Last year Stuart talked about the Craftsman Mach convertable screwdriver and gave us his first impressions. This year when Stuart asked me what tools from Craftsman I wanted to test, I requested one.
The Craftsman Mach Series screwdriver is currently on sale for $15.
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I really like Klein Rapi-Driv style drivers, after buying one as part of last year’s shopping spree that Stuart sent me out on, but due to their offset handle design, it’s hard to really torque fasteners tight.
This Craftsman Mach Series convertible screwdriver is supposed to give you the best of both worlds: the speed of a Rapi-Drive-style screwdriver in one configuration, and also the torque of a T-handled driver when you fold the handle in.
Actually, it’s more of a hybrid between a T-handle and an L-handle, but for this post I’m going to call it T-handle screwdriver mode for brevity.
The screwdriver comes with a selection of 10 insert bits that store in a rubber caddie. The bits included are Phillips #1, #2, and #3; slotted 1/4″, 9/32″, and 5/16″; and hex 1/8″, 5/32″, 3/16″, and 1/4″.
First Impressions
I was not impressed with the handle, it squeaks and feels like it’s cheap plastic with a very thin rubber overmold. Also there’s too much friction between the handle and the shaft so it doesn’t spin smoothly.
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And, at least on the screwdriver I have, there’s one spot in the rotation where the handle gets hung up. So as you are turning the screwdriver you feel: spin, clunk, spin, clunk, spin, clunk.
The rubber caddie clips onto the shaft of the screw driver for storage, but should be removed to use the screwdriver. Also, one of the bit storage holes is slightly oversized, leading to a loose fit, with the same bit frequently falling out as I carry the holder around.
There’s no in-handle storage for the bits, but the end of the screwdriver can be popped off with the aid of another screwdriver. Once you get inside you can see that the shaft doesn’t go all the way though to the end of the handle, but stops somewhere in the middle. This is probably part of the reason why the handle doesn’t turn as smoothly as it should.
There looks to be room for 6 of the 10 included bits in the remaining empty handle space, but since you can’t get the end cap off and back on easily. The handle was not designed for bit storage.
My last gripe is about how when you move the handle into its T-driver position, the handle still spins. The changing position of your grip on the T-handle is something you shouldn’t have to worry about when you are trying to apply a lot of torque to a fastener. It’d be nice if it locked in one position.
That all said, there are some positive aspects about this screwdriver. The bent screwdriver shaft is thick and beefy, and the slide-out screw retainer is nice and stiff — it stays exactly in the position you put it.
Also, the joint that allows you to convert the screwdriver from Rapi-Driv style to T-handle style is very positive. It locks into either position and there’s no feeling like it’ll slip and bend at the wrong moment.
Using the Mach Screwdriver
I’ve been trying to use the Mach Screwdriver in a variety of tasks in the shop and around the house. One of the first things I try with every new screwdriver is to remove and replace one of the screws on the above light switch.
The 1/4″ insert bit fit into the screw head perfectly, but as I started to crank the screw out, I started losing my cranking rhythym and the screwdriver slipped. I found I had to be more careful with this screwdriver than with even the wrong sized insert bit on the Rapi-Driv. I’m not sure if it was the lack of smoothness or the extra wobble in the handle because the shaft doesn’t go all the way through.
Once you get use to the screwdriver, it really does a good job at its primary function of trading a bit of torque potential for extra speed. You can rapidly drive a screw until you need more torque, then bend the handle and finish driving the screw with the extra leverage the T-handle configuration gives you.
Final Thoughts
I’ve said a lot of negative things about this screwdriver and I still agree with all of my initial assessments, but despite that I’ve found myself wanting to pick up and use the screwdriver whenever it’s in sight. It may be a character flaw that I have a thing for Rapi-Driv-type screwdrivers, or it just may be that it’s actually fun to use when you get the hang of it.
The problems I have with the Mach Screwdriver isn’t because it’s cheaply made, it’s that I think it has some real design flaws. It reminds me of a beta product. There are many parts that are well designed and executed, and then there are parts that make you scratch your head and think, “Why did they do that?”
Despite its imperfections, I still think it’s a neat screwdriver.
