A couple of days ago, I talked about 3 tools that I cheaped out on, with zero regrets. Today, let’s talk about a couple of times when cheaping out was a big mistake.
When it comes to things like this, your experiences might vary. Everyone’s needs and preferences are different.
Cheap Drill Bits
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There are cheap drill bits, mid-range drill bits, and industrial drill bits. Sometimes mid-range drill bits are inexpensive, but that doesn’t make them cheap.
Cheap drill bits don’t cut well when brand new, they don’t cut cleanly, and they don’t work fast. Sometimes it’s hard to know what you’re dealing with, since cheap and junky drill bits can sometimes do a passing job in light materials. But step up to even slightly challenging materials, and cheap drill bits will only frustrate you.
Cheap drill bits are also more prone to breakage.
When I couldn’t afford a 29pc drill bit set, I bought a smaller 14pc set and made do. When I needed a few wire gauge or letter sizes for drilling holes to be tapped, I bought just those sizes. When my needs grew and my budget could accommodate it, I bought a good quality 115pc drill bit set (on sale).
I don’t cheap out on drill bits or other power tool accessories if I can help it.
Cheap Knives
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Cheap knives can be slow and gritty to open, dull to cut, uncomfortable to use, and overall inconvenient.
Are there inexpensive knives? Yes. I’ve used $10-$15 knives that worked reasonably well for how much they cost. But I’ve also used $10-$30 knives that were practically unusable.
I have a small Gerber Paraframe knife, and it was a good go-to until I got more interested in pocket knives. I bought a larger Paraframe, and it was tougher to open and close. Gerber customer service tried to help me through adjustments, but nothing worked. For the money, I kept it, rather than returning or exchanging it.
Then there’s the Coast Skeleton knife, which I briefly reviewed.
A knife needs to open, be used to cut something, and then closed. If it can’t do these things easily, what’s the point?
Milwaukee has some nice inexpensive knives.
Price doesn’t determine quality. A $30 USA-made Kershaw or imported Spyderco might be dreams to use, while a different brand’s $30 USA-made folder might have a gritty opening and flawed lock to the point where it could be dangerous to use.
Cheap Ratchet
When I started building up my tool capabilities, I upgraded from a no-name socket set to smaller Craftsman sets. First a few of the really small sets, then a 94pc set. Later, I bought more deep sockets separately.
A good ratchet will instantly upgrade one’s entire socket set. Just one tool, and everything works better.
I have a couple of inexpensive ratchets, and some better ones, including coarse-toothed Proto ratchets that I bought used or on clearance, and finer-toothed Craftsman ratchets I bought on sale or received as test samples.
Quality can vary for name brands, but I’ve had good experiences with Husky, Kobalt, Craftsman, Proto, Gearwrench, Wera, and Stanley.
No-name ratchets? I’ve had the slip on me, and I’ve had other issues, such as bad direction selection levers, and uncomfortable handles.
This is one tool that I wouldn’t cheap out on, ever again.
Cheap Safety Gear
The other day, I talked about having zero regrets buying inexpensive brand-name safety gear. That is true. But if given the option, I won’t do it again.
Maybe I will buy a pack of basic 3M N95 dust masks, in case I need a disposable respirator for quick field-use.
But for project use? Comfortable safety gear is more likely to be worn. Small features that might seem insignificant can lead to very different user experiences.
Goggles with anti-fogging coatings, vented respirators, face masks made with more premium cushion materials, ear muffs with soft ear cups – little things can make safety gear feel invisible, at least for a short time, or they can make you feel miserable.
Even if it means spending 4X more on disposable (sometimes semi0reusable) face masks, it’s worth it to me.
Cheap Work Boots or Other Footwear
I won’t cheap out on shoes or boots.
2 years ago, I suffered achilles tendinitis and plantar fasciitis. It still flares up on occasion. I also have a morton’s neuroma on the same foot, which started at around the same time. There’s basically an inflamed nerve in my foot, causing some numb-tingling of my 4th toe.
Things get worse if I work too heavily in the house without shoes on.
Injury issues aside, I’ve had too many bad experiences when I cheaped out on footwear.
Back in college, I bought a pair of sneakers for $18. They completely wore out in 5 weeks or so. I tried cheap boots. They weren’t comfortable and leaked like a sieve.
I have found that I end up paying around the same for good footwear as I do inexpensive brands. My favorite brand these days is Merrell. Before that, Timberland.
