A reader, Brian, sent in a great question the other day asking for our take about whether a 12V or 18V cordless power tool combo would be best for his planned projects. 12V lithium-ion cordless tools are becoming more powerful, ergonomic and feature-rich which each redesign as brands compete for market share. This makes it necessary to answer the “12V vs. 18V” question on a case-by-case basis.
Brian writes: As a home owner and DIYer, would going with a 12 volt cordless combo such as Bosch’s or the new Dewalt combo be enough for at most framing a wall or building onto a deck? If I go with a 18 volt combo I am thinking in terms of Dewalt, Makita or Milwaukee. In your opinion what would be the best brand? I want something that will last for quite a while.
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In our ensuing conversation we discussed brand and tool options, but the question of 12V vs 18V was answered quite quickly. My stance is that it is better to have more power available and not need it than to need it and not have it. I think that Brian knew he was going to go with an 18V kit and only needed a slight nudge away from 12-volts.
It is true that 12V power tools have become highly capable, but they still cannot come close to the performance of 18V tools in more intense drilling and driving applications. Ultimately it comes down to power vs. size, and which is more important for forseeable projects.
What is your take on this? Would you have recommended a 12V setup, or 18V as I did? Brian indicated that he was mainly looking for a drill and impact driver and would have purchased a corded circular saw if he needed one.
rob
I don’t own high end 18v tools (Ryobi for me). With that being said I tend to reach for my Makita 10.8 or Craftsman Nextc tools if it’s a quick job being done. It’s so much lighter and easier to carry around and much easier if you’re headed up a ladder. There are certain times I would rather go with the 18v impact driver or drill and I feel the 18v saw has a lot more power than the 12v versions do. I would say it really comes down to what your plans are, do you do a lot of longer lag bolts or are most of the screws smaller like deck screws etc. The new Ridgid 12v tools do look interesting, but I have already made my investments in smaller tools and would be staying with Makita (10.8) and Nextec (12v) tools.
teicher
As a fellow DIYer and homeowner, I would’ve definitely recommended the 12Vs. I’ve found my 12V tools keep up just fine next to my fathers 18Vs, plus mine are a *lot* lighter and easier to handle when holding them for prolonged periods of time, working over head or in tight spots, etc. Besides, I wouldn’t recommend going all cordless power tools away. A 3/8″ drill/driver is the #1 cordless tool to own, the rest are more of a case by case decision. I found that I prefer to use corded jigsaws and circular saws, and I have a corded 3/8″ drill when I need more power than my 12V cordless. All of these outdo their 18V counterparts, and at a lower cost.
Stuart
It also depends on if you’re talking about 18V Nicad or Li-ion. The newer 18V drills and drivers on the market are VERY compact and don’t at all resemble the monstrosities from even a few years ago.
I’m not knocking 12V tools. In fact I am greatly fond of them. Many tool users and DIYers will benefit from owning both 12V and 18V tools. But to start off, I think that having more power available benefits users more than a lighter and more compact tool would.
Steve
Milwaukee’s 12 volt fuel impact is rated at 1300 in lbs I believe. How many 18 volt impacts can even match that? And then there’s the weight difference. Why wear yourself out packing extra weight. As far as run time, Milwaukee has 1.5 – 2 – 3 – 4 amp hour batteries. Pound for pound, dollar for dollar you can’t go wrong with Milwaukee’s 12 volt line. Now consider over 50 tools 1 battery, its a no brainer
fred
We have and use both 18V and 12V tools. We have standardized on the Makita LXT line of 18V tools and the Milwaukee M12 lineup for our 12V tools. Our choice was based more on what was available in the lineups at the time we were switching over from older cordless tools and is not meant to be an endorsement of these particular tools – nor to denigrate other’s offerings. Our installers and plumbers often bring the M12’s that fit with the tasks and space constraints they often encounter. On more general contracting sites our lead carpenters usually draw out the LXT tools. We try not to push either set to do more than they can – and bring their corded heavy-duty cousins (like super hole hawgs) to use with selfeed bits. We also have yet to purchase any cordless power plane or router – and while we find some of the cordless saws (like the M12 Hackzall, and LXT trim saw and recip saw to be handy) we do our gang cutting with Skil 77’s
Mr.Miz
18v all the way. I just went through this myself. The only reason to go to 12 is for compact size, but most if not all of today’s 18v drill and impacts are so tiny and light that if the “feel” to big to be lugging around then the job your doing is too big for you 😉 I got ridge solely for the lifetime W on the battery and tool. I have a friend that has been very pleased with the lifetime w on the batteries so I’m giving it a try… JUST REMEMBER TO SEND IN YOUR REGISTRATION or your SOL. I’m currently VERY pleased with them. The practically feel like toys they are so small and light. Oh and research the best ways to keep from snapping screw heads with the impact driver (or just by better screws).
