Harbor Freight launched a new titanium hammer that they say compares to the Stiletto TI14MC hammer.
The new Harbor Freight titanium hammer is advertised as being 35% lighter than comparable sized steel head hammers, for “better control and more power.”
They add that the balanced titanium head has internal vibration protection.”
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The Doyle titanium hammer features an offset milled face, magnetic nail starter, and straight claw for prying apart fastened lumber.
Harbor Freight says it’s backed by a 100% lifetime guarantee.
It has an axe-style wood handle made from American hickory.
Doyle 70467 Hammer Specs
- 1-1/2″ strike face size
- 14oz head weight
- Milled (checkered) face
- 14″ handle length
- Handle made from American hickory
Price: $59.99
Discussion
$60 seems like an aggressively low price for a Ti-head hammer.
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Personally, I’m not a fan of wood-handled titanium hammers; I believe that most of the fatigue-reducing benefits come from reducing the weight of the shaft.
The goal, in my opinion, is to lower the swing resistance as much as possible. Decreasing the head weight is an option – as is done here – and there are other ways to achieve similar and even greater effects.
I’ve tested a couple of wood-handled titanium head hammers before, and found that I preferred high-velocity-style steel-head hammers better. Skeletonized Ti-handled hammers offer the greatest difference in swing and strike feel, but their high pricing can be prohibitive.
That said, Harbor Freight seems to promise some Ti hammer benefits without the very high costs associated with more premium brands and and models.
At $60, this seems like a “buy and try” type of tool. If you don’t feel a noticeable difference compared to your other hammers, Harbor Freight has a generous low-risk return policy.
Jared McBeth
This certainly looks better than Hart’s version. E.g.:
https://14cyiuhvcgv.com/hart-titanium-hammer/%3C/a%3E%3C/p%3E
That said, with titanium on the milled-faced, I imagine that milling might wear away fast.
Or if the “lifetime” warranty takes care of that problem, wouldn’t a harder steel face also help it hit harder? E.g. translate more of the impact to the nail.
Lance
I have a milled face Ti Dalluge wood handle hammer and it’s fantastic. Compared to a steel head it’s much easier to use and obviously easier on my joints.
I have not tried an all-Ti design as they are prohibitively expensive. Stiletto started this whole Ti hammer craze with their wood handled design. They’re great too.
Yes, the milled face on my Ti hammer is pretty flattened out, but it’s still more textured than a flat face without the tendency to shred flesh with a mid-strike.
JR Ramos
It’ll be interesting to see the product reviews/comments on this. I imagine they’ll sell like hotcakes to a lot of people that only occasionally use a hammer but if some trim carpenters or framers give it a shot I’d like to see what they find out. Hopefully they used Grade 5 titanium and didn’t cheap out with typical Grade 2 for some reason…from the photos and head finish it almost looks like cheap remelt Grade 2 but it would be ridiculous to use that for a hammer head. Checkering doesn’t look well done but that wears away fairly quickly anyway. I wonder if they’ll bring out a heavier framing-worthy model. I’ll probably run over this evening and take a look at these in person just for kicks.
I’m curious whether real/active tradesmen will latch on to this one if it’s in fact work-worthy. There is still so much strong US-made sentiment, plus the extras that come with Martinez or Stiletto, that the small cost savings may not be enough to sway them to Buy Chinese. Pardon the off-color comment here but I know in my region where framing is dominated by Mexican immigrants (many are not citizens or even close to getting through that process) they’ll just go for cheapest on most tools. That really isn’t any sort of racial or political comment, just observation of crews and outfits that I’ve seen or dealt with in recent years.
Farkleberry
I think this is the heavy framing worthy model. The checkering would suggest this use.
I haven’t checked out the amazing claims of all the competitors, but Stiletto’s version claims:
“This 14oz titanium hammer hits like a 24oz steel hammer with 45% less weight and 10X less recoil shock. It is recommended for rough framing and remodeling.”
Any heavier and it would obviously hit like a sledge hammer.
With a coupon, generous return policy and lifetime warranty, I imagine I’ll finally be putting the titanium puffery to the test at some point.