While I spend more on these brands, the shoes last longer – a lot longer. Maybe they’re more comfortable, too.
You can save a bit of money on pricier brands if you shop towards the end of seasons, or with coupons. Buying “last year’s colors” can also save you some money.
With work boots, I’ve found that matching the style and fit is as important as going with a reputable brand. Brands like to boast fancy features, such as space-age nano-tube composite toe caps, but for me it still comes down to finding a shoe or boot that’s also comfortable and durable (with or without safety toe, depending on need).
We’ll have to talk about safety toe work boots another time. I have yet to find a safety toe boot that’s as comfortable as my Merrell non-safety-toe boots.
(My Salomon snow boots have endured their 8th season now. $112 over 8 years comes out to $14 per season.)
Cr8on
Drill bits… I go cheap but I’m primary in construction and high precision is not needed 99% of the time.
Boots, I’ve had high quality/dollar boots and yes they tend to be better in every way, I am however wearing some cheap Wally world boots right now that are really solid, full leather, water proof, steel toe, that have been through over a year of Michigan weather (it’s snowing today lol). Would I buy them again… I don’t know, I think I just got lucky with the pair I have.
Nathan
I’m mostly with you on a few of those. The knives thing I can mostly agree on.
However I have to also say this. There is cheap and the time spent to find the deal for the quality – and there is cheap because I have to have something right now.
Shoes – all day every day. For me it’s new balance on the athletic shoes – red wing for work shoes and allen edmonds for dress.
Ratchets – I also agree a quality ratchet makes working with a sub par socket decent. I’m currently on the search for a new quality ratchet to replace my worn stahlwille ones. Before I drop the money on replacement head parts – I want to buy an american made quality ratchet. I have a thread on this in the forum. Leaning towards an SK90. I’d happily volunteer to review a few if you wanted some help.
Tyler
Stuart – Just a heads up, the Header for knifes says “CHEAT KNIVES”
The one thing that stood out for me was the footwear. I just don’t do it anymore, my feet now thank me. Something related that I don’t cheap out on anymore are belts. In the long run, I have actually saved myself money by investing in quality dress and utility pants belts.
Stuart
Thanks! I’m sure that’s not the only typo I made. My daughter’s recovering from minor surgery (tonsils & adenoids) and doesn’t want to leave my lap.
Tyler
That’s never fun. I wish her a speedy recovery!
Stuart
Thanks! It has been challenging getting her to eat “allowed” foods, and it’s only day 3 of 10-14 day recovery period.
But she’s in a good mood overall.
Nathan
Daughter had tubes and adenoid removal 2 years ago. I will say it gets better in about a day. She was her normal self (as normal as can be expected that is) the next day after some solid sleep.
EMILIO E GONZALEZ
Drill bits by their nature are not precision tools but I do want them to be on size with even flutes. I never cheap out on drills. All of my drills are Gurhing, C-L, Cleveland, PTD, MA Ford, etc.. and most are cobalt, especially the small ones.
I’ve gotten great deals on Ebay for Guhring drill bits and others. Carbide drills do come in handy sometimes as well. I use those on a mill or lathe only. I never buy sets. It may be less expensive but I’d rather buy what I need and build a collection that way. McMaster-Carr and Msc are good places to buy drills, with Msc having occasional sales. Quality drill bits will last longer, stay sharp and cut evenly. If I want a precision hole, I use a boring head and/or reamer.
Gordon
Can’t agree more on the footwear. Cheap shoes are like cheap tires. They might work for your average day, but they’re going to wear out fast. Worn out tires become a safety issue in less than ideal conditions and I think worn out shoes are no different.
Plus, your feet are one of the few body parts that has to work all day. It’s definitely worth treating them right.
Nathan
Well I think stuarts point on precision there is more likely cheapo depot bits that are marked as say 1/8th but in reality come out to be 3/16th or worse – out of round where you can end up with an uneven hole.
For example I never buy anything of sized product from Harbor Freight – Like a wrench or socket or something. SO I’d never even consider their drill bits. But I will pay another 10 dollars or more on a set from Home Depot or whatever that are Dewalts, or Milwaukee or Irwin ect.
Gordon
I have a Husky “precision mini-screwdriver set.” Most bits are ok because size is mostly irrelevant in flat and Phillips head screws. But the Torx and Hex bits are almost unusable. First off, the Hex look like they were whittled to size. But more importantly, they aren’t close to the listed size. The 2mm hex measures at 1.8mm, the 0.5mm comes in at 0.4, and most other bits are as bad or worse. The difference is enough that I have stripped out some fasteners.
