“Hmm, maybe I should work on clearing more of the tree branches today,” I thought. 3 hours later, I’m not done, but I’m done for today. Shown here is what I worked on during the second half of the session.
I don’t know when the first branch/twig/leaves collection day of the season is, but we’re expected to get more snow tomorrow, so I figured it’d be good to do some cleaning and clearing.
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In the back, I started by removing smaller branches, and bundling them up. Then I tied the larger branches together in bundles. Larger limbs were cleaned up as much as possible, and then I moved them to the front.
At the front, where there were large limbs downed from the big storm earlier in the month, I removed all the smaller twigs, cutting them up and filling a garbage bin. Limbs thicker than my thumb were left in three to four foot sections. Anything thicker than my arm was cut down into what I’d consider manageable pieces.
There’s one branch section that’s on the heavy size, but it’s too short to cut safely.
Following are the tools I used today. What tools would you have used for this kind of work?
I wrote about Stanley FatMax pruning shears previously, and put them to the task today.
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The pivot screw kept loosening, leading to jamming and a widening gap. I might need to take the tool apart to give it a good cleaning. Maybe I’ll add some blue Loctite to the screw.
I seem to have hurt my hand a little – that’s not good. But I also did use the pruning shears on branches a little too large for it.
I also used Fiskars Power-Lever lopper, shears with extending handles. The handles on one arm kept shortening itself, and there’s no obvious way to tighten up the lock. But it got the job done.
These aren’t the easiest to use with the handles extended, as they spread really far apart. But it got the job done, cutting the larger branches down more manageable sizes.
The Dewalt FlexVolt reciprocating saw has been my go-to for cutting up the larger branches, and it’s been a breeze to use.
I’ve been using Diablo 9″ pruning reciprocating saw blades, with reasonably good results. I mangled the first blade in the first 5 minutes during my last branch-clearing session, when I cut down the large ones that fell on the road, but the second blade is still going strong.
I saw the new Diablo carbide pruning saw blade at my last visit to Home Depot. I might consider it when I run out of my non-carbide 5-pack of blades. But seeing as how I quickly ruined my first blade, I might just buy more of those.
My Diablo blades are 5 for $15 on Amazon. The Diablo carbide blades are $9 each, or $24 for a 3-pack.
I also used Milwaukee work gloves, released in 2016. They got wet after a while, and I couldn’t find any other work gloves in the garage. How does that happen? The same way it took me 5 minutes to find some ear muffs when I was ready to do some power sawing. I really need a dedicated drawer, cabinet, or shelf for safety gear.
So for those of you that have to deal with downed branches, or if you prune your own trees (or others’), how do you make them more manageable for collection or processing?
Side question: Do you think it’s worth it to dry the one or two largest tree limbs for use in a small project?
Update: Here’s what I still need to clean up:
I only cut them down enough to pull them out of the street.
Bill
I think under your scenario, and I’ve been there, I would rather deal with one tool that can do most if not all of the tasks presented by downed limbs, large and small. I would reach for my Dewalt 60V Max chainsaw. With the limbs laying on the ground you can walk up and down the length lobbing off the smaller branches as you go, move them to a pile and then cut the remaining larger limb into sections right where it is.
Stuart
I didn’t have a chainsaw immediately available, but even if I did, it would have been widely inappropriate for a lot of the work I had to do.
The majority of the work was dealing with twig-sized branches that had to be cut. Some could be snapped by hand, others were too flexible.
I have a hatchet and other cutting tools, but I preferred to cut and collect rather than to let the branches fall to the ground. There were too many.
I did consider whether a chainsaw would have been a better choice on the larger limbs, but most of the cuts I made were on 2″ to 4″ branches. I only had to make a handful of cuts on the larger stuff, since I had cut them down to size after they fell to clear the road.
The biggest annoyance was in getting the smaller branches/twigs off the finger-sized branches. There’s more to do, but I gave up and left them in a huge pile for either later today or some other time.
I’ll add a photo showing what I still need to do.
