeed table. What impressed me is that they are much more stable than similar benches made of dimensional lumber, and yet so light you can move them with a couple of finders. The torsion box top is not necessary, I just used 3/4″ nominal ply with the surface cover made from kitchen counter laminate.
Stuart
I used to have above-workbench cabinetry and Gladiator rails, but haven’t put anything up on these walls yet. I anticipated being here a short time, but it’s been 3 years. This time next year that won’t be the case – I’ll hopefully have larger workspace and an easier time mounting anything anywhere. But also, I found that I don’t like having pegboard or rails at the rear of my workbench – I much prefer parts cabinets or an equipment shelf.
Your workbench looks great!
John Blair
If you do decide to make your own, consider just changing the top of your craftsman for an Ikea top.
Wider Version: A 74x42x1 1/2″ top can be ripped down to 30″. The older solid beech tops were $189 for the island width. You can also go with one of their new MDF with 9/64th of Oak wear layer on top for $219.
Standard Kitchen Version is Length: 74 x 25 5/8 x 1 1/8 ” at $129. It is actually my preferred size of bench.
Jerry
For my woodworking needs, I use a Keter folding table. When not in use, it is folded up, out of the way, and what I need it, I bring it out, and unfold my CLUTTER FREE work area. I like that I can set it up where it is needed, even outside. It is a bit on the small side, however. If they were to make one about the same depth, but maybe 3 1/2 feet wide, I’d get one in an instant.
My problem is clutter. I have a large shop, where I do farm machinery maintanence and welding, and have n all steel workbench in there that is about 5X20, built with 8 legs, and topped with 1/4″ steel plate. Sadly, I do most of my work on about a 3X5 area, which is about all the open space I have at the moment.
The Keter gives me a clutter free and (just as important) a oil and grease free woodworking bench. If anyone knows where I could get a similar table, just a bit bigger, let me know.
john
Same for me on the Keter. I have a pretty big workshop (for UK sizes!) of about 30ft x20ft, and have an infeed and outfeed bench for my panel saw but a lot of work gets done on the Keter
Caleb
I have a server rack/desk from my an old office where I used to work. I was going to scrap it but decided to repurpose it. Unfortunately I did not save the tabletop so I ended up making one out of A/C plywood. I like this because it is easy to replace if it gets banged up.
I ended up cutting down the top so that it can roll anywhere in the garage and outside (great for working on the truck or cutting/sanding/other messy stuff/enjoying the weather). It has a powerstrip built in. I still need to add a backstop and some shelves. I just have not ripped the leftover plywood for that yet. I have tape measures strips on the front and side. There are a couple of plastic electrical boxes on the side for keeping pencils, utility knives, etc.
The height is probably closer to 40″ since I am 6′ and that is comfortable, but it can be adjusted down if disassembled. The depth is a bit deep (36″?). I work hard to keep it clear, but I have a couple other benches/dresser tops that are for pilling tools/”active” projects. It doesn’t always work.
BikerDad
A 24″ deep workbench is generally fine for most DIY / Woodworking activities. That’s the CLEAR depth of the bench. It doesn’t matter if the bench is 36″, if you put some Systainers and other stuff on the back, eating up space, you no longer have a 36″ deep WORKbench, you have a combined storage and work surface.
Your solution is to build a riser the length of the bench, maybe 10″ deep. That way, you still have worksurface clear, and you can get your Sortainers off the floor.
BikerDad
btw, I’ve worked on a crappy surface on top of repurposed kitchen cabinets, depth about 30″. I had a workbench that was 36″ wide and I could walk around it, now I have a 25″ deep bench (walkaround) and my new bench I’m building will be @30″ deep. All, except for the first, are WORKsurfaces, not intended to be storage surfaces. (That’s what the kitchen table is for…) The new bench will be @9′ long also, but this is a woodworking bench, one that will allow me to work on anything I think I’m likely to work on.
