A little over 4 years ago, I succumbed to readers’ requests that I start exploring rechargeable flashlights and lighting products.
I purchased very many different flashlights and headlamps at the time, and a couple more since then, and also received a couple of test samples to review.
Shown above is the Fenix HM65R rechargeable headlamp, the best, most featured, and most expensive headlamps I purchased. It’s not quite my favorite, but it’s superb and superior in many ways.
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The Fenix HM65R delivers up to 1400 lumens, has multi-mode output selection, and can be powered by a single 18650 Li-ion battery or 2x CR123 lithium cells. It has a comfortable strap, magnesium housing, and built-in USB-C charging.
There are 2 emitters with independent controls – a spotlight and a floodlight. You can use them separately or together.
It’s too much headlamp for my more casual and infrequent needs and usage habits, but I consider it excellent for daily or regular use.
I tend to prefer smaller headlamps that can be equipped with disposable AA, AAA, or CR123A battery cells, so that I could leave them on the shelf or in a gear box for longer stretches of time.
I feel that rechargeable headlamps, like flashlights equipped with Li-ion batteries, are better suited for regular or deliberate use.
The Fenix can also work with CR123 cells, and I see that more as a backup option.
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I have tested a lot of flashlights, headlamps, and worklights over the past few years, and worked out my likes, dislikes, and preferences.
The Fenix is bright, very well-built, as comfortable as could be for products of their size, nicely featured, and generally recommendable. It’s a great general purpose worklight, and I feel it’s also aimed at outdoors leisure activities such as camping and hiking. It’s advertised as being dustproof, waterproof, and drop resistant to 2 meters. It feels lighter than it looks, no doubt due to the magnesium housing, and the illumination quality is excellent – both spot and flood modes.
I wouldn’t buy it again, as it’s too much headlamp for my needs and usage habits. I’ll be keeping it around for a while, should I ever need it. It’s good to know I can pop in a fresh 18650 cell (I’ve been happy with Fenix and KeepPower), or CR123’s if need be.
I also bought a couple of other headlamps that work with 18650 Li-ion cells, but don’t like them. I thought they’d be similar to my AA Zebralight headlamps, which I mainly use as flashlights that can be worn as headlamps in a pinch (although I’ve had bad luck with Zebralight strap hardware breaking over time), but they didn’t work out that way.
Fenix describes the HM65R as their “best all-around” headlamp, and I can see that.
This is not a headlamp for someone that doesn’t know what they want. Out of all of the headlamps I’ve explored over the past few years, this is the best rechargeable model. It’s not my favorite overall, but I’d consider it my favorite rechargeable headlamp.
Price: $99.95
Fenix Coupon Code: AF-TOOLGUYD saves you 10%.
The sample discussed above was purchased at retail.
Alternate Option for Work
Milwaukee’s RedLithium USB headlamps would be my next choice – this one can also be recharged via USB-C. I don’t believe I’ve tested this model, but I’ve had great experiences with Milwaukee’s other headlamps.
I am looking forward to Milwaukee replacing more of their micro-USB flashlights and worklights with USB-C-rechargeable versions, although it will likely be a gradual process over more time. You have to look closely, as a lot of their lighting products still have micro-USB ports.
Milwaukee’s headlamps aren’t as featured as the Fenix or some other consumer models I’ve bought, used, or tested, but they’re highly functional, durable, and reliable. Plus, they’re tailored to construction applications and tool users, such as with hard hat compatibility.
Note About Upcoming Flashlight and Headlamp Reviews
I’m parting with a lot of rechargeable flashlights, worklights, and headlamps that were purchased to explore the product category – sorry, they’re all going locally.
The endeavor was very successful, as I learned a lot about what I like and prefer, and what I don’t.
For example, I learned that I prefer Fenix’s magnetic charging cables to Olight’s, but I’ve come to prefer on-body USB-C charging over both.
I like the ability to replace batteries, but over time, rather than during use.
The HM65R despite not being perfectly suited to my needs and use habits, didn’t seem to have any compromises or frustrations. I can’t say the same for other rechargeable headlamps I’ve tested.
I have become very preferential about lighting products, which I suppose is a consequence of being exposed to so many different brands and models.
The HM65R is one of the few standouts, and I’ll likely post about some of the others.
Let me know what you’d else like to see, otherwise I’ll switch attention to new models and also only focus on the standouts.
Ricardo
Now I am curious. Which is you favorite headlamp?
Stuart
Rechargeable? I think this one’s it. Overall? Maybe the Petzl Tikka. They’re simple, but reliable. My Black Diamond Storm is the most comfortable. The Fenix HM50 isn’t quite on that list, but I like it enough that I tossed it into a spares box rather than giving it away.
If I could only keep 2 headlamps, it would be the Fenix and my Petzl Tikka.
If ToolGuyd wasn’t footing the bill, I never would have considered the Fenix HM65R. It’s at the size and weight limit of what I’d consider for a general purpose worklight, but is priced higher than I think most could justify for casual use. I think that’s partly what’s kept it from being my favorite.
