My goal for 2018 was to maximize the space in my shop. It had grown organically, and I knew I could be more organized. I quickly realized that off-the-shelf options weren’t going to work for me, and so I set out to design and build my own tool storage cabinets and solutions.
After starting my research, mostly on Pinterest, I came up with the following goals:
- Maximize the space: I don’t want or like dead space
- Flexibility to add and re-purpose as my needs changed
- Portability, so I could take it to our next house
- Finally, I wanted uniformity, not a big mixture of different brands
After a bunch of research, I discovered aluminum extrusions and now I’m hooked!
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Getting Started
I decided to break the ice by designing a replacement for 2 to 3 random tool chests with a single cabinet that slides under my existing benches.
Like most, I started by looking at 80/20 products, but I wasn’t too impressed with their customer service after getting a design created. I set myself an initial budget of ~$250 and they seemed to cater more towards people with a bigger budget.
My research led me to Faztek, and in particular Jamie Howard ([email protected]) from their Inside Sales Team. I’ve been really happy with their help, from an initial design, to how they answered my random questions. Faztek products are not only less expensive than 80/20’s, but they are really willing to work on small project like this.
Designing the Frame
I started by sending an outline of my goals to Faztek, including the dimensions for the space I wanted to fill. They quickly sent back a design which met all my needs and helped me understand how they’d construct the frame.
Their designer recommended the 1515 Lite Smooth T-Slotted aluminum extrusion, with 1515 meaning that it has 1.5″ x 1.5″ cross sectional dimensions. I think 1010 (1.0″ x 1.0″) would have been strong enough, but there’s a broader range of accessories in the 15-series product family. The 1515 Lite is easily strong enough for everything I have built so far.
With this design in hand I switch to SketchUp and started to get my head around optimizing it further. Early in the process I decided that I would attempt to maximize the use of pieces of the same length\machining. My thinking was that I would learn a lot when I had all the pieces and started assembling everything.
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My existing workbenches are 30″ deep and 34″ high, and I wanted to be able to slide the cabinet under the bench. Which lead me to this design:
Planning and reasoning for extrusion lengths:
- 32″ Height: 4″ for caster wheels, plus 1.5″ each for the top and bottom (3″ total), and a 25″ column for the inner height.
- 28″ Depth: 25″ for the inner depth, plus 1.5″ each for the front and back (3″ total).
- 54.5″ Width: This is the maximum space that can fit between the legs of my workbench. These extrusions go end-to-end, from left to right.
Based on these dimensions, there would be two inner “bays,” each measuring 25″ tall by 25″ wide. The full depth of the framing is 28″.
I briefly considered 26″ for the inner height of the tool cabinet, but I felt that this wouldn’t give me any wiggle room. In hindsight, this was the right decision, because I needed room for material that sits on top or the side of my cabinet that I hadn’t initially accounted for.
I started the model with a basic box, with 8x 25″ extrusions (shown in red) and 4x 54.5″ extrusions (shown in green). I then added another 3x 25″ pieces (red) in the middle, to divide two sections for two banks of 24″ x 24″ drawers. These are not needed for strength, but I think they make the build easier.
The total for just the frame is $252, based on current list prices.
Fastener Selection
The next decision to make is how to fasten it all together. I knew this wasn’t going to be cheap, so I created a spreadsheet with a few pivot tables to look at my different options on how to assemble this design.
Stuart has posted about aluminum t-slot fastening options before, and I went through a similar analysis. You basically have three options:
- Brackets (most expensive)
- Anchor fasteners
- End fasteners (least expensive)
The cost breakdown for these three options for my build are as follows:
I concluded that brackets would be the most expensive, and on face value end fasteners are the obvious choice. I however ended up going with anchor fasteners, in part because I had already figured out a plan that used a common 25″ extrusion length. Having counter bores in these pieces gave me a standardized design that I could use in multiple ways. I have also learned that building using anchor fasteners and playing around with some ideas is easy. Installing end fasteners takes time and if you don’t like the design you end up with random holes.
Putting it All Together
With my frame design completed I needed to put it on wheels. For these I decided to shop around — you can spend a crazy amount of money on casters. I am sure there are reasons to spend $70 for casters on a very heavy cart that is constantly being moved around, but that felt like overkill.
