I was tasked with watering my carrot seedlings yesterday, and figured I would give my new Gardena soft spray garden hose nozzle a try. Gardena hose-end products have a quick-connect fitting built right in, and so I attached the included quick-connect socket to my hose.
Actually, that’s not quite the order things happened. I first tried to connect my Hozelock 2-in-1 water diverter to my spigot, especially since it also offers a watering can outlet, and I found that the threads were incompatible. Then I spent some time getting sprayed in the face as I attempted to connect various quick connect fittings directly to the spigot. After all that, I then gave up and went to water the carrots with my new fine sprayer.
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So, after getting sprayed in the face with water and frustrated at not being able to make a square peg fit a round hole, that’s when I decided to just proceed with the watering.
Wouldn’t you know, I ended up getting spritzed in the face a couple more times.
The thing about Gardena quick connect fittings is that they have a “water stop” function. Basically, there is an automatic valve that shuts off water flow when nothing is connected to the hose.
In theory, this means that you can disconnect an attachment and then quickly connect a new one.
However, things didn’t work out quite that way for me.
I could remove an attachment, but I could not connect anything while the water spigot was on and the valve was under pressure.
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I did succeed once, quick disconnecting and reconnecting the same attachment, but that was a fluke.
I kept trying, and eventually stopped when I realized I’d eventually break something if I persisted.
I have used quick-disconnect fittings with water cooling loops before, and they never failed to behave as expected. If I wanted the connection disrupted, it just worked. When I wanted things reattached, it just worked. I had similar expectations for these Gardena quick connect sockets, but things worked out differently. In hindsight, I realize that my experience my water cooling lines involved pumps that were de-energized when I was working on them, and a water reservoir with small air gap provided relief for any built-up pressure.
I wasn’t just watering the carrots, I also wanted to test out another new spray I recently bought, a Hozelock heavy duty jet model.
To connect a spray nozzle, I had to shut off water. Then I had to remove the quick-connect fitting from the end of the hose. This is when I kept getting sprayed in the face – yes again. That’s the only way I was able to relieve the pressure.
With the pressure relieved, I then attached the sprayer nozzle. Then I walked back to turn on the water.
I did this process a couple of times, first in attempt to get the quick connect fittings to work, and then to use the two separate nozzles.
I also tried to kink the hose to stop the flow temporarily, but Flexzilla’s “won’t kink under pressure” advertising claims are very accurate. (I love their hoses, bought mine via Amazon.)
So here is what I learned: Gardena – and presumably other brands’ – water-stop feature does work! But, connecting to them can be difficult – or in my case impossible – to do while the hose is under pressure.
I believe that a hose-end flow control valve can help with this, but haven’t tested this out yet.
There’s this Melnor valve, priced at $6 via Amazon.
A valve like this is required for quick-connecting fittings that don’t have a water-stop valve built-in. It seems to me that this should also relieve the pressure facing quick-connect socket with water-stop valves like my Gardena, allowing for attachments to be quickly swapped without having to shut off the water source and bleed the pressure.
I guess my water pressure is high?
The spigot was also only partially turned on, in attempt to limit the pressure and volume of water leaking from the garden hose reel I haven’t repaired or replaced yet. Then again, it’s a frost-free hose bib with quarter turn valve, and so I’m sure that this was close to full pressure. Plus, this side of the house is close to the main water line.
I know there are pressure regulators that can help lower the spigot pressure, but that will also likely lower sprayer performance.
There are other hose-end valve options too, such as this Dramm One Touch valve ($22 via Amazon). This one is larger and with a more ergonomic handle, and I’m going to assume its die-cast zinc body is heavier duty than the Melnor. This valve handle is more intended to be used with hose wands and direct sprayer attachments that lack their own built-in control valves.
My initial reaction was of strong frustration, but I’m thinking – and hoping – than adding in a hose-end valve will allow me to use these quick-connect fittings to their full potential, for hot-swapping different attachments and sprayers.
Maybe my experience will save you from an unexpected shower or frustrations. My hope is that a hose-end valve will be the quick-fix that Gardena and quick-connect fittings with built-in water-stop valves need to work properly. And if not? I’ll have to come up with a messy Frankenstein system of compounded adapters that enables me to switch accessories without losing a drop of water and without having to walk back to the spigot valve.