Evan
I used to be a huge Tikka fan, but several years ago I switched to the Nitecore NU25 UL. I use it for several hours every day (I live in an off grid yurt so morning chores 4:45-7AM and after 4:30 PM in winter). I also use it for ultralight backpacking, night skiing, dog walking, and for my carpentry business to supplement my other work lights. I have absolutely no connection to the company and have not used a super wide variety of headlamps but have been thrilled with this one for several years.
James
I’m so interested by this comment…seriously.
Evan
Hi James! Happy to chat about the comment – if anyone wants I can try to take photos of the headlamp compared to the others in my arsenal. I have 2 of them.
Jake
I live in a house, but I have the OG NU25 model (not sure they make it anymore) and it is my favorite headlamp. Lightweight, bright, simple.
Marc
I have the same headlight and love it. Used it many times at night when hiking. Has never let me down and it is seriously light weight: 46.5g
Hepdog
I’ve had my Petzl Reaktik for about 10 years….this is the best headlamp I’ve ever used! The reactive brightness based on ambient light is a battery saver. Coupled with the usb-c rechargeable battery, that is still going strong, this has been the best lighting purchase I have ever made.
-hepdog
Jerry
Would you ever consider comparing UIs? I absolutely loathe the nitecore ones for example. The lighting is so so but the UI turns into the I’ve run out of all other options so annoyed is better than dark. Favorite is the milwaukee but it’s big and heavy so falls off easily of catches crawling around. Flood only are hard in tight spaces as most hiking ones except maybe the Tikka XP I had and liked.
Absolutely favorite was the milwaukee small rechargeable. Still trying to find a replacement with usbc. Excellent light quality, decent spot and good area light, remembers last used level, and it’s a magnetic mount so easy to pull off for a quick look as a hand light. Hate the micro USB.
Stuart
Yes, and no. On all of the prior lights I’ve tested? No, because a lot of them have been updated or replaced since I bought them all. Moving forward? Yes.
Jerry
For sure, sorry that’s what I was thinking of. The UI seems to be an area of ‘innovation’ these days and with the improvements in led light output overall, an important differention.
Micheal
I am a big fan of the DanForce Headlamp. USB Rechargeable LED Head Lamp. I keep one, in my tool box, my cleanroom desk, and each of mt rental properties.
MFC
I’m not much of a headlamp guy, but the Coleman Peak1 headlamp has changed my mind about them. It seems like it lasts a long time and I can leave it in the solar charging case on my dash board and know it’s always gonna be charged when I need it. I’m sure there’s other better ones out there, but it’s broad light is perfect. I really hate the piercing narrow beams of the others I’ve used.
Jared
I don’t use headlamps often, but when I do, I prefer them very lightweight and low profile, even if that means compromising brightness and runtime. Any recommendations with that in mind?
I tend to use them for closeup work when I need my hands free – as opposed to outdoor activity where I need the beam to project further.
Tim+E.
My favorite in that category is Milwaukee’s 2104 headlamp (https://www.milwaukeetool.com/products/2104). I have grown perhaps overly accustomed to the lukewarm white color Milwaukee uses for their lighting, and strongly prefer it over cool white options, for example from Olight or other makers (though many are expanding into more warmer white options). It probably isn’t the lightest possible light, but having both spot and flood options was a good tradeoff for me while still being very wearable for extended periods. If you just want flood light, I also had the 2103 which is very similar, but didn’t feel like it gained anything weight or size-wise over the 2104, and for me just flood over spot + flood was not as useful.
CA
I like Milwaukee too, but I prefer rechargeable batteries. I think I’m going to pick up the one that Stuart posted at Home Depot.
TMedina
You can always use rechargeable AAA batteries for your headlamps. Should be about the same as alkaline performance without the danger of leaking.
JR Ramos
Depends on the light but the initial lower full charge voltage of NiMH scrubs off quickly enough that many lights will lose their high mode within just a few minutes and you can’t get it back. That 2103 Milwaukee is like that…so you’re stuck with three seconds of high and then relegated to medium or low for most of the batteries’ charge life. I think rechargables are great – I’m mostly in the lithium camp these days but for other lights I usually go with a flavor of Eneloop or some Maha cells. The Energizer lithium primary disposables are worth it too but they’re pricey for items that will drain them quickly.
Kilroy
Big fan of Fenix. STRONGLY recommend even their less expensive products to the casual user, worth paying a little more compared to the $20 junk.
I bought a few Fenix headlamps and flashlights a couple years ago for myself and as gifts for the family.
I don’t use them often, but the rechargeable batteries hold charges well, and I’ve been impressed with them. Even the lower end Fenix units that I have have been more than enough for my needs while still being much better than the cheaper junk that I used in the past.
As a bonus, when I called the Fenix customer service line a few years ago (had a question about the products I was considering buying), a US-based rep picked up on the first ring… No phone menu, no wait, and super super knowledgeable American CSR who answered my question quickly and accurately, without trying to rush me off the phone.
The fact that I still remember that experience with their customer service years later shows how much of an impact it had on me.
Wayne R.
The Petzl Zipka models use a retractable cord loop. For infrequent use, I prefer that as it’s very small in a bag or tool box, and it doesn’t get tangled up around other gear. They’re AAA, so a set of lithium cells (3), and you’re good for a long time.
