My sister called me up the other day – I’ve got a check engine light, what does it mean? When a car develops a certain type of issue, or potential problem, it will alert you with such an alert, or similar. Not only will it tell you there’s a problem, it’ll give you specifics, by way of an OBD2 code.
OBD stands for on-board diagnostics. OBD II, or OBD2, is a diagnostic standard that was made mandatory for all cars sold in the USA since 1996. Cars sold elsewhere have similar requirements.
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So I told my sister to take her car to Advance Auto, as they’ll often do a free OBD scan. They’ll even print out the results and tell you what it means.
Some repair shops charge a check engine light diagnostic fee, even if all they do is hook up a OBD II code reader to your vehicle – the same that many parts shops will do for free.
You can also read the OBD code yourself – all you need is a scan tool, which isn’t as expensive as you might think. The new Craftsman scan tool shown here is just $70.
Craftsman just came out with a new OBD II car code reader, model 3030SC, that they say is new and improved. They actually came out with a number of new code readers, but I wanted to focus on the most inexpensive one, due to its low price point and greater simplicity.
It connects to your car’s OBD II port, which is usually somewhere in the driver’s side under the steering column, and will read out the trouble code and general definition.
You can then do some online research to learn more about the problem. Maybe it’s something you can tackle yourself, or it might it’s complex enough to warrant a repair shop visit.
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You could read and then CLEAR the trouble code. But don’t clear a code thinking that your car will pass inspection, as it’ll come back until the problem is fixed.
Additional features include ABS (anti-lock brake) code diagnostics, and according to the product image there’s also a Freeze Frame feature that could offer additional insight to the problem.
More expensive and sophisticated models often add additional diagnostic features, or add the capability to read different codes in older vehicles.
Generally, the least you want is a code reader that can read, explain, and clear a code. This new Craftsman model is priced at $70, and seems to be reasonably well featured, especially compared to older and simpler models that only spit out a code number.
Over at Amazon, there are many different makes and models of scan readers that start at under $20. The lowest I’d go is with the Actron CP9125 PocketScan ($50 via Amazon), but it lacks on-screen definitions. There’s also the Actron CP9550 PocketScan Plus ($~66 via Amazon), but at that price I’d sooner get the Craftsman.
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An OBD II scan tool will usually pay for itself with just one or two code reads.
Jerry
I’ve been meaning to get one of these someday. Sometimes when my wife fuels up, she doesnt tighten the gas cap all the way, which makes the Check Engine light come on. Tighten the cap, and after about a week, the light goes out on its own. However, I’m afraid someday it will actually have something go wrong, and I’ll ignore it since the CE light is on almost as much as off because of the gas cap thing. A reader to reset the light is on my bucket list.
Toolfreak
The new Craftsman reader looks like it will be a good deal when it goes on sale. I have a few of the different Actron readers, from the base PocketScan to the real-time diagnostic ones, and while it’s nice that the higher end readers give code descriptions, you still really need to go on the internet to find what a code REALLY means for the particular vehicle you’re working on.
ToolGuyd readers who don’t already have one will probably get one eventually, but for most car owners, it’s probably fine to just go to autozone or advance auto parts and have them grab the codes, then look up that info on the internet yourself, and then you’re better equipped to direct a shop to do the work, even if you don’t know much else about cars.
Pete
I have one that is bluetooth and that connect to my phone via an app. Works well dont remeber the name off the top of my head. Wasnt expensive because there isnt a screen on the unit itself.
But it's me!
I have the Bluetooth version, too. Picked up for around $30 on Amazon. The app I use is Torque on Android. It has all sorts of functions, including data logging. Apple does not appear to allow OBD reader apps, alas.
dave
Yes you can use them on Apple devices but Apple locks down bluetooth so you have to get an adapter that communicates over wifi instead. Google search for Apple Blue Tooth OBDII WIFI and you should find enough info to make the rest easier.
Cody
How do you connect it to Bluetooth
Nathan
at 70 ish dollars it looks pretty solid. would like to know just how deep a code set it will have – IE is it update able via computer.
but looks very useful. I see cheap ones that only do engine codes – which won’t help if you have AC issues, or ABS/TC issues etc. even the free code scans some auto stores offer won’t go beyond engine/transmission codes.
so I like seeing this will at least do ABS also.
Dave L.
Just be aware these readers don’t give you as much info as the analyzers mechanics have.
Stuart
True, but some info is better than being totally clueless, which of often the case when a warning light comes on.
Toolfreak
Even an analyzer that gives codes and real-time info is only as good as the person reading it, and depends whether they know what any of the info means.
In a lot of ways, a code reader is better, since you can read the code, look it up on the internet for your particular vehicle make and model, and find out what the common causes of that trouble code are.
You can save a LOT of money having your own code reader and troubleshooting this way, compared to taking the vehicle to a shop and having service techs try to decipher the info on the analyzers.
It’s still AMAZING to me that in 2015, consulting the internet for what the common causes of trouble codes are for particular vehicles is not a common practice at auto repair shops or dealerships – they still rely on making a best guess based on a very limited amount of info, hence why you get so many people complaining about a huge repair bill and the problem still not being fixed.
Joey
$70 is a steal when it comes to that type of scanner. Most around that price point tell you the code, and that’s it. My old craftsman would hook up to my PC and tell me more, but who carries a computer with them everywhere?
And as a side note, Parts shops in CA and HI are not allowed to pull codes per state law.