I ended up picking a company on Amazon that had good reviews. Their 4″ caster wheels with brake are rated to 220 lbs each, for a total weight capacity of 880 lbs, and they only cost me $19.99 a set. My only hesitation with them is that after buying a few they started sending me casters that didn’t match the description, or my first order.
Faztek recommended putting a plate between the wheels and the frame, which were not cheap, but I didn’t see the need and haven’t had any regrets.
Stuart’s Note: Adding a threaded “foot attachment” can be beneficial for leveling or adjusting the height of threaded stem casters or feet. They can also be used in heavy duty plate caster applications where you need to create a fourth mounting hole location.
This brought the final bill to nearly $369.
Next Steps
Of course, that’s not the end of it. Next, you need to take this frame, add sides, a top and the drawers.
As a reminder, here is the final product. In a future post I will walk through the rest of the build and share the tips, tricks, and ideas I had along the way.
Final Thoughts
Since starting on this journey I have built 10 different carts based on this basic design, including:
- Shapeoko XL CNC router cabinet
- Kreg router top cabinet
- Four carts with various drawer sizes
- Downdraft sanding cart
- Compressor cart
- Large assembly table
- Miter saw table
I definitely blew past my budget but I am very happy with my new shop and I’ve met and exceeded all my goals.
Helpful Links
Faztek Products on Amazon
4-Pack Swivel Casters via Amazon
Faztek Website
Faztek Applications Gallery
Sketchup 3D Modeling (Free Download)
Scott K
Wow. That looks incredibly organized and well thought out. I’m very jealous of that set up. Enjoy!
BenV
Thank you!
Aaron
Looks awesome! Great timing at I’m also redoing my workshop space (two 4ft benches and the wall).
Any new comments about Wall Control for pegboard? I have lots of small stuff so thinking about lots of bins and a good way to hang tools. Maybe 4ft section Wall Control and 4ft of shelves and bins.
Thanks!!
BenV
Thanks!
The wall is my next task. I am not happy with the stability of the setup. It might be the quality of the hooks but they frequently fall out when I grab something.
I have been looking at slat panels recently but haven’t made any decisions.
Aaron
Hi Ben – thanks for the reply. Can you please clarify if the stability issues you have is with regular pegboard or Wall Control?
BenV
Sorry I meant my HomeDepot solution. I will check out Wall Control, thanks for the recommendation.
Steve
I’ve been really happy with Wall Control, mine are red and have held up great over several moves, etc.
Chris
I’ve got Wall Control panels all over my garage. I’d post pics but I can’t
Aaron
I’m also open to rebuilding the tables too, maybe with the faztek system but depends how much the drawers add to to the cost.
Looking forward to part 2
BenV
Drawers will be post #3, I’ll try to get it out ASAP 🙂
John804
Ben,
This is a great article – thank you very much. I have a very small area for a workshop, and I would truly appreciate a more detailed tour of the shop pictured above. I’m curious about the different carts you’ve made, and how useful you’ve found the tuck-under solution for tools like the router table. I’m also very interested in the enclosure you’ve got for your 3d printer.
Thanks again!
BenV
Thank you!
I have 5-6 posts queued up, and plan to share a lot more details.
In terms of usefulness. My shop is attached to a 2-3 car garage, being able to roll the router table and CNC cabinet in to this space, use them, and roll them back has been fantastic.. Having a fixed dedicated spot in my shop would have been a struggle.
John804
Fantastic! I’m looking forward to the rest of the series.
TonyT
Another vote for hearing more about the 3D Printer enclosure (looks like an original Prusa).
I also have a Prusa, and hope to eventually make a similar style enclosure (I’ve been looking into Open Builds, and am thinking about adding some features such as air filtration, fire detection, and OctoPrint)
BenV
@TonyT – Yes it’s a Prusa, but I’m waiting on my MMU 2.0 to arrive, it was meant to ship a few weeks ago! I have already got a smoke alarm and Raspberry Pi for the same reasons.
I think I will end up scrapping this design and switch to something a little more lightweight. One of the advantages of my modular design, I can reuse the 25″ pieces for something else 🙂
TonyT
I have a MMU 2.0 on order, too, supposedly will ship this month (I have a i3 Mk2, upgrading to Mk2.5 then MMU 2).