I could also be wrong about all of this, or maybe my quick connect socket is somehow flawed or defective? All I know right now is that I can connect an attachment when the water source is off and the hose has been bled of pressure, and that I cannot connect an attachment when the spigot valve is open and the fitting’s automatic “water stop” valve is activated.
Edit/Update: I tried everything again, and it’s possible to connect the Gardena fittings under pressure, but only some of the time, and it’s difficult. I also have a Hozelock coupler, and it’s less difficult to engage, but still not effort-free.
Everything is made more difficult by not having flat surfaces to press together. Grabbing the hose end, which is a good size on my swivel-handle Flexzilla, depends on friction to apply force in the direction needed, and both of my sprayers have smooth and angled tops. As a commentor suggested, it would be easier if one of these items were immobile rather than both being handheld.
These attempts are also different because I used my new Hozelock sprayer with metal quick-connect fitting. The Gardena, shown above, has a plastic stem, and I find myself holding back in fear of breaking it.
I still believe that a handheld shut-off valve would allow for far easier operation, and there are some reasonably priced products that look suitable.
David Zeller
If you want something less intrusive, you could just get something like this. It is what we use. (Note, this is just the first one that showed up in a google search. I don’t vouch for the store or product.)
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Yardsmith-Brass-Restricted-Flow-Water-Shut-Off/50328301
David
JC
I’ll vouch for it. I have one on each hose right before a brass quick connect. Sometimes I want to remove the quick connect and I can shut the water off immediately. At least four years in South Texas weather with no real issues (The lever on one came loose but it gets dragged across a pebbled concrete driveway often. Easy fix.). My brass quick connects have a valve but they are finicky to say the least and this alleviated any issues.
Adam
I was thinking the same item. They are all made in same China factory. Picked mine up from Walmart last fall for $2.88 I want to say.
Gordon
It does the trick, but don’t make my mistake and leave it out all winter. It developed a hairline crack and sprays you once you shut it off and pressure builds. I’m getting more of them though. Its really nice to have at the end of a 75ft hose, or between hoses linked together. It just means less walking back and forth.
Inman
I’ve been doing exactly this for some time. Furthermore I’ve gotten away from any plastic quick connects and all that have the shutoff feature when disconnected. The plastics eventually break at the most inopportune time.
Now on my 1.3 acre property any and all hose lengths can interchange quickly, all quick connects will flow fully when not connected, and all my hoses have a small isolation valve at the end just upstream of the quick connect.
As wiith all products made in China, there is huge variation in fit/leakage/quality (very annoying to this engineer retired from Nuclear Power). Careful of the isolation valves with the small on/off handles – they can be quite the challenge to operate – the torque required to open/close may be too hard for you to comfortaby operate.
aerodawg
If your pressure is high enough to prevent a QD fitting from working correctly, I’d suggest checking the operation of the pressure reduction valve between your house and street. They can go bad and cause all sorts of issues, including toilet valve failures and even burst pipes if but rarely…
Scott Machovec
He could have an un-regulated hose bib connection. My house has on that come off before the PRV so it sees water main pressure at 100 PSI
Stuart
Regulator is right after the main shut-off valve.
I’ll order a pressure gauge just to be sure.
Max adjustment on the current regulator is said to be 75 PSI.
I’ve also been wanting to replace the main shut-off valve – if the regulator needs replacing it could perhaps be done at the same time.
Scotty
I would set regulator to house inside supply at 50 PSI unless you have lots of levels/stories. Most fixtures will perform as designed at 50.
You might consider also adding a pressure relief valve set at 75 PSI to protect in the future if the new/old pressure regulator malfunctions in the future. I added one connected to cold water supply at laundry room washer connections. Easy to do with brass hose y-splitter and similar shutoff valves. PRV valve discharge is tubed into the wall drain for the washer. Can also do at a mop sink too.
Stuart
Thanks!
I’ll have to see what the pressure measures at, and go from there. We also have an irrigation line, I don’t know how that would be affected.
It could also just be that I suck at quick-connect fittings.
