After you purchase your first 3D printer, you’ll probably need some extra tools that nobody told you about, to do things like remove the print from the build surface, remove plastic flash and supports, or modify the part itself.
If you’re lucky, the manufacturer will supply a few of the tools you need, but chances are you’ll have to acquire them yourself. You might already have many of the tools necessary, but there are a few specialty tools I’ve found that work better than the common household tools you might already own.
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In no particular order, here are the some tools I’ve found necessary so far, and some personal recommendations where applicable.
Print Removal Tool
For the longest time I’ve been using a regular 1″ putty knife to remove prints from the build surface. That changed when I purchased a PEI (Polyetherimide) sheet for my print bed. What PEI does is eliminate the need for tapes, glues, slurries, or what ever concoction you’ve figured out to get the filament to stick to the build surface.
The downside is that sometimes the prints stick too well to the PEI. I started using a 1/2″ wood chisel to pry the prints off the surface. The problem with a chisel is that you are prying with a really sharp object, and I’ve sliced my finger open a few times trying to remove a print.
When I received the Dremel Digilab printer test sample, it came with a specialized 2″ print removal tool that looks like a putty knife. However, this tool differs from a putty knife in two important ways: the blade is thinner, and it is ground down to a sharper edge.
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The almost knife-like edge allows you to get underneath a print to separate it from the bed. I prefer using this tool over the chisel now because it works just as well and is a whole lot safer.
I will eventually have to return the Dremel printer (as the test sample is a loaner), and with it the print removal tool, so I went looking for a replacement that I can keep for myself. I think I found Dremel’s source for the tool: FYSETC. They look to be a Chinese company that either makes or resells an identical print removal tool. It’s available on Amazom for $9.
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Digital Calipers
Digital calipers are indispensable for creating models, but there are times when you’ve printed a part and it doesn’t fit properly. If you know the exact dimensions, sometimes you can just scale the part in the 3D printing software without redesigning the part.
More importantly, if your want your prints to be dimensionally accurate, you need to print a calibration cube to test your printer. I use this one from Thingiverse.
If you discover that your printer isn’t accurate in one dimension, most printers have a way to adjust the calibration of each axis.
I’m not sure what brand these calipers are, but they are a $20 no-name imported pair I purchased on Amazon before they became garbage. It can be hard to find a cheap pair of calipers that doesn’t feel slide like a grader on a washboard road.
Related: Any Recommendations for Inexpensive Calipers?
Stuart’s Note: My vote would be for Mitutoyo, but they’re not exactly inexpensive.
Right Angle Pick
Hot filament can only bridge so far without being supported. Sometimes you need to add support structures to your object for it print right. If you have a multi head printer, you can use a water soluble filament and then just wash away the supports, but for the rest of us, we’re stuck having to dig out the support material.
The best tool I’ve found for this task is a right angle pick. I had a Husky 4 pc pick set, but of those four, I bent one pick, broke another, and melted a third. They would not be my first recommendation. Rather, I like the Milwaukee hook and pick set, as I haven’t managed to damage one yet.
These aren’t carried at Home Depot Retail locations, but you can order the set online. Just make sure you ship them to a store near you to avoid shipping costs. Or, they ship free as part of a $45+ order. They’re also available at other Milwaukee tool dealers.
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See Also: Ullman Hooks and Picks
Pliers Wrench
There will be times you will need to press magnets, nuts, or other metal pieces into a finished plastic part. I’ve found that nothing works better than a Knipex Pliers Wrench. The parallel jaws keep the part and the insert piece aligned properly as you squeeze the handles.
I own a Knipex 7-1/4″ Pliers Wrench, with the plastic grips, part number 8603180. The best price on this version I’m finding right now is over at Amazon where you can pick them up for about $46-$50.
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X-Acto Knife
When printing a part, you usually print a thicker layer on the bottom so that it adheres better to the build surface. This leads to the bottom of the part sometimes being flared out a bit. For the longest time I’ve been using an X-Acto knife to trim off this extra plastic “flash.”
I purchased an X-Acto X5282 basic knife set many years ago, but honestly I only ever use the small knife and standard #11 blades.
I wouldn’t recommend going cheaper on either the blades or the knife. I’ve purchased a few substandard sets and have been completely disappointed, the knife doesn’t hold the blade well, and the blades are thinner and bendy.
Rather than buy a whole kit, I’d recommend starting out with this X-Acto #1 knife with 5 #11 blades for $8.
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Stuart’s Note: Excel’s hobby knives are another good option. As of the time of this posting, their basic knife is $3.41 as an add-on item.
