AccuSharp manufactures quite a few different sharpeners, but one caught my eye: the GardenSharp Tool Sharpener. I use a knife sharpener all the time to keep up the edge on my cooking and fillet knives, but I never thought about using a similar tool on my garden tools.
As with woodworking tools, power tool accessories, and kitchen utensils, tools that are properly sharp perform better and are often safer to use.
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The GardenSharp can be used sharpen single-edged tools, such as pruning shears, hoes, shovels, and even lawnmower blades.
If drawing a tool like the GardenSharp down a sharp blade sounds a little scary, that’s why they have a built-in hand and finger guard. You should still follow the tool’s instructions and use an abundance of caution.
To use the GardenSharp, you match the sharpener’s blades to the beveled side of the tool’s cutting edge. Then, holding the GardenSharp perpendicular to the flat side of the cutting edge, you pull the sharpener along the edge, repeating as many times as necessary. If a certain tool is a little awkward to sharpen, you can take the sharpener apart and reverse the tungsten carbide cutters to get a different angle.
The first time you use the GardenSharp, it will modify the angle of the cutting edge to match that of the tool’s carbide cutters. It might take a couple of passes of the sharpener to do this. AccuSharp claims that, once the angles match up, it should only take 2 to 3 passes to bring the edge back to proper sharpness. If you are using this to sharpen your lawnmower blade, they give you a special warning to make sure the blade is balanced before re-installing it back in the mower.
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There’s a general usage warning that is worth repeating:
If you get the GardenSharp dirty while sharpening all of those outdoor tools, AccuSharp says you can wash it with soap and water, as it is made from materials that won’t rust.
If you are still wary of using a sharpener like this, the good news is it won’t cost you much to it out. The GardenSharp is priced at around $9 at online retailers such as Amazon and Walmart.
Buy Now (GardenSharp via Amazon)
Buy Now (GardenSharp via Walmart)
You can also buy replacement cutters, which fit most AccuSharp sharpener models, for $5 at Amazon.
Buy Now (Replacement Blades via Amazon)
More Info (Instructions for Use via GardenSharp)
Here’s a look at some of AccuSharp’s other sharpeners: via Amazon, via AccuSharp.
Nathan
So how well did it work? I use a dremel device for my lawn mower blade and my large pruner. honestly for 9 dollars this looks easier than that.
Benjamen
I haven’t actually bought one yet, but I’m really tempted to try it. For my lawnmower blades I use my grinder to take out the dings and a file to sharpen the edge. I like doing it by hand because I can better control the angle and how much metal I’m removing (plus I don’t heat up the blade), but it is a bit of work.
I don’t really sharpen my shears or loppers, I don’t use them much. Maybe I’d use them more if they were sharper.
Ken S.
I have this and was not a fan, besides traditional sharpening the only easy to use tool I have found is made by Fiskars. The Fiskars axe & knife sharpener has replaceable stone wheels and has been much more effective for me. If you have a destroyed edge the gardensharp is nice to get some edge – but far from clean.
Benjamen
When I first started writing about this tool, I thought this had a stone, inside, then I found the instructions online and found out about the carbide blades. I was/still am a little skeptical about how easy it is to sharpen a blade with a blade. If the blade you are sharpening was dinged or not perfect already I can see this catching and maybe making the edge worse. Then again the tungsten carbide is so much harder than the metal in the lawnmower blade…about the other tools edges I just don’t know.
I’m curious why didn’t you like it? Did it mangle the edge, or just didn’t sharpen?
Ken S.
It made it sharper, but not for long. The carbide shaved off the rolled areas of the edge and literally dragged off old metal to make a new surface but it left the cutting edge thin and fragile.
steve
These things are horrible for sharpening of kitchen knives, would hate to see how badly they mess up tool blades.
fred
In 14 years as a scoutmaster I taught a lot of scouts and scouters (adults) to sharpen axes, chisels and gouges (woodcarving merit badge) knives, loppers, and scythes. My go to tools are a file and a waterstone – and was always skeptical of these things. At home I have several options for carving chisels/gouges and plane irons – and I’ve learned over the years how to put a mirror polished edge on these. But for garden tools – a sharp file (files do wear out) and variously-shaped waterstones are still what I use. I used to sharpen and then balance mower blades – off the mower – but I sold the mower and now I leave that task to the landscaper or whoever does this for him.
What I find interesting is that the majority of reviews on Amazon are very positive – so it might be a case that the tool actually works or possibly some of the reviewers are not that discerning – since some others think the tool is terrible.
SteveR
When removing a sharp (or dull) blade, it’s a good safety practice to wear leather gloves to protect yourself from nicks and slices. I’d wear them through the sharpening process, and during the install, as well. Eye protection, in the form of safety glasses, would be prudent, even though this is a manual procedure. If you’re using a bench grinder, though, you’ll need a face shield to protect yourself from the grit and bits of metal (sparks) that get thrown out. They always seem to find exposed skin (neck and face), as well as your eyes (which are irreplaceable).
SteveR
…and before you attempt to remove the blade from the lawnmower, it’s a good idea to remove the spark plug. Don’t rely on just taking the plug wire off; it could slip back, making contact. While you have the plug out, you can also check it’s condition and replace it if necessary.
Jason
You could just electrical tape on the plug and spark plug boot.
Dave
What a joke.
Lawnmower blades? Does ANYONE on the face of the earth believe that?
A few tips for the unenlightened on sharpening lawnmower blades:
1) There ain’t no way the mower’s going to start by you unbolting the blade. If you think there’s much of a chance of that, don’t get out of bed in the morning, because the chance that you’ll misstep on the way out and fall and die are greater.
2) the blade has to come of because you need to adequately sharpen it, and you need to check it for balance (stick your pocketknife or a nail through the center hole and make sure it “hangs” fairly level which means each side weighs about the same and it’ll spin true).
3) use a pedestal grinder or a 4″, 4.5″, or 7″ hand-held grinder on the blade while it’s clamped in a vice
Oh, as far as sharpening shovels, spades, etc-give then a quick swipe w a hand-held grinder when they’re new and they’ll normally stay quite sharp with use.
Save your money, that Garden Sharp thingy is a joke.
SteveR
Dave–I’m sorry if you feel that a lawnmower could never start on its own. No, it’s not likely, but it could happen under the right circumstances, so safety dictates that you pull the plug to prevent that occurrence. We do that for the same reason an automotive tech disconnects the battery on a car before working on the engine, or an electrician goes to the fuse box and cuts the power to outlets and/or appliances while repairs are being made. If you eliminate the possibility of injury, no matter how slight, you insure that you go home with all of your body parts intact. That’s what all of my shop teachers drilled into me, and thankfully it’s worked so far.
matt ryan
I have one, it works great with axes, hatchets, and machetes. It works particularly well with machetes because it makes it easy to maintain the same bevel sown the whole length. Totally worth the money.
Nathan
I can see it more as a blade straighten, and minor hone/polish. but I can’t image it will re-dress a blade after damage. Also I wonder just how well a one angle system would work