I have an older Empire combination square, and recently bought one of the new updated models. Do you need a new combination square? If so, these are definitely worth your attention.
I was actually about to order a 6-inch model as well, and figured that the reasoning behind my decision will be worth a quick post.
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Both Empire combination squares, available in 6-inch and 12-inch sizes, have similar heads, but they are scaled differently depending on the ruler length.
Combination squares are useful for many kinds of layout, marking, and measurement tasks, and if there’s reader interest, this could be the focus of a future post.
The head is made form cast zinc with precision milled surfaces.
I will often use combination squares – with and sometimes without the ruler blade – for adjusting machine surfaces. It can be useful for adjusting saw blades and fences when a larger square isn’t available or when working with smaller surfaces in more compact spaces.
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- 6-inch square (e255)
- 3″ base x 1″ vertical x 2″ 45° x 1″ thick
- 12-inch square (e250)
- 4-1/2″ base x 1-1/2″ vertical x 3-1/4″ 45° x 3/4″ thick
The heads have Empire’s TrueBlue bubble level vials with e-Band markings for high visibility.
Empire combination squares are made in the USA with global materials.
To be frank, Empire has really stepped up their game since being acquired by Milwaukee Tool. I don’t know if this is because Milwaukee Tool leadership stepped in to take the reins, or if this is one of the resulting from the influx in cash used to upgrade and expand Empire’s manufacturing capabilities.
I’ll be keeping my older Empire and Empire-made Craftsman combination squares for posterity, partly out of nostalgia, but also for my kids to use if they’re ever interested. But in my main woodworking tool box, it’s going to be all-Empire, with the 12-inch I picked up at Home Depot a few weeks ago and the new 6-inch I’m about to buy as soon as I hit “publish” on this post.
I have lots of different types of squares, many of them more premium than these, but combination squares are a crucial part of my kit.
Empire took a tool that was already pretty decent, and they made it even better.
Price: $10 for 6-inch, $11 for 12-inch (free shipping)
At the time of this posting, Home Depot is offering free no-minimum shipping on both sizes.
Buy Now: 6-inch Square via Home Depot
Buy Now: 12-inch Square via Home Depot
Compare: 6-inch via Amazon
Skye A Cohen
Nice, thanks for the heads up. I have had several through the years of the smaller 6″ ones as it’s a normal tool belt item and they get lost and damaged every now and then.
One thing I noticed on at least a couple of the empire 6″ squares was that it was difficult to tighten the ruler in place, like I really had to reef I that little knurled nut. I think I remember trying a swanson one after that but didn’t much like the ruler markings having a metric side.
Anyway maybe it’s time for a new one I’ll try one out.
Stuart
That’s always a challenge with combination squares. With this one, loosen the knob and then push it up (there’s a spring), and re-inserting the blade is quick and easy.
Kg
This has been my experience with all my experience squares bought 2 years ago. I’ve since replaced all but the 4″ that does reliably lock down with a few from lee valley and a few PEC blemished ones from tattoos. Both lock down reliably and an happy with them
Kg
… experience with all my *Empire* squares…
davethebrave
PEC combination squares and double squares are a dream compared to Empire and/or Swanson versions. I’ve purchased several of the PEC blemished ones from Ebay or Amazon and have been surprised by the obvious difference in quality. Now I use my empire squares for rough work and to throw in a tool bag, and my PECs for fine work in my home workshop. If you use a combination square often, do yourself a favor and pick up a PEC- you won’t go back to the big-box versions
lava
i have read accounts of the casting that locks against the ruler being a soft alloy that wears away against the stainless steel rule. With frequent use these fail. IG link here, including some attention from Empire:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CIiz8gtD2iX/
Mike Ramsey
@Lava I’ve had similar issues with my 6″ one. The thing is dead nuts square but the lock sucks and I have to give it a little extra with a pair of needlenose to make sure it stays locked.
Alfredo M. Claussen
I wanted a 6″ Square to use it on my pillar drill and a new table saw I made from a Makita 8 1/4″ circular saw underneath a table… So I bought one at Home Depot. After struggling with a few jobs, I found it was NOT square! So I took my old, 12″ Starrett with me and went again to the same HD store, to find another that was true. Got a “good” one, and also tried to find a speed square, also from Empire… only to find that THE ENTIRE stock (25 units) was slightly bent or curved on one side, the side with the rib. A friend of mine, who has experience with metal molding, tells me that the Chinese factory most surely pulls the cast aluminum squares too fast from the mold, so that they get warped.
On the damn 6″ Empire combination square, after a few uses where I had to slide the steel ruler to adjust it, the hard stainless steel ruler started to “eat” the too soft zinc alloy casting on the guides, which are small bumps, so that squareness went away fast!