I also wonder if thermal fluctuations have anything to do with things. Higher temp of hose and line water could potentially mean greater pressure and quick-connect resistance.
aerodawg
I got one of those too. Great for washing cars and such
GEORGE MICHENER
yes faulty regulators are more common than you’d think. I run into many that will hit the desired pressure,but keep leaking thru until full pressure is in your system. I have seen up to 160psi+ depending on your elevation relative to the reservoir. that will shorten the life of a water heater and cost you a fortune when it leaks past the tp valve also. That said , I have seperate outside unregulated “circuits” so I can use the pressure. With a constant 150+ andthe right nozzle, I can some pretty good pressure washer action,until it’s something bad enough to break out the “steam jenny”. Now you dont want to leave that kinda pressure in the hose on a sunny day for a prolonged period of time Altho my vintage swan hoses do remarkably well, I try not to push my luck for too long.I just have hose to pipe adapters and use small ball valves on the hose ends to stop from running back and forth constantly and 1″npt S.S air hose quick connectors . I know its a bit much, but its been that way for 35+ years and still works fine…except for a swan hose replacement about 5 years back…yes,I told them how I used it and they DID replace it free!
aerodawg
Yep, I had the plumbers leave a spigot on the high side when we built our house. Keeps me from having to break out the pressure washer 90% of the time.
Stuart
I do have a toilet valve now making weird sounds when the shower is on and needing replacement…
Pressure in the house is decent, could be better in some parts of the house.
I’ve been meaning to have the branches reworked in the basement, due to too many T’s and some old style gate valves I’d like to have replaced. Could do a pressure test at that time, and respond accordingly.
The spigot was replaced by a licensed plumber a year ago, once we’ve given business to before and who will be handling future needs, and I’d trust that they would have said something if the pressure was problematic.
aerodawg
The toilet valve making noises could definitely indicate a PRV problem. I’ve had them both just fail completely all and once, and as a poster above said, leak through to increase the low side pressure. The latter would cause our toilets to cycle, the pressure would build until it overcame the float valve, the toilet would run for a second or two to relieve the pressure, and the cycle would start over. Eventually it failed the toilet valve completely….
GEORGE MICHENER
I’ve seen quite a few good plumbers taken aback by a slowly leaking regulator,because everything seems fine…sometimes for hours. . I think expansion tanks also help to mask the problem . At one of my places,it could take 4-6 hours with the gauge screwed on the tubs spigot before I’d realize I had an issue. Slowly I turn-lol
Todd
I’ve been driven crazy trying to find/replicate leaky facets in customers houses till I think to check the PRV lol
fred
I believe that Gardena and some other manufacturers make Female quick connectors in both “water-stop” and flow-through varieties. The water-stop ones that I’ve seen use a poppet valve where the water pressure holds it closed when no male-end is seated. To overcome the pressure (when the water is turned on) – you need to really apply a greater contravening pressure to the male end pushing it in to get it seated. Invariably this is a frustrating process that gets you wet. I find that it can be done when the female end is well anchored (like on a pressure washer) – but can be well nigh impossible if you are holding both ends in your hand.
Matt Roberson
Fred, you are correct. Prevost makes both a valved and unvalved version of their quick disconnect coupler. I can say from first hand experience, it is quite difficult to swap out attachments on the valved coupler, although not impossible.
https://www.prevostusa.com/connection/couplings-and-plugs-for-water-system-1167.html
While they are a bit on the pricey side, the Prevost couplers are worth the money, excellent quality.
fred
Thanks
I knew about Prevost’s nice air line couplers (particularly their push-button safety styles) – but did not know they made ones for water
Hilton
That’s why you first bend the hose over to stop the flow, then insert the male part.
Stuart
I tried; as mentioned Flexzilla’s “no kinking” claims are seriously accurate.
Andy Pickler
I use a combination of this Dramm quick disconnect ( https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002J0PMOS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and this Dramm shut-off valve ( https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHQAQY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) on all my hoses. It’s been a bulletproof setup for several years running
RKA
I use the same quarter turn shut off on the end of all my hoses. Expensive, but built really well and has lasted many years outdoors without issue.
schill
We have at least one of these as well. Paid $16 a few years ago instead of the $23.50 they are going for right now, but I’d buy another if I needed it. No problems so far.
