I have been getting some time in with the new Dewalt 20V Max XR cordless reciprocating saw, model DCS384, and it seems to have become my new go-to.
Dewalt sent over a test sample, along with a couple of the new XR battery options, and I’ve been putting different combinations to the test.
Frankly, I’m not too surprised at its quick cutting performance so far – this is my latest go-to Dewalt recip saw, and certain not the first.
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Prior to the new XR model, the Dewalt 20V Max with FlexVolt Advantage saw was my go-to for a very long stretch. Before that, I used the XR and 60V Max FlexVolt models regularly.
Other brands’ reciprocating saws have also served me well, but even when I switched for a while, the FlexVolt Advantage model was never far away.
Different Dewalt brushless reciprocating saws have been my regular go-to’s for a while.
For me, it comes down to power, comfort, and convenience. I trust that the new model will be just as reliable as its predecessors.
This saw features a brushless motor, 1-1/8″ stroke length, and 3000 SPM cutting speed. That’s the same as for Dewalt’s older flagship reciprocating saws. So what’s different? Basically, it comes down to the XR batteries.
The new XR recip saw follows the 20V Max XR Power Detect saw closest in spirit. The Power Detect model delivered a performance boost when powered by a higher capacity 20V Max battery, while the 20V Max with FlexVolt Advantage saw delivered a boost when powered with FlexVolt batteries.
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I switched between PowerStack 5Ah and PowerPack 8Ah batteries, and couldn’t consistently tell a difference between cutting performance. I could tell a difference, however, when using some of Dewalt’s legacy batteries, such as the non-XR 5Ah battery (which was formerly XR-branded), or the XR compact PowerStack battery.
I don’t consciously choose a go-to saw, it just happens naturally; my “go-to” reciprocating saw is just the one that I tend to always grab first, or never put away.
Honestly, the saw feels very familiar; the only major difference I could tell is that it achieves its top cutting performance with different batteries than previous models.
I believe that the saw delivers the best performance when paired with the PowerPack 8Ah battery, but the PowerStack 5Ah comes close. I am under the impression that the PowerPack 8Ah is the best choice for longer high-demand cutting sessions, but I haven’t had any marathon cutting sessions yet.
All that said… I haven’t experienced any downsides yet, and I feel good about the saw.
I should mention that vibrations seem average.
Dewalt says that this is their fastest cutting reciprocating saw (when cutting 2×12 pine with the PowerPack 8Ah battery and DW4802 wood-cutting blade). I haven’t tested the saw with a stopwatch, but I can tell you that it hasn’t bogged down yet when paired with the PowerPack battery.
Again, I’m not surprised by this, as the preceding models were already well dialed in.
Price: $280 for the kit with charger and 1x XR PowerPack 8Ah Battery
Home Depot has the kit at $349. Home Depot and the other retailers have the tool-only for $249. However, Home Depot also has a tool-only with PowerPack 8Ah battery bundle for the same price – $249.
$280 is a great price for the kit compared to the tool-only price, but if you don’t need the fast charger or tool bag, the bundle might be a better way to go.
I’ll be holding onto this test sample for a while – please let me know if you have any questions! I’ll provide updates should my experiences with the saw change over the coming months, but I don’t expect it to.
My only complaint about Dewalt’s 20V Max saws is that the front grip grooves can fill with mud when used for things like stump-removal tasks, but they’re fairly easy to clean. I’ve done it before – Do You Clean Your Power Tools?.
Thank you to Dewalt for providing the review sample!
Philip
They really missed it for me by not adding a rafter hook. I do primarily framing, and 75% of my Sawzall work is on a ladder. Seems asinine not to have one
Tdot77
Sidingtips.com make a rafter hook that clips right in. I know it’s for the 388 but the 384 is exactly the same body\frame so it should be exactly the same fit. I agree that it should come with one but thankfully we have a very good aftermarket support system nowadays. 3D plastic printing has brought a whole nother level of modifications possible into our hands now, just look at all the stuff available on etsy\ebay to make each tool or box your own style\fit. Hope this helps
Mateo
I’m assuming this has the flap/latch blade release on the side? The smaller xr where you have to turn the collet to release the blade was a royal pain in the neck. Blades would get stuck regularly and require pliers to retrieve.
