Chances are, you’ve used hex keys – or Allen wrenches – before. Have you ever used ball hex keys? Ball end hex key sets offer the best of both worlds – a ball hex end on the long arm, and a straight hex end on the short side.
We’ve talked about the benefits of ball end hex drivers before. Basically, the ball end allows for off-axis engagement of a fastener. With a straight hex driver or end, you don’t have much flexibility.
The ball end allows you to approach and engage a fastener at a slight angle, the straight end can handle greater torque, and with a far lower risk of damage to the tool or fastener.
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If I had to buy a new hex key set right now, which would I buy?
(All of the sets mentioned here come with both inch and metric sizes. All stated prices are as of the time of this posting.)
Budget-Friendly: Tekton
I’ve used cheap hex keys before, and the world didn’t stop spinning. Still, for more than occasional use, or for important tasks, I’d seek out a “brand name” tool.
Tekton’s set is about as inexpensive as things can get. The 26 piece set comes out to less than 50 cents per set.
I don’t believe I’ve tried Tekton hex tools yet, but I purchased an assortment of their tools a few years ago, and I liked what I saw. They’ve also sent samplings since then, and I’ve been very impressed with those tool.
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Tekton has earned a good reputation for decent quality affordable tools, and I have heard good things about their customer service too.
For a budget-friendly set, I’d trust Tekton to get things right.
Price: $11-12 for the 26pc set (model 25282)
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Very Good: Bondhus (Made in USA)
My first experience with Bondhus tools was with their ball end hex screwdrivers. So when it came time for me to buy a new set of metric hex keys, I gave them a shot. That was 11.5 years ago, when I went with a 1.5mm to 6mm set with bright finish.
Since then, I’ve bought a couple more Bondhus hex key sets, several Bondhus T-handle sets, and more Bondhus screwdrivers.
Don’t let the “good” description throw you off. Bondhus hex keys and hex tools are very well built. They might be the last hex tools you ever need.
In addition to great quality and reasonable pricing, they’re made in the USA.
I like the BriteGuard and GoldGuard finish drivers for hex keys, as they’re easier to clean and feel better in-hand. But I have no qualms about using the black ProGuard finish hex keys either – I have a set of those too.
Price: $24 for the 22pc set (model 20399)
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Better: Wiha
I have two sets of Wiha MagicRing hex key sets. Would I get MagicRing again? Yes, or at least maybe, for some things. But for general use? I think these non-screw-retaining versions would serve me better.
See Also: Pros and Cons of Wiha MagicRing Screw Retention Feature
Aside from some difficulty I once had when accessing socket head screws in really right spaces at a steep angle, my Wiha hex keys have been great.
The newest set has very handy-looking easy-access tool holders.
There were a few times when I pushed my Wiha hex keys to what should have beyond their limits, but they never gave up.
I haven’t taken micrometer measurements or anything like that, but I would think the Wiha hex tips to be a little more precise than the other hex key sets mentioned so far.
Price: $45-$50 for the 22pc set (model 66982)
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Best: PB Swiss Tools
PB Swiss Tools aren’t for those with small budgets, medium budgets, or even what you might think is a sizable budget.
I bought my first PB Swiss Tools hex keys from Amazon, over the course of several months, back when they dramatically discounted PB Swiss products. A set was too pricey, so I watched individual listings and put together a small set of low-profile metric hex keys.
This is them – my low-profile PB Swiss metric problem-solvers.
A few years later, I finally bought my first set. And then another. Those two sets were a rainbow-colored set of inch-sized ball hex keys at introductory pricing, and a smaller set of metric hex keys, also color-coded.
Since then, I ordered a second set of inch hex keys.
If you wait until Black Friday or Cyber Monday, they’re still expensive, but a little less so. That “once a year” sale pricing business can really lead one to throw caution and budgetary considerations to the wind.
I often work with a ton of hex fasteners (dozens, sometimes hundreds), and by hand. For a small adjustment or two, or a small project, the choice of hex keys isn’t crucial. But for bigger projects, PB Swiss’s exceptionally good fitment can make things easier.
I don’t really need these tools. But they are a pleasure to use. Can I tell these apart in a blind test? I’d bet I could.
I have yet to have the ball hex tip slip within a fastener, something that has happened with other ball hex tools.
When I have trouble with other hex tools slipping in a shallow fastener, such as when using a straight hex tip in a slightly rounded or damaged button socket head screw, these are the tools that’ll save the day.
A 21pc set that includes color-coded inch and metric long ball hex keys will hurt your wallet to the tune of $166.
Price: $166
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So Which to Buy?
If you need a hex key set to fill a hole in your tool box, go with Tekton. I’m sure they’re fine for occasional use, even regular use.
If you want to be pushed in one direction, I’d say go Bondhus. They’re very good, and won’t drain your tool budget too much. And as mentioned, they’re made in the USA.
Splurge on the Wiha if you’ve got a gift card burning a hole in your pocket or if you think you might need higher precision fitment.
If you’ve had your eyes on PB Swiss, you’ll LOVE them, you just won’t love paying for them out of your own pocket. If you’re not sure why you might need tools of that caliber, you can probably get by with something else.
Actually, if you have $150+ to spend and aren’t sure whether to buy PB Swiss, you could pick up a whole lot of other hex tools that might serve you better, such as a set of ball end hex keys, T-handle drivers, screwdriver-handled ball end drivers, and even precision drivers.
What makes a better hex tool? Well, I’ve broken hex keys before, but never Bondhus, Wiha, or PB Swiss, at least not yet. They’re hardened, but also a little springy when needed. They also fit better, which is important when working with smaller sizes that cannot tolerate a lot of slop, but also larger sizes which might require high torque.