18v all the way it’s been about 3 monts of use and I’m begging for more reasons to use them everyday they are so awesome
Mr. Jess
Correct me I am wrong in my reasoning.
In regards to batteries, I have always been with the understanding that a lower voltage battery 12v delivered more current than a higher voltage battery 18v.
Which raises another question; are the motors in the newer power tools voltage dependent or current dependent?
Shane
Current (Amperage) is directly proportional to voltage, and inversely proportional to resistance. So if you raise the voltage, you raise the amperage, watts, power etc etc. That should answer both of your questions, one is related to the other.
Sources: Engineer.
Dennis
If you raise the voltage you lower the current, for a given resistance.
Faz
When you raise the voltage, you can raise current given a fix resistance. V=IR.
R is fixed, V goes up, I goes up.
V is fixed, I goes up, R goes down.
You can use calculator to test this Ohm’s Law formula.
Stuart
That’s not necessarily true. For a closed system with fixed power, yes, voltage and current are directly related with proportional changes. But this does not hold true when you have the ability to change battery capacity, chemistry, and configuration.
Just raising the voltage does not raise the overall power of a battery. Consider 5x D-cell batteries in parallel or series configurations for high-capacity 1.5V or 7.5V output. Then compare either setup to a 9V battery. The lower voltage battery configuration will have a MUCH higher power rating. Raising the voltage does NOT necessarily raise the amperage, wattage, or power.
Similar should hold true when comparing today’s high-efficiency and high-performance 10.8V lithium ion cordless tools to yesteryear’s clunky 12V NiCd cordless tools.
Chris
What are you talking about, Shane is correct.
Its Ohms law, Its a LAW
I=P/V
Nothing is going to change that.
Stuart
I’m not saying that Ohm’s law is invalid. What I’m saying is that it doesn’t apply here.
Adam
To be fair, that’s Joule’s First Law, or the power law. Ohm’s Law is V=IR, a related, but different law.
Source: I’m an electrical engineer.
Faz
When it comes to power in power tool, it always back to the P=IV formula.
For example, max output power of the tool is 400W, and they design the tool to use 18V power source, then when can safely say that the machine can handle a maximum of 22.2 amp. If the tool comes with 12V battery, if max power rating is the same 400W, then it can handle 33.3 amp.
But usually, when manufacturer design lower voltage power source, they will sacrifice the tool current carrying capability, hence reducing the total power output of the tool.
Power output works on demand. E.g, if you making a hold on a softwood, max current draw could be 2 amp, at 18V, max power at that instant is only 36watt.
If you are making a hold on a steel/masonry, work load is higher, the tool could draw up the max current 22 amp, which contribute to power draw of 400 watt.
If the tool need more power (more than max rated 400w) as the steel/masonry is damn hard, the circuit board in the tool could blown or if it has circuit protection, it will stop working for a while.
Stuart
Power equations don’t tell you about how different tools compare, because you don’t know the wattage or max current draw. There are plenty of 12V Max cordless drills and drivers that are more powerful than some 18V-class models.
The power ceiling of 18V-class tools is definitely higher than that of 12V-class ones. But there’s a good amount of overlap between higher powered 12V-class tools and lower powered 18V-class tools.
Faz
Its good to power up a tool at lower current whenever possible, which will put less strain and less heat to your power tool internals and the battery. It is all based on P=IV formula. Where V is voltage, I is current and P is power. For example, when your load, drilling something, needs 100 watt and you use 18V supply, the current running throughout the circuit is approx 5.6 amp. If you use 12V supply, current is about 8.3 amp. Higher running amp in the circuit, will make wires, electrical circuits, motor winding and some other stuff in there heating up more, thus reducing the performance and longevity of the power tool.
Stuart
There is no reason why a lower voltage battery would deliver more current than a higher voltage battery. Engineers design cordless power tools, or at least a good quality ones, with motors that are matched to their batteries. You won’t see 18V motors in 12V tools or vise versa.