For a general purpose bench though, the dimensions of the Craftsman bench are good. Until Craftsman starts including a Shop Monkey with the bench, it’s your responsibility to keep the worksurface clear of storage. A bigger bench doesn’t solve that problem, it just makes it less painful.
Tator
4×8 3/4″ ply on top of custom built cabinets with drawers built in for fasteners is what I use. I like it at 32″ high
Glenn
Work benches are like kitchen benches, they are best when the tops are left clear.
All jokes aside, I think that ergonomically, you cant beat the standard kitchen bench dimensions, they are after all, made that size for good reason……………they suit the majority of people.
Phil
In my garage I have a 17 foot long maple bench across the back made with two 9 foot long benches tied together. It’s a fantastic work surface, but the back wall is out of reach and pretty much useless. I have a pair of smaller shelves up on the wall, but they can’t be accessed without a step stool or small ladder. A third 8-foot bench in there is only 30 inches deep, and that’s where a majority of the works gets done. I have a similar sized bench in my little lab space, and I increased its usefulness by building a hutch-type shelf above it to hold the test equipment, the back of the hutch has full width power strips made from 3000-series Wiremold, along with other connection boards and power distribution for 12V power and other things. Shallower benches can benefit from a hutch or riser to give you some working depth yet still have some storage/working space above.
Jim Felt
On most of my work surfaces I’ve always managed to install a Masonite sacrificial surface with flat screws so it could be easily removed and replaced. Just use the removed one as a template.
I’ve also always drowned/flooded the top with penetrating oil for water resistance.
So far they’ve all held up for decades.
Duolux Masonite of course. Not the lighter brown soft material.
Grady
How much space do you have? What are you working on? Are you standing or sitting? Do you have to lean over to bear down on tools like a drill? How heavy are your projects? Storage? And Buy or build?
First ask yourself these questions.
Personally mine is a 60″L x 30″D x 36″H DIY half open storage and half lockable storage with a consumable top surface and weighs 200 lbs empty. Will support a fully assembled Boss 302. One tool box on the back corner with 8″ dp. Shelves on the wall behind. If I had it to do over it would be 72″ long.
JeffD
In the middle of my shop I have 2 benches forming an ‘L’ shape, both are 96″ in length, while one is 24″ wide, and the other is 36″.
The back wall has a running bench that is 24″ deep and 15′ long.
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f220/SharkinRN/Home/DSC_0638.jpg
T
…as long and wide as possible, build your own. Go vertical for storage of anything under 1sqft and 20lbs. If one needs more floor space, ditch the tool box/cab/roller and build a tool board. Lots of options and opinions, each application/need and person unique. With a home garage of limited size (no suvs or 50s lincolns), i have found over the years that vertical shallow storage and a 30″w bench that runs width of back wall has allowed a very flexible work space without sacrificing floor. I ditched my home boxes, took em to work, and converted to tool board. Bench is tall and deep enough to allow under storage of just about anything including strollers and engine blocks, lol.
Work is a diff story, a 4′ square SS roll table + 8ft steel bench + KRL1023 + 2 cman roll boxes for small parts, allow limited to acceptable surface space depending on how many projects are going on.
Ed Kirstein
How about using prefab kitchen countertops with laminate surface. Gives you a nice, flat top, off-the-shelf, cheap, variety of sizes and colors. Mount it on any bench legs or even on a sturdy cart. The back splash might be handy to keep from loosing parts off the back edge.
Stuart
IKEA used to have great real wood butcher block tops. I bought a couple for workbenches and stations. Now I have an IKEA oak benchtop on top of 80/20 legs – got it on clearance.
But, unfortunately, IKEA doesn’t carry much in the way of real wood countertops these days.
JeffD
Wait for a Sears sale. Snagged mine for $90 w/ free ship to store.
Brian
36″ might be too far to reach… but who needs to reach? you could have storage back there, or you could just have room for the work piece to fit.