There are many other brands that are just as recommendable. What’s your pick?
fred
So if your buying for the International Space Station where buggering up a socket head screw might be a big deal – then the cost of a PB Swiss set might seem a good deal.
Otherwise – another alternative (I use Bondhus) would do just fine.
How about a Wera Hex-Plus set or two as another alternative:
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05073593001-Multicolor-Metric-Blacklaser/dp/B07BNJQ8XM/
https://www.amazon.com/Wera-05022639001-L-key-Set-SPKL-imperial/dp/B01H88FP24/
Stuart
Or working on custom screws, expensive machinery (or lab equipment), or if you work with a lot of hex fasteners.
A couple of seconds of extra frustration when you have 100’s of hex fasteners to work on can add up fast, in terms of time and fatigue.
I’ll never regret my PB Swiss hex key purchases, but it’s hard to recommend them to others knowing that they’re not worth more than 3X the expense for most users.
Tim E.
I have Wera hex keys in both plain finish and the rainbow set, along with a couple Wiha sets, both without the screw holding, and they’re pretty on par with each other. Never stripped a fastener with either one. I like the Wera rainbow ones the best of all of them, my only peeve is the metric come in the “regular” holder, the inch come in a pouch. Sometimes I like the pouch, so I got an extra set of the inch and moved a metric set into it, but if they’re going in a toolbox, the pouch takes up too much space and I’d rather have them in the regular holder. But all in all I’d buy either Wera or Wiha equally, and I agree they’re both a slight step above bondhus.
Honestly I wouldn’t go much below bondhus if you’re doing critical work. We had a set of Tekton hex keys that we used for a while, and on larger fasteners they were fine. There are some small set screws in shaft collars that we use frequently, and loosen/over tighten a lot, and the Tekton ones stripped those out semi quickly. Not as quick as the Husky and Stanley folding key sets we used before, but markedly worse than the bondhus. I think the screws on those are made of pretty weak metal, and the students definitely overtighten some of them to try to use the collar to hold things structurally together. But we do go longer between stripping a collar out using the bondhus keys they have now, or my Wiha ones that I take in, than with the Tekton, so match quality of key to your frequency of use and application.
Tim E.
Meant to say never stripped a fastener unexpectedly with either the Wera or Wiha, there have been screws on the verge that I would fully expect to strip that have, or if I’m obviously completely abusing it and overpower the metal of the screw head. But both the Wera and Wiha have been able to remove screws that I figured were goners that other sets you can feel won’t have the fit and grip on the screw to remove it.
Jkr.
I agree. Allen screws tend to round due to shallow corners, so I wouldn’ t use cheap keys. Bondhus are the minimum.
I also second Wera Hex-plus. These are my go-to hex keys. I like the profile which tends to grip better. I have Bondhus and PB, and one Wiha key.
While Wera keys are more flexible then Wiha or PB, which gives a less confident feeling, I never had one actually break or slip.
PB are cheaper ordered from Europe, for example from werk10.com, which I have good experience with.
rodtak
I am committed to the Wera Hex-Plus! They are the only ones I have used that have never stripped out a fastener head. That’s saying something in the years I have used them in the machine shop and then doing assembly work. Never broken one either.
csroc
I’ve heard really good stuff about Wera’s.
The oldest inch and metric sets I have are from Bondhus, although one is missing a wrench that I should really look for a replacement for.
Months back I bought inch and metric Wiha keys on sale for my other toolbox and I like them a lot. No, they don’t have the retaining ring (I thought about getting those) and they don’t have the fancy swivel unlock case thing, but the wrenches themselves are solid and have served me well.
William
Gotta agree with the Bondhus, it’s my go to set, keep a few sets around. I like the Wera ones as well, but much more expensive, and not sure it it’s worth it.
aerodawg
I’m sold on the Bondhus after buying them. Because of the nature of my machine tools, I work in a mixture of SAE and metric almost constantly, so the ability to look at a single key laying on the bench and know if it’s SAE or metric by the finish is fantastic.
Cole M
Love my Bondhus sets as well, although last week I broke the ball off the 1/8” wrench. Admittedly I was using an adjustable as a “cheater” on the wrench. The non ball end is for torquing. Great wrenches!
Gary
Thanks Stuart … I really appreciate posts like these. One brand that never is never discussed is Eklind. Eklind allen wrenches are rebranded by Snap-On, and they seem to be priced similar to Bondhus. Any thoughts?
Stuart
I’ve heard good things about Eklind, and I’ve looked at their offerings a couple of times over the years, but I haven’t tried them yet.
fred
Elkind seems to be a bit less visible in the market – but we had some of their early fold-up keys that were OK for what they were. Made in USA (Illinois) too.
Another brand of folding hex keys that we had was Chesco. Ours were made in the USA. I think Chesco got absorbed by Irwin (now part of SBD) when Newell owned that brand. I’m not sure that the brand is still in use.
Scott
Where I’m at, I see Eklind in several places, from auto parts stores, to the local Tru-Value and Ace stores. The only place I have seen Bondhus is at the local AutoValue parts store.
fred
I guess I was wrong about visibility. I’ve seen Bondhus on display at Home Depot. I never go to any auto parts places and the Ace and True Value stores are pretty far away from my places – so I might have missed seeing a lot of Elkind.