Doesn’t look like they’re still being offered though…
frobo
Yeah, for many years now the Zipka (and its predecessor, whatever that was called) has been my tried-and-true headlamp. It’s super small, lightweight, and the retractable cord mechanism works great for attaching to my head plus lots of other things. I used it just this morning. Like you, my observation is that they’re no longer being offered, which is a shame.
Evan
Hi Jared! I just shared about the Nitecore NU25 UL above but it fits the bill for me of lightweight, bright, good runtime (I can do a lot on the ultra low double click mode), rechargable, etc. Im not sure about low profile. It is definitely bulkier than my Petzl e+ Lite but seems great to me.
Joe
I am extremely picky about lights. I have never had any issues with anything Zebralight after using them for almost 15 years. I hate just about any light that has an external charging port that doesn’t have a metal flap with a replaceable o-ring because either they don’t seal well enough against water or become brittle and snap off or don’t stand up to harsh chemicals and aren’t serviceable. Once the flap goes, the light is often soon to follow in my use. I like lights with replaceable batteries, digital regulation, high CRI emitters, quick and easy interfaces, can be stood up in their own, with either separate options of spot and flood or a nice blend of spot and flood to their beam pattern, and magnetic bases are a bonus. In a flashlight or headlamp I want a high, medium, low, and moonlight mode with sos and strobe accessed separately or via a different method than the standard lighting levels.
Doug N
I second the Zebralight recommendation. Their build quality is far above other flashlights or headlamps (Petzl, etc.) due to the aluminum unibody head/tube for heat dissipation, thermally regulated output, and silicone-potted electronics.
The lights are extremely compact and lightweight, and offer neutral color led options.
They have several lights which run on a standard AA battery for about $79.
AP
I have the exact same model and LOVE it! Great for early morning walks when it’s still dark, camping or doing some work while moving around a lot.
Josh Williams
I had the same model light and was thoroughly impressed. Great for electric eork in dark attics. Left it in a bucket on the truck which filled with water and froze for the duration of the winter. Come springtime when I was cleaning out the bucket I found the light and it was as good as new with nearly a full charge still. Expensive but worth the price if it fits your needs
Josh Williams
I had the same model light and was thoroughly impressed. Great for electric work in dark attics. Left it in a bucket on the truck which filled with water and froze for the duration of the winter. Come springtime when I was cleaning out the bucket I found the light and it was as good as new with nearly a full charge still. Expensive but worth the price if it fits your needs
Jerry
I have a few Fenix lights, and really like them. I once got a limited run AAA light that is amazingly bright.
I agree with the previous poster. Fenix lights (along with many other name brands like Petzl) are worth the extra $$$ for all but the most casual of users. Haven’t had a Fenix fail yet.
Jerry
I had to go look at the model of Fenix headlamp I have. It is a HM 50R.
I don’t use headlamps a lot, and what I really like about that one is that the light easily detaches from the head band, and instantly becomes a little hand-held flashlight. I do mechanical/maintenance work and from time to time like a headlamp to keep both hands free when climbing/working on something, yet might need a handheld light for inspections. This lets me do both with one light. Not super bright, but bright enough for practical uses on high, dim enough not to be blinding close up on low, and goes from headlight to handheld back to headlight in less than a second. Just snaps into a little spring clip. As an added bonus, it rotates in the clip so you can aim it up or down in relation to the headband, as well.
JR Ramos
Personally that is just way too large and heavy for me. I’m a big headlamp user (and flashlight enthusiast…) and have several others that I’d pick over this (and which are half to one-third the cost). Try out the Wurkkos HD15 sometime and use it with the half length 18350 cells (two emitters, one spot, one nicely diffused, Anduril UI). If you pair that with the excellent Skillhunt clip headband it’s really hard to beat and the run time is pretty good (much longer on 18650 if you don’t mind the weight). They have a larger one and one that has a red emitter (one white, one red) but the HD15 is probably the best all arounder. There are lots of single cell lightweight angle lights but I’ve never been a fan of most of them. The Black Diamond headlamps are still a favorite of mine but I sure wish they would get with the times and improve the performance and emitter quality in them.
Now a safety note. CR123 is one of the last sources of fuel I want, ever. I don’t want them in a flashlight, I really don’t want them in series, and I especially do not want a headlamp using those in series On My Head. Most of the infamous bad “lithium battery” stories were with primary lithium metal CR123 batteries and it’s true: if they give up the smoke, it is Very Toxic and can cause lifelong health issues. Combined with that, it’s hard to find reliable good quality ones these days even from the bigger names like Surefire and other major brands. We used a lot of them in building alarm sensors and the only ones we found to be reliable were expensive Panasonic models that had lower capacity…but for that use they’re fine (singles, very low drain). The doomsday and old school duty-light crowd still seems stuck on this battery format for some reason but it’s one that I think could go away. Rechargeable li-ion is a much better bet. The one good thing about lights that use series CR123 is that they necessarily have a buck driver in them, which is a bit more efficient and can give longer run time (generally how they are set up…some will use a 6V emitter and a boost driver if it’s to run dual-fuel with series CR123 and a single li-ion…less desirable imo).