A wood chipper would be ideal, and save a huge amount of time, but I’m not about to buy one.
fred
Compound action loppers can help a bit with the need to spread the handles so far apart that only Paul Bunyon can use them:
https://www.amazon.com/Tabor-Tools-GG12-Compound-Professional/dp/B01E5NQ2U4/
Kurt
When I moved into my house, the backyard was overgrown, so I bought a used chipper off of Craigslist. Used it for several seasons until everything was manageable, and then sold it for 100 dollars less than I paid for it.
If you are in a similar situation, it may be an option.
Blythe
A wood chipper is a perfect item for rental use. You can cut down limbs right from the trunk (or as large as you want to drag) and save yourself all the little work. Cut everything that you need to clear before you rent, drag to a general location and then go get your rental the next day. Most rental places give the option for a hourly or half day rental, which you should be able to do if you’re ready ahead of time. This way you can use a heavy duty tow behind model for very cheap.
Otherwise, if you’re allowed to, cut them big as you can handle and have a bonfire
Jehremy
I recently cleared some large diameter branches that have been down at the back of my yard for a year or so. I used Makita’s sub-compact recip saw (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JLVT3CE) and a 6″ wood-only bi-metal Makita blade; I don’t recall the TPI but it was the most aggressive blade I had at the time (I have some Bosch 5-TPI pruning blades on the way; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FAPPAA/). Despite the not-quite-optimal blade the sub-compact handled the chore like a champ over ~50 cuts between 2″-5″ diameter branches before I ran out of light. I have quite a bit more work to do back there including a ~12″ diameter log. I’m going to see if the Bosch blades linked above can handle it before having to go with a chainsaw.
I also just received some cheap-o loppers (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X1J1TV1/)for some light-duty thorn bush clearing work. I’ll try to put those to use this weekend weather-permitting. I’m in the market for some new pruning shears; sounds like I need to steer clear of the fatmax model you used.
Craig
Definitely would have been a chainsaw and possibly a lopper for me. I just cut all the smaller branches off and pile them as high on a tarp as i can, drag them to final destination and cut them smaller there with lopper. The large ones I cut down to whatever i can carry myself or fit in wheelbarrow. Unfortunately I only have a 42cc Poulan that I paid $80 for remanufactured and delivered. It does the job at least.
Dale
Well, to extend the scale a bit:
I’m a huge fan of my Stihl HT-133 “chainsaw on a pole” for post-storm cleanup and brushing out tree tops.
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/pole-pruners/professional-pole-pruners/ht133/
Saves a long of up and down on the knees and bending over.
Pros: Fast, effective, saves a lot of back-breaking effort. Reduces the risk of cutting your own feet. Far less bending over. Much faster to “recharge” than “cordless” tools. Often eliminates the need for using a chainsaw while up a ladder.
Cons: Expensive, requires due care and PPE (as all power tools)
As for drying:
Yes, then burn in the wood stove.
Smaller than and inch or so goes into the chipper.
Kenneth Stephens
I’ve got an older ht131 and I’d keep it over any of my saws if I had to choose.
Matt
I use Felco F-7 shears to prune the smaller stuff in my gardens. The rotating handle really saves the wrist on a long day but takes a bit to get used to. They are especially great on live plants but do fine on dead wood too. I use Fiskars Powergear 2 loppers for bigger material, at least until I somehow bent the blade edge over. I also have a Silky Big Boy 2000 that can handle just about anything. If I can only bring one tool for cleanup that is it. If I really have a lot of heavy stuff to do I use an Ego 56V 14″ chainsaw that has worked great so far. I aspire to purchase a Silky Hayate pole saw one day for trimming my large trees. My brother is a horticulturist at a well known public garden and highly recommends them. I am also probably going to purchase one of the Fiskars X7 hatchets for the odd cleanup that requires chopping something.
As far as drying the wood I think it is kind of dependent on your needs. If you have covered space to dry the wood for months then maybe it could be worth it. I personally am crunched for time for than anything else so I would get something off the shelf to finish quickly. Things I save to start later have a remarkable tendency to sit unused for years.