William Adams
Elkind seems to have been the manufacturers of hex keys for the _Popular Mechanics_ brand sold at Wal-Mart ages ago — my sets (Imperial and metric) which I bought in college have worked perfectly.
salmon
The way the Wiha holders flip all the keys out is invaluable to me. You might save 1/2 a second on average by getting a set of PB Swiss keys due to the better fit, but you still have to deal with the 5-30 seconds of fumbling around with that goddamned holder trying to get the right size out.
Ryan
I’ve recently bought a set of the Wiha hex wrenches pictured and was impressed with the holder that they came in. Rotating one hex key rotates them all, so they lay flat or rotate to come out all at once. It’s a nice touch to have for somebody planning to keep them in the holder.
ktash
For a budget set, I agree about Tekton. Better than the Husky, Stanley, etc. I don’t use these enough to warrant a higher cost, but if there’s a good deal on the Bondhus ones, I’ll be inclined to try them.
Wayne R.
I find myself always puzzled by the “higher precision fitment” premise, as if the heads of 20 million 10-cent screws or 50-cent bolts are more precisely made than several thousand more expensive but “normal” bits/tools.
Whether Phillips, Torx, Hex, etc., it just seems like super precise drivers are presented as a better fit to what have to be sorta random heads – which seems fundamentally unsupportable by the numbers involved. (Though ball-end hex keys seem, to my instinct, to be an easy exception.)
Am I missing something?
fred
We had a job working on a big industrial park – doing sewer and drain lines. The precast manhole chimneys, rings and covers were supplied to us. The rings and covers seemed to have come to us in pairs. We found that some covers did not fit some rings and vice versa. They all came from some foundry in India – perhaps had been sand cast with sloppy tolerances and then hand ground to mate. We pointed this out to the general contractor and property owner – and were told to match them up and install them.
William
I am not sure how much experience you have had using cheap tools on cheap fasteners, but in the real world most everyone will agree that a cheepo allen key rounds over fasteners, twists, and gets ruined. Whereas a nice quality tool works well and will last for years.
Try using a no name/Harbor freight #2 Philips driver on a very tight/stuck screw, you will often round over that faster real quick, unlike a nice quality Screwdriver.
fred
As a young newlywed – I bought an assortment of wood screws at a local bargain store (no Home Depot back then) – figuring how bad could they be for odd jobs around our apartment. Well, I found out how bad they were. The drive slots or Phillips-style recesses could not take much torque at all before being deformed. The only thing I saved was the plastic compartment box they came in.
Kent
Wrenches and sockets cannot be undersized, and hex keys can’t be oversized. So each company has to make a determination of how close the tolerance is.
Cheap tools will have a larger tolerance for over/under size than expensive tools (in general, and I’m sure there are exceptions). Additionally, metallurgy and heat treating cost money.
A prime example was many years ago when I was rehabbing an old Walker-Turner jointer. The knife retaining bolts were frozen, and my 5/16″ Craftman wrench was just rounding over he heads. My brother handed me a Snap-On wrench of the same size. I rolled my eyes at him but tried it anyway. It fit tighter than the CMan, and easily loosened the bolts.
Stuart
There are differences in fastener heads, too. I ordered a selection of “value” fasteners so that I can have sizes on-hand should immediate needs arise, but for fabrication projects I’ll order from McMaster Carr or specific USA brands from Zoro.
Fitting good driver tips to good screws can make a world of difference compared to fitting a less precise tip to a cheap screw.
Sometimes it matters, sometimes it doesn’t. That’s why I say that the Bondhus tools might be the last a lot of people might need. They’re a solid upgrade compared to cheaper tools, and provide enough strength, durability, and precision that a lot of users won’t benefit from spending more.
Nathan
I’ve used ball end keys since I got into RC cars has a kid in HS so 25 year now. My first set was bondus – I’ve broken a few on real cars not RC cars. Right now I have Bondus and I have a set of Elkind that was given to me.
Never stripped out a head using the bondus – so I don’t understand all the comments about better precision heads etc why you should spend more for wila or pbswiss. I’ve never had issue one.
Now I will say this though – when I notice one of the keys is starting to wear – I replace them. Even then I don’t know that I’ve gone though more than a 3 sets over the years. metric is the most common for me.
BUT I also use bit inserts as often as I can.
Mike S
Thanks for the update.
One question on the topic though:
So – why don’t hex “keys” come as 1/4″ insert blades? Why invent all sorts of t-handle, l-handle, etc styles. Wouldn’t we all be better off, if they were just – 1/4″ ends (and the appropriate hex size on the other) and choose your length and head style (regular, ball, ball w/ ring, etc)? You could throw it into any t-handle, ratchet handle, etc you chose then. And, if they wanted to make it so that anyone could use them – they could ship sets with a basic plastic t-handle which would suffice for light duty work handling simple needs.
Stuart
They do have those.
With ball hex, it’s an issue because you could use a smaller bit with a high-torque handle to disastrous consequences if the ball end shears off in the faster recess.
Other times, you might need to access a socket head cap screw or set screw that’s in a recess. That gets harder to do if you have a shorter length 1/4″ hex bit.
I use straight hex 1/4″ screwdriver bits on occasion. When there’s limited swing clearance, such bits are great when used with small bit ratchets or even 1/4″ ratchets with bit holder adapters.
A bit holder is good for when you have irregular needs and you want maximum versatility.
There are times when I need to work with several hex sizes back and forth. It would be cost-prohibitive to buy several bit holders of the same size, and it would be a hassle to swap between bits back and forth. I’d also be almost guaranteed to lose at least one bit.
Similarly, why do they sell different sizes and styles of screwdrivers, instead of just bit holders and interchangeable sets being popular?