I got the Fenix HT30R LEP a couple years ago…first and only light in that tech and it’s a good one, really impressive how that technology came together. I love their general host/build quality and the copper buttons (nice look) but frankly I think they’re not a very good value overall compared to so many other light brands out there, and the engineering quality is no better than many others (and many other cheaper lights actually do better there…). Plus they won’t adopt really nice emitters like the enthusiast crowd has encouraged. Good company overall and when you need service they’re responsive at least. I’ve seen enough of them fail that I wouldn’t consider them a reliable duty light and that also makes me happy to save money and get the same or better quality with cheaper brands.
I also really like that older Milwaukee 2103 dual emitter 3AAA headlamp…very nice light temperature and diffused beam. Unfortunately it had pith-poor electrical engineering such that it never should have been released to market – horrible parasitic drain and mode spacing with step-down that makes it nearly unusable without fresh cells (or better run time with lower output on NiMH). I don’t know if the more recent models fixed that engineering but I sure hope so. Mine is relegated to use at the drill press and bench grinder now, where it just gets brief spurts of use for the most part. The 1.5v rechargeable lithium cells work pretty well in it with better performance, but they prevent the step-down from occurring so they die very suddenly, and if left in the light it will actually kill them whereas it’ll just drain a primary to dead. Luckily I got mine on closeout at Ace for like $13 or something.
Tim+E.
Interesting, hopefully they have fixed that on the 2103. I didn’t notice it on the one I had for a bit, but didn’t really use it for long enough to have noticed maybe. Haven’t had that issue on the 2104 though, I have a couple stashed around, some a couple years old and some probably getting on 4-5 years old. One gets used fairly regularly, the rest have spurts of sitting for months and are still fine whenever I go back to them, that’s with eneloops in there. Pretty sure that is after a revision though, I seem to remember the hinges being changed about 5-6 years ago, and maybe they fixed electrical issues then too.
Stuart
Surefire and Streamlight CR123 batteries are easy to find. When I hear of incidents, it turns out users mixed batteries or bought no-name brands online.
Following your post, I examined all of the CR123 lights. I occasionally grab one to travel with, but they’re mostly used in blackouts or similar – I use other lights day to day.
With some testing, my recent 21700-equipped lights are noticeably brighter and not much larger.
Some of the CR123 batteries are nearing the end of their shelf life, and so I’ll be recycling them and moving the empty flashlights to my spares collection.
The Malkoffs can be upgraded with 18650 cells. I might do that, but most modern flashlights offer built-in charging, and it saves a couple of extra steps. I have a few lights that need to be taken apart to remove the Li-ion batteries for charging, and I’ll be retiring all but one or maybe two of my favorites.
My current pack of CR123 cells has another 7 years left on the shelf life. I might buy a replacement box at that time.
I retired my 2x AA flashlights, but still like AA, AAA, and 2x AAA penlights. I use rechargeable NiMH cells and disposable lithium cells for those.
You’re right in that there’s a mindset around CR123. I gradually moved away from that those cells, but still consider them suited for backup purposes. I have a replacement 16340 cell on the way for my favorite EDC light, and can pop in a CR123 if I don’t want to use something else in the meantime.
I’ve been looking for a good USB-C 18650-powered light to test out, or maybe 18350 despite my hesitation about the form factor. It seems that many flashlight makers went from 18650 with micro-USB charging straight to 27100 with USB-C. Some come with sleeves for use with 18650 cells, but I don’t see the point in that.
JR Ramos
We went through boxes and boxes of the Surefire cells – pretty fair amount of duds and inconsistent capacities (which was kind of surprising but we got used to it over time…the devices are very low drain and don’t vary the load like hardly ever). Energizer and Duracell were no better except I don’t think we ever had duds (and they were a lot more expensive). The Panasonics were winners. We tried a handful of Nitecore, too (not sure if they even still offer those)…no issues but that was just six of them for about one year before replacement.
The big problem with that cell seems to have been the complete move to overseas manufacture – yes, lots of “no name” cells out there in all cell types and sizes but some are good or really good, but with the lithium metal primaries it’s just hard to get consistently good ones. “They” seem to do just fine with alkalines and li-ion for the most part…silver oxide is dicy, and they just can’t seem to get the lithium metal primaries up to snuff yet for whatever reason.
In many devices and single-cell use, it’s just an irritation, but used in series and/or with circuits that may not be sophisticated enough to cope with imbalances, or especially in a sealed flashlight that essentially becomes a pipe bomb….bad CR123 is just a huge risk, poor choice for fuel these days, imho. 20 years ago they offered something better compared to what we had available.
As I learned the real effects and details of how toxic those are when heated/outgassed…..wow. Li-ion isn’t healthy either but it’s not nearly so dangerous as the lithium metal primaries. To most users they seem so benign and look just like alkalines really, and if anyone is concerned it’s usually about leakage or fire, but man the fumes/gas from those really demands caution. If one ever goes, just get the heck out and come back later (and be prepared for extensive cleanup). Li-ion is so much safer despite its own inherent risks.
Stuart
Yikes. How do you feel about Energizer Lithium AA’s?