IJK
Have a set of Felco shears as well. I regret not buying them sooner. They are AMAZING! And same as you, I also have a set of power gear bypass loppers I use. Along with a ratcheting anvil lopper. Broke the blade on the anvil loppers once, fiskars sent me a replacement blade by the end of the week, no cost. For the larger stuff, or when in lazy mode, I use the compact dewalt reciprocating saw. Balanced well enough I can use it one handed. It now pretty much lives next to my firewood/brush storage in the house.
Yadda
+1 on Felco pruners. I have Felco 6, 7 and 8 pruners. All of them are fantastic.
Derek
After that same storm you had, I convinced my 3 year old to run around and throw the small twigs into our firepit and then we lit a fire. She kept wanting to make the fire bigger and was dragging over some fairly large limbs. Worked out great!
Nathan L
If you can find the right incentive, that’s the right tool for so many things!
Scott
My tree pruning arsenal is similar to yours. I have Fiskars hand shears for twigs and the same Fiskars loppers that you have for larger stuff. I like the Fiskars, but have the same issue you have – I wish you didn’t have to open the handles so wide to get around branches. Although, in fairness, I do tend to use them on branches larger than I should.
For larger branches, I get out the RIdgid 18V reciprocating saw. A chainsaw would make quicker work of it, but I only have to do that kind of thing once every few years, so it isn’t worth it for me to get a chainsaw.
Scott K
I have a Fiskars lopper and bow saw that both work well. I would definitely use a chainsaw or recip if I had either.
The yeti
12v Bosch recip. 18v Bosch recip. Small ryobi gas chainsaw. Thats all i got for pruning so far.
Brian A
M18 Hackzall with a skil or diablo 5 tpi pruning blade is my goto tool for cutting up to 2″ limbs from trees.
Derek M
My goto for cleanup: a LandPride grapple on a 25HP tractor! https://www.landpride.com/products/592/sgc0548-claw-grapples
🙂
Really makes cleanup a snap!
Bill
Kind of gimmicky, but I have had good luck with the Worx Jaw Saw. Whatever you can corral in the jaws and pin to the ground gets cut, no matter the size. Just keep the tiny chain sharp and oiled and it’s good.
Chris
For medium duty pruning and clearing brush, I really love using a recip saw with Diablos Carbide teeth pruning blade.
I would like to have the 20v max chainsaw, but I don’t cut a lot, just the occasional branch which the sawzall excels at.
Side note: at work, I trimmed willow trees with a pole saw and shaped a shrub with a weed whacker. That was. Interesting. After quitting they finally bought a hedge trimmer attachment for the stihl powerhead. Oh well.
Jeff @ Tool Box Buzz
Chainsaw and bonfire are my cleanup “tools” of choice. Get a good hot fire going on dry wood and then run around the yard with the chainsaw separating firewood from branches/twigs. Firewood gets piled up, branches/twigs get burnt up on the fire. Even leafed out branches burn just fine in a hot fire.
fred
Open bonfires are not permitted in all locales. My Town and Village both have ordinances against open burning regardless of your property size (1/4 acre or 40 acres it doesn’t matter) – based on safety and air pollution concerns. I could keep horses (if I had a barn) – but not burn leaves.
fred
My wife is the gardener in my house. She has a number of certificates and ISA credentials. Her choice of pruning tool brands include Felco, Tabor and ARS for pruners, and Silky for pruning saws. You can do a lot of small branch cleanup – without power tools. A good pair of long-handled loppers can do a lot of cleanup work without resorting to power tools.
Nathan L
I’ve been the family IT guy and family horticulturist in enough different climates and scenarios that I’ve done this kind of thing with a lot of different tools, but never with access to any kind of power tool except a gas chainsaw and that’s almost never an option I’ll take. I usually use lopped and a bow because that’s what I grew up with but I had a pair of ratcheting shears last time that was pretty nice. Depending on the size of the property I sometimes make a hügelculture style compost mounds with the fine branches but they obviously depends on what you’re doing with the space.