We’ve talked about this before a little here: https://14cyiuhvcgv.com/screwdrivers-vs-bit-holders/%3C/a%3E%3C/p%3E
Mike S
Well,
Anyone can just grab a pair of pliers / adjustable wrench and easily latch onto the body of the hex key and torque the heck out of it (ball end or not). So – I think the disastrous consequences come from misusing the tool, not the tool design.
And – I feel like a lot of opinions on this topic are tainted by the use of 1/4″ bits (and often someone’s experience with low quality drivers and low quality bits).
I understand that there are people that have need for having multiple handles (or even possibly a handle on every tool). But – one can buy as many handles as they want (which, may or may not turn out cost prohibitive if you’re first spending more money on drivers with dedicated handles in the first place).
1/4″ blades (with well designed and solidly locking ends) – can be designed exactly the same as any dedicated hex (or torx or pick your fastener type) tool is.
Want a phillips style, with a round blade and a knurled section near the tip and a large hex section for grabbing with a wrench – then, make the blade that way just like there are dedicated screwdrivers meeting this description.
What I feel people underestimate the most or don’t consider much and is a reason why I personally prefer dedicated handles and then specific blades – is that space is the most expensive thing. Dedicated handles taking up an inordinate amount of space is the most costly part (both in terms of shipping and storage) because of its huge size relative to the unique part. A set of 3″ long blades can be very neatly packed and carried. So, by forgoing units with built in handles I can own and store a much wider variety of blades to meet a much larger set of needs – and in a fraction of the space.
Plus – I can choose the appropriate handle for the task.
Then I’m maximizing my spend with handles/drivers that fit my hands and my needs the best and the blades to fit the fasteners I encounter/use.
A locking blade in a well designed handle provides *me* a much better experience.
Mike S
People don’t generally have dedicated sockets, right? Why is it that a socket set with the ratchet of choice is an acceptable a no-brainer, but when it comes sticking the tool into the fastener and turning your wrist – everything needs a dedicated handle/all-in-one tool as opposed to a modular system? That preference has just always baffled me.
And yes, I know that there are dedicated wrenches for dedicated sizes. But – those are generally used by people with very specific needs. And frankly – those sets store in less space than the ones with handles and you insert the end into the fastener. Flat wrenches have a big storage advantage over the bulky round handles.
Josh
Ever need to get a bit down 2″ deep into a narrow hole, and all you have are 1/4″ hex bits?
Mike S
@Josh – no, because I use 1/4″ drive blades that are 3″ long – so, I can easily insert the blade into the deeply recessed fastener…
This was part of my point – everyone thinks that 1/4″ drive means bits – and bits require a larger tip right at the end. That’s fine for surface work but a bad overall design.
So – with the blade only being 1/4″ where it inserts, and the rest of the blade being only as large the tip – so long as the recess isn’t longer than my blade, I don’t have any problems ever.
fred
The idea of blades that fit into different handles is what made Xcelite’s business. The Xcelite hex blades are indeed the same hex size all the way down the shaft – right up to the connector that snaps into the handle. Sometimes that works out – but on thinner blades they can get a bit bendy. I’m not sure who started the interchangeable blade idea – but I recall Xcellite traces their history back to the 1920’s. As a kid – my father had a Vaco set – but the TV repairmen (remember those guys who came to the house) all seemed to use Xcelite .
Wiha, Wera and others have taken the interchangeable idea further with handles and blades of different dimensions – from sort of the micro to mini to full-sized.
Meanwhile insert bits (1 inch or 25mm long) come in various hex sizes. I’ve seen 4mm hex, the ubiquitous 1/4 hex – plus larger 5/16, 3/8 and 7/16 hex. There are also “half cut” (Vim makes these) or stubby bits and longer bits for power drive or hand use. the power drive bits usually have a curved recess to work with a ball detent holder in the power tool chuck. There are also security varieties with a center hole to accommodate a security pin in the center of the socket screw recess. I’ve seen metric sizes as small as 0.71mm and as large as 12mm with 1/4 hex drive. Inch-size 1/4-hex insert bits seem to range from 1/16 in. (0.028 to 0.050 is available for 4mm hex) to 3/8 inch.
Socket wrench hex drivers also seem to come in straight and ball end – with different length shafts. I’ve seen a 1/4 inch drive socket with a hex inserts of 0.050. 3/4 inch square drive impact sockets come with hex ends as large as 1.25 inches. Metric hex sockets seem to range from 2mm to 30mm. There may be larger sizes too for 3/4 or 1 inch socket dives and bolts on large machinery – although a 1-1/4 inch hex recess would seem to imply a very large socket head bolt.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-45065-4-Inch-Driver-Impact/dp/B006L2372Y
Alex
You can do that with a ratchet and an hex to square adapter. Wera sells some zyklop kit that includes hex bits for instance.
Both are practical just like having a bit holder and dedicated screwdrivers is.
I think a ratchet is best in terms of mobility. At my place though, I prefer to have a dedicated l keys and p keys set just like I like having dedicated screwdrivers. I use the p keys when I have enough clearance. Otherwise, I switch back to the more common l keys.
Stuart
I did have a Craftsman L-wrench that came with different bit tips, but the magnet popped out the first time I tried to use it.
I also have a couple of Engineer Inc bit holders – https://14cyiuhvcgv.com/iheartengineering-engineer-l-wrench-driver-deal-102013/%3C/a%3E – from when they were being clearanced out. But hex keys almost always work out better for me.
satch
Agree about fastener head tolerances for certain things. When you are dealing with 1 million dollar 300 tonne air conditioning chiller, the fasteners are of substantially better materials and finish tolerances. Same with medical equipment or other precision instruments. Use good quality driverd andmwrenches on them.