Jonathan
Kinda of the same thing with HF sandpaper, saw blades.
But the SS magnetic parts bowls work fine.
The yeti
Red Wing Pecos.
Diamond Dave
Cheap Drill Bits: I have a ton of drill bits from almost all the big name brands along with some “cheap” drill bits that maybe came included in a promo or something similar. Black Oxide, Titanium Coated, wood only brad point drill bits, long wood drill bits, etc etc. Personally I prefer the black oxide bits as they seem to drill consistently good through both metal and wood and if they are a good name brand they are sharp. The wood only brad point bits I use obviously for wood but I have to be careful as they burrow so fast they have a tendency to not drill as precisely as say the black oxide drill bits. Titanium coated drill bits perhaps stay sharper longer but since I don’t drill consistently in metal day to day, I cannot verify this. Name brand bits are on sale constantly for all manufacturers so I really don’t see the reasoning of purchasing a “cheap” set of bits to save a couple of bucks?
Diamond Dave
As far as good work boots, I only purchase real leather in all my shoes for starters and Wolverine boots are my favorite. I do want to mention that foot comfort in boots is not a standard as one person may have a set of boots that they love and are comfortable while another has the same pair and their feet hurt. Feet are very personal and having a good set of custom made orthodic supports will make all the difference! Having had plantar fasciitis myself it wouldn’t make a huge difference how much you spent of boots or shoes if your condition is severe enough. Once you have orthotics made and get accustomed to them the supports themselves will help your foot pain more than the boot or shoe as it is a adjustment to how your foot pronates while walking rather then just cushioning or arch support.
Satch
Stuart, good for you mentioning work footwear. My mother beat it into me years ago; buy the best footwear you can afford. Dress shoes? Not so much if don’t have a job that demands it. Blue collar work? Definitely. I too had plantars and gents, if you can avoid it, DO IT. I have been wearing Keen work shoes these last two years and they are working well. Get something that fits properly.
mosh
Boots Red Wing.
Just took back a pair and was about 6 months old that was peeling a little.
No problem gave me a new one great service and love my boots.
Diamond Dave
Knives: I currently have a Kershaw for EDC but would never spend more than $30 on a pocket knife! I want a knife that keeps an edge but at the same time I can abuse when needed and if I pay more than $25-$30 for a pocket knife I would be afraid to ever use it for anything other than cutting! I have quite a few sharpening devices and have a pocket sharpener by “Smiths” hanging on my Tool box for quick sharpenings! Works great! Every so often I clean up my pocket knife and put some type of oil on it both the blade and the joints and that’s it. Whenever I putchase any knife I always remove the tiny outer screws and put loctite removable formula because I have had these screws come out in the past and replacements are impossible to obtain and it’s frustrating to throw away a perfectly good knife just because some screws came out.
Jonathan
Agree after losing a Spyderco and a few other spendy knives, I think pocket clips were culprits. I also try to stay around that $30 threshold have a Kershaw that
was a recent Amazon daily deal as my EDC.
I also have several knife sharpners/systems, but my favorite is Worksharp – same company that make the Drill bit Doctor for sharpening bits (never tried it but heard good things). It’s the easiest and fastest way to get most knives back to that initial factory sharp edge -granted a person can spend time in get many blades to that razor edge, but being able to get filet knives and chef knives that can slice tomatoes in less than a minute is the easiest and fastest I ever used (they do recommend practicing on a few cheap knives first as you round off tips etc pretty easily.
Rob
The heads of knife collectors would explode if they saw what my Sebenza looks like at this very moment. :0
Agreed, though, there are thousands of good knives under $30; and if it’s sharp, it’s sharp.
Let’s be honest with ourselves, however: nothing beats a box cutter. :0
Rami
I only cheap on something if I know I am going to use it for something it is not really intended for, or if I am going to use it just once or twice. For example I buy cheap flathead screwdriwers as I use them more like a chisel and hit them with a hammer and I want to save my good screwdrivers for screwdriving. I sometimes cheap out on fixed blade knives as I use them for prying, breaking, cleaning welds etc. I cheap out on gloves too if I am going to wear them while gluing wood.
Bob
Ratchets? Meh… A cheap one is stronger than me, and will last longer than me. As long as it is easy to put sockets off and on, and the clicks are not too soft, or too hard, they can cost $5 of $50 and they’re fine.