I’m looking forward to using a cordless recip saw next time around if at all possible but I imagine it will eat a lot of blades with how often the ground gets in the way.
Nathan L
*loppers and a bow saw and RIP and many lamentations swype
John
I have a pair of 32″ heavy-duty Corona loppers that work really well. The fiberglass handles and foam grips are easy on the hands and arms. It can bite thru some pretty thick branches without a fuss. We recently felled two large ash trees and the loppers made quick work of the cutoffs.
ktash
+1 for the Corona loppers. Also, the Felco shears that others have mentioned. I got a Small Poulan electric chainsaw, for very occasional use. That way I don’t have to deal with getting gasoline, etc, since I don’t use any other gasoline powered tools. The small size makes it easy for repetitive use and is more maneuverable.
Another option, if you have deer, is to pile brush around areas where you don’t want them to go. Make them wide rather than high. Deer will avoid stepping in brush piles, but can jump over narrow ones. It will compost after a while. But that’s mainly if you have some acreage in the country.
If you are hurting your hands/wrists on doing this, it’s worth renting a chipper.
Ryan Jacob
I recently cut back some Crepe Myrtles using my Ryobi reciprocating saw with some Lennox pruning blades. It was the first time I ever used a rec. saw for this purpose but it worked pretty well. I just didn’t feel like hauling out my Husqvarna chain saw which needs a new chain anyway. I also have an Echo PAS-266 with a pole saw attachment that I use for getting large branches or branches out of my reach with a chain saw.
MacLean
I’ve been clearing 17 acres of brush for three years…we bought property and built a house.
I recently purchased a Makita XCU01Z…a 4 1/2″ electric chainsaw that works with my current battery ecosystem. It’s easy to use one handed and with a 4 amp battery I can get two hours of heavy cutting.
The key to productivity is one handed operation…one hand for the cutting tool…other hand for feeding it into the slash fire or chipper. Loppers take two hands. The clippers can only cut an inch or so and cause a lot of fatigue… especially for larger piles.
My other equipment…a Kubota BX25D tractor and a Lands Pride grapple…a Woods brand PTO chipper and a Husky chainsaw.
I’ve got pictures if you want an article!
Nathan
Yeah my neighbors think I’m nuts but I roll recip too. I don’t have pruning blades but might invest in some. I use Demo blades – current favorite – 9 inch Lennox. I think it’s 9 inch. Much longer it gets in the way (I have a 12) – much shorter it won’t reach into big bushes.
In smaller can’t reach areas I’ve taken to use my OMT and a wood blade.
ALways with the bow saw as sometimes you just have to do it by hand.
I need to get the pole saw attachment for my ECHO PAS trimmer – which is cordless.
RKA
Get the pruning blade, huge difference with green wood.
JoeM
I haven’t had the chance to do any pruning or branch cleanup in a few years, the last time was because my Dad had a back yard and needed help. I live in an Apartment, so there’s a superintendent to do this job for the property we’re on, so I’m not needed for it.
But, I found my DeWALT DCS380 Reciprocating Saw, with a Lee Valley Pruning Blade, to be the most effective for when I was helping my Dad do the cleanup. There were some DeWALT Demo Blades and a house-brand (Mastercraft from Canadian Tire) Pruning blade tried as well, because the saw was relatively new and I wanted to try putting it through its paces. But the Lee Valley blade really won the battle, so to speak. Dead wood, or green. Didn’t matter. Handled itself the best of all the blades that I used.
And, to be perfectly honest, I bought the Lee Valley blade days before this cleanup took place, because I didn’t actually buy my reciprocating saw for pruning purposes. But, when your elderly father asks you to clean up after a tree gets shredded in a storm, you don’t say “I’m sorry, Dad, but I don’t have the right tools for the job.” You buy the right blade, and you go to town on dead branches in his back yard.