Not having a rafter hook is just ridiculous.
Doug N
I’d love to hear from Dewalt why they don’t have an orbital cutting option on any of their reciprocating saws, nor a rafter hook. Both are essential IMO.
MM
I’ve been wondering about that for a long time as well. The lack of an orbital function is puzzling.
Something else that seems odd to me: the DCS367 is a good saw that has the potential to be amazing if they made some updates. The compact size and 4-way blade clamp make that saw very handy. Its only real problem is vibration. If they updated the mechanism to reduce vibration and made the shoe adjustable that would be a killer saw.
JR Ramos
I’ve always wondered why they didn’t just turn the Porter Cable Tigersaw yellow after they bought them (or SBD, rather). It was the best saw on the market at the time. If they could rework that for cordless and keep the great low-vibration design and the orbital, adjustable shoe, etc. they’d have a real winner. Of all that I’ve tried out the Bosch recip saws really seem to be the nicest to me…got to use that newer one with the different handle angle and it’s a great tool. Agreed on the rafter hook if they could do it unobtrusively and make it removable for those who don’t need them.
My biggest peeve with the majority of what’s out there now is the fixed shoes – so very handy to be able to adjust that out at times, either application or extending blade life.
S
About 5 years ago, my m18 sawzall died spontaneously, so I got the m18 super sawzall that has both those options.
The ladder hook got used on almost every job.
While I insisted on getting the super sawzall for the orbital cutting option, I ended up almost never using it. And in the situations where I had long tedious cuts to make, I’d switch between the options to check cut speed. I always found cut speed to be determined by the blade quality and battery charge than either straight or oscillating blade movement.
A large factor that caught me off guard is that all sawzall blades from all brands are inserted at a small angle. Meaning that straight or oscillating options are somewhat cancelled out by the angled blade insertion.
Quality carbide task-specific blades made far more of a difference in work speed, from pruning to cutting cast iron for me than any saw features. The good news is that blades are universal consumables, which can make any sawzall from any brand great.
S
And forgot to add, one of the great DeWalt options that isn’t mentioned in the article is the innovative dual blade angle tip options that makes the saws far more useful than even my m18 sawzall in many cases.
I’m definitely jealous that only DeWalt saws have that option.
Justin Drever
What are the “dual blade angle tip options” you’re referring to?
Richard Miller
I believe orbital is overrated, and for more people, the value primarily exists between their ears.
JR Ramos
It really depends what you’re doing. On a full stroke (call it 1-1/8″) saw and provided you can hold the tool firmly against the work the difference is very noticeable. Same for jig saws where the tech was first introduced (I find it to be of little value on a jig saw myself, though). Or, y’know sometimes a circular saw or router is a better choice if possible.
Harrison
No orbital, and no rafter hook are inexcusable for a pro/flagship recip saw in 2024.
I’m sure this is a fine saw for Dewalt users, but I see no reason to pick it over superior saws on the market, especially the HiKoki and Makita with their anti vibration mechanisms.
“Stump removal” implies this saw has been tested mostly for homeowner type tasks, hence glossing over the mediocre vibration control, and missing features.
KMR
So about a month ago I decided to attack a maple stump from a tree I had cut down about 5 years ago. It was a sizable stump, possible a stump comprised of three co-mingled stumps, as I see to recall the tree had three main trunks that never quite seemed singular.
I have a backhoe on my Kioti compact tractor and started pulling the dirt away at the base of the multi-trunk. It just kept getting bigger and bigger, I soon had a 12x12x4ft deep pit exposed with this stump in the middle as I’m cutting through individual roots as large as 8″ in diameter. I’m using a Milwaukee M18 Fuel recip with Milwaukee and Diablo carbide tipped 12″ pruning blades.
Anyway, I get all the extraneous bits of root and stump cleared away from the center. I undermind what is left of the stump as well as I can, but I’m now into a layer of clay, and it is getting really hard to angle the backhoe bucket teeth to scratch away more material under this stump. I’m now using a pick mattock to try and get under and clear out under the stump mass so I can rock and topple it over and then drag it out with the tractor.