But to get a glowing recommendation, the handle needs to be made from a better quality plastic; you can’t fake quality with a rubber overmold. Also I could forgive the lack of storage if they made the shaft extend all the way through the handle, which would hopefully help to eliminate the clunk in the shaft rotation and make the handle spin more smoothly. As a bonus, I’d like to see the handle lock so it doesn’t spin freely when it’s in T-handle position, but that might be asking too much.
Sears lists the regular price of this screwdriver at $30, but right now they are discounting it to $15.
Thank you to Craftsman for providing the review sample unconditionally.
Jim Felt
I don’t mind “them” having any number of lesser brand names within the K Mart/Sears group but this?
What a sad commentary on the fall from grace of the once vaunted name “Craftsman”.
ToolBoxHero
The Klein Rapi-Driv is still my favorite cordless screwdriver 🙂
Nate 818
They’re nice. I’m in the same boat
Pete
My favorite “cordless” is a m12 impact driver! Lol
SteveR
I’m not an engineer, nor an electrician, so my comments come from an average-guy viewpoint. I suppose the rapid-drive (offset) screwdrivers came about to drive screws rapidly; i.e., a lot of them the same way and with minimal force over a day’s work. I can see the value of one while installing/reinstalling screws on light switches; you want to do it quickly, but not with enough force to crack the plastic faceplate most of them have. A screw there doesn’t need to be tightened that much, as the plate’s service use doesn’t depend on torqueing the screw down to so many inch-pounds.
You can’t torque a screw down as easily with an offset driver because it’s, well…offset; your force isn’t directed in a straight line, and is therefore reduced. That, again, prevents an apprentice from cracking plates, slowing down the workflow and increasing costs.
What I’ve never understood is why they use slotted screws on so many of them, instead of Phillips screws. The slotted screw permits the screwdriver to slip out easily and/or mess up the painted screw. Anyway, it’s not what I would have chosen. My best guess is that it’s easier to paint and hide a slotted screw on a faceplate than a Phillips. A Phillips screw has more “facets” to it, which don’t blend in as well as a slotted screw does.
The slotted screwdriver, while initially appealing, has limited use for the average guy. It seems specific to the trades, so I don’t see it’s value to the homeowner. If I need to drive screws quickly, I’d just grab one of my ratcheting screwdrivers (which seem to be my go-to drivers these days anyway). It doesn’t lunge or wobble in use, and can fit in tighter spaces as it doesn’t require as large a turning radius to operate.
SteveR
Sorry, in the first sentence of the last paragraph I meant to say “offset” screwdriver, rather than “slotted”.
Mike
The slotted screws are still used so electricians have something to spend frivolous amounts of time on and also to give them a reason to complain about other electricians. The slots simply MUST all be aligned vertically no matter how much time is spent adjusting and repositioning plates. If some other electrician doesn’t do it? Well, then he/she is unquestionably a hack.
John
I had it explained to me by an electrician who took it very seriously and said that the screw head slot needs to be perfectly vertical and aligned because dust will settle on the slot instead of falling through. I just smiled and nodded.
GTX
As an electrician, I say your electrician friend is a fool and just tried to BS is way out of why we do it. Whether they are vertical or horizontal, most guys are at least anal about them being uniform.
And I use my “twirly” klein screwdriver with the phillips/flat all the time when it comes to device work. Lighter than a drill but faster than a normal screwdriver. I wouldn’t call it a must have for most people.
Mike
The driver slipping out of the faceplate screws likely has more to do with the bit than the driver itself. Craftsman’s newer slotted bits are awful. Each have the same blade thickness regardless of the width, from 1/8″ up to 5/16″. So on smaller screws they end up gripping little more than the lip of the slot.
This began, not coincidentally, with the move to China.
Benjamen
>>The driver slipping out of the faceplate screws likely has more to do with the bit than the driver itself
Actually no, if you read what I wrote I said the wrong size on the Rapi-Driv. I bought one of the Rapi-Drivs with a dual 3/16″ and #2 Philips bit, which is the wrong size for a slotted light cover screw.
It is easier to use the Rapi-Drive with the wrong size bit than the clunky action Mach screwdriver with the 1/4″ bit that fits the slotted screw correctly.
Mike
I did read what you wrote, did you read what I did?