Regarding power transmission, a lower voltage battery would have to deliver greater current to match the wattage of a higher voltage battery delivering less current.
As mentioned, in newer power tools, the motors are going to be carefully designed to match its intended operating voltage. Current draw will vary depending on the speed and application, with built-in circuits limiting the maximum draw possible to avoid damage.
Jerry
If he was sure he was going to do nothing bigger than frame a wall, or add on to a deck (absolutely sure) and he is just a DIYer, and not a professional, I would recommend something like the DeWalt 12V Max line. The tools have almost as much power as the last generation of NiCad powered 18 volt tools, and are lighter, and easier to handle. It sounded like he was looking towards DeWalt, Milwaukee, etc, and not a lower-end tool, and the high-end 12V will do a lot of work.
Not too long ago, I would have said the 18 volt, primarily for the increased driving power, but that was back when I was driving screws with a drill/driver instead of an impact driver. I have seen a DeWalt 12V max impact driver doing framing work, running #10X 4 inch framing screws, attatching 24 studs to 4X4s, and doing it well. Not as fast as an 18V, and definately not as many per charge, but it was doing it, and doing it well. Unless you need more power than that, the 12V kit is cheaper to buy, cheaper to get batteries for (a big deal for a DIYer, who will be replacing batteries more due to age, than use, and may not wear out a pro grade tool for quite a few years).
Terry
I am a retired remodeler. I don’t do nearly the work I used to. I have a rental house to work on. I can not bring myself to buy some of the cheaper brands like Ryobi, Rockwell, Craftsman. I start a job with a Milwaukee M12 tool. If the task gets serious I get out my Makita 18v LX tool and take care of it.
MrM3000
I’ll have to disagree with you on painting Rockwell as a “cheap” brand. It’s anything but! I have a little Rockwell 16v Max impact driver and the thing is not only quality-made, it’s a pleasure to use. I also recently bought a Milwaukee M12 drill/driver and comparing it to the Rockwell it looks a bit less well manufactured (rough edges, cheaper plastics), though functionally it is beautifully smooth. Honestly, I love using them both but the Rockwell has a slight edge IMO over the Milwaukee, as far as quality and finish.
Chuck
I have a 12v Makita Drill & Driver set that I absolutley love, but I am only using them for homeowner repairs and DIY projects. I am not professional and my tools are not used every day. I have very small hands so the compact, light weight design was very attractive to me. My wife is even comfortable using them because she feels like she has much better control with these than any of my other power tools. Another reason for me choosing the 12v was that I already had a Dewalt hammer drill for heavy duty drilling.
I really do love my 12v set and have yet to encounter a job the impact driver couldn’t handle. That said, if you watch for sales, the price difference between the 12v and 18v may not be much. In that case, why not go with the 18.
Anonymous
I don’t make my decisions solely by “power”. I choose my tools based on various features. I own a 12v lithium-ion drill/driver and an 18v drill/driver. My 18v drill/driver can deliver a higher maximum torque than my 12v drill/driver/ however, given that my 12v drill/driver is still “enough” for my takes, I then compare the remaining features;
18v
-Higher maximum torque.
-Bulky and large, which can be difficult to store or carry.
-Heavy.
-Battery can take up to six hours to fully charge it at a 20% capacity.
12v
-Lower maximum torque, yet, at least enough.
-Higher maximum RPM.
-Smaller and less bulky, makes it easier to store and carry.
-Lighter and more comfortable to use.
-Battery can fully charge within one to two hours at a 0% capacity.
-Battery lasts longer on a single charge.
This feature comparison is for new drill/drivers, and, I am not stating this as fact regarding every 12v or 18v power tool, only my experience with the crafters that I use. I’m also not implying that one is better than the other. I guess my point is, each has pros and cons. The best decision is to compare the features and choose your tool for what you need. I use my 12v more than 18v, although the 18v has more power. Because the 12v has other benefits than the 18v that I enjoy, however, at least the 12v is still enough for me. So, sacrificing the extra power that I don’t need for beneficial features is worth it too me. If there was ever a time that I need more power that my 12v cannot handle, I would use the 18v and deal with the flaws of it.
Charles
I am getting close to ninety and weight of equipment is the problem. Use AEG 12 volt separate drill and driver. They are good and also look beautiful and are relatively small. For most of my work I like them because they are smaller and lighter. For bigger projects I use corded tools.