Nope. This stump was no match for a 3500lb 30hp compact tractor. I figured that since the pruning blades worked so well – so far – I’d section the remainder of the stump with them. And this is where I found the limited of the M18 Fuel reciprocating saw. I was overheating and exhausting M18 5.0 batteries in quick succession. Still not wanting to put a chain saw into a mixed dirt/wood scenario, I figured I’d drag out an old corded reciprocating saw. This was a Hitachi unit I bought probably 20 years ago and haven’t used much in 10+ years, the convenience of cordless has caused me to retire and shelve most corded tools, and even get rid of many of them.
The corded Hitachi managed to do what the cordless Milwaukee couldn’t. It did it happily and without complain, only getting a bit warm to the touch. I had forgotten one of the major benefits of corded power tools was there incredibly high, almost inexhaustible, duty cycle. I have formed a habit of overlooking my corded tools for the convenience of cordless, which most of the time is OK for short op jobs. But this stump was a battery buster for the M18 reciprocating saw. The Hitachi has now earned its keep and its blow-molded case is back sitting next to the M18 in the shop. There are just some jobs where cordless doesn’t cut it, and this maple stump was one of them.
S
Agreed.
I was in a similar situation trying to help my sister remove a couple of large tree’s from their property , and even broke out my 2 each of m18 12.0 and 9.0 batteries in addition to six m18 6.0 batteries. All fully charged…
The 2 foot carbide pruning blades were awesome the entire time, far outlasting standard non carbide blades, and the large tooth spacing kept the blades from gunking up no matter how far into the clay filled root system I jammed them.
But all 10 of my batteries were used up, with two charged and re-used before the second tree even loosened up.
My dad’s antique all-metal corded sawzall ended up finishing the last 3 tree’s without issue, with the cordless transitioning to playing second fiddle and serving as final cleanup instead.
Cordless is great, but corded still has plenty of place on job sites for hard-use tools.
KMR
Where can I get a 2 foot carbide tipped pruning blade? That would definitely have been useful! I recall looking for longer blades (than 12″) and couldn’t find any before I started the project.
AFAIK, the Milwaukee and Diablo carbide pruning blades stop at 12″ in length. I had both on hand, and I’d rate the Milwaukee marginally better, but it would just be a feeling.
fred
A quick search spotted these 15-inch ones on Amazon – but not carbide teeth
https://www.amazon.com/EZARC-Japanese-Reciprocating-Pruning-Trimming/dp/B0CSYHKQJW
The only other longer then 12-inch reciprocating saw blades that I know of are designed for cutting brick. I would think that when you get over 12 inches in length blade flexing might be a big issue.
JR Ramos
If there’s an implication with stump removal I’ll bet you a dollar it has more to do with savvy marketing an understanding their entire user base (as well as their primary retail sales outlets) so they used it as an additional marketing bullet point, nothing more. DeWalt has never ever been concerned with vibration, just making small gains and usually catching up to others even back in the late 90s when there was a bigger push toward reducing hand-felt vibration for OSHA workplace standards. Milwaukee was never great at that either but Bosch and Porter Cable led that train…Makita was erratic about it but does much better today. Some tools today are loads better in that aspect but some are just like they were two decades ago.
Patrick
I’ve been a DeWalt user since 2013. Took advantage of a Metabo HPT deal to try out their 36v recip saw and it was a night & day difference. Sold my old DeWalt DCS380 and have not looked back.
Dewalt saws are better with blade change but fall behind with other features like the rafter hook, vibration control, speed setting and control… they need to up their game as I now slowly move a number of my tools to the Green side
Stuart
The DCS380 is a brushed model that launched more than 13 years ago. Back then, there were 2 battery options, 1.5Ah and 3Ah.
Any pro brand’s full-size brushless saw should perform far better.
Badger12345
In my experience the Dewalt recip saws have higher than average vibration. I would lose sensation in my hands after only 10 minutes of use. I have now settled on a Milwaukee that I prefer for many reasons, but mostly because of much lower vibration.