I’m not knife proud. As long as it walks and talks, holds an edge, easy to sharpen, I’m good. My current EDC cost $9. It’s a 3 blade stockman made by Rough Rider with a nice gun stock checkered bone scales. 400 stainless, which as we all know, it very sensitive to heat treatment. It can be too hard or soft on a cheap knife. Mine is just about right.
Can’t wear boots, I feel like a cat with masking tape on its feet. Same with safety gear, I use it when I must, use common sense.
Drill bits, ya. I’m very picky about them. Only HSS or Cobalt HSS, no alloy or carbon steel for me. (in my best Monte Python imitation) It’s crrrrrrrrrap! I use a drill Doctor because good bits are expensive. Using the fine stone, it makes them like new.
fred
Frugal is good – cheap is often not frugal. Twist drill bits for our metalworking and pipe fabrication business were always a USA top brand. For the remodeling business – it the bits were for drilling pilot or clearance holes in wood – we might bring a Morse bit from the shop – or if stuck with a size missing – the guys would buy whatever (e.g. Dewalt) was hanging on the rack at HD.
Dust masks – we’d by mostly 3M in bulk – but the guys who used the respirators (in the spray booth’s – sandblasting area etc.) would be fitted – and we’d have an industrial hygienist come in to do the fit testing – and training (seal checking etc.) at least once per year (or when we had a new employee.) We’d also require that those required to wear a respirator were medically cleared to do so.
Regarding footwear, what fits well on my high instep size 11 – 3E feet might not work for others. In dress shoes USA-made Allen Edmonds fit me well. But it isn’t where the shoe is made or the cost that insures a good fit for me. Inexpensive China-made Nunn-Bush shoes seem to fit me OK too. Churchill English shoes, Johnston and Murphy’s and some other expensive brands never seem to fit me right. The first time we were in Florence, my wife wanted to buy me a pair of Ferragamo’s – but I could not find a style that fit my foot.
For work boots, I’ve tried Lehigh, Red Wings, Wolverines, and Dunham – with the Dunhams seeming to fit me best. Right now, I’m wearing a pair of Sketchers relaxed fit slip-ons that are very inexpensive, extremely comfortable – but hardly good for construction work
Jonathan
Cheap paint brushes or cheap paint (low quality) – for any project where it will show or it matters.
Learned the hard way, as much as I don’t like painting, I hate having to redo or repaint because of stray bristles or paint globs, etc.
I normally buy Purdy brushes.
Cheap brushes or ok for testing colors or for cleaning auto parts, and maybe even novice archeology (lol may hear otherwise).
Steve S
Agree with this 100%! I too dislike painting and learned from too many do-overs to avoid the cheapest brushes and rollers.
Jonathan
Honestly, a little shocked that more TG followers, are not DiYers or that TG has so few Pro/Contractor painters that follow/read. Didn’t think think that my experience with cheap R.O.C. crappy brushes was so usual.
None the less, Hate Prep/don’t mind the painting as much (albeit with a great brush).
skfarmer
you have some interesting ideas bob.
ratchets? there is far more to a ratchet than whether you can break it. too much back drag, floppy heads, oversized heads and uncomfortable handles are all bad things that have nothing to do with how long they last or if you can break them.
knives? i am by no means a knife junkie but i do know that a quality knife is much more pleasant and safe to use and many can be had for not much more than a cheap one if you look.
boots? who said they had to be boots. i prefer boots as i often work around things that can get in lower shoes. saw dust, dirt, mud, grain and worse yet hot shavings or molten steel are unpleasant when the get inside your shoe. that said i have no issues wearing good shoes of any type whether they are my dress cowboy boots, pull on work boots, athletic/hiking shoes or sandals. they all have a place and again quality ones can be had for often not much more than cheapies. i am usually not afraid of a shoe that has a removable insole. if you can take it out and see that it is well made and things look well made underneath you are pretty safe. it also makes it easier to dry wet shoes and replace the insole if they wear out or a different type of support is needed. i don’t wear them exclusively but i have had very good luck with ariat boots and my sons are fans of them as well.
i am in 100% agreement on cheap drill bits. good name brand drill bits, especially in the smaller sizes can be bought fairly cheap in sets and on sales. larger sizes can be sharpened and the smaller sizes are just consumables. i am always frustrated when i run across crappy bits. they can barely cut wood andare easily bent. ever try and drill a hole with a bent bit? insert cuss word here (………).
mla
On the dust mask front, you might check out the GVA half mask respirators.