I would like to see on the market some much lighter tools say about one pound which would be fairly cheap and which would have to be replaced within a year or so. After all things change very fast. And there will be more oldies in the future. My wife has Bosch drill about 10.6volt and screwdriver about 6.5volt. They are tiny and surprisingly strong and she is very happy with them.
Ellie
So if I’m buying my husband (a weekend DIY) a cordless drill for his birthday, I’ll be fine with either a 12v or an 18v?
Richard
I am a master electrician by trade electronics and instrument tec my comments are on power . Power is not based on volts or amps but on watts it matters not on either bot on both . This is true for both AC and DC, Mots on AC often are wired to run on either
If you double the voltage you half the amperage the watts (power) is the same, however the higher voltage requires better insulation while the highr amperage requires heavier wiring. This may add somewhat to the weight of the tool.
ouble
120/240 240/480 etc
Lazybum
Great input- As a serious hobbyist, I am going with the 12V. I bought a cheapy Royobi 12V for the house and it works great. I do have my old stand-by Milwaukee 3/8 corded and assorted 1/2 corded if required. But I like the size for samll projects and I like the recharge time for 12v . We shall see….
BTW, I am requiring whatever I get to have a light that stays on a few seconds vs my royobi that must have the trigger engaged to turn on. Muy importante!
Abraham Ray
Ridgid I just bought works great, more torque than most 18v, longer runtime, and the light stays on a bit after you release the trigger.
Matt
I’m a pro wooden-houses builder, in France.
I had (and still have) many drills for my teams and myself.
Since the Li-Ion tech, you can go eyes-closed for a 12v set if your a hobbyist or even an electrician or plumber.
A cordless drill is not only specs, torque and so on. It’s as well a question of balance, of reliability etc.
So far, one of the best mix in 18v is Makita. 18v LXT, not the best overall.. but a very complete line of tools with same batteries. I think it’s for pro only. You can use better tool at home (! yes, better). I imported a set of 20v Max Porter Cable drill / impact drill and it’s *superior* to Makita, for nearly half the price.
At home, or for smaller job (or let’s say, 95% of the task) I prefer to use a 12v set.
I’ve a Ridgid 12v set (drill and impact)… it’s 33% lighter. At the end of the day, it makes a difference. I barely miss the power of a Makita.
If I had only one choice, as hobbyist or semi-pro : I’ll go for a super-quality 12v set, like Milwaukee Fuel etc. If I need more power, I’ll do myself a favor and use a corded drill. Simple as that. 12v is more versatile.
Paul K
This is real old but since it came up cause of the Joule’s vs. Ohm’s Law thing I feel like commenting. A 12v Bosch or Milwaukee drill and impact driver set will build and do everything a diyer/homeowner wants to do. You can build a house, a whole house with them. There’s only one thing in that house build will need another drill for….drilling out the foundation for the furnace vent. Any other 12v brand, no, for hobbiests.
Steve
I just want to thank you everyone for their input on this. I’m a new DIY’r and just bought the 20v Max Dewalt. It’s amazing and I love it. But at the same time I don’t need this much power or the weight. Im not a professional but I love good tools when I’m doing wee projects here and there. I’m actually writing this and going back to Home Depot to switch it out for the 12v Dewalt kit. Plus the 12v is on sale for $169 right now.
Two years ago I did a project for an old boss. He wanted to divide up some space and make two offices with installing a wall. I didn’t even have tools at this time. So I used his 12v Dewalt Kit. I built a partition, tables and shelves and used a couple different screws due to some of it attaching to brick and some not. I had absolutely no issues using the 12v with this. I must have used a few hundred screws for this and two other projects for him and that impact driver killed it. I actually used both impact and drill driver and was very impressed with both. Not once did I ever have any kind of struggle and I was drilling brick and wood using 3-4” screws. Even for one part I used 6 inch screws and Still no issues.
Thanks again for everyone’s information. Just like a few of you said, if I ever need more power I’ll just use a corded drill or take out 18v. But honestly from my experience if I ever do need more it’s for a hammer drill only.
J.
I recently was researching some drill/drivers, and saw a brand that claimed the 12V produced 350 in. lbs of driving torque, while the 20V only produced 177 in. lbs.
I have a question pending with their service people as to why this is, … but they haven’t replied yet.
If anyone here could answer this, it would be cool.
Will
I’m no engineer but I’d guess the 12v is spinning more slowly than the 20. Sorry I don’t have the math to explain it.