As for the PB Swiss, yes they are like SnapOn. Pricey and worth it for some things. Probably over priced for the task to hand with others. I will say this. Afterma few decades of working on commercial and industrial electrical, HVAC, and other associated systems, I would say poorly fitted hex, torx, and Philips drivers were one of the most aggravating…and common issues we dealt with. Hex fasteners particularly seemed to deform atnthenworstmpossible moment.
If I were headed back to mechanical skilled trades today I would certainly use Bondhus, Wiha, and Wera and be happy. But if that 160 set Stuart pointed out was avaialble and I had the budget? I’d buy it in a hearbeat.
Hilton
What I like about the Wera coloured set I have is the built-in magnetizer/demagnetizer.
The finish is superb.
Brian A
Wife is on trip to Germany and a set of the Wiha’s are on her tool shopping list for me if she can find cheaper than here.
What I just realized I need is a set of ball hex impact bits to use in a drill, does anyone make them?
Stuart
There are some impact-rated hex bits, but sockets seem to be more popular.
Redcastle
I am curious as to the circumstances in which you would want to use a ball end hex driver in an impact power tool given that hex heads are used where control is preferred given that they were the alternative to slotted screws and the ball end bits are supposed to allow access at an angle which is almost the non definition of an impact driver.
TonyT
Ball end in a driver, sure, I’ve been playing with these at work using my Bosch pocket drivers with appropriate clutch settings (along with straight hex bits, too).
Impact driver, on the other hand, doesn’t make sense, especially for ball end. However, if you had to do it, maybe using an impact rated torsion bit holder (such as this Makita https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/B-35106 ) between bit and driver might help a bit, by absorbing some of the impact.
My recollection is that Allen popularized the hex key, and Bondhus claims to have invented the ball end, so hex screws were used well before ball ends existed.
Like Edward, below, we use mostly (like >90%) stainless steel hex fasteners in our machines since the very beginning, and it’s very useful to have ball end drivers. I’m not sure Torx screws and bolts, for example, are available in the same range of sizes, and Torx ball ends certainly aren’t as available (likes like mainly Wera makes them).
I’ve been happy with my >20 year old Bondhus sets, but they’re boring black, so I have to say the newer colored sets are pretty, and would help telling sizes apart.
Brian A
The convertible cribs my kids have have hex bolts and I am to lazy to use a hex key. There is about 3″ of space because of the slats.
Stripped many on the first 2 rounds. Used my hex ratchet the last round, as I don’t have hex ball wrenches.
A hex ball bit in a drill or another power tool would of made my life so much easier.
Redcastle
Brian A
In my response to your earlier post it was the word “impact” that threw me, I do have ball ended hex bits (Wera if I remember correctly) which I use in either a Bosch IXO or MX2 low voltage drill driver on assembly projects.
One o the reasons I first bought an IXO was waching in horror as a hex bit in a 14,4v DeWalt driver (this was pre 18V) reshaped a bed frame post because I had forgotten to minimise the torque setting.
Unless it was for everyday use I am sure the Wera bits even if not impact rated would survive.
Mike S
@Brian A … I totally agree – Hex Ball bit/blade that can be inserted into anything w/a 1/4″ drive (I personally prefer the locking) is exactly what I wish existed. Alas, I can’t find what I really want – I can find 3″ long blades (not ball end) or any number of varieties of ball-end: l-key; w/ a handle; etc….
fred
My tool buying days are pretty much over – with the exception of gift buying.
But the last time I was in Germany I bought a son-in-law one of Wera socket set – that he had on a wish list. It was a hard to find (as I was mostly in touristy areas) – but I got it. I had suggested Stahlwille based on their reputation – but he wanted Wera.
DannyK
Wiha made them:
* singles: https://www.wihatools.com/bits/standard-bits/ball-end-hex/magicringr-ball-end-hex-metric-power-bit-single-pack
* or set: https://www.wihatools.com/magicring-ball-end-hex-power-bit-belt-pack
TonyT
Just browsing the Bondhus web site, and their socket bits are impact rated. I noticed, however, that they only do straight Torx socket bits. At a glance, I couldn’t verify if their bits and blades are impact rated.
BTW, they do offer ball end Torx L-wrenches.
Redcastle
I was concerned for a while that PB Swiss might be like London Fog a US company flying under a European name however it does appear to be Swiss, further confusion is that the few tools listed on Amazon UK which seems to be the only source are mostly from US based third party sellers at truly extraordinary prices.
Stuart I suspect that you need this type of tool enough in your everyday work to warrant buying the tool you feel most happy with regardless of cost and that is the correct call for you, for me as it would seem for most people the Wera rainbow or not set does just fine. WIHA here tends to be more common with electrical orientated suppliers and Wera with construction.
RCWard
Got to say dude. Tecton tools are junk in my experiance with them. Just a fact. You get what you pay for with that brand to say the least.
Joren
I love the Hex-Plus drivers I’ve got from Wera – the only thing I’ve ever found consistently fit right and don’t strip out fastners. Does anyone else make ones like them?
Thanks!
Edward
I disagree about Wiha (Magic Ring type) being better. I had this set for 7 months, and ending up selling it on eBay with a disclosure that the set had issues. Although the ring does it job, it didn’t hold up after everyday use. And yes I know how to use hex keys properly, I work on semiconductor equipment performing maintenance and repair. 95% of fasteners are hex on a tool (machine). I had sent the set back (both metric and SAE..even though the metric set was used 90% of the time, to warranty. But the new set still didn’t fair after a month and half). The MR set, contrary to what was promoted by Wiha, did wear and only slightly held the screw. A slight wiggle, would send a screw into the abyss, not something I want when working above a molecular turbo pump (a vertical version of a airline jet engine).