I had some insulation work done and the installers turned me on to them. I’ve only used them a couple times now but they seem much more comfortable than my previous stuff — comfortable enough that I didn’t take them off half way through the job like I normally do.
Mangani
About 4 or 5 years ago I’ve been slowly upgrading my tools from the no name cheap brands to know brands in the mod range to high end. It’s taken time but I’ll get there eventually. Thanks to TOOLGUYD and all comments from everyone making suggestions and recommendations. As a professional Electrical Technician I always strive to get genuine tools I can use again and again. I have no say on PPE because i depend on my employer but will try Marrell boots one of these fine day.
mla
GVS, I should have said
Chris
Back to power tool accessories. Don’t cheap out on fast spinning accessories such as abrasive cut off wheels or grinding wheels. Not only will they not cut well for long but they’re also dangerous. This is also the same for cup brushes or wire wheels. Nobody wants high speed metal wire zipping around their faces.
JP
I find this to be true. A couple of explosive separations with HF cut off wheels and I never bought them again. Thank god for the UVEX face shield.
Noah
Cheap drill bits are the worst. They can barely cut wood, the make triangle holes, and they’re rarely if ever straight.
Charles Stopczynski
So spot-on regarding cheap drill bits, socket sets, knifes, and WORK BOOTS/SHOES, you buy junk you get junky results.
Working long days on concrete the last 8 years of my career I experienced excruciating foot pain. Plantar fasciitis, metatarsal pain, and more. Some days nearly in tears by lunch time, taking maximum amount of pain relievers, with minimal benefit. Ordinary work shoes such as Red Wings didn’t do the job.
One day a work associate showed me a pair of shoes and said they really eased his constant foot pain. Instinctively I knew I had to try a pair. Next day after work I went and purchased a pair of Z-Coil shoes. http://www.zcoil.com you can buy direct with a 30-day trial period. There is a dealer locator (ask re return policy). READ THE TESTIMONIALS, EVEN FOOT SURGEONS RECOMMEND THEM. Available with or without safety toe. Also available as a variety of other styles too. I own and wear 3 pairs. The old red wings are strictly for yard work. Except I’m forgetful, and frequently wear my Z-Coils there too. Oh yes, their other name is “PAIN RELIEF FOOTWEAR”. You have nothing to loose but the pain. 11-years and counting on my wonderful Z-Coil shoes. If there was a way I would volunteer my e-mail address to answer any questions. I’ll watch for anyone having a question and reply to you.
Koko The Talking Ape
Ditto on ratchets. I nearly lost a tooth when a cheap ratchet broke a pawl on me. Lots of blood everywhere too.
Also ditto on safety equipment. Good dust masks fit better and are more comfortable than cheap ones, which means I am more likely to wear it. Stupid but true.
Re boots, I wear almost nothing but Keens now. They have a really wide, tall toe box that looks dorky but makes them much more comfortable over the long run. They aren’t the most durable in the world, but the comfort makes up for it. I usually insert some SOLE insoles, which last longer than the boot. Keen has a new work line with steel or carbon fiber toes that I haven’t tried.
JoeM
Well, I can’t agree on the footwear thing. I have an unusually wide foot, and flat feet, so I have nothing to compare to when it comes to buying footwear. Usually, it’s just… “If it fits, buy it. You might not find another pair that does.” and whether or not they’re “Cheap”… I don’t know, to be totally honest. If I didn’t find an expensive, high-end brand that fit, and I didn’t find a dollar store type cheapo set that fit, and I’ve gone to twenty different places and not found any alternatives, then it’s hard to say whether I bought the cheap ones, or the expensive ones. They were really the ONLY ones.
Other than that, I would say I have the same others. I won’t cheap out on a lot of the same things Stuart mentioned. I don’t know if it counts, but I’m a bit of a knife nut, and appreciate old knives. So, there have been times when I have gone to, say, a flea market or garage sale, and bought some nice ones for next to nothing. But, I don’t so much use them, so much as I appreciate them. They kinda go off to a drawer somewhere, but I know where they are, and take them out to inspire myself from time to time. The Knives I use for working on projects, and the ones I carry around as a whole, are not the cheap ones. I have one or two that were inexpensive, but not cheap by any stretch.