Deburring Tool
After some pokes and nicks with an X-Acto knife, I pulled out my deburring tool to try. I find it does a decent job removing the plastic flash on long straight edges or consistently curved edges. It’s much tougher to use on corners or nooks, so I still end up using an X-Acto knife.
The one I’ve been using is a General Tools 482 swivel head deburring tool with metal handle. It comes with two blades: a black one for use with steel, copper, aluminum, and plastic and a second one for cast iron and brass. I guess I lucked out and had the correct blade inserted in the tool, because I have no idea where the second one is.
You can pick one up at Amazon for about $13.
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Stuart’s Note: Also consider Noga. Their 3-blade starter set is also $13 at Amazon.
Diagonal Cutting Pliers
I’ve been using diagonal cutting pliers for cutting filament. I recently picked up a pair of FastCap micro flush cutting pliers on the recommendations of Ben @dusty.tools on Instagram. I’d been meaning to pick up a set to try out, and temporarily losing my go-to pair of side cutters finally gave me the reason I needed.
Besides cutting filament, these new micro flush-cutting pliers allow me to trim plastic flash off prints, further saving myself from X-Acto knife injuries.
The best place I could find to purchase these was at Home Depot. They don’t carry them in stock so I opted for ship-to-store. They cost me $11 plus tax.
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Tweezers
Finally, a pair of tweezers comes in handy for dealing with hot filament. There’s always excess filament that squeezes out of the hot end as the nozzle is heating up. I like to remove as much of this as possible before the printing starts, because it can get get dragged around by the print head or even get stuck in the print.
Sometimes the plastic starts sticking to the nozzle. This plastic will eventually turn black and start to smell. It can also fall off the nozzle and leave a glob of blackened plastic in the middle of your print.
I use tweezers to grab and remove the hot filament before it can cause any issues during a print.
I’ve been using some cheap Husky tweezers I purchased on clearance after Christmas one year. For this job just about any cheap pair of straight fine point tweezers will do.
They don’t sell the Husky set I purchased anymore, but I believe the ones I use are in this Husky picks and tweezers tool set. As a bonus you get a right angle pick, but just remember that it’s easy to bend the Husky picks.
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Did I miss any tools? Or do you have favorite 3D printing tools that work better? Let us know in the comments.
Cr8on
The Knipex 7 1/4″ pliers wrench are on sale at Menards right now for $35!
Ben
Nice list! I’m going to pick up that Husky set!
Ben
I also found an infra red temperature gun is useful, and small spray bottles for Acetone and Alcohol.
John
Nice and timely post. I added an Ender 3 Pro printer recently. The deburring tool would be quite useful.
I just use a blue shop towel to wipe the hot end of excess filament. Made the mistake of following the instructions using a pair of snips and snipped the end of the hot end tip.
The Ender 3 comes with a great removal tool, nice and sharp.
Other items you could add: feeler gauges can be as good and maybe better than a sheet of paper for bed leveling. Depending on the thickness of the layers, you may need to change the first layer height, not always a standard sheet thickness. A good set of hex wrenches, ball wrenches for frame adjustments if needed. Alcohol wipes for cleaning the bed after prints.
Benjamen
I never though about using feeler gauges, that’s a good idea.
I didn’t mention tools like hex wrenches, because building a printer or frame adjustments are a little out of the scope I set for the post.
I really like this multi hex driver from Milwaukee: https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Hand-Tools/Fastening/Screwdrivers-and-Nutdrivers/48-22-2106
I chuck the long insert bits into my Bosch PS20 when I need to go faster.
Frank D
I have been looking forward to your 3D series and need to get back to my elementary 3d printing and designing!!!
I got a raspberry pi and octoprint, but then got sidetracked in the middle of things with hurricanes, travel, projects, … so I still have to tweak one of things we were communicating on and print some extra parts bins … but printer has a dedicated shelf now 🙂
Benjamen
I have the Pi and the software, I just need to set it up. I love the Web interface for the Dremel. I really don’t want to go back when I have to return it.
PAntonvich
for 3d printing here is my 2 cents
a thinner and more flexible putty knife
its helpful to let parts completely cool down and then reheat the bed
I’ve had good luck with this PEI sheet – $14.95
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XK8BWY
These Flush-cut micro cutters work great for part clean up – $4.43
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K
for joining parts together or fixing fixing a print – 3d pens
this is the one I have it’s no longer available – I paid $21.99 for it.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M8LD0TE
I mostly use my cheap Harbor Freight digital calipers as I have them on my bench for easy access – I have Mitutoyo calipers mostly use the HF – as they are accurate enough for my parts.
soldering iron to insert nuts into captive slots and hot air to bent parts into place or mod a fit
Hot Air Rework Soldering Iron Station 852D+ (I paid $84 on ebay for it back in 2013 – looks like they are $55/60 now)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/852D-2in1-Soldering-Rework-Station-Iron-Hot-Air-Gun-SMD-Welder-Tool-5Tips-ESD/233045681545
I have three piece general tools swivel head deburring set – I found the largest deburring tools works best with plastic – you have to be careful or you can gouge your edges as it wants to take too big of a bite out of the material.