Marc
Having a well as my water source and a max of 40lbs pressure, I’ve never had a problem connecting to a QD w/Water Stop. On the other hand, the standard disconnects, like Gardenia, restrict the water flow too much for me and I want to replace all the QD fittings (I have a lot) like the Gardenia which have a smaller inside diameter with the ones that have the larger inside diameter.
By the way, one brand (I don’t remember which) recommends a max of 60 lbs pressure.
Lance
My city water pressure is at 65 PSI which makes my Gardena “Stop” fittings a little tough to connect, but not impossible. We’re moving to a rural lot with well next year, and one of the things I look forward to with my own water supply is setting it lower. 40 psi sounds like a good starting point, and I’m hopeful that everything from hose fittings to kitchen faucets work better with the lowered pressure.
lava
I have a bunch of Gardena fittings – some cut off the flow when disconnected, but there are cheaper ones that do not, although that does not fix your problem. I never remember not being able to shove the fitting in and get it to connect, but perhaps my crappy water pressure explains that.
Scott Machovec
I gave up on the shutoff type of disconnects as they are hard to connect with high water pressure and add flow/pressure restriction. Consider using a shut off valve followed by a quick connect (I like Orbit 58117 connectors). I have a valve on the end of each hose to make it easy to change nozzles, sprinklers, etc. I had good luck with the Gilmour all brass ball valves. The ones I have from 2011 have brass handles too and have lasted great. The new ones have plastic handles so they may be less durable. There are some other brands with brass handles. A little pricey at $10 to $15 but they last a long time.
Frank D
They all pretty much been that way.
With the old brass ones I had, they had a similar built-in shut-off like your gardena, I could quick hot connect under pressure … but eventually the o-ring rotted inside and there was no way to replace it.
The only way to make that disconnects and reconnects splash proof is to add a 90 shutoff before the disconnect.
Curt Shields
Stuart, the next time you’re watering with water-stop-type quick disconnects and you need to swap attachments with the hose under pressure, try opening the valve on the attachment before attempting to join the male/female couplings.
For example: if I’m taking off a watering wand and attaching a handheld sprayer for cleaning, I’ll squeeze the handheld sprayer’s lever while pushing the quick disconnects together. A little water sprays out of the fitting, but the open path through the tool relieves pressure on the water-stop check valve enough to seat the male coupling. For reference’s sake, I usually see 50 psi at the hose bib (on city water).
I have some crappy Melnor quick disconnects from Home Depot, and this method works well with them. Definitely looking to replace them with better ones soon, so I’ve really enjoyed this running series you’ve done.
Stuart
Thanks!
I inadvertently tried this earlier, squeezing the valve and releasing a jet stream of water as things connected.
My Eley purchases arrived – I’ll be putting them to the test soon.
I also received a replacement hose and internal swivel fitting from Suncast.
Sadly, the hose is… crap. I replaced the washer right off the bat. Leaked at the spigot but not the reel. Reversed the washer. Everything was leak-free for 5 seconds. Reversed the hose. Now it leaked from the reel and not the spigot.
A frustration with this reel is that the leader hose is female-female, and I haven’t found any replacements that are built in anything but a M-F configuration.
I also tried my Flexzilla hose with swivel handle, and it’s leak-free at the spigot or at the reel.
Ultimately I’ll still use the Suncast reel somewhere, perhaps with a chopped-up Flexzilla leader hose. The hesitation there is that the hose and a “repair” female-threaded end fitting will cost at least half as much as the entire reel.
What I think I’ll end up doing is test out the Eley reel and polyurethane hose for watering, and use my new longer Flexzilla hose and DIY Flexzilla leader for other stuff, such as when the kids want to play with a sprayer or I set up a sprinkler.
Meaning, I’m likely going to use the Eley for use if I like it, but it’s sure be nice to have the Suncase earning its footprint too, if only because I love Flexzilla hoses and need it for secondary uses.
The Eley quick disconnects that everyone has been recommending do require a valve, as they don’t have built-in valves.