I respectfully recommend the writer to become more critical of the true quality of these garbage level squares, as he is praising too much Empire, or lying or just getting paid for an advertisement, not writing an honest review at all.
EJ
I replaced the blade with a blemished one from taylor tools. It’s a lot better.
https://taytools.com/collections/tools-blemished-cosmetic-seconds-replacement-square-blades
Steve G
Yeah. At some point something changed and the tightening nob fails. Pretty soon after I bought it. Don’t buy them anymore. Would like to.
John
I’ve had two of the 6” and two of the 12” for quite a few years. They are very handy for wood and metal work.
A W
Was just looking at one last time I was inside a home depot..
Thanks for the recommendation.
Rafe
Ive had a lot of these in different sizes over the years. I learned to not count on them too much if I want something to the T. I currently have a 12″ in my shop that is okay, but not pefectly square. I’ve known them to also be slightly off on the ends of the ruler. Otherwise, good to have on you for most jobsite and rough shop layout work.
fred
If your combination square is out of true – it really isn’t worth too much. One way to tell is to see if it can produce a repeatable 90 degree line. You start with a board that has been jointed and known to have a straight edge. The use your square to mark a 90 degree line. The reverse the square and mark the same line. There should be no deviation along the length of the marked line. The second line should perfectly overlap the first. While you might not expect the same accuracy as with a quality machinists/engineers square that has no moving parts – if the lines deviate enough to see a noticeable gap over a 6 or 8 inch board – that would say something about the lack of quality.
EJ
I will not buy these. I had two and both of them are out of true.
Usually it’s quite easy to grind down the head a little bit to correct it, but in my case it’s not possible. Not only the heads are out of true, the blades are not straight, and the sides are not parallel.
Koko The Talking Ape
fred has good advice about testing your combination square.
You can also adjust them if they’re out of square. The blade typically rides on two nubs or bumps inside the slot in the head. A narrow file can reach into the slot and reduce the height of one nub or the other. I’ve never done it myself, but I’m sure it’s something you want to do slowly, by sneaking up on square, or else you can end up with an unfixable tool.
Alfredo M Claussen
Of course you can file the nubs to get it “squarer”, but then the filed down nubs will get worn sooner! The matter is that these squares are BADLY designed. A too soft zinc head riding the much harder steel ruler is BAD DESIGN, PERIOD! Don’t waste your money with these.
David Zeller
If you’ve got Samsung Pay, they are giving 5% back right now when you order online through the Samsung Pay app. That would apply to things beyond this, obviously.
When you go to the app, they open a browser window to the HD site. You have to order through that window on your tablet or phone.
fred
Center heads and Protractor heads are also available for some combination squares as are different style blades. Some manufacturers also make different sized heads.
Some old blades also had a slight notch centered on the ends of the blade – that allows you to more easily position a pencil or scribe to run parallel lines
Here’s a link to a Starrett page that shows some of their combinations:
https://www.starrett.com/searchresults?searchQuery=combination
Vards Uzvards
The 6-inch square on Amazon.com – with metric graduations. How cool it that!
John
I’d be interested to see a future post on combination square uses. I have an older empire-made Craftsman one and it never gets any use (for my needs). I almost always reach for a 7” rafter square or my large metal framing square I inherited from my dad. Then again, I don’t use either of this all too much either.
Andrew
Hey guys. I got a bunch of dried up wood glue on a combiination square building a couple boxes. Whats a good way to clean it off? Thanks
John
Heat gun and plastic scraper
fred
I assume its the yellow or white wood glue that has dried.
If so – you might try a heat gun to soften it up – then a plastic scraper to pop/peel it off. Wood glue usually does not adhere well to clean metal surfaces – so I find that even a fingernail can sometimes pop off a drop or two of dried glue.
James
Wood glue starts to fail at 120F, heat gun is the way to go.
MoogleMan3
For a bit more money you can get a blem from PEC tools. That’s where anyone serious about woodworking should start IMHO.
DAVID
New to this brand. These appear high quality, and American made is a bonus. Good recommendation.
Dave
Got two on the way right now. Taylor Toolworks has them on sale and are an authorized distributor.
Oflannabhra
Why not get a PEC blemished version? I’ve got a Craftsman (I think made by Empire) and I’ll probably upgrade to the PEC versions because they are completely stainless, and avoid the issues resulting from wear on an aluminum rule.
Btle310
I agree with Oflannabhra buy a PEC blemished. They are very well built and dead accurate. The prices and selection varies but they are still a great price for the quality, https://taytools.com/collections/tools-blemished-cosmetic-seconds-combination-squares
Btle310
And don’t forget the double squares they are very useful.