Other than that… Computer Parts. I won’t cheap out, not even just to get by. I won’t buy a computer off a shelf, and I won’t buy a computer I didn’t have a say in exactly what goes into it. So, my Computer stuff is NEVER cheap. In fact it often breaks people’s brains sometimes, that I opted for THAT level of expensive with such a low income. But, I’ve maintained the same computer for 14+ years now. I’d say my pickiness has paid off there. The only exception is USB or other connection cables. I know they’re just wire and insulation, so if I get bulk amounts of cheap ones, it really doesn’t matter. I know how they’re made, I can make them myself, and so I genuinely do not mind going cheap on cables. Any INTERNAL cables I have to buy are rare, as you usually get ten more than you need just buying the parts in the first place. I have piles of spares I never bought, they just came with the parts.
Sockets… I bought some store-brand in a kit once, and they worked great. Flawlessly even. But, the first chance I had to buy a DEDICATED Socket set, I went Stanley, Black Chrome. The first chance I had to go name-brand anything, I went for the one I knew was quality. When I upgraded from the hammer in the original kit I bought, to a hammer of my own… Stanley FatMAX AntiVibe. It’s an endless list, usually. I buy something cheap that just covers a whole range of things I don’t have, and then that kit slowly gets dismembered as I replace it with better quality. Still HAVE the kit, but it’s going to be given away at some point, because it truly has been stripped bare.
Andrew
It’s funny, I was actually just writing a piece on this very same topic for a column I’m providing to a local paper.
The impetus, though, was our recent round of (multiple expletives deleted) snow. I always decide to be a cheap ass and buy the cheapest, most easily-accessible snow/ice scraper I can find. And usually, I end up buying at least four or five through the course of a winter because they break. All the damn time.
Finally, this year, I stopped myself while at the store and had a conversation with myself. “You idiot,” I told myself. “You live in Wisconsin. You will likely never escape Wisconsin and, thus, will be doomed to a lifetime of miserably cold, snowy and icy winters (and, uh, Aprils….). Buy the good scraper for once, you cheap (expletive deleted).”
It’s a similiar conversation I had with myself when first getting started in the workshop. I had great tools — at least, considering my ability, experience and opportunity to use them. A higher-end miter saw, very good drills, etc. But after spending all that money, I’d buy the cheapest set of drill bits, router bits or blades and, not surprisingly, my work suffered for it.
I still suck at 98 percent of what I attempt, but by investing in — and taking better care of — better … uhh, accutroments … I’m seeing better results. Which means less swearing.
I’ve long lived by the premise of going generic with anything but sunglasses, toilet paper and my work gear (voice recrder, notebook, pencils, cables). Adding bits and accessories to that list was a big step.
Also … ice scrapers. Seriously.
Stuart
https://14cyiuhvcgv.com/mallory-heavy-duty-snow-brush-review/%3C/a%3E%3C/p%3E
I broke so many ice brushers and scrapers. And car shovels.
http://gearguyd.com/why-i-keep-an-avalanche-shovel-in-my-car/
I probably should have rewritten that one for ToolGuyd. My Voile shovel has quite a bit of wear on the leading edge, but is still going strong.
Andrew
I love the Mallory. That got relegated to the Focus when I bought an even “more heavy-duty” scaper/brush/squeegee(?) for my truck. That shovel though … swoon. (On that note… how have I never stumbled upon GearGuide before? Looks like the last three innings of this game just got more tolerable!)
Stuart
Well, my last GearGuyd post was nearly 3 years ago, the one before that, nearly 4 years ago.
There are too many things to do here on ToolGuyd for me to consider spending any efforts elsewhere.
JeffD
I’ve gone through tons of crappy drill bits over the years. Who hasn’t? Now it’s molybdenum or nothing.
Joe
Chris reeves small sebenza 21…for home and only utility knifes at work like the folding Dewalt…I always say buy what you can afford, you won’t regret it.
Diy guys will buy store brand ratchets, serious weekend warriors get better tools, SK,Proto,Snap On, Wright, etc. …..it’s also an investment to pass on to my kids.
Must say I was a redwing guy, $300+ but changed to Dewalt boots $150 , most comfortable boot I ever wore with a composite toe (OSHA) gotta have it, the toe wore in about a year and they replaced them ,free.
Cobalt bits can’t be beat…if you snap a bit and mark up your project ,your working on ,that’s definitely not worth it. …..I’ll always say it, buy American and get the best ,just don’t help China….
Madak88
What Redwing Boots were you buying for over $300?
Matthew
My Red Wing steel toe/waterproof pull on boots retail for 290. By the time I get their upgraded insoles I am looking at 350. Granted, I have a size 15 and my choices are quickly limited to what they even make in my size.