Energizer AA and AAA lithium cells still make sense given their extended shelf life and superb cold weather performance.
But what you’re saying about CR123, in addition to how they’re single-use, has me rethinking my use. I’m down to one, and as soon as I pick up an 18650 for it, that might be none.
The only hassle about Li-ion vs CR123 is that they need to be maintained and replaced over shorter periods of time.
My preference for USB-C is in the context of that vs micro-USB.
I have a couple of lights that require the battery to be removed and charged externally. Two are premium lights that take 16340 cells, and one is a CR123 light that takes 18650 cells.
Some lights don’t have built-in charging, and some of those only work with unprotected cells. In my opinion, that’s firmly in enthusiast territory.
JR Ramos
I use the Energizer lithium all the time – they’re not always a cost effective choice but for many things they have that slight voltage boost and just a little flatter discharge curve at the upper end of their voltage (NiMH is usually way better there but at their necessary lower voltage output). Actually that Milwaukee 2103 headlamp that I like/disdain gets the lithium AA because it’ll perform better before dropping output whereas on alkaline it just drops out of high so fast and you can’t just bump it back up like you might when using turbo on a li-ion flashlight. Some devices actually are still made where they cannot tolerate that extra couple tenths of a volt that the lithium gives, though, so always be sure about that first (or you can dumb-drain the lithiums just a tad and then enjoy what they offer despite wasting a little of their capacity). The cold weather performance is really just slightly better…much better than alkaline I guess but it’ll still sap them (li-ion is generally better than lithium metal primary but of course it’s higher voltage to start with). The best thing is that they generally do not leak (I have seen photos of a few, however) so they’re great for lives-in-the-car lights and kitchen drawers as long as the device doesn’t suffer parasitic drain and/or you can cut the circuit for extended non-use.
For the CR123s, unless it’s a really old light it should take li-ion rechargeables, too, so I’d just use those if you like the light enough to keep it. Just depends on the driver design. I wouldn’t be afraid of the disposable primaries, just if you have a series setup, err on the side of caution and get in the habit of checking their voltage with a multimeter (balance) and/or swapping them out early rather than running them low, and be cautious of anything that could cause a direct short (and maybe don’t drop them from a high ladder…).
I’m going to have to go look this up now, but I’m really not sure if the Energizer lithium primaries are the same formulation as the CR123 – I’m inclined to think it’s not, because of the voltage difference…but as far as toxicity from them, I’ll have to snoop around. The good thing is that they are far less energy-dense and generally do not leak, so even if hot outgassing is still toxic it may not be such a serious health risk as the CR123 magic butter. I mean none of that stuff is good to breathe but our bodies can handle a lot of things in brief doses just fine…but the CR123 should be given much more respect and caution.
I think micro USB is finally just about dead except for random cheap devices. I don’t scout everything out like I used to but I think everything I’ve seen released in the last several years has switched to USB-C unless it’s the irritating magnetic charging setups (only irritating because of the “proprietary” battery and having an extra cord instead of just enjoying the simplicity of USB-C).
On protected cells…couple things. Realize that every li-ion cell has two on-board built-in forms of mild protection in case things go south. When you buy protected cells that’s just an add-on circuit board under the wrapper that does the job of what is already present in most driver circuits these days (for many many years now actually). Unless you’re buying a super cheap crappy flashlight, the driver will already have electronic protection features like low voltage cutoff, over voltage cutoff, and of course many these days also have thermal current drop (but generally thermal issues aren’t scary…they’re hot or Too Hott for our skin but not for the batteries). Protected cells most often (not always) do have protection for short circuiting, but that’s better suited for fools that carry the cells around in a pocket with coins or keys or whatever. Generally the add-on protection boards induce extra resistance and also have a rather low upper current discharge limit, so they are more a hindrance in a light than can otherwise give you high output lumens (high, meaning a couple thousand or more on turbo, not the crazy lumen monster lights)…some lights with higher output won’t even run on protected cells because they want more amps than the 8 or 10 that the protected cells will allow to flow through. But most lights just like up to 3 amps or 6-8 amps on high so protected cells are fine for the majority, functionally. As long as someone is just reasonably aware and conscious of li-ion energy density and responsible enough to avoid short circuits or extremely deep discharge (sub-2V) and has an acceptable decent charger, then there’s no great reason to do protected cells – they cost more, they don’t necessarily protect you anyway, they limit your choices, and quite often limit performance if you want more lumens. Manufacturers that are on the hook for customer service, warranty, and/or potential lawsuits do love protected cells…because there are a lot of idgits in the world. Normal people can do unprotected cells just fine without worry. 🙂
JR Ramos
Oh…on the Energizers. There do seem to be an awful lot of fakes or bulk buys for poorly stored cells. They’re stupid expensive still (thank you, patent) but I avoid Amazon for those and just buy them locally at *%#! full retail if I can’t find sale prices (rarely). I don’t use enough of them that it hurts the wallet since li-ion and NiMH are the vast majority of the stupid amounts of batteries I need. lol
One day maybe we’ll get to see that lithium primary made by other manufacturers and the price will come down (and hopefully no quality issues as others pick it up). They are just stupidly greedily priced right now.