I figured I’d equip one of their valves on the end of their hose, and then equip 2 accessories with quick connect fittings – their sprayer I bought for testing and also a watering wand. I ordered a 12′ leader hose on top of the 6′ it comes with. I can’t find my Flexzilla leader hose that I bought and found incompatible with my reel. Either that short Flexzilla or the 6′ polyurethane hose will be equipped with an Eley disconnect on one end and Gardena or Hozelock coupler on the other, so that I can use the same system with Gardena/Hozelock accessories that come with built-in (and seemingly non-user-replaceable) quick-connect fittings.
I’ve used polyurethane air hoses before, and they’re stiffer than silicone, vinyl, and other typical hose materials, and so it might be interesting to see how things compare – hence the idea to use a Flexzilla hose section as a “whip hose” if I could find it.
I slipped in the mud 3 times today, going back and forth to the spigot at different times. The area was still very wet from yesterday, and more water was added today from continued leaks. I think the Suncast does a decent job for the money, but it seems that spending more does provide immediate benefits, proven by the 2-year-old Flexzilla hose attaching to the spigot without a drop of water being spilled.
I’ve seen user reviews about Gardena quick connects breaking, and wonder if those users struggled with making connections under pressure. It felt too easy to force things at an angle, and that it perhaps wouldn’t take much to break the plastic.
I’m hesitant about these posts, but figure that 1) a lot of readers are years ahead of me with respect to relevant experience, and might be willing to share their sentiments, and 2) those with similar or less experience might learn the same lessons in an easier way than I have been.
david
I’ve used Gardena connectors for years, as well as the similar Melnor connectors, I use this same method to relieve the pressure by opening the flow on the attachment for just a split second and don’t have any issues. Gardena also makes an end connector with water stop that has a twist to lock feature, I can get this one on and off without opening the flow, but you do need to lock it a it also disconnects with less pressure as well, I highly recommend that connector.
firefly
I have resort to this method before. It is still a pain and likely to squirt water everywhere but it certainly does help. Beside using the aquor system I found that using a shutoff valve close to the quick connect, like many other have commented, is a much easier way to connect/disconnect.
Peter
Like others have said, the house pressure regulator is considered a wear and tear item.
A friend replaced an older water heater because it leaked through the pressure valve at the heater, even after the valve was replaced and after a new water heater did the same thing a plumber he asked said check the pressure valve and sure thing is was bad.
Dude
Personally I like to use my hose quick connections in a reverse way – I put the male ends (no water-stop feature) on the spigot and the end of the hose. That way, I can always get water out of the spigot or the hose-end without using any attachment. Yes, I need to turn off the water to change attachments, but the benefit is that I can fill a bucket or do something quick and easily without a sprayer attached.
Stuart
I tried that too when trying to get my Hozelock splitter accessory to work. It came with male fittings, and either it doesn’t have deep enough threads or are the wrong threaded standard (as is true for the unit itself), and it sprayed water out the top.
I’m going to experiment with a different splitter and quick-disconnect fittings, even where I only anticipate attaching a single hose. That way I can have water on demand and have an outlet for quick-fill, or a standard threaded outlet for any contractors (such as for gutter cleaning or repair) without having to remove and potentially lose a quick-connect coupler every time.
Lynsta K Bemis
I also need the faucet quick connect to allow bucket filling. Is there a way to break it and disable the water stop?
Stuart
Not easily or safely – at least not to my knowledge. The easiest/cheapest option would be to order a compatible plug and an inexpensive high-flow spray nozzle or attachment.
Lynsta K Bemis
thanks
PETE
I actually use my quick connects backward than the way you have them shown. Reason being is because i can still use the hose to spray water without having to have a connector on the hose. It give a good stream with enough volume of water. Then i have a brass on/off valve behind that.
The only reason i have quick connect fittings is because we have 2 groups of trees that each have a separate irrigation line for them because i haven’t run a underground line to them yet. Very quick to swap the hose from one to another.
Uli
This quick connector system has been around in Germany for decades in tens of millions of backyards(both no exaggeration). Let me tell you. You’ll figure out connecting and disconnecting them without getting spritzed all the time. It’s a learning curve. Getting an extra in between valve is overkill and not neccessary.
Also, there are also connectors without the auto water stop valve available, so be mindful when you go shopping.