Instead of just a regular home fire detector, I’m thinking about routing the AC power through a contactor (3 phase relay), have the RPi or an ESP8266 monitor conditions, and turn off power if smoke is detected. Prusa does have firmware to detect thermistor problems, but extra protection is good.
BenV
Oh I like that idea!
John804
Unfortunately, I still don’t have a 3d printer, but it will be my next tool. I’ve been considering an enclosure with this smoke alarm rig for safety.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2148191
TonyT
If or when I finish, I will try to write it up somewhere.
@John804, thanks for the link, bookmarked. I’ll have to think about home smoke detectors vs maker devices (I just bought Grove fire detector and smoke detector from Seeedstudio).
I still want WiFi monitoring, air filtering (using a Zimpure system) and maybe other features such as additional over current protection (via fuses or circuit breaker). But I’m not going to go overboard and use a safety contactor with monitoring, hooked up to a safety PLC….
I still highly recommend the Original Prusa.
TonyT
Looks like we’ll be getting upgraded MMU2S’s
https://www.prusaprinters.org/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-and-mmu2s-release-sl1-and-powder-coated-sheets-update/
BenV
Oh that’s cool! I will see if they can bundle the MK3S upgrade when they ship it.
TonyT
@BenV, even cooler – carefully re-read the article — I’m pretty sure it said that the MMU2S included the Mk3S/MK2.5S upgrade 🙂
And this shows two more reason why Prusa is so good – they’re constantly improving their products, and they try provide upgrades as much as possible to older owners. In contrast, FormLabs announced they’re dropping support for their original printers – so I won’t be recommending them. (But sometime Prusa needs to move on from the AVR8 )
BenV
Thanks @TonyT! That’s awesome I didn’t see this. I just emailed them to ask and I guess they’ll eventually reply telling me the same!
I agree they are a pretty impressive company. 100,000 3D printers is amazing!
Jared
It’s beautiful. I can’t even wrap my head around the cost and effort that’s obviously been put into it. I can’t imagine that type of setup being worth it to me, but bravo. That’s a fantastic looking shop.
Nathan
Interesting idea – terrifying cost at least to me.
was the 369 all the AL and hardware for ALL the cabinets shown? If so what is the cost of a single cabinet with the wood, hardware, etc?
Did you price it out making out of wood – since you used quite a bit of ply anyway?
Looks good – seems functional. I’d need them a touch taller to consider working on top of one which is the nice thing about built custom. I’m sorry if I come off negative, I’m interested in doing a few similar but I don’t know I’ll use the AL route. Seems expensive for what you get. Really interesting in details on the miter and sanding units.
Thanks for taking the steps.
Graham Howe
I’m 99% certain that was the cost for the single drawer cabinet shown in the models. There are 11 of the 25″ cross members (front to back) and 4 of the longer rails (left to right) as well as 4 casters. Certainly looks like just that cabinet. Looking at all those drawers, I would imagine there is close to two full sheets of plywood in there as well so you can add on say another $120 for wood. All in all a similar cost to commercial alternatives, but custom fit/form, arguably nicer looking, satisfaction of a job well done! Very seldom do I find that my woodworking hobby saves me money, especially when I fact in my time.
Nathan
Well looking at it I’m thinking 2×2’s would have been strong enough or if you just had to do it – make actually 2×2’s with your table saw – screws etc would have saved alot on the costs of the AL pieces and the speciality hardware. Would it have looked like that – no but might have looked just as good.
I’m mostly asking if there was alternatives considered. Stuart did a bit on the AL sections also and said it was an experiment for him.
BenV
@Graham – Yes that sounds about right.
BenV
@Nathan – $369 is just the metal. In a later post I’m going to go into the top, sides and drawers. The cost of this is much more variable based on the choice of material. I have tended to use finished ply, and this obviously pushes up the cost but reduces the time to build.
I think I saw on ToolGuyd forum a discussion about the Costco $1,000 cabinet. I believe I ended up with more storage and flexibility. Yes it’s not all metal but I can easily replace a part if it gets trashed, and I can re-purpose when my needs change. I will never justify my solution is cheap, but I don’t think it’s that crazy 🙂
On height, yes that is the downside of picking the same height and depth. My fixed benches are ~32″ so I do have other options.
Nathan
OH more importantly – what’s that stool?