JR Ramos
Yeah, 21700 took just a little bit to convince some makers to give us a light with that, but once a couple guys made their own and a couple manufacturers brought out lights, it really took off. It offers so much over 18650 with very little tradeoff in size/weight. Thank you Tesla. I think the first commercial 21700 light was in 2017 or 2018 but a year or two later they were available from many manufacturers and now they have almost eclipsed 18650.
I like 18350 more than 16340 just because it actually offers a significantly greater capacity and current delivery for so little change in physical size, but I have lights with both (actually one of the very few O-light models I ever bought, older Baton S2 or whatever is 16340, normal cells). I think Vapcell currently has the best cell options for both sizes (the O-light 16340 was pretty good but I think they nixed it in favor of the “proprietary” setup now). These “off size” cells often take some snooping around and enthusiast testing to compare quality since that is a moving target with most China battery manufacturers (not to mention the tricks the shady down-low aftermarket players over there will still do sometimes)…and frankly you cannot expect the major light brands to provide the best cells (Acebeam, Fenix, Nitecore, O-light, etc, etc). ..sometimes they do, most often they do not. Vapcell is a rewrapper but they have consistently done a fantastic job and are committed to the business, very forthcoming with specifications and seeking out consistency/quality/performance from their sources, too (they use some majors like Samsung and now Molicell as well as the variety of China factories).
Tube sleeves can come in handy. The light needs to be designed to accommodate the slight change in cell length (usually dual springs is fine but that has been less common to find in recent years (cheapening…) unless a light does not use anodizing on the threads where leaving a head or tail a little loose will still allow electrons to flow through the host metal to the driver. If you have a 21700 light and suddenly find yourself with a dead cell/no spare cell/no charger that will take that length, then you can find an 18650 almost anywhere and pop that in…or salvage old cells that are still healthy and have those on hand for regular use or emergency use, etc. It’s not a bad idea. A sleeve for 26650 to 21700 can even unlock better performance in some lights since 26650 hardly ever had great performing battery options and nothing close to what 21700 brought to the table. The only drawback, sometimes, is that if a light is able to sustain higher output to where the battery can get pretty warm, then using an adapter tube will insulate that cell heat instead of letting it dissipate through the body tube and into your hand…haven’t ever heard of that being a practical problem for anyone, however.
It’s changing lately, but if you demand on-board C charging then that will greatly limit your options. Convoy has several now and they’re all pretty good lights…drivers are a little less sophisticated and driver quality is decent but maybe more likely to have some issues down the road (they are, however super easy to swap parts and do repairs, cheap parts prices, as long as you can do simple soldering). Skillhunt has excellent lights and drivers and I think they have something like that now. Wurkkos is pretty decent (some great lights) and their WK03 might fit your needs (they have a special gold edition they made for a German flashlight forum group buy)…21700, USC C, great 519A emitter in 5000K (nice tint, not cold white, not too warm, great stable output, simple interface with 5 well spaced modes). You can get that with coupons for like $18 and quite honestly it will best lights that cost $60 to $80 everywhere except drop resistance maybe (typical of many lights, though…not potted (which is a bonus imho), thinner host metal, aluminum bezel). I’m sure O-light must have one, too, but you’ll have to like their cruddy emitter choices and battery gymnastics. Right now, Emisar/Noctigon (“Hank” lights….international outdoor .com) doesn’t do onboard charging in favor of compactness but he has fantastic lights and 21700 in either single or quad emitters…if you can get around the USB-C requirement they are *well* worth buying and a real bargain for what they provide. Firefly might have something and they are generally very good lights but I wouldn’t recommend them for those that aren’t a little savvy with the hobby and communicating with small vendors (he does do a lot of onboard charging, though, and has adopted the Lume drivers that were developed by an enthusiast engineer…fantastic).
There’s a less well known brand called On The Road which put out a lot of really great lights and many were different than the other fish in the sea…just on Aliexpress, though, and sadly I think they may have gone out of business or close to it. At this point I would probably shy away from Sofirn (sadly…they were great) and Lumintop for the most part. Also be aware that for whatever reason, many of these outfits just don’t implement USB-C the way they should/could, and many do not use good waterproof port options although that would add mere pennies to the cost of the lights…so it’s there, but depending on the circuitry and port, it may only give the symmetric USB-C convenience with the cord plug but not what it otherwise should (excluding data, for the majority, as you’d expect).
S
Thanks! this is exactly why I avoid the budget light forum… On The Road is still on AliExpress, sending me down a rabbit hole on my next light purchase
Doresoom
I’ve had a great experience with Milwaukee’s detachable headlamp: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-450-Lumens-Internal-Rechargeable-Magnetic-Headlamp-and-Task-Light-2012R/316165316
It does have an integral battery, but so far it’s still holding charge well. I like that I can detach the light and plunk it down on a ferrous surface if that lighting angle is better suited for the task at hand.
Stuart
My only qualms about that model is the micro-USB charging. I’ve been making a conscious effort to avoid anything but USB-C where alternatives are available.
Nate
And even then, USB-C is often implemented incorrectly, missing the PD personality resistors, so that it can only charge from a usb-A-to-C cable, not from a proper type-C PD source.