Patrick
Yup. I sold my old 20v DeWalt saw and went Metabo HPT and the vibration difference was insane. Dewalt needs to refine some of its offerings
OccidentallyGood
DeWalt sawzalls are going down the drain. These new ones take a **** in a couple months. It’s not even the same part on them either. The dissatisfaction with one tool has made me question the rest of mine. Had a brushless circular saw die after it’s 200th cut? (Background owned for 4 years but do not use it a lot due to having company tools. Prior to this it only cut small garage projects, saw only cut 4 treated deck boards)
Stuart
I haven’t had any problems, and haven’t heard of any problems. What exactly happened to your recip saw?
PW
I’d like to know more about “vibration seems average”. That’s not what I’m looking for. That’s honestly my only – but major – complaint about my old OG 20v brushed motor DeWalt recip saw.
I dislike using it purely from the vibration, and if that’s not improved in the new models, I have zero interest.
Chris
I like Dewalt’s recip saws. They’ve always been reliable.
I wish they would add more convenience features like an adjustable shoe plate. I know others want a rafter hook. Oh and the 4 way blade holders were the bomb. Don’t know why all their recips don’t have them.
SV
I’m going to stick with my Metabo HPT saw. It’s loaded with features. Rafter hook, orbital cutting, adjustable boot length. Variable speed control dial, very little vibration. I’ve considered going to dewalt several times as that would be one less battery platform for me but am not going to give up all these perks for a new boring saw.
Evan
I also love my HPT saw, and it sees a lot more action than my corded saw these days – so much more that I actually cant find my corded one anymore. Eek!
Stuart
I got a free corded Milwaukee Sawzall a few years ago, thanks to a rebate offer, and it has yet to see its first use. Cordless is so much more convenient.
Richard Miller
Ah, but I’ll never get rid of my corded Sawzall… simply because it was my late father’s first one. Papa was a plumber, and I grew up with this Sawzall. He started his plumbing business in 1971 and he bought this one used at a pawn shop. It was factory rebuilt twice, but it’s still going strong. When people ask me why I love Milwaukee so much, I point to this Sawzall and say “They earned my loyalty with a saw that has been running for over 50 years and have kept it through their quality, innovation, and dedication to the trades.”
I was a Master Plumber, but now I have left the trades and am basically white collar. But I use my tools a lot. I’m building a house, and it’s so cool to have all the pro-grade tools and the skills to use them professionally. I just wish I could call Papa and talk to him about the plumbing and heating in our house, and about my latest tool acquisitions.
Dammit, now I am crying… I miss Papa.
fred
I too have an old Milwaukee Sawzall. Having started in the family plumbing business in earnest back in 1960 – mine was one of the early models handed down to me. Mine is has an all-aluminum skin – but is in the signature Milwaukee red metal box. I’m guessing that when it was originally acquired in the 1950’s if you wanted a reciprocation saw – you bought a Milwaukee Sawzall since there was no competition yet. I’m not sure when their patent ran out but to this day – competitor’s models are often still called “sawzall’s” based on Milwaukee’s trademarked name. Today there may be better recip-saws than Milwaukee’s but after TTI saved the company from bankruptcy – they seem to have been reborn as an innovation leader hearkening back to their roots.
Dave
Most of the cutting I do these days is cutting up pallets to fit in the dumpster, but my go-to is always the one-handed hackzall.
I don’t see how a full-size recip saw could ever be a go-to for cutting tasks.
Stuart
Speed.
I recently gave away my purchased Atomic saw, but I still have my free-with-rebate Hackzall.
Compact saws shine in compact spaces or at-reach. But when it comes to cutting speed, you need a bigger motor, and that tends to mean greater size and weight that requires two hands for better control.
I’m not making decisions here, just relaying on what I tend to reach for most.
Dave
The larger ones are definitely faster. For me, I guess, the one-handed operation and light weight is worth the extra time it takes.
Clay
I just ordered a Hackzall yesterday from Fasteners as they had a deal where shipped it came to just under $100.
The one hand Atomic has such great ergonomics, but it definitely underpowered.
At least for my uses. Maybe fine for PVC and copper.
I always wondered why they did not have an XR version with more oomph.