Blythe
dewalt
24 in. H x 16 in. W x 16 in. D Adjustable Shop Stool with Casters
https://www.homedepot.com/p/304354683
BenV
That’s the one. It’s pretty nice and comfortable, my only complaint is the height, I would prefer it was 1-2″ taller.
Nathan
are you over 6’1 by chance as that statement will probably keep me away from it.
BenV
No just under 6′.
Tom
Is there going to be more information on the drawers?
BenV
Yes, next post is on the top and sides, then another on the drawers.
John
I am more intrigued with what do you build in the shop that is not for the shop? I know people have hobbies, just curious. I so often see people dress a shop to the nines but don’t actually build much of anything except the shop itself.
The organization is excellent if a bit overpriced but that is a personal choice.
BenV
I’m fortunate to have a job that feeds my hobby, and my hobby gives me space to unwind from aforementioned job. Last year I will fully acknowledge I spent more time building for the shop than building from it 🙂
That said, in the process I have learnt a ton and these skills are going to be invaluable. They’ll help me finish the sauna, deck and a hidden room behind a bookshelf that I have yet to finish. Not having a router table stalled those projects and started this one! I got a little side tracked!
I also have two friends looking for me build them swingsets this summer.
Joe framer
A lot of work went into those . I can definitely appreciate what you did. Thoughtfully researched and great execution.
….I prefer my powder coated ,name brand units as my time is too valuable to me and the quality will last a lifetime.
Johnny4
Looks good! Time for a YouTube tour. Best way to see a shop is to see it in use.
BenV
One step at a time! I only got on Instagram last year, and now I’m writing blog posts 🙂
Jim Felt
Nice intro* piece to say the least. Keep of the madness. It’s inspirational!
* to me at least.
RCWARD
Very nice shop dude, you must feel good every time you walk by it. Nothing beats a cool shop to “ play” in.
BenV
Thanks, yes it makes me happy 🙂
Bill
Ben, did you use tiles, epoxy paint or something else on your floor? Any thoughts on your choice?
BenV
I used Rust-Oleum Epoxyshield but used HomeDepot’s Black\Grey paints chips. I used twice as many chips as they recommended because it makes the floor more grippy.
After cleaning the floor thoroughly (new garage so relatively easy), I did one coat, and 24 hours later a second coat. You only have one hour to paint after mixing so I had some help to get it all done. And the second coat must be done 24 hours later!
It’s the second time I’ve used it and I am very happy with the results.
Altan
I wish they would make them with stainless steel also.
Jim Felt
Interesting ask. But wouldn’t the price be at least 2 or 3X? And would you expect 304 or gawd forbid 316?
And how would you easily cut and tool the stuff?
Don
Beautiful shop. Makes me not want to open my garage door. But where’s the beer fridge?
Steve
Very nice! It gives insight into why toolboxes cost so much. There are probably cheaper options out there as some have menioned, but you get a lot more customization this way and you don’t have to worry about a company no longer making your matching style/series. It looks great!
Jim Felt
Ageeed. And I get laughed at for buying matching multiple roll arounds for the effort.
Davide
I think I speak for many others when I saw I would like to see a post regarding the layout of your shop and ideas that went into the design. I find myself constantly trying to figure out how to change my workspace up so it flows better and trying to increase storage as new tools are added. Your place looks awesome and the storage c abinets look amazing.
BenV
Thanks! I shall think about this and how best to explain!
Koko The Talking Ape
Wow, that looks great. And expensive.
I can’t afford even Faztek. I think I would have used steel square tube, or even just slotted steel angle, and bolted it together with angle reinforcements. I built the desk I am typing on with steel angle, with a precut 2’x4′ pine top. IIRC, it cost about $50.
Jerimi
Great post. Ben, did you custom built the bench top your cart tuck under or are they purchased?
BenV
They are Ikea Gerton table tops:
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50106773/
On Ikea table legs:
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30264301/
The tops are then Pocket Holed together underneath and attached to the wall using some big L-Brackets. They are still not as sturdy as I would like, I had to compromise a little to get the most out of the space underneath.
I used to use Kreg Universal Bench components but they wasted too much space.
Brian M
Ben, that looks SICK! I’m jealous! A bit rich for me but definitely something to aspire for..
BenV
Thanks!
David Zeller
Great post, and great looking shop.