I still have the blades I used, but I haven’t used them since that day, several years ago now. I’ve asked my super if they want my help during pruning season a few times, but they’ve always said no. So, they’re kinda just sitting there now.
Mick
If you’re looking for another project…like a fairly new homeowner with very young family needs another project! Grab and old worn out nickelson file, anneal it, heat it to bend it and grind yourself a bent knife. Run through the steps of rough to fine on the belt sander. Heat to harden, temper it, strop it to a razor edge, grab some green wood from one of the branches and carve out some wooden spoons.
I usually run the small stuff through my chipper shredder. Anything large goes out along the road. Someone that heats with wood snatches it up.
Koko The Talking Ape
I am not super-experienced with yard work, but I have done some trail clearing as a volunteer. I would add a Silky pull saw to the mix of tools. They are light and easy to use, and much easier on the elbows than a lopper. The stroke need only be a few inches, so you get surprising reach with them.
Koko The Talking Ape
And I haven’t used them myself, but my friend swears by her Felco pruners with a rotating handle. It looks like the rotating handle gives a kind of cam action that increases cutting force (or reduces the hand strength required.) Felcos are great, but expensive. I think there are other pruner brands out there with rotating handles.
OM
I have a set of 3 pairs of loppers manufactured by H.K. Porter, known for their bolt cutters, unknown vintage, but passed down from my great grandfather who had a small patch of Christmas trees in Michigan. They are my go-to unless I really need a chainsaw. The big ones will cut green wood the size of my wrist with little effort for a grown man.
I wish they would make them again. I would be willing to pay real $$$ for a new set of the same quality so I could better preserve my family heirlooms.
I also have a set of pruning saws and pole saws made by a company called J.B. Berger (no relation to the survey equipment) that I picked up at EXPO in Louisville around 2007. They are quite well built and have held up very well for me as a homeowner who has been known to help friends and family quite often. Sadly, J.B. Berger appears to have gone out of business in the intervening years.
For anything bigger I reach for my Stihl MS200 rear handle configuration saw, 14″ bar, 6.5lbs, greatest piece of gas powered equipment that I own. However, I don’t use it very often and sporadic use leads to there being an issue nearly every time I need it.
Got to play with the brushless Makita 18v x2 chainsaw at Mother Earth News Fair PA last fall and was thoroughly impressed compared to my MS200. I would like to compare side-by-side with the Flexvolt 60v chainsaw because I might consider switching to electric and keep the MS200 as a backup.
Joe Smith
I have a couple of pruning saws/shears a pole saw and a repricicrating saw. I had an electric chainsaw that I used for larger stuff but it died a while back and I haven’t had a need to replace it. A recip saw with a pruning blade gets the job done well enough. I don’t have any large trees on my property as its fairly new construction and all of the trees are young.
RKA
First choice, hand tools if it’s reasonable.
Twigs – snap by hand if it’s dry or felco hand pruner.
Up to 1” twigs – fiskars loppers like you pictured.
1”-3” branches – silky pruning saw. Depending on the wood, a 3” branch is severed in as few as 3 strokes.
Beyond that I get power tools.
Hackzall and pruning blade for quick jobs
Stihl chainsaw for anything more serious. The weight and strapping on all the PPE gear make this a last resort.
Joe Hanson
I use a chopping block and modified Tramontina machete for thin stuff. I’ll also use an small hatchet for stuff too thick for a machete. Then I’ll use a 32 inch 3.5 pound Jersey style axe for the thick stuff. Properly sharp and profiled tools, good steel, and with experience, this work goes fast. Most hardware stores don’t sell even a half decent axe. Don’t forget the firepit and steaks. Good times.
Bolt
I burn my brush so the really small stuff only gets carried to the burn pile. Loppers do most of the real work clearing brambles, poison ivy and saplings. A cheap corona folding saw is up next and it can do a lot of work.
The sawzall is mainly for stuff on he fence line where nothing else can reach well so I go with the cheapest pruning blades I can find since they’ll most likely get bent or run over rocks and wire before they’d dull from cutting wood.