Harry
Determining which Diagnostic Codes you have is just the beginning. The parts houses offer free scans in an effort to sell you parts employing the shotgun technique of throwing parts at the problem. It often doesn’t work. The trouble code usually can’t tell you that a specific part failed. It only reveals that there is a problem affecting emissions resulting in a check engine light being on. Is it a part? possibly but, it can also be wiring, connector, or a software update too. There are many possibilities for each DTC. DATA is the key and code readers don’t access data. they can only access generic powertrain OBD II codes not manufacturer specific or proprietary info. You can’t fix much with a code reader but, it might be better than just looking at the check light glowing on your dash wondering why it’s on.
Stuart
True. The last time I had a check engine light, I was able to use the OBDII code, a random website or two, and maybe at least one community forum to determine the issue.
A code reader is just the beginning of the diagnostic and troubleshooting process, but it’s a good and final stop for some.
Dave L.
Well, you can google the result and maybe find out the different possible problems for that code. Having a factory manual helps a lot, but they’re not so cheap anymore.
dave
A code reader is an essential first step for many types of faults, and further data is often unnecessary and even pointless in many cases. It’s worth having a bluetooth (or wifi if an apple phone) code scanner in the glovebox of every vehicle at their present sub-$25 prices on Amazon or ebay, then if that isn’t enough to get you started on troubleshooting, you can always revert to using the expensive scanner in your, or someone else’s, garage.
Literally, if the vehicle is new enough to use CAN bus, (roughly less than 10 y/o but depends on make and model) you can get a code reader for it the size of a golf ball for $5.
fm2176
I have one of the Actrons that displays only the code. While it is no Tech 2, it set me back all of $40 or so a few years ago and has proven very useful when used in conjunction with an internet search. There are a couple of large GM truck communities that usually have the answers whenever I have any question about my Sierra.
In this day and age, when smart phones are prevalent and data plans are very common, it is nice to be able to park, pull a code, and use Google to try to determine what’s going on. Case in point: my CEL came on last Monday. I noticed it, pulled into an O’Reilly’s and pulled the code. It was a PO135, so I did a quick search for “PO135 2006 Sierra” and found that it is a heater circuit malfunction on the bank 1, sensor 1 O2 sensor. I then went to O’Reilly’s website, found the part costs $58 and rechecked a few threads about the subject. Finally decided to wait a couple of weeks and replace all of the oxygen sensors at the same time.
That definitely beats letting the problem go remain unknown, working around an auto parts store employee’s schedule, or paying a shop to diagnose the problem.
T
Disgnostics is far from a “best guess” based on anything. A good mechanic, err “Tech” spends time doing much more than reading a code and thinking real hard.
He or she will use the vague manufacturer specific or universal code as a starting point in findng the problem. For example, someone has a mid 2000s BMW that developes a stutter at idle and throws a CEL.
Owner gets their code read for free at AA, googles a couple forums, and orders up a $200 MAF sensor and three $50 ignition coils and six $10 spark plugs, after seeing ” misfire 1-6, mixture adaptation bank 1 & 2, Intake air sensor implausible value” – likely at the recommendation of the dude getting paid to answer phones and sell light bulbs.
Owner is proud they saved $100 in diagnostic fees at the local specialist and hurries home to fix their car. Two days and 8 trips to HF for tools and an overnight delivery from Amazon for a consumer repair guide later, the proud owner starts car only to find the problem still exists.
Oh snap. Discouraged, the owner makes an appointment with the local specislist for diagnostic and possible repair (oh no, hope it doesnt need an engine!).
The repair shop reads the codes on their $5k scanner/programmer, performs a 1/2hr intake leak smoke test and replaces a $30 intake boot that had developed a crack from age. Shop also performs an ecu adaptation/relearn procedure, inspects the car for safety issues, tops off fluids and tires and gives the customer some free advice. $130 + tax. Those thieves.
That being said, any cheap code reader is better than no code reader I guess.
fm2176
As a former Cadillac tech and material handling equipment road tech, I agree to an extent. If my truck was problematic, had 100k fewer miles, or I had no knowledge whatsoever about vehicles I wouldn’t hesitate to take it to a shop. Thing is, I’m at @200k, have had very few issues with the truck, and attended GM courses back when they still have campuses. Also, I’ve known far too many people who’ve gotten “gouged” by repair shops. “Gouged”, because 9 times out of 10 the shops were just doing business and the customer was too ignorant to object to additional work. Then too, sometimes it pays to make suppositions: I’ve had two codes pop up for the evaporative emissions vent valve solenoid. The first time it happened I did the standard search and found that people were being quoted $300 to over $1000 for the repair. I also found that GM redesigned the part and that the newer one cost $100. Finally, I found that the same part for a Suburban wasn’t redesigned and cost only $17. Twenty dollars and ten minutes was all it took to fix a problem that people pay 20x more for.
I’ll spend the $200 to replace the OEM O2 sensors. If the code pops up again I’ll do some more troubleshooting. The few codes that have popped up on my truck have been ones that are very common with GMT-800 series trucks. My philosophy is that the truck and its components aren’t getting any newer. If I replace something that doesn’t absolutely need replacing, what’s the harm besides a little of my time and money? Beats the heck out of sitting at a shop and with labor rates being what they are today I probably still come out better in the long run.
Matt
Seriously. I have never had a service guy say “$150”. And I have a mid-2000s BMW.
You drive in, they say $1,500. You can’t practically own an e46 without a code reader.
Matt
I don’t know how long manufacturers are going to keep making these things. Everybody has a smartphone, which has the benefit of a great touchscreen with high resolution, an I/O port, and the ability to upgrade software at will and run brand-specific code profiles.
At this point, buy a package on eBay that links your phone to your particular model, and comes with software for your car.
Zalgo
Can I use this on Toyota Innova 2010 model?