JR Ramos
Checkering doesn’t matter, but I suppose framing-worthy just depends on the work being done and these days it’s more common for people to swing in the 22oz range since for most hammers are much less frequently used than in years past. Around here many still seem to lug the 24 and 28 and still seem to be doing a lot of hand nailing. I’m no framer or carpenter but have sunk an awful lot of nails and I did get to use an early Stilleto and a Dalluge (14 and 16 oz if I remember right). To me they felt like about a 20-22oz hit, but there’s no denying the benefit if you don’t mind the cost and slight disadvantages for some things. The marketing numbers – most who have used them would agree, I think – are inflated, but there are still nice benefits and felt differences. One of the best is less weight on the belt. Oddly, any heavier hitting like a sledge hammer is absolutely not true in real use, at all.
If you don’t swing a lot, spending for titanium may just be an exercise in fun but if you really do use it a bunch you’ll appreciate it and it’ll go a LONG way toward saving your elbow and shoulder. I had a good friend who was a framer for the first 15 years of his adult working life and he suffered from both permanent chronic tennis elbow and tinnitus from all those years swinging Estwing steel handles (I think he preferred the 28oz after stepping down from a 30oz). He had real issues with the elbow trying to pull back a bowstring and in his next career as a camera repairman (all those tiny screwdrivers, all day long), and he often said he wished he’d quit carpentry sooner or picked a different route in the trade. He passed away before ti heads hit the scene but I would have loved to hear his take on them assuming he could still swing them enough to judge.
Dave P
“I believe that most of the fatigue-reducing benefits come from reducing the weight of the shaft.
The goal, in my opinion, is to lower the swing resistance as much as possible.”
You are certainly entitled to your opinion, as I am mine (and my doctor’s). Having swung a $300 Martinez for several weeks straight each and every day all day, and ended up with shoulder and elbow issues, my doctor (who does carpentry work as a hobby) told me, “Save that REALLY expensive hammer for demo when you need the handle to stand up to extreme abuse, and go get a ‘somewhat expensive’ wooden-handled Stiletto for building things. You absolutely can’t beat the shock-absorbing properties of the wood handle as it flexes”.
After some rest, I went back to my project of building a very large shed, using my “new” wooden-handled Stiletto, driving 50 penny ring shanks. NO MORE SHOULDER AND ELBOW TROUBLES.
I love my Martinez for demo–I KICK IT to pull spikes, and I’ll swing it “some” . But for swinging all day, a wooden handle and it’s shock-absorbing properties, are hard to beat.
My opinion only, is that you’re incorrect. Swing a metal handle-titanium or otherwise, for weeks on end, all day, every day, and then see what your opinion is. I bet it’ll change, (especially as you age).
Stuart
Wood tends to be a fantastic handle material and can have quite good vibration damping properties. However, this can vary depending on different variables, including the type and age of the wood.
Which Martinez did you switch from, and has your experiences with the wood-handled Stiletto change over time?
Doresoom
Stuart, I’d just like to say thank you for using “damping” instead of “dampening”.
Stuart
Technically…
But enough arguments have erupted in the comments section that I make the deliberate wording choice every time.
In physics, deceleration was a no-no trigger word. So if damping vs dampening makes the engineers happy, I totally understand.
You’re welcome. =)
Dave P
M1. Still the best demo hammer ever.
No, my experiences have not changed.I have Stilletos and Dalluge’s and they are both fabulous wooden-handled hammers.
Leo B.
I’ve professionally used a Martinez M1 for a few years, sinking and pulling thousands of nails. I can’t say I’ve ever noticed an issue with my shoulder or elbow, but wood handles are pretty great for vibration absorption. I’m curious- why 50d ring shanks? Are you doing 2×4 on edge purlins?
blocky
Dave P, I think your observation is essentially correct, that a well-selected wood handle will do more for your joints than a profiled metal handle of any metal. The slim i-beam profile of these metal handles is designed to make it strong enough on axis not to flex, bend, or snap from impacts, while remaining light enough to be reasonable. In other words, they are designed NOT to damp. Wood handles, particularly with long and strong fibers, will flex. They can also be thinned in places to change their flex characteristics, and I have both improved and worsened the handle damping characteristics of different hammers in my collection.