JR Ramos
They are definitely faster cutting, owing mostly to the longer stroke length (1/4″ may not seem like much but it makes a huge difference). Those with orbital action can also tear through a lot quicker if you can hold the tool firm and don’t care about cut quality. The added 2-hand leverage is absolutely better, too, all kinds of ways. And if you’re fond of plunge cuts it’s much easier with the longer inline tool.
Personally, it took me a long time to finally try and buy a one-hander (Bosch 18v for me…it’s excellent), but the one-hander is now what I almost always use. Shorter stroke but it has all the power that most full size ones do (those that I’ve used, cordless). Makes some plumbing tasks easier, too, fits in tighter places. Other than being a tad slower and missing things like an adjustable shoe and the extra leverage, I don’t think it has too many disadvantages. That said, there are some out there (12 or 18 volt both) that lack a bit in the power department.
Richard Miller
I grew up cutting pipes, etc. one handed with a corded Milwaukee Sawzall. I still do. I’m a soft white-collar dude these days, but I still have no problem using my M18 Sawzall one handed. You kinda just get used to it and her’s the big thing, you learn to let the saw do a lot of the work. work WITH the saw instead of against it.
fred
When Milwaukee came out with the cordless M12 Hackzall I was skeptical about its use – because it seemed wimpy to me. But we bought a few to try in both the plumbing and remodeling businesses. The carpenters hated them, the plumbers thought they were great. No way they were going to cut out old cast iron or steel pipe – but for cutting out plastic and copper in tight spaces I guess they were just right. I think the guys have since upgraded from that 16-year-old model – but the concept is still the same.
Andrew
If you haven’t already, I recommend you try a battery-powered small circular saw for this. I’ve cut up countless pallets with all the options, and dismantled more with hand tools. It’s my first choice now.
bg100
Does this model have the 4-way blade chuck? It’s been an absolute essential for me for years now, and I won’t spend money on a recip saw without it now.
I have 3 well used saws needing replaced soon… This one could be it.
fred
I just bought a Metabo-HPT 36V saw kit for a nephew’s Xmas gift. Not sure about either the price of how good it will work – but Acme had it $40off.
https://www.acmetools.com/metabo-hpt-36v-multivolt-brushless-reciprocating-saw-kit-cr36dam/S0000000017813.html
Robm11b
The dewalt reciprocating saw is my least liked and used tool. I had the Flexvolt and Power detect recip saws. They are loud, vibrate terribly, no adjustable shoe, and no orbital action. Up until very recently most Dewalt tools were very basic and featureless and trailing the competition.
Stuart
My XGT has orbital action and an adjustable shoe. It became my go-to for a while. I rarely used the orbital action, and the adjustable show was slightly convenient – but not critical – a couple of times. It’s a good saw, I’m not giving away.
I’ve been reducing my active battery count, and that’s a big part of why the XR became my go-to again.
I haven’t found any recip saw that’s not fatiguing to use after a while. The only thing I can realistically hope for is less power/performance drop in heavier or thicker cuts.
Big Richard
Worth pointing out is a rebrand of the also pictured FlexVolt Advantage DCS386. Same stator/switch/controller assembly, same rotor, all the guts. So if a user already has the 386, it is NOT any upgrade to go to this new 384.
The Power Detect DCS368 model used a different stator/switch/controller assembly but the same rotor, so it is ever so slightly different from the 368. But we are talking marginal differences, so again I would not recommend users go out and “upgrade”.
Stuart
If buying a new recip saw within the Dewalt 20V Max line, I’d go for this one over the Power Detect, FlexVolt Advantage, and previous XR models. But if a user already has the FA or PD models, I’m not sure if it’s worth upgrading.
Big Richard
If buying new I would first recommend looking at least looking at the FVA and PD models since you can find them on some pretty good clearance sales.
scott
I have my old ridgid 120v that I bought in 1999 and that thing will cut cross ties, it is a beast. Carbide pruning blades make short work of damn near anything.
eddiesky
I’ve a Makita (corded) AVT (anti-vibration tech) that was a monster cutting up an old oil tank (inside basement, above ground, no leaks). It has 1-1/4 stroke and I might consider a cordless… thing is I now have dewalt AND milwaukee M18 fuel … so if I find one on reconditioned…
For now, I’m still corded. Its paid for.