I need to pickup a pick set and try them out for cleaning up parts.
Ocotprint via rpi and pi camera – start your print while upstairs, check on your print while it prints and have it email / push notify you with a picture when print is done.
William Adams
There was an interesting discussion of a 12 piece 3D printing toolkit assembled from Harbor Freight for <$50 — the things which it mentioned which aren't enumerated above:
– hex key set and other tools/supplies for fixing/maintaining machine — usually folks already have these, but may be worth setting a set aside just for the machine — there were a number of other tools for machine repairs
– soldering iron — this can be useful for touching up or joining parts
on that latter point, there are specialty plastic welding kits, which if one assembles parts often may be worthwhile — one interesting workaround is to chuck up a length of filament in a rotary tool and use that directly.
TonyT
Some good tips to investigate.
I’ve been using and abusing the Hakka CHP cutters for years, and can get them for $5 at Fry’s.
My industrial Chinese printer come with MTC-20 Japanese cutters for the filament, a scraper, and blue Kapton tape. It uses a glass print bed, so I’m thinking about upgrading that; my Prusa’s PEI has worked well, although on occasion I’ve used a mallet to knock prints off.
I’d also recommend looking at 3D printer upgrades. For example, the latest Prusa i3 Mk3 features a removable print bed so you can remove it and flex it, at least theoretically removing the need for any removal tools.
Prusa sells an upgrade for the Mk2, and a number of companies (such as Zimple Ziflex, BuildTak FlexPlate, Wham Bam), make similar removable print bed upgrades. I haven’t installed my Prusa upgrade yet.
Poli_nerd
I swear by the BuildTak Spatula ….. https://www.buildtak.com/product/buildtak-spatula/
The Handle shape makes it nice and easy to slide in to remove prints. Every 3dprinting facility I’ve seen at universities and in the private sector seems to have them…I did modify the edge a little to make it a tad sharper to handle some tougher materials
Benjamen
I’ve seen them and I just don’t like the vertical handle, but I have to admit that I haven’t tried it.
Maybe I should pick one up…
Shatter
Great list! A few other handy things:
A 5/8″ countersink bit from HD/Menards can take the elephant’s foot (flared bottom layer) off of a hole that faces the buildplate better than a deburr whip will – and it’ll end up with a more pleasing chamfer that doesn’t have skips and dug in spots. Obviously only works on holes.
Ebay (and amazon now too apparently) is a great source for a dirt cheap metric reamer set. These reamers are pretty trash for metalworking but they work REALLY GREAT on plastic. They’ll true up out of round or undersize holes in printed parts in a jiffy – great for making functional stuff. Beware that if the print is too undersize the reamer will cut through the walls and into infill.
David
I find working in metric is the way to go for 3D printing. I found I had very few nice metric rulers when I started. You can get inexpensive steel rules at HF, Amazon, hobby shops, dollar stores etc. Often they are just a dollar or two for 6 inches, or two or three dollars for 18 inches. Home Depot-type places will often charge more.
I find ones that flex a bit to be most useful; too stiff, or backed with cork, less so.
I have enough that they sit at my 3D printer, my “craft workbench,” my workbench, and my family room chair. They’re cheap and handy!
David
Benjamen
I agree that I’d rather use metric also, but imperial materials and fasteners are both ubiquitous and more available (cheaper too) then metric. So it’s nice to be able to convert back and forth quickly with a pair of calipers.
David
Here’s a non-necessity: how about a wallet caliper from (where else) Japan?
Lots of pictures (Amazon link below): https://www.google.com/search?q=tyk10&tbm=isch
Card calipers (TYK-10) (japan import) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002WBZ7KS/
They’re $19 now, but I thought I paid less than that. They’re actually pretty neat, if a little geeky.
I carry these, too: wallet ruler and magnifier in little slip case
6 Pk Credit Card Fresnel Lens Pocket Magnifier Ruler Emergency Solar Fire Starter -Compact Plastic Magnifying Glass for EDC Home Office Classroom Hobbies & Outdoor Survival Bushcraft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FVINSRM/
I gave the other five to family for stocking stuffers (we do adult stockings instead of gifts) and they loved them.
David