On the opposite end the spectrum, Bondhus has their Pro Hold hex keys, which I have been using for over a year now, and these work fantastic. These are superior in my opinion and the cost factor was much better than Wiha. I looked into the Wera set for their holding feature, but they only offer it in Metric.
I own a Wera PK950 set (non color) in metric and SAE. I love these, but they are too long for some of my use. They have however, as advertised, removed hex screws short of using a hex socket on them, when other keys couldn’t. I would like to buy these in a mid length.
I also own a set of PB Swiss 2212’s. These are great for clearance issue screws, but I wouldn’t covet them as being more precise. I’m still unsure how all these write up’s praise PB Swiss for making “the best” hex keys, when in truth Bondhus makes tools which are just as good, have better wear characteristics and cost a fraction what PB Swiss makes. It seems to me like a case of European tools are better, and if it costs more, it must be better. People have to stop with the obsession with name brands. If something works just as good, and it costs less…then I buying that tool. It’s a tool, not jewelry. I have a set of stubby Husky keys (made in China) that I use to remove SMC control valves under a tool. I haven’t found a decent manufacturer who makes a complete metric set this short (4.5mm etc). I haven’t rounded these out. I know the limitations of a hex key, so it’s why they have lasted for quite some time in my use.
Best is Bondhus
Better is Wera
Very Good is PB Swiss
Budget is Husky/Harbor Freight
Patrick McIntosh
I have a set of Allen brand Allan Keys. The brand is/was owned by Apex Tool Group who decided to drop the brand name?????? I can’t work out why they did that. The products are good, really good, they were well priced and they work. I am probably the worst DIYer in the world, I can break anything without too much effort, I can destroy quality brand tools in the blink of an eye. I have had other hex key sets over the years however the Allen product has outlasted even my best efforts to either damage the fasteners I am trying to get out or the product itself. Plus it’s a great name Allen Allen Keys.
Patrick McIntosh
Top line should read Allen brand Allen Keys, big fingers….
fred
Allen is one of those brand names that became almost synonymous with the product – akin to Xerox or Band-Aid. I never heard anything other then “Allen Wrench – until some years ago when “hex-key” started showing up in the vernacular.
Nathan
I was about to say in America as far as I know, Allen brand was the first company to make and market a set of socket head hex wrenches/drivers. Such that they used to sell them as a set of keys on a key ring as a promotional set. My dad still has one that way – they are bound by the long end so you really can only use the short end.
Bondus was the first USA make I can think of that started making ball ends on their L-keys. while others made ball end drivers that you would find marketed to hobbyists.
But that’s what I remember – your mileage may vary.
Redcastle
Fred
the Allen company made a big fuss over here a few years ago over the misuse of their corporate property by other firms and this led to hex becoming (correctly) used in place of Allen given that people preferred the Wera in particular and then the plethora of other European manufacturers manufcturing hex keys and bits so both the use of the term Allen and people purchasing Allen’s product dropped.
While I can understand people (particularly lawyers looking for a fee) being upset about a trade name being generic you do miss out on the default sales that will arise when a customer asks for Allen keys and you reach for the Allen company product first which disappears when the customer asks for hex keys in which case you reach for the set which gives you the higher margin.
John S
I have the Wiha MagicRing hex key sets and find that their sizing is quite tight while my Bondhus and Eklind sets seem just perfect fit. That Wiha set was pricey.
Diplomatic Immunity
I would stick with Bondhus, Wiha, and Wera. I believe another site that deals with bicycle repair tested a whole bunch of top brand hex keys (multiple sets from each brand) and their tolerances and Bondhus had some of the best tolerances when considering the price. Don’t get me wrong I love PB Swiss but I don’t think in this case they’re measurably better for the price you pay.
William Adams
My father had a Thorp ball-end hex driver w/ screwdriver handle which I remember fondly as being excellent to work with — apparently still available from Moore Ideal Products and well-regarded in the RC community.
I have Bondhus and Wera hex keys in my EDC bag, (the latter ’cause I couldn’t get Brightguard Gold ball-end short hex keys in metric — seem to’ve been discontinued), and have a pair of Popular Mechanics brand sets I bought when I was in college and on a budget in my toolbox.
Did indulge in a set of ball-end Bondhus driver bits in metric (again, for the EDC bag), and have a PB Swiss bike tool which I keep in a pouch on my bike which has wonderful quality bits (and has me wanting to buy more PB Swiss stuff).
B
Wera are on par with PB Swiss and cost about as much as Bondhus but are far superior in fitment then Bondhus and a bit better than Whia . I would never ever recommend Bondhus to anyone ever they are sub part tools now they were at a time ok not now, Eklind is far better and can usually be found in more places easily.
John
Bondhus get a lot of thumbs up. I will give them a go next time….but I also have 1/2″ Drive Hex Keys and I want to add more sizes. With Christmas coming, and enough hints I should see some 1/2″ Drive Hex Keys in the Christmas stocking….or a 22 piece Bondhus set.
Eric
This was a timely post for me. I picked up the Tekton set last week after I realized my old sets were somehow missing 7/64″ and a couple other sizes. They are fine but I am not thrilled with them.
I ordered the Bondhus set after reading this post, I wish I had seen it a week ago!