JoeM
I just realized I have a major exception to the rule, when I comes to drill bits. Sometimes I swear by bits I haven’t bought yet, because they’re ones I’ve researched and can’t afford to buy.
I’ve been drooling over a Carbide drill bit, 2mm, from Drillbitwarehouse.com for nearly 4 years now. I need it to ventilate a computer side for my computer. But, at $20 each, plus a minimum order of $50… it is difficult to justify buying it.
The same goes for my Socket Set. Yeah, I went Stanley Black Chrome… but it lacks the largest sized sockets and ratchet. I’ve been meaning to upgrade to the uber kit with all the sizes in both standard and deep socket, in all 3 socket types… but when I have the money for it, it’s not available. And when I DON’T have the money, it goes on HUGE discounted sale, and I can’t buy it. So, my exception to the rule is when the thing I want to use is beyond my financial reach for reasons that always defy the rational explanations.
Bob
I have a handful of carbide bits. A couple of them I made from solid carbide drill blanks. They’re surprisingly easy to grind with a rough diamond stone or a diamond coated thin metal wheel. Sure, they’re spade drills, but most holes I drill with them are only around 1/8″.
Madak88
I wont buy Merrells any more. I am hard on shoes and paid over a hundred dollars for a good pair of their hikers. They lasted me about 11 months. I had cheap Sketchers work boots that the Merrels replaced that lasted two years before that. I decided it wasn’t worth it any more and just bought a non steel toe version of my Red Wing Work Boots. I finally had to replace those last month after 11 years of hard wear. Best $250 you can spend on your feet are a pair of Red Wing Supersoles.
ktash
Shoes for all five. I had plantar facitis, shin splints, beginning bunions, on both sides of my foot, and intracalcaneal bursitis. Treatment included physical therapy and arch supports. The physical therapy helped quite a bit, but much of it was not touched. The worst of this went on over a couple of years.
In desperation, I searched the internet and came across this approach, which looks at the mechanics of the foot. Here’s an explanation https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCrvF55HYiw.
This worked better than the orthotics, which I no longer wear, and I am back to being able to walk comfortably for a few years now. In my case what worked were proper shoes, first, and a splint (about $60).
What are proper shoes? Most important feature is a very, very wide toe box. Second is a “zero drop” sole. Zero drop takes a “breaking in” period (important!!!!). I only wear Altra shoes now, they claim to be foot-shaped and are, though not all styles are wide enough. Before I had my problems, for years, I was wearing the widest-toe shoes/boots I knew of, Merrells and Keens, usually. But these aren’t wide enough and aren’t foot-shaped. They still deformed my feet.
I wore the toe splints for over a year, but no longer need them. I also wore toe socks, and still do. These appear to keep my toes splayed, which is what helps correct the problems. I also wear shoes a couple sizes larger than I thought I needed, and that the shoe store thought I needed. Also, they always measured me at a medium width. It is quite amazing how good my feet are now.
In the summer I can wear the widest crocs and/or Birkenstock sandals. Again, these are more foot-shaped and zero drop. If you search “correct toes” in youtube you’ll see some other videos, and there is also a recommended list of shoes on their website, though the Altras seem best for working on concrete, etc. You can buy Altras in many places, so you can try them on. Depending on your foot, others may work better, but if you are standing in a shop, you likely need more cushioning than many of the shoes on the list have.
Tool Of The Trade
Drill bits don’t break or get dull because they are cheap. They get dull because of heat and improper drilling speeds to the materials being cut. They snap because of poor chip clearance and bearing down too hard. Cutting oil and coolants are made for a reason. Chip clearance is key. Knowing how to sharpen drill bits is a good thing to know (59 ° is the standard). You shouldn’t use a cobalt bit on anything other than metal. The harder the bit is, the easier it is to snap. Except for masonry bits which are great for drilling very hard steel. I’m not a knife guy, so I’ll stick to the razors. I don’t wear boots unless I’m digging or if I have a lot of concrete work to do. I like my Nike. Most residential work doesn’t require boots. Safety gear is a no brainer. Good ratchets are tricky to find. For me, I prefer fine tooth with the lowest arc swing I can get. I also like the extendable handled ones. It eliminates the need for a breaker and most of the time a cheater. I’ve got some snap on, cornwell, proto, vintage craftsman, Dewalt (which I really like) and some others. The one I use the most believe it or not is the $20 Stanley ratchet from Walmart. Yes, Walmart. Yes, $20. It’s well made and very comfortable to use. My only gripe is that it’s not a fine tooth.