Scotty
It depends on the water pressure and your bicep/forearm strength too. I bet my good ole Merican Alabama water pressure (on unregulated side) is higher than the typical German country cottage. Way too hard to press together the autoshutoff fittings with 90-100 psi. Works ok with 50 psi.
I love the Germans, but despite their best efforts to convince us all, their technology is not always superior…
Koko the Talking Ape
Curt Shields has a clever suggestion. I have one too: hook up everything starting from the far end. Pistol sprayer to hose (and leave the sprayer open, as Curt suggests), then hose to reel hose or whatever, then reel hose to spigot. When the pressure comes out of the spigot, the air in the hose will absorb some of it, and reduce the spraying-in-face.
“I realize that my experience my water cooling lines involved pumps that were de-energized when I was working on them, and a water reservoir with small air gap provided relief for any built-up pressure.”
That’s interesting. So how did the air gap work? Did it act as an air spring?
Stuart
Bleeding a small closed system water cooling line isn’t perfect, and no matter how much attention I paid to filling it up and checking on things in time, air bubbles would dislodge and collect in the reservoir. I’d top things off and then learned to be satisfied with some air in there. I figured it allowed for some flexibility it came to temperature fluctuations or what-not.
Koko the Talking Ape
I see, thanks!
Nathan
If you are thinking you will routinely trade implements while the water is on then yes you will need some version of a seperate shut off to help. When I had gardena fittings and bits – I used to be able to trade hose pieces by opening the nozzle during the trade out.
IE hold the handle down – pull the QD – and snap it on. However if your water pressure is over 50psi it might not work so well.
I’ve since gone away from qd’s and the gardena stuff becasue of water flow restrictions. IE when I go to use a sprinkler I noticed the flow rate was cut by nearly a 1/3 with the gardena stuff. Now it’s not a major issue I agree but when I needed to use 3 spots it adds up to longer time. SO I went to the open brass QD’s those don’t hold up so great if only becasue once the balls wear they weep water. So in that regard the gasketed Gardena system I think works better.
But in the end I decided I really don’t need qd’s that much. I have one multi pattern on one hose, another on the other. When I use a sprinker for the various spots like around the tree – the minute it takes to trade out is minimal.
Steve
Try kinking hose near the end and hold it. Then reconnect fittings. It relieves pressure enough for a clean reconnect. I personally use a ball valve on the end as has been mentioned.
JML
Hah! I posted a comment about this on your earlier QR fitting question. The water shut-off fittings all do this, with normal water pressure in the hose. They work find to shut off the water, but they’re close to impossible to use when you want to attach something again! I use separate shutoffs like you have pictured, from Lee Valley or Ely.
JML
The Lee Valley shut-off: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/garden/water-and-irrigation/hoses-and-accessories/73816-thumb-operated-shut-off-valves
The Ely shut-off: https://www.eleyhosereels.com/products/garden-hose-ball-valve
The first is aluminum, the second is brass. The Lee Valley is easy to use with only your thumb, but the Ely is more difficult to open and shut.
firefly
The aquo hose quick connect that I mentioned in your other thread will allow you to connect/disconnect while under pressure with ease. The whole design is just superior where user use a twist vs push on to connect. It work similar to the a screw hence the leverage is much greater.
https://aquorwatersystems.com/shop/hose-quick-connect-kit/ they can also be found on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Aquor-Systems-HSA7-Garden-Connect/dp/B016SG31LO
Olab
I have used the gardena for years and never had problems disconnecting and connecting with autostop connectors. I think I have 35-45 psi last I measured. I think you are doing it wrong maybe. Maybe I pull the latch back when I connect if I remember for easier to get in, I know my neighbors 9year old kid have some issues doing it.
Stuart
Tried that too. no change.
If it connects when not pressurized, and doesn’t when it is, how am I the problem? These things don’t come with instructions, and work effortlessly when pressure is relieved.
Maybe my choice in hose has something to do with it?
I’ve got a pressure gauge on the way, and will also try a few different things.
Nathan
If your line pressure is up near 70 that would be a big part of your issue. then it’s not about insertion force as much as it is about how much flow escapes in that 1/2 second prior to latching. Example assuming a 5/8 ID of the plunger (I know it’s not that large) you have a rought 0.31 sq in surface area, with 70 PSI you look at 21 lbs or so.
at 50 you’re near 15
EItherway good luck I had gardena stuff outside in the south for 6 years or so. It held up well. Loved the hose end sprayer for the longest time.