So many reviews don’t specify, and it nerfs one of the main advantages of type C.
Scott Davis
I’ve had great luck with my 2(3) O-Light head lamps. I had the H2R that after 5 years of use would randomly not come on. I sent it to O-Light and they sent me the Perun2 as a replacement. It is my EDC and I use it everyday. I’ve had the Perun2 for two years now. I don’t use it as a headlamp most of the time though. I do use it for caving as a headlamp.
I also have the Perun Mini2 that I do use as a headlamp. I use it twice a week or so when replacing a part in a dark crawl or attic.
My charger is laying on the floor of my truck. When I jump in my truck I throw the light on the floor and the charger automatically sticks to it and keeps it charged.
it’s_jake
i still want to see the reactik tech on more stuff. it auto adjusts with a light sensor so if you move from hiking to staring at a map you don’t blind yourself from the reflection. looking down a chase and then holding up a tool or a print in front of you- same thing!
JR Ramos
O-light and some others have brought those out but at least in flashlights it has not been very well received…not sure if it was implementation or just preference user complaints. I thought about getting one of the Petzls when they brought that out but I think for me it would be more of a pain, unless that feature can be turned off. Actually I think I did hear some complaints about raindrops and fog causing unexpected dimming with those lights (the Petzl) but that would have been a long time back.
Jo B
I’d like to try a Fenix head lamp one day. I have three of their flashlights, and really like their output much more than O-light (who over-estimates theirs). The downfall to the flashlights are the built-in chargers and connection, both failing after a year on my three. The other thing that I don’t like is dual-buttons, preferring a tail one only.
I’ve owned/tried a couple dozen headlamps over the years, using them as an electrician – Petzl, Black Diamond, Coast, MEC, DeWalt®, MSR, Pelican, Surefire, Streamlight. The Petzl and Black Diamond would get me 6 – 12 months before going in the garbage. I got 13 years out of a Surefire Saint model, even though it was only 100 lumens – sold to buy a higher out put headlamp. I’m currently using a Coast 1000 lumen headlamp, and happy with it so far
John Blair
I found my usage doesn’t really require ultra bright so much as a good spread of light. I started with an Olight Perun head light. It was just okay. It was too bright and too much of a pain to point towards what I was working on so it got relegated to the “Nice idea, but I rarely use it unless I have no other choice pile.”
I saw the Klein wide beam and through it would be much more useful when working in close spots but was too cheap to buy it. I saw a similar model on Amazon for $8 to $11 (search for 230 wide beam motion) and decided to take a chance. I absolutely love it. Its great for everything I use a head beam for. It is light enough that I forget I am wearing it. I never use the motion activation feature and rarely the focused side light.
It works in the attic when doing electrical work and when I am in the garage doing woodworking. The broad beam of light makes it easy to see pencil marks even with my horrible eyesight.
JR Ramos
You might really like one of the Milwaukee models. They are full-flood smooth light and their “True View” emitters are a nice warmer 4000K color temperature. I think they are just grossly overpriced and they could be done a lot better, but the light quality is very nice for close to medium work. I find that warmer light temps (more than old incandescent but still warm) most often help me see lines and graduations better than the still-too-common cold white temps. It’s nicer for working with bare metal, too. Sometimes cold white does provide better contrast, though.
Joe H
I almost went with this light when I upgraded a few years ago, and it is indeed awesome. Instead I went with the Acebeam H30, and I’m honestly glad I did. It’s great in all of the same ways the Fenix is, but in my opinion moreso pretty much across the board. It’s super bright, it’s powered by 21700 cells (more juice in the tank than the 18650), has a dead simple user interface, and allows you to configure a couple of aux lights to your liking (red LED, green LED, UV LED, HI CRI white LED – pick 2). I don’t think they advertise it as such, but I’ve had mine down to 12-15 feet of depth in the ocean and it has performed flawlessly – I can’t say enough good things.
I’m not sponsored by Acebeam and I paid full boat for my headlamp – they’re not cheap, but I have since bought several as gifts for my friends.
Josh
Perfect timing! I had this one saved in my favorites for the past few weeks. I have quite a few Fenix lights and they all work great. My old Fenix headlamp headband broke (too many drops) so time for a new one. I agree with you as well USB C port for recharging is a must have!
David E Munson
Always been a fan of Fenix. Unlike you, I favor things that use 21700 batteries for flashlights and bike lights. The 18650 died too quickly for me.
The Fenix HM70R would be my choice.
Stuart
I’ve warmed up to 21700 cells for flashlights and wouldn’t hesitate about bike lights that aren’t handheld or head-worn.
I haven’t tried the HM70R yet, but it looks like it could be a good pick. Fenix says the HM70R is their bestselling headlamp.
Maybe I’ll try that one next to see if I can be convinced as to the merits of a larger >7 oz headlamp.
Saulac
Is there any light that can be ON and charged, via portable battery, at the same time? Not ideal for everyday use, but when I do need to run on high setting for extended period of time, I can connect the light to a battery pack, via USB. I have a few lights that I can charge via M12 battery + Milwaukee power source/charger + USB cable. But lights must be off.