Chainsaws take the really big stuff with the little 18v ryobi doing more work since my gas saw is constantly breaking down. It’s amazing what you can cut with that tiny thing if you’ve got the time and a lot of extra batteries.
I am thinking of getting a one man crosscut saw or a silky katanaboy to keep in my truck so I can scavenge wood for turning no matter where I am.
A W
The Diablo carbide blade works really nice for light/medium duty pruning.
For light stuff, I’ll use a lopper or break it by hand if dry.
For medium pruning I like to use a hackzall. It’s slower but I can easily hold onto the branch.
firefly
If burning is an option that would be my first choice for small/medium twigs. Nothing like having a small bonfire in a breezy night…
I have two Fiskar Power Gear Loopers, one large (32″ I believe”) and a medium (15″ I believe). Those were my go to tools for clearing small/medium twigs. The large looper make easy work of branches that are 1″-2″ in diameter. Nowadays I have a guy that does my yard work but I still find use for them at time.
I think something like the JawSaw or the Aligator Lopper Saw would be a great option for anything that doesn’t require a chainsaw.
Jeremiah
Currently i use my fiskars loppers, I think powergear, with 24″ or 30″ handles. I really like them for up to about 1 -1/4″. Also like the reach vs loppers for less bending and less scratches from the branches.
last fall I used my m12 fuel hackzall with the Diablo carbide pruning blade for bigger stuff. I really like holding or stabilizing the branch in one hand while cutting with other. I’ve got a scar from using a bow saw as a kid that reminds me not to hold too close to saw.
I had the original m12 hackzall for a while and was disappointed at the size of the fuel one when I received it. If I had it to do over i would get the m18 fuel for the slightly bigger size but longer stroke(+1/4″ i think)
JS
While I have a complement of regular power tools to include Stihl saws, an assortment of Diablo blades for my DeWalt 18V saw, and some lopping pruners, my quick go to saw for trimming and pruning is a Samurai Ichiban pruning saw. It is amazing how easily it saws through small branches. I even keep one in my truck for camping trips, it can even make short work of smaller trees that may be blocking a trail.
Patrick
While they are a bit battery hungry, I’m amazed at how well the Bosch and Milwaukee 12v Hackzall tools are with a good pruning blade. I like them way better than a 18v reciprocating saw because of how easy they handle with one hand. I haven’t tried a 18v Hackzall, but I also haven’t found any reason to. Last summer I took out multiple juniper shrubs (and roots) in record time with a few a few 2.0 ah batteries and a fresh blade on my Bosch 12v. I bet a brushless version would be better on a battery.
Paul
Loppers, yes, but a Silky hand saw makes all the difference for my branch cleanup. I use a Sugoi and I’ll never have to worry about batteries. Very easy to use one handed – and comes with a multimount sheath.
A close second are my stihl farm boss and a 19″ axe. These 4 tools allow me to tackle about any limbing/cleanup project.
I swear by wells Lamont leather gloves work the red ball.
fred
My wife uses her Silky 390-36 (Sugoi) for cleanup – but I usually get the job of on-tree pruning with “her” Silky 372-42 (Hayate) pole saw.
RKA
How easy is the Hayate on 2” branches 10-15 ft up? I recently got one but haven’t used it to prune the trees by the side of the house yet?
fred
Our Hayate has their optional hook (425-01) installed. Overall its a pretty heavy tool. The saw hooks over a branch easy enough and you can do a 3-cut prune. #1 should be a partial under-branch cut 16 inches out from the collar, #2 a top through cut 18 inches out from the collar, #3 a final through cut the stub of the branch that left – close to the collar. Let the saw do the work on the pull stroke. If you have a lot of branches to do – your arms and upper body will get a workout. At 5′ 10″ my septuagenarian body can still control it. At 5′ 2″ my wife can’t handle it fully (3 extensions all out) extended – but she can spot me.
RKA
Thanks, that’s helpful! Thankfully it’s not too many at a time. I might need to look into that hook. I’m not fond of adding a half pound to the business end, so we will see how it goes in a few weeks.