Unfortunately for me, my shop defines the space for my bench
Benjamen
Size is going to depend on your shop and use, but one thing to consider for height is the height of the machines in your shop. For instance if you have a table saw you might want to make your workbench be the same height as the table saw so your bench can double as an outfeed/infeed/side support when you are cutting large sheet goods or other stock that needs additional support.
fred
You make a good point regarding intended use. Is it a workbench you want for woodworking (hand planning, chopping mortises and the like), or cabinet assembly, or a workstation for hobbies etc. I have the luxury of having a large basement (about 2400 square feet) – much of which is a shop – plus a 3 car garage that doubles as a shop. My assembly bench is low – made of plywood and construction lumber. My general duty bench is 6 foot long – has a machinist vise on one end and a pipe vise on the other. My woodworking bench is 8 feet long x 42 inch wide – the top is 3-1/2 inch thick made from hard maple 2×4’s held together with threaded rod and then flattened and drilled for bench dogs and Record/Marples holdfasts. Four vises are mounted – 2 on the ends and 2 on the long faces. It’s meant to be walked around – but would have been totally impractical in my first house which had a much smaller shop. I also have an old steel office desk in the shop – that has a Formica top on it – that I often sit at for fine work or craft/hobby tasks. I use the underneath of all but the benches for storage – clamps under the rolling assembly bench – and drawers/ shelves under the other 2 benches.
derpson
I can roughly picture the threaded rod bench setup, but could you go into some detail on it? I’m considering doing the same with basic construction grade lumber.
Chad
Work bench size should be based upon the type of projects you do. For me, this includes cabinets and casework so my bench is 30″ x 60″. I’ve also found I prefer to have my workbench away from the wall so to allow access to all four sides. This lets me have a backbench behind it that is 18″ deep along the wall where I store my tools. Having a back bench keeps the main bench clutter free.
Secondary to size is weight. My benchtop and base weigh around five hundred pounds. The top is stiff and thick so you can pound away. Its also stable so there is absolutely no movement when sawing or applying massive torque with clamps or whatnot.
Josh
I’m working in a very limited space, and I’m currently building a rolling 48″ by 20″ workbench. It’s wide enough to do a variety of things on top of, and the base will hold l-Boxxes (either in drawers, on shelves, or just stacked).
Norbert
Some decades back an older friend had an interesting bench – 72″ long X 30″ deep, maple butcher block top, with 3 pieces of square tubing attached to the underside. A 20″ deep X 72″ long matching butcher block top also had square tubing underneath. The extension top attached to the main top by the under-tubes on the extension sliding into the under-tubes on the main top, giving him a temporary extra large work surface for large plywood projects.
Josh
I have always wanted to get a real workbench, but for the last few years my work space has really just been 2 sawhorses with an old interior door across them. I’m not too sure on the exact dimensions, I would guess 6’x30″ give or take.
What I really like about my current setup is the overhang on the front of the bench. The saw horses don’t get in the way, they are a bit farther back, so I don’t kick the thing very often.
Nathan
Depends what you’re doing. Doesn’t seem like most folks are mentioning woodworking. If you’re doing hand work, a very wide bench is great, and you can happily have an 8′ wide bench if your space allows it and you can afford to build it at that length to where it is very stout and won’t rack under heavy hand planing or sawing.
But even if you have 8′ of width available, I cannot fathom wanting a bench more than 24″ deep. And even then, 18″ to 20″ is a bit more of a sweet spot. This allows you quick and easy access to clamp all over the bench, It allows you to always reach the far side of your work, even if your bench is up against the wall (it probably is — see the comment about racking earlier) and you cannot walk to the other side. A bench deeper than that means you cannot reach the full depth easily, which makes clamping across the depth a bitch. It also means you have negative space that clutter can pile up on, which inevitably means those disorganized tools, fasteners, scraps, whatever will end up under your nice work piece and scar the thing up right as you’re almost done with your smoothing…