MoogleMan3
Yep. I have both the 4″ and 6″ double squares from lee valley that PEC made for them. Dead square and smooth action. I’ve been using them for years. Probably my most used squares.
Koko The Talking Ape
Folks, here’s how I would redesign the usual combination square. Tell me why they don’t make sense.
I would make the blade thick enough to use as a saw guide. Most squares have blades so thin that saw shoes will ride over them.
I would also add a fold-out tab or something so that the square will rest reaching across a board without the head swiveling down and pulling the square off. I recall one square had this feature, and I think some Woodpecker squares have had a lip on the head extending across its entire width. Both would let you snug the head up against a plank, and then leave it there, without having to hold it down with a free hand.
I know this sounds like I’m just reinventing a rafter square, but rafter squares don’t have the sliding blade which is very handy for marking rip cuts, etc.
Stuart
A square with moving or sliding components will rarely be accurate as a one-piece or fixed-in-place design.
One caution about Woodpeckers squares is that most are made from aluminum. For use against a saw plate, their stainless blade squares might be better.
Woodpeckers has new combination squares and at sale pricing right now, but they are extremely pricey.
Koko The Talking Ape
A combination square has moving components, and they seem to do okay. I would just add a tab to slide out to support the end of the body when the blade is resting across a workpiece. That bit wouldn’t need to be square, or even very flat.
Yep, Woodpecker stuff is out of my financial ballpark, but sometimes they have features that I imagine other manufacturers could copy for cheaper, like that lip on the body I mentioned.
Mike S
So – and adjustable version of this?
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/ledge-it-square-12-kapro
fred
For crosscutting dimensional lumber for framing with a circular saw – most folks just eyeball the cut or perhaps use a speed square as a saw guide. Its when you get into furniture building or things like casework and picture framing that better accuracy is really appreciated. In those latter cases – you probably are not cutting freehand with a circular saw – but relying on the accuracy of your table saw, miter saw track saw etc. And – sometimes you cut close enough and then use a plane and shooting board to sneak up on a perfect fit
Koko The Talking Ape
Yes, that’s what I understand: most people use a speed square or eyeball it. But I don’t know why it would hurt to make a combination square that could also function as a saw guide.
And yes, a table saw or miter saw would be more accurate. I’m trying to use a circular saw with a guide because I’m poor and don’t have space. Previously I’ve used a good japanese pull saw and some touchup work with a hand plane.
fred
I am always humbled to remember that our forbears – guys like Duncan Phyfe – built better furniture than I will ever make – without the aid of a table saw or other modern machine tools
Koko The Talking Ape
Aha, here are the Woodpecker squares I was talking about, with the protruding lip on the body. Why can’t ordinary combination squares have something like that?
Koko The Talking Ape
And of course, I forgot the link.
https://14cyiuhvcgv.com/woodpecker-stainless-steel-and-aluminum-squares-one-time-tool-042017/%3C/a%3E%3C/p%3E
Blaine Tennis
Ordinary combination squares do have that lip, thats kind of the point of them.
Koko The Talking Ape
Actually they don’t. I have three.
Rich
I use my Woodpecker square when I want to accurate 90 degree lines and to check for squareness. Combo squares aren’t really the tool if you need that kind of accuracy.
But I also have two of both sizes of the Empire combination squares that I use to measure the distance I want to establish for positioning say a mortise or or a dado that I can then transfer to other pieces to mark the same position. Having several lets me keep each set for different distances. In use again during glue ups to make sure of final position of say lower stretchers around four sides of a table.
I also have the Woodpecker Capellini that I also like for repeating marking and checking depth of cuts. It is probably more accurate and has two locking knobs, but it has a much narrower face for marking.
Well worth having a few of these Empire combo squares around.
Plain grainy
Sure not much of a price gap, between the 6 & 12 inch.
Plain grainy
Must be all the cost is in the heads. Same heads perhaps.
John
The size of the heads are completely different between the 6” and 12”.
Plain grainy
Yes, i see that Stuart had that in his description. That’s what I get for speed reading the text.
JoeM
Stuart? May I ask why you felt the need to make this article like a confessional? It reads like you’re putting your foot down, and anyone who argues that you did the wrong thing is going to face a stern, grumpy glare in return.
It’s Empire Level, and it’s a Combination Square as well, is it not? If you need someone to say “You did Good, Stuart! I’m proud of your Decision Making Skills! Go get yourself a nice ice-cream sandwich out of the freezer as a reward for being a good boy!” then I’m happy to do that… But I still don’t feel it’s necessary for you to actually JUSTIFY these things.