Brian
Fuel m12 Hackzall and diablo pruning blade, leaves you with an extra hand and will go through anything.
Chris
I live in Mass and we’ve been hit hard. I have 3 or 4 good size trees down around our property. Late last year I invested in a Salsco model 600 PTO (up to 4″ capacity) with a minimum 8 hp required at the PTO chipper for my Kubota B1700 tractor. This tractor has 17 hp and 14 hp at PTO and when I used it in the fall worked really awesome. The big pieces will be cut up and used for firewood and everything else will be chipped up and used for mulch/compose. Another snow storm today!!!
fred
Yes indeed – another nor’easter starting here too. I guess its better than mudslides.
I’ve moved the cars around to the side of the garage – so the plow-guys can do my driveway – and the guys who do my lawns – will likely get another job cleaning up.
We were lucky – the last storms didn’t take my trees down
Chris
We just moved to our new house over a year ago and I’ve been wanted to take down a few of these older weak trees. Mother nature is taking it’s course. Luckily they are all away from the house.
dar
‘Mother nature is taking it’s course.’ or not: Nor’easter No. 4 And Rainwater Analysis MARCH 23, 2018 By Catherine J. Frompovich https://www.activistpost.com/2018/03/fickle-mother-nature-determined-weather-geoengineering-noreaster-no-4-rainwater-analysis.html
Stuart
Don’t believe everything you read on the internet.
dar
good on ya, Stuart… 50+ yrs of cited US gov hacking weather control patents are meaningless…Catherine J. Frompovich, respected researcher&author knows not whereof she speaks…ditto for Elana Freeland’s ,’Under an Ionized Sky: From Chemtrails to Space Fence Lockdown’ https://www.amazon.com/Under-Ionized-Sky-Chemtrails-Lockdown-ebook/dp/B079LZWDTH/
and Dane Wigington’s mega site at: http://www.geoengineeringwatch.org/ Eyes wide shut, alas. BTW, this ret auto mechanic, with tiny girlie wrists, has cut tons of tree limbs/trunks using an ancient bowsaw.
Stuart
I’m up for dialogue, perhaps not here. I’m sorry, but that article you linked to reads like an opinion piece that lacks any of the necessary parts to make it anything else.
charles
stihl 16″ chainsaw.
Garrick
Besides long lopers, and the cordless (no way I want wires around) recip saw, I also use a cordless circular saw. The circ saw is much faster than the recip saw where ever I can get at the branches with it. Gloves are of course mandatory to keep my hands reasonably soft.
BTW, I also use the recip saw to trim the grass edges over-growing the driveway and sidewalk. I just use any old blade and run it along the concrete edge as my guide. It take about 2 minutes to do 50 feet, and except for the odd bump of concrete pour spillage, it leaves a very straight edge. I use the run of grass cutoffs to trim garden edges that have worn away, or wherever I need some sod.
Ren
Would be a billhook. Don’t seem to be common over in the US. There are many patterns/designs. My go to is a double handed Yorkshire billhook.
http://woodsmithexperience.co.uk/shop/product/morris-yorkshire-billhook/
fred
I recall seeing some Fiskars – short-handled one in the past at either Lowes or Home Depot. Not recently – probably did not sell well
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dlawngarden&field-keywords=B019EXCSBW+
Stuart
Could it have been this one – https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-13-Clearing-Hook-385061-1002/dp/B01B8098CQ ?
I bought the 13″ clearing hook last season, and it was useful for taming a small tree that pushes into garage door and front walkway space.
I might have seen the large billhook, but I definitely saw the combination hatchet clearing tool, but the 13″ multi-functional hook seemed better for my needs. I later bought a 14″ hatchet, but haven’t used it much yet. I brought it with me when I needed to clear large tree branches, but ended up not using it.