The Klein 3/16″ fits fully into the slot on the screw because the blade is thin enough to reach the bottom of the channel. None of those Craftsman bits will, because they are all the same thickness and all too thick. Those bits will reach a few thousandths of an inch into the channel and stick there, making poor contact and causing the bit to pop out constantly. Take one of the screws out and place it on any or all of the slotted bits. Look at the engagement profile. See that gap between the end of the bit and the bottom of the screw channel? That’s why it won’t hold.
All the Craftsman bits are the same thickness, that thickness being appropriate for a 5/16″ or larger blade size. Why do that? Brittle steel + thin blade = instantly broken drive bit.
Nobody I know uses a 1/4″ driver on plates, it’s too easy to scratch and gouge the plate if it isn’t centered exactly.
Jim Felt
Yes. No kidding.
Benjamen
Sorry Mike, I misread your point because I was trying to make a point about how the action of the Mach handle throws off your cranking motion… as it turns out in addition to the ill fitting bit.
You do have a point about the thickness of the screwdriver blades, The Craftsman bit doesn’t engage all the way to the bottom of a cover plate screw, but it is engaging way more than a few thousands of an inch. I’m measuring about 0.050″ of the full 0.075″.
For comparison the Klein 1/4″ bit from my 11 in 1 screwdriver fits the cover plate screws exactly. It both hits the bottom of the slot and is the exact width of the slot so there is no slop. I’ve taken to using that bit in my Rapi-Drive, because it makes it 10x easier to use.
I used it in that fashion to remove and replace all the cover plates in my shop when I color coded them for the different breakers and didn’t have any problems with the slot being off centered and scratching, but then again it may be different with different styles of cover plates. I’ll concede that I wasn’t concerned about how fast I was working, but I wasn’t puttering either.
Interestingly I also looked at how the Dewalt Maxfit 1/4″ screwdriver fits the screw, and while it doesn’t hit the bottom, it’s thinner so it engages more of the slot.
ToolBoxHero
Like Mike says, a true electrician’s point screwdriver is the width of the bottom of the slot and is concave/hollow ground. (They used to be called cabinet makers screwdrivers) These tips fit into the bottom of the slot and actually grip the screw instead of trying to slip out like today’s chisel ground tips.
Craftsman only makes chisel ground tips and the only real use for their red/white screwdriver (and most others on the market) is for opening paint cans.
I’ve been begging Craftsman to make an electricians point screwdriver for 15 years. Every time I think I’m getting somewhere they either change out all the tool buyers or they drop a line like the pro series.
It makes you wonder if they will ever decide to start making tools for people who want and need real tools instead of the latest “Xmas crap” from China.
ToolBoxHero
I finally found the document I was looking for. The training booklet “Maintenance and Care of Hand Tools” page 92 shows the difference between a properly ground screwdriver and the current crop of chisel point screwdrivers.
Here’s the link: https://www.ibiblio.org/hyperwar/USA/ref/TM/pdfs/TM9-867.pdf
Benjamen
I know what I’m reading tonight. There’s a lot of good stuff in that booklet. Thanks.
Nathan
I have the klien ones in philps and slot. they have one purpose, well one real purpose.
putting on and taking off switch and plug face plates. with a side of other low torque, long thread items.
For anything else I find I’m pulling the kobalt double drive. Now I like the pivot handle idea but I’d only want that on a straight shafted, ratcheting driver. the offset just doesn’t lend it self to that.
In My Opinion. but I love my offsets for taking off and putting on faceplates.
bm
” The Craftsman Mach Series screwdriver is currently on sale for $15. ”
far too expensive , ( design flaws)
Andrew
I’ve had this piece of junk sitting in my tool box since last Christmas. It’s never been used.
Will
I’m writing as a home handy man. I own both the Klein Rapi-Driv screwdriver and the similar Craftsman driver.
I have a couple thoughts and observations: the Klein is best for what it is designed for = small screws and socket plates.
The Craftsman driver has its quality issues as you’ve documented, i.e. cheap handle, etc. However, I found that applying a little 3-in-1 oil through the removable handle cap into the rotator eliminates the squeaking and actually makes the drive function work more smoothly than the Klein driver.
The handle remains a cheap POS, as do the Craftsman bits (I’d recommend Milwaukee or DeWalt bits to replace), but the driver does work very well with some oil.