Bob
My spigots and hoses came from the factory with the old school quick disconnect feature. I think its 3/4” hose thread. Lol
All kidding aside I just don’t see the point of quick disconnect fitting especialy hearing all the problems you have had with them. I also tried some I got for free. I thought it was a neat idea in theory but I had nothing but problems. Ended up tossing them. It looks like a solution in search of a problem.
If I want to switch sprayers without going to the spigot and turning off the valve I bend/kink the hose two or three times and that’s enough to stop the water and I screw on whatever I want to use. I would say I have fairly high water pressure and I have not had any problems connecting and disconnecting in this way.
The only issues with regular threaded hoses was I had pot metal threads on a cheap hose that corroded. Had to cut the hose to get it apart. Make sure you buy solid brass connectors. The other problem is I occasionally lose the sealing washer on the female portion. I bough a whole bag of extras for a few bucks.
Ps i’m going to have to check out those swan hoses. Lifetime guarantee must mean they’re actually built well. Although I have not worn out too many hoses over the years the cheap ones with zink
connector not withstanding.
Albert
Question about the Gardena set: Does the female connector with the external threads (it would normally go on the end of the hose that connects to the spigot) have a water stop valve? The set I received only has the valve on one of the female connectors.
Stuart
The second image in this post: https://14cyiuhvcgv.com/garden-hose-quick-connector-fittings-good-question/%3C/a%3E shows the typical uses and applications.
Based on that, the male-threaded female socket is designed to be used on the female-threaded hose end that typically attaches to the spigot. I imagine that at the spigot, the built-in valve or a splitter’s branch valve will always be present.
Jasiek
At least in Europe you can get Gardena quick connect fittings with integrated valve to put at the end of the hose. Works much better than the stop fitting, and restricts the flow less.
Clayton James
I’ve never liked the quick connects that stop flow as I like to drain the pressure from the system after I’m done using the hose. I’ve always removed the plunger to stop flow in my previous quick connects. After HD and Lowes went to a cheaper version of their quick connects I’ve now switched to the Gorilla Quick Connects from Amazon and I’m very happy so far. They are a flow through design. I’ve never experienced a hose quick connect that can easily and reliably connect/disconnect under pressure like an air hose. I’m guessing that would be very hard since water is compressible.
Steve
The auto stop valves also decrease the flow rate of the water
RG
You should check out Eley watering products. No other company comes close to their quality.
Peter
I have about 80psi going out to auto retracting hose reel from Gardena. I just wanted to search toolguyd after I installed it last night. Just thought I’d find more about the brand. I was able to muscle the QD fitting on under that pressure but I doubt my wife is going to manage. We’ll probably stick to one attachment most of the time. Initial impression is good for the hose reel fyi. After installing auto retracting air and electric hose reels on my work trucks and garage it makes me wonder how I lived before without such things. We’ll I didn’t tend to always wind things up. That made me look up to see if there was any such thing for garden hoses because I’d never roll up the conventional kind. It seems most people don’t except end of season or if they know they won’t use it again for a week or so. I may try to get my neighbor to install one…so I don’t have to move his hose everytime I mow for him
Eric U.
Hello – I just couldn’t get this comment out of my head throughout the article:
**”I could remove an attachment, but I could not connect anything while the water spigot was on and the valve was under pressure.”**
Do you know your spigot pressure? I know mine is at “regulation”, but it seems low. I have no trouble connecting. My 66yr old mother has trouble connecting hers – and she has more pressure. I have no problem connecting it for her. It’s easier than trying to connect an air hose fitting at 150psi.
I can believe 1 of 2 things:
#1- you have a RIDICULOUS water pressure
#2- you have the strength of a 66yr old woman
“Tool Guys” can connect an air tool to a pressurized air hose, without emptying the tank. These quick connects work in the same fashion, but at a much lower pressure….
Stuart
The water was DEFINITELY over-pressure, I had a new regulator installed since then.
Those quick release fittings have been much easier to work. I have tried different quick releases since then, and some are harder to attach and release under pressure than others.