I have a number of the Wera Hex-Plus individual drivers, but I get those in the sizes I know I will have to use all the time.
Nathan
I’d like to see more on this slop comparison. I’ve used Bondus keys and due to a post up here I ordered a set of bondus power bits as that will be nifty.
I’ve never had a sloppy fit other than when I used the wrong size key. IE put an SAE in a metric or vice versa because I assumed the fitment type. (american branded furniture made in NC use all metric hex heads for example) and a few times when I just had craptastic hardware – one hobby motor I got came with horrible made screws
Otherwise on my bike, on my car, on other pieces snug but clean fitment – solid turning performance. So I’d like to see just how much difference you have here. Not saying it’s not possible because I know it is. I use Dewalt power philips (the max fit or ? they have a yellow band in them) because other phillips bits don’t engage as clean. (I’ve not bought shockwaves or makitas to try yet I got a bunch of dewalt ones and they aren’t worn out yet)
So I do agree it’s possible but for me the bondus ones have always done well. And no short of them turning the screws on their own there is no way I’m paying 166 dollars for a set of hex keys. 80, maybe if it’s complete size range.
Oh and as of yesterday I’m slightly interested in the MALCO keys too. Since they sell a set.
Stuart
There’s no way most people should spend more than $25 for a set of hex keys.
I like PB Swiss Tools, and don’t regret my purchases, but you’re not going to get 7X the performance at 7X the price over the Bondhus.
Redcastle
Nathan
Stuart is well known for his love of PS Swiss hex keys to the point where you can raise the topic as a distraction. as you used to do when a teacher was following a line of enquiry you did not want pursued (maybe just me).
Stuart
So that’s why you keep asking about them? Great.
Redcastle
Stuart
I thought you would have worked that out.
I am now going to try and acquire some PB Swiss tools so I can better understand your enthusiasm.
Jared
Would your recommendations be any different for Torx keys?
Stuart
I have Torx keys, but rarely use them.
I have a Beta set, from back when Amazon was clearancing them out, and a Wera set because I couldn’t pass up a good deal – https://14cyiuhvcgv.com/wera-9pc-ball-end-torx-key-set-deal/%3C/a%3E .
I use Torx insert bits and power bits more often than Torx hand tools, but when I use hand tools, I use Wiha for full-sized drivers and PB Swiss for all my mini or precision Torx needs. Most of my PB Swiss mini drivers were purchased on Amazon when they were being clearanced out, and I recently ordered precision screwdrivers when they were running a sale.
With hand tools, I probably work on at least 200 hex fasteners for every 1 Torx.
Redcastle
Stuart
Given the comments above regarding Allen vs hex, you should be aware that the company which invented Torx not only still exist but it sells Torx keys in its one name.
Vague memory says that the correct name for this type of head is a spline.
Stuart
I’ve seen several mentions that Torx requires licensing. Those that don’t license the brand describe their Torx-compatible tools as “star.”
Spline is a sort of modified 12pt shape, with trapezoidal-shaped teeth.
Redcastle
Stuart
I did say it was a was a vague memory so star may well be the answer.
I have not seen any indication that the Torx company is making the kind of fuss the Allen company did and may well be happy to receive sales where a customer asks for torx and is sold a Torx tool rather than a star tool.
The torx style head is becoming almost universal on higher end fixings over here, there was a similar head type called a spider which was being used on very heavy duty screws for exterior and framing work which was better but it disappeared overnight.
If all screwdrivers were made to fit as well as Engineer screwdrivers everyone might just have stayed with Philips style screws. I have the variant which includes blades for the Japanese style of Philips and the standard Philips and it makes using a hand screwdriver on a Philips head a pleasure rather than a chore.
fred
Over on Tool Talk – I did a post a while back on some of the odd 1/4 hex-drive bit styles I’ve collected over the years
https://discuss.toolguyd.com/t/1-4-inch-hex-drive-bits/267
Torx – aka “star” (when you don’t want to pay for a license) come in a few varieties – and tamperproof styles. Robertson – aka “square” when you won’t ante up for a license – also come in plain and tamperproof.
Wikipedia also has a page devoted to explaining different drive types:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives
Jared
Neat! I didn’t know ball-ended Torx drivers existed. Thanks for letting me know. Now I have to decide if that’s something I need…
Stuart
There are also ball-tip Robertson/square.
https://14cyiuhvcgv.com/bondhus-ball-head-square-screwdrivers/%3C/a%3E%3C/p%3E
Mike S
Since there’s been a lot of talk about people liking the painted keys – might want to watch this YouTube video first: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eRZjNYGHeRQ
The keys don’t seat properly, the paint seems to put the key out of tolerance…
Also – it will re-affirm the: cheapo have issues (but it matters more on smaller sizes and really only when over-torqued), and the bondhus/wera are much better tools…
Redcastle
My Wera rainbow set do not have colour on the business part of the tool though I have seen some less well known brands which do look they have just been thrown in a spray machine before being sent out.
This colour coding has caught on big time in the UK with some of the specialist tool retailers and they seem to be moving towards standardising the colours, thankfully the colour coding seems to be limited to rings rather than the whole tool, I do not want a tooldbox that looks like a kaleidascope.
Mike S
The video compares non-name, painted Bondhus (which have lots of problems being seated), and Wera w/ colored jackets. Just like you said – the Wera do not have anything interfering with the business end, and they came out on top in the comparison.
Redcastle
I am always wary of “shiny” particularly when it comes to items such as TIN drill bits where I always feel the decorative finish is being used to distract from the poor quality of the material used.