Stuart
Lesser metal or less careful heat treatment CAN result in lower strength and easier breakage.
Bob
My problem with cheap drill bits is not getting dull, but chipping and breaking. When a bit breaks through thin metal, even aluminum or soft steel, it gets a sudden shock. Cheap bits are far more likely to chip or break when that happens.
Got a small set of bits from Harbor Freight years ago for $3.95, and they lasted for years. I still have a few of them. It’s not the price that makes them good of bad, it’s the metal. I can just look at a bit and feel it, and instantly tell if it’s HSS or junk metal. Those were definitely HSS. They didn’t get dull, took the shock, drilled into harder metal that alloy bits wouldn’t drill.
Jacob W Flynn
Great post! My family has always had our own list of items we will not go cheap on and, like your post, it includes shoes and socks. Spending a little extra cash upfront on a good pair of work-boots that will protect your toes and support your feet will far outweigh the negatives associated with cheap boots that will hurt your feet and need replacing soon after purchase.
Paul
One of the things I learned about drill bits in college-level machine shop class…although not all TiN (titanium nitride) drill bits are crap, the 99% that are give the other 1% a bad name. Walk through any big box store and you’ll find nothing but TiN. You can tell because they have a beautiful gold color which barely coats a total crap underlying cheap drill bit. And once I sharpen it the first time, that pretty gold is gone and all I’ve got left is a cheap drill. TiN coating over crap is still crap, even before I sharpen it.
Cobalt is nice on hardened steel but makes it more brittle and again, it’s mostly a coating. A good industrial grade high speed steel drill will sneeze wood, chew up aluminum, fly through mild steel, and go through stainless without dulling.
The biggest problem I run into? I’ve got at least one partner who just doesn’t get it that when the bit is screaming, you’re going too fast. It cuts fastest and best if you are just above the speed where it chatters and it won’t get rocket hot and utterly destroy the heat treatment, turning it into a crap drill after that.
That being said you can go to the big industrial suppliers (McMaster, MSC, one of the machine shop suppliers, NOT Grainger) or usually even Amazon and get a set up to 1/2″ for around $80. Biggest trick is to look for “jobber” drills…most of the cheap vendors don’t even know what that word means. It means a specific length which is the standard industrial length. And look closely to see if it says “TiN” or has a gold color. If it does, move on. Real drills should be pretty boring, dull colored even.
With that being said, unless all you do is wood work (in which case forget everything I just said…it doesn’t apply to you), if it says “Dewalt” or “Milwaukee” or any other typical power tool name on the side, MOVE ON. I will make a very tiny exception for hole saws because that’s a saw blade and for whatever reason those same names seem to understand saw blades but not drills. But that’s it, the one and only exception. I have box after box of blue, red, and yellow cases of drills that I inherited or bought in a pinch for one reason or another and they’re all junk. But next day shipping is still next day, and it gets even harder if you are out in the boonies in Appalachia somewhere and you’re limited to either the local feed and seed or the Lowes or Ace an hour away. Given enough pressure and cussing the cheap bits will work (maybe after burning up a couple) but they’re still cheap bits.
Bob
Paul, TiN coating neither helps nor hurts drill bits in normal use. In severe, heavy-duty industrial use, it improves lubricity and wear about 15%. Most tradesmen and do-it-yourself’ers can’t produce these conditions. A hand drill simply can’t generate enough power and precision in tough, heat-treated steel to benefit from a little better lubricity. Even most drill presses won’t benefit from TiN. So I think we agree it’s a marketing gimmick. It’s all about what’s under the lipstick.
But yea, it’s not a good idea to cheap out on drills. They are the last thing on the list I would cheap out on. I have a 29pc set of cobalt I use often, and they never fail to drill the toughest material. I never use them on my hand drills, I use HSS from my miscellaneous collection there because it’s easy to get one pinched and break it. Don’t want to make a hole in my good set. 🙂
Tim
I’ll second cheap knifes.
I hacked myself up pretty good twice with a Gerber Paraframe before I threw it out.
On cheap ratchets you should add the Harbor Freight composite and pro series ratchets to your test list or list of acceptable tools. The composite ratchets are now my go to unless I need a low profile and I grab the pro series.
Everyone should know not to buy cheap shoes and should understand there is a difference between a $150 pair of shoe store branded shoes and for instance a $150 pair of red wings or other exclusive shoe company/specifically work branded shoes too.