At this point in the site’s existence… I think it’s safe to say we can trust your decisions on buying quality tools when it comes to your own use, and your own needs.
And for the record… I’m just kinda picking on you in a friendly way. Having a little fun with you. I always love your tool writeups, but when I see a little humour that can be thrown in on things… you know I gotta have some fun with you. Let’s face it… You phrased this like a crazy manifesto to justify your decisions… when we’re not the ones who you need to justify them to. I’m even relatively certain your Wife and Kids understand your Tool decisions as well by now. I think you’re okay here. Honest.
Stuart
You’re over-analyzing.
This is me trying for a mildly encouraging tone.
Once the holiday season is over, Home Depot will probably go back to a “free shipping on $45+ policy.”
Would you rather I said “GO BUY ONE NOW BEFORE YOU LOSE FREE SHIPPING!!!!!!!!?”
This isn’t a deal post, it’s not a new tool post, and it’s not a full review. It’s somewhat stuck in the middle.
JoeM
I know Stuart… I was just having some fun with you. The emojis don’t show up here… at least not when I’m typing on a keyboard. There’d be a few laughing emojis on the end if I knew the code for them.
In all honesty, you brought me a good laugh with all this, and I was just trying to do the same. We always rib eachother a little bit over EDC stuff, and do funny stuff like this. I was going for a new joke, it didn’t work out, oh well. You still made ME laugh.
Charlie Stopczynski
These are fine basic squares in my humble opinion. As an amateur woodworker I did find my old 12″ combo square lacking. What a pleasant surprise at the HD store one day. 16″ combo square. by Empire. I purchased both it and a 6″ which is used more than I ever expected. Love the quality. Took me a use or two to realize why they put a compression spring between thumb nut and square body, serves as a quick release. Couldn’t be happier!
Dave
All I’ll ever use a combination square for is a rough depth gauge.
Every one I’ve ever had ends up out of square and some are not too accurate when you buy them.
I’ve never had a speed square I couldn’t trust (and I’ve never had a combination square I felt I COULD trust).
They aren’t worth a plug nickel to me. For 99.9% of uses, their time has come and is LONG past.
Nathan
I see a lot of comments buy a PEC blemish . . .
I almost did a few times last year and I probably will get one, one day.
BUT – for the dollars for general woodwork it’s hard to beat the Empire. I too have the newer 12 inch. Dollars was one reason I bought it – 1/2 the price of the PEC blemish I was looking at, and the other reason. SS blade.
The PEC while very nice is made for machine work and is a normal steel blade that can rust with time or without care. Not that I plan to abuse my Empire square – but I know it will not always only live in the garage. It will get used to mark exterior trim or use to set square decking and things like that.
IE it will get used out of the shop as well as inside and the accuracy is spot on for my needs -with wood.
Hard to beat for under 20. Otherwise yes I like the PEC and if I get a PEC I’m getting one with 2 rules, and getting the 3 head device.
Matt J.
There’s also the 16″ model. Mine is the older style, but I like it a lot and it’s great to have that extra length sometimes. I also have the 6″ and a Starrett 12″. All 3 needed a bit of adjustment out of the box (so to speak) but surprisingly the Starrett was the worst. Not worth the extra money IMO. I’d go all Empire if I had to do it over again.
PETE
I have the 6″ one and it won’t hold tight anymore. Gotta throw it away.
When is the milwaukee digital level going to go onsale?!?!
Bill K
@Stuart
What is the significance &/or purpose of the the sharp pointed rod that inserts into the bottom of the handle?
Just bought one and reasonably impressed.
Stuart
Scribe/scratch awl for when you forget your pencil.
fred
Or for marking metal where pencils are sometimes lacking.
In both woodworking and metalwork there is a perennial debate about what the best marking tool to use and these all can have a place:
Chalk markers
Crayons – Lumber Crayons
Ink Markers
Knives – single and double bevel – specifically designed marking
knives and others used as such
Pencils – mechanical or otherwise – black graphite or colored
Pens – ballpoint and India-Ink drafting pens
Pin markers – as in marking and mortising gauges
Scratch Awls
Scribes – steel or carbide tipped
Wheel markers – as in marking gauges
fred
I should have added
Soapstone markers – favored by our welders
Mike Tayse
I like measuring stuff and I like stuff that measures. Thanks for the tip. You could write a bunch of reviews on stuff that makes it easier to measure.
Hector
Untill you drop it and the retainer bolt breaks. Empire doesn’t provide/sell a replacement part. Then you end up buying new square. You can buy a different brand bolt and modify the square to fit the new bolt. But shouldn’t be this way. Empire should sell replacement parts. Like some brands do, like starret ect.