JR Ramos
Not sure about headlamps but there are lots of flashlights that will operate while charging (and lots that will not). Just have to read reviews or ask questions about that specifically. Flashlight forums or review sites like ZeroAir and 1Lumen and a handful of excellent YouTube channels often check for that…or else just email the manufacturer and most will get back to you right away. Keep in mind that even with a constant power source, the light itself may not be able to/may not allow itself to be run constantly on higher settings. Heat dissipation…dumb or smart…is the limiting factor.
Tim Butterfield
Klein has a hardhat light that has a seperate battery pack. Saw it at a vendor demonstration, looked pretty cool
Stuart
Olight Baton 4 comes optional with a charging case. It’s a little more elegant than connecting a light to a battery bank via USB cable.
Joel
The headlamp kit is sold as an option with the flashlight and it’s a bit expensive, but here’s what I use most these days:
https://darksucks.com/products/mini-mkii-ti
Three reasons I use this:
1. The high CRI makes a huge difference in how well I can see what I’m doing. I’m not kidding at all.
2. The light is barely bigger than the battery inside it, so I can just put a whole spare flashlight in my pocket and swap within a few seconds.
3. The magnet on the tail comes in handy all the time. Pull it off the headlamp and stick it on any ferrous material to have an area light. Confirm location of sheetrock screws in a finished wall (instant stud finder). Etc.
But I’ve been using a LED headlamp since the late 90’s. I’m definitely a nerd about flashlights.
Tim Butterfield
I can vouch for the fenix Flashlights and Headlamps. My workplace gave out their pd35 Flashlights a few years ago, I since bought 2 more. I use a Flashlight and headlamp daily at work and they have held up exceptionally well. I have a HM65 headlamp that I abused for several years and it finally died. I brought my hm 65r-t from home and turned it into my work headlamp. They sell a rather nifty hardhat bracket adapter that I use, they’re less than $10. This makes it really easy to pull your headlamp off and use it as a personal flashlight. There are several fenix converts at my work now, with at least a dozen people buying the 65 series Headlamps out of their own money. I purchased extra 18650 batteries, so I can easily swap and charge batteries. I like having a flashlight and headlamp that use the same battery size, makes life easier. Fenix also offers discounts for first responders, government employees, and the military; this discount makes it affordable for me. If mine die, I would be replacing them immediately. I need to see if fenix will warranty my broken hm65, but it is obvious it’s been abused and dropped, with paint/powdercoat missing. It was after being hit on something for the 100th time that the button finally broke.
Nate
I’m astonished to hear you had a negative experience with Zebralight, I’ve got a couple of my own and outfitted my whole team with them years ago. Never had a failure, in fact they’re probably the very most durable lights I own.
Can you go into a little more detail about what happened? And did they attempt to fix it?
eddiesky
I’ve the Black Diamond Revolt (AAA – nonrechargeable) and it gotta be 10 years old or more now. The Milwaukee might be the replacement since I’m moving more to Red tools. And the it uses USB-C and I’ve the Milwaukee M18 fuel charging pack/LED light.
But I need a light I can grab in a pinch to go in dark places like attic or underhome space. And to be able to use a battery that can be charging or stored for months before use. My Black Diamond might need a new strap that the elastic is failing-dry rotting.
JR Ramos
I don’t know what it is but for the last almost decade all elastic seems to be crap and dies very prematurely. BD sells replacements…last time I bought a couple they were $5 each. They had them listed on the site as parts or something…or you can phone them up and they’ll take care of you.
Not sure I’d recommend any of the Milwaukee headlamps if you like what the ReVolt has to offer. Might check out some of the Nitecore models or maybe a Petzl with the rechargeable li-ion packs. The more recent BD lights are much improved over your older one but they’re still largely the same…wish they’d update a little better than they have but still a solid choice, imo. I’ve actually heard nice things about the Klein models, too, but I’ve never used one.
eddiesky
I wasn’t aware of Klein lights! Check this one out! Rechargeable and a wide band LED… https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/headlamps/wide-beam-headlamp-strap
Yeah, the BD models are dated, and I wonder if suffer from same button on while stored issue…since I store in tool bag and sometimes it comes on… another AAA to have on hand. Rather have rechargeable.
Thanks for the Klein suggestion… “if its Klein, its mine!”
JR Ramos
The BD lamps are very pack-and-pocket worthy. It’s not easy to depress the power button anyway (fine for normal use, just does well in a cramped space) but you can also lock it out where if the button does get depressed or held down it won’t power on the emitter. Good design there. I still like them for actual hiking and backpacking because despite their drawbacks with light color/brightness they have very good run time, they’re compact, and just good lights. For other light uses I much prefer various flashlights and work lights but I’ll never get rid of or quit using my BD models. I prefer the Spot over the Storm but they’re pretty similar.
PETE
Prerun 2 has been my light of choice for years now. Perfect balance IMO.
Alan
Have you heard of millertech headlights? They are just as bright if not brighter then the Fenix. The Millertech feels lighter on the head I have both and use them both.
john
I work for a major airline, midnight shift. i have a headlamp on 10 hr a day every day. Coast is my go to but looking at the fenix HP35R.