One favor to ask. Can you post your Instagram account, and on it, can you post some (a lot of) pictures of your shop? It would be great to see these before the rest of your build posts. It helps put things in perspective, and, well, its cool.
And post the rest of your build posts soon!
Thanks,
David
Stuart
Here it is, but it’s also linked-to in his bio at the end of the post, or at the top of his author page.
https://www.instagram.com/dusty.tools/
James
It all looks great! What chair is that?
BenV
It’s the new Dewalt 24 in. H x 16 in. W x 16 in. D Adjustable Shop Stool with Casters:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/304354683
Jon
Wow, just wow. Incredible looking workspace. Well done. Standing ovation.
BenV
Thank you sir 🙂
dave
any chance of posting pictures of the joints and fasteners along with the end cap covers in an upcoming post?
BenV
Sure, that’s a relatively quick post to do. I took all the photos already but wasn’t sure how useful it would be!
Frank D
Seconding the request for those visual details 🙂
ktash
That’s a beautiful shop! Good description of using the 1515 extrusions. Nice reference for someone who’s thinking of doing anything with it
Frank D
The final look is top notch.
Waiting to see a final breakdown of what the cabinet cost.
Perhaps a single custom one could be afforded / in the cards, if it held all hand tools … but I can’t really see it happen as I need thing to be outwardly mobile, inside the house and other properties.
Collin Merritt
Hey Ben,
Fabulous work! I was wondering if you could post or PM some photos of the other tool cabinets. I am just in the process of a redesign and working with some similar tools – mitre saw, planer, CNC and a table saw. Very interested in working this style into my space.
Cheers,
Collin
Ryan Jacob
What a great looking shop! I can see you’ve put a lot of time into well thought out organizing! I wish I had the time to do something like this to my garage.
Chris
Do you know what the theoretical max weight limit of this would be?
I saw your caster weight rating, but would the rest of it hold up to that much weight?
Thanks.
ktash
I was looking at the same casters in the 3″ size two days ago. I decided against them and opted for Powertec brand, with dual locking. This means it locks both the swivel and the wheel. I’ve used dual-locking Fulton casters from Peachtree woodworking and similar ones from Rockler or Woodcraft. Thing is they are usually $40, though I’ve usually gotten them for about half that on sale. They have held up well and I’m happy with the double brakes. Almost everything in my shop is on wheels. Interesting that they have different ones with different orders.
Jim
Looks very nice, but I guess I’ve never understood the point of using t-slot aluminum systems. Square tubing a third the cost, faster to assemble via welding, and much more versatile. I guess if you don’t have a welder, but even then, on a project like this, a little wire-feed would pay for itself pretty quick.
Stuart
Welding is permanent. Mounting to steel tubing requires holes, taps, cutting fluid. Need to make changes? It’s possible, but it won’t be quick or easy. There’s also a learning curve; welding is a skill and good results or complex assemblies require experience.
While T-slot brands sometimes advertise their products as being superior to welded framing, I like to think that they’re complementary and not mutually exclusive.
Nick
They are not as sturdy as a welded table that’s for sure…also welding t slots sucks…just blows through.. do have to grind anodize off…but don’t weld t slot mat. It’s not good that’s all I know…and your not saying to do it , I’m just saying
Chris
I would love the plans and details , as I have all of these parts laying in a pile of scrap..would also like to see a stand up tool cabinet…
Rob
These look great and I am going to be designing a set of my own very shortly. Can you tell me what brand the upper cabinets are? I’m going back and forth between building my own and buying premade.
Stuart
I can’t answer for Ben, but those look to be Gladiator cabinets. Currently $169 via Amazon, which seems a little much for ready to assemble these days.
Ben V
Yup, they are Gladiator cabinets. I think I paid around $99, at a Black Friday sale or something….
Rob
great thanks so much!
Ed
I really like your thought process in designing and building these drawers. Imitation is the most sincere form of flattery, so I’m doing the same thing for my garage shop. I have two questions
Have you ever considered building a mitre saw station using extruded aluminum? One that flips over when done cutting so you have more surface area to work on. I have done several using wood and really not happy with the results.
Is 8020 and Faztek interchangeable in respect of t-slot dimensions?
Thank you for the wonderful work you post.
Chris Ulrey
Yes, the hardware works with both 8020 and faztek…though if using 2 companies..The anodized finish may not look the same..