I agree with Stuart that reduced swing resistance is a characteristic of titanium hammers, but the sensation of this has many factors, including the leverage of the weight in the hand, which is related to the head weight but also to the weight all along the handle, and a metal handle does weigh more, even with cutouts.
To illustrate this: I have a 12oz (headweight) Martinez M4 that weighs in at about 2lbs, handle included; in fact, it weighs overall almost identical to my 18oz Fatmax antivibe 16″ handle steel hammer. I also have a 14oz Stiletto axe-handled framer (very much like this Doyle). The Stiletto and Fatmax hammers have essentially identical curve geometry.
My 14oz Stilletto with 16″ handle hits very differently than my 12oz Martinez M4. It feels dramatically lighter, swings for the fences and can sink big nails easier despite having less weight. However, I cannot get it to hit for anything in close quarters, whereas the 2lbs of metal in the M4 packs a pretty good lump even in a tighter space. The FatMax hammer that was one of my first tool purchases is still surprisingly good – a bit light for a framer, but suprisingly nuanced for finish work.
As far as protecting the elbows and shoulders, besides damping, besides titanium, a less-discussed factor is deflection. A hammer that lands without deflection will transfer energy better than a hammer that has a tendency to glance off to the side and therefore can utilize a lighter swing. A hammer that lands without deflection will also reduce the tightness and quickness with which one has to grip the handle at the end of the swing, when energy rebounds through the tool into your body. A few factors that influence deflection are: experience, the curve or lack of curve of the strike face, milling or lack of milling of the strike face, the slope angle of the strike face (many are intentionally pitched back a few degrees and many cheap ones are arbitrarily pitched), the forward weight of the hammer head (if any), the handle profile as it sits in the hand and where it registers the fingers and palm, which can alter the trajectory of the hammer as it connects. A well-made hammer can be held, not death-gripped, even when swinging with great force.
One of my favorite hammers is the Wiha electricians hammer which has a tiny striking face (about 7/8″) and a one-piece metal construction. Because there is metal all the way through the body, it is very balanced in the hand no matter where on the handle you hold it and still has enough weight to send some nails. It is like the baby brother to the m4 and is very easy to swing precisely, although it is much heavier than my other finish hammers.
Anyways, I bet this Doyle is pretty close to the Stiletto.
eddiesky
Wiha electricians hammer — how’d I not know of this!! I use a DeWalt Framing nailer (cordless) and at most 45degree shots, it needs a hammer to finish out. Because of tight spaces, this guy would be ideal. And for when I have to do cable staples or nailers, my finish hammer is too big and smooth, and need something for tight spaces. Thanks!
RedKilgore
Absolute agreement with the wooden handles, even the fiberglass and fancier composites with marketing wank “vibration absorbers” don’t feel the way wood does. Your joints will tell on you if you keep swinging a metal stick.
Nathan
Is the handle length comparable to the longer handled steel framer hammers? Or is this more meant for general purpose
Stuart
Milled-face hammers are usually intended for framing applications.
JR Ramos
I looked at these in store last night. Going by peg holes the handle was just shy of 16″, so yeah…about the same as most unless you’re talking the longer 18″ heavier head hammers. They had six and the finish and pitting in the heads was all over the place – probably not good quality ti but probably suitable enough and a good price on them. Handles all seemed well made and finished, handle wedges were ok but a couple looked suspect and like they might let loose too early. Milling was done poorly but it’s ti, so you can pretty much ignore that because it’ll knock down in short order anyway with use, especially if you’re whacking a cat’s paw or bar with it.
JR Ramos
Oh…the magnets looked poorly done but serviceable. I’d expect those to either crack or fall out before long but that’s an easy fix and it happens to other hammers with that feature as well. One thing that did concern me was the poor grind inside the claw groove. Only one looked decent but the rest were sharp or jagged such that I’d expect them to crack on