Ren
For clearing ground of bramble and the like, the go to is a double edge Irish slasher. Basically same design as the Yorkshire above, but with a ~36″ handle. So saves the back.
http://bulldoghandtools.co.uk/bulldog-cutting-tools/farming-cutting-tools/premier-irish-slasher-3410.html
jsb
For small twigs, etc, 1/2 in or less I use an 18V Ryobi hedge trimmer to remove them from larger branches and trim into small enough pieces to bag or bundle. Fastest way I’ve found so far. For larger branches the one handed Craftsman C3 recip saw with a carbide blade. Too much sand and gravel here for non carbide blades to last. Also a cordless circular saw when it’s safe to do so. I also use a Fiskar lopper, and a pole saw.
Many of our trees and shrubs have thorns which makes hand trimming more of an adventure. Leather gloves a must. It’s surprising how sharp and strong a 2″ Hawthorn needle can be. Steel shank shoes for next season.
K2
Among other tools, I really like these Florian loppers. Great too, USA made, have lasted for years.
https://www.floriantools.com/product-page/maxi-lopper-back-ordered-until-mid-march
Josh
I just wait for the dead wood to fall. My trees are too tall for me to trim them myself. Usually, they are pretty tried out by then, so anything a quarter-sized or smaller I can usually just snap off in my hands. Anything that I can’t break, I use a Milwaukee M12 recip saw. I like that it’s one-handed operation, so I can use the other hand to hold the branch. With all the storms though lately, I have been thinking about getting a grabber to save my back from the repetitive picking up of sticks.
fred
Yep – I leave the high stuff to the professionals. Gone are the days (they never really existed for me) that I’d contemplate putting on a climbing belt and set of spikes. But, close into the hose we have mostly ornamentals – so the pole saw and/or an orchard ladder gets me access to things like crossing branches and dead wood.
Ken
I was on the streets homeless for three years immediately prior to buying my house. Upon moving in, I literally had only the clothes on my back. The almost acre with the house had been left to grow for at least ten years except for a narrow band around the house and that was uncut for the two years the property had been vacant.
It took a little over a year to clear the property using only a Porter Cable 20V Max Reciprocating Saw with many pruner blades and a TroyBilt TB240 push mower. I removed any tree that was 6 inches in diameter or less. Most of the weeds and brush were over ten feet high that were cut down and collected into 7 large piles that were burnt over that year and some. Rather sad to say, but neither the saw or the mower made it past the two year mark.
Now to maintain the yard, I use the Black & Decker 20 Volt Max Pole Saw and Hedge Trimmer along with a burn barrel. The hedge trimmer is used to maintain the growth of the almost vertical bank of the creek that is the south line of the property. Going to get another mower next month.
Ed S
Stihl pole pruner, manual pole pruner *ugh, Fiskar loppers, and Husq 20″ (though I might get a 12″ cordless chainsaw after using a neighbor’s Stihl cordless 14″ chainsaw…greenpower polesaw I have is junk…)
Ed S
PS…I also have a 2-3″ EchoBear chipper/mulcher …that takes care of the lil stuff…
Edward Frattarelli
Fiskars Brush Axe the absolutely best for cutting branches.
http://www2.fiskars.com/Products/Gardening-and-Yard-Care/Axes-and-Mauls/Brush-Axe
Edward Frattarelli
For high branches I use a Ryobi 20 volt pole saw, on my second one, last about 1 1/2 years it is light duty, I would like to get a sturdier one, just haven’t found the right kind. I have Ryobi and DeWalt 20/60 volt battery lines. Waiting for DeWalt to make a pole saw.
For trees I use a 60 volt DeWalt chainsaw and love it, cuts like butter, worth the money so far.
Dianne Bentley
I like this idea as I am 63, do not how to use a chainsaw, and it is just me at the farm. I have too many small Pine Trees that I have topped out with a lopper cut the branches with the lopper. Now, I was thinking I need to learn that chainsaw. I like the reciprocating saw as I know how to use it. I have one that has a cord I will go buy the cordless one tomorrow and finish those small Pine Trees this week now. Great Idea for a 63 yrs farmher that lives by herself now.