Initially I did not like the Wera rainbow because I thought the finish looked cheap however I overcame my prejudice and am glad I did because they realty are just as good as my other set which is green where the rainbow is different colours making key selection easier.
William Adams
Interesting — could you share the colour-coding scheme? link?
Redcastle
Bigest proponent at the moment is Ultex house brand for ITS and an OEM for others FFX and Axminster who will I understand be introducing similar products, if you Google ITS Tools London you will find their site.
ToolOfTheTrade
The fastener heads make all the difference in the world when it comes to using a hex key to fasten them. Not only does the quality of steel play an important role but also the depth of head. And it normally depends on what they are being used on to determine the quality of them. You can have the most expensive set of hex keys they make, but if the heads have no depth for them to bite, then you stand a good chance of rounding and stripping the head. Sometimes it’s easier to use a torx instead of a hex. Especially if you’ve partially stripped it. And one thing I’ve noticed is that the black/brown bolts are much better steel than the shiny ones. Especially the ones with the ridges on the outer circumference of the head. Those are some pretty good bolts. And when you start stripping the heads, that’s when it’s time for the vise grips to be put to proper use. If that doesn’t work, take your next size up and hammer it down into it, take a cheater bar and bam! That’ll turn it loose just about every time. The ones with threadlocker can be a real headache when an inferior hex bolt was used for fastening. That’s when heat has to be applied and other fun stuff.
Alick
Have said it before, will say it again : “Eight” brand from Japan. Hex key specialists. I don’t have much PB Swiss stuff but so far, my “Eight” hex keys are better.. They hold up against a crazy amount of use and finish is superb. If you’re a tool guy who travels in Asia, keep your eyes open.
If you’re a professional machine tool fitter who needs a high torque sliding on hex keys in awkward places, Beta Tools sliding T hex wrenches maybe the best on the market.
Fancy_Dan
Facom.
I’m surprised nobody’s mentioned Facom hex keys, given the outstanding quality of Facom tools (on a par with PB Swiss?).
Gabe
BikeRadar did a fairy comprehensive & scientific comparison of various hex keys. Bondhus were actually the most consistently accurate fit, over PB Swiss & Wiha.
Here were their findings on 5mm keys:
Sample 1
Sample 2
Sample 3
Mean average
Bondhus Standard
5.014
5.002
5.007
5.008
Bondhus ProGuard
5.007
5.007
Bondhus ProGold
4.998
5.002
5.000
Park Tool (Bondhus)
5.004
4.994
4.983
4.994
Crank Brothers Multi 17
4.993
4.993
Wiha
4.988
4.988
Jet Black multi-tool
4.987
4.987
Beta
4.982
4.991
4.987
Kincrome (Tiawan)
4.986
4.986
Pedro’s
4.958
5.013
4.986
Irwin Impact Bit
4.985
4.985
4.985
Topeak Mini 9
4.983
4.983
PB Swiss
4.98
4.98
Mac
4.987
4.967
4.977
Unior
4.992
4.965
4.964
4.974
Wera
4.97
4.970
PrestaCycle Bit
4.965
4.975
4.970
PRO multi tool
4.968
4.968
Generic Chinese
4.963
4.964
4.974
4.967
Birzman
4.928
4.964
4.946
Lezyne Stainless Multi
4.94
4.940
Aaron SD
I’ve been trying to find the Bondhus 20499 set for months but no luck. This is the pro-hold set. Wondering if anyone heard anything about it.
Any thoughts on the colored 690600 set?
Thanks!
Stuart
I haven’t tried the colored Bondhus wrenches yet.
I have had mostly good experiences with the brand, and would feel pretty confident about that style. If you’re careful about your choice in retailer, you can return them if you’re not happy.
Big Richard
This is the one you want: https://www.amazon.com/Bondhus-20399-L-Wrench-BriteGuard-GoldGuard/dp/B00132CGTW?th=1
Stuart
That’s exactly what is posted about and linked-to above.
The 20499 set they mentioned has a black “ProGuard” finish, and the 69060 set has color-coding finish of unspecified coating.
Big Richard
You are correct, good observation. The 20499 set is different as it has the “pro-hold” ball end, with a little detent ball in it. The color guard set they inquired about does not (nor does the brite/gold set we both mentioned).
Aaron SD
Thanks. It is still odd that can’t find a retailer with the pro-hold in stock. Bondhus’ website doesn’t show discontinued but no one has them in stock. One website had a great price ~$35 but that was in March and I’m still waiting to get them.
I like the wera hex + set but have to be talked in to the extra $20 upgrade from the Bondhus 69600 set. Is it worth it? Thinking this is a lifetime purchase. PB Swiss is nice but definitely can’t justify $160 for the set.
Thanks for all the help and discussion!
unmesh
I don’t know how legit these guys are but Google Shopping turned up this for $27.02 with free shipping
https://www.govets.com/bondhus-037231204990-310-77877264.html
Aaron SD
Thanks! Worth a call to see if legit or just an old posting
Gabe
I’d contact Bondhus directly; their customer service is absurdly good. (Back before COVID & supply chain issues, they’d probably send you a sample Prohold; maybe still the case.)
They might be able to sell a set or confirm a dealer’s legit.
I’ve used Proholds before; not perfect but really good at what they do.
As for the colored set; I’ve got those as well as the Briteguard & Goldguards to compare.
The finish is a little thicker, & fairly tough. They seem to fit a little tighter than the plated keys.
The finish on the tips will wear down eventually but not a big deal.
The color coding is fantastic when working with multiple size fasteners.
I promise I’m not a shill, but Bondhus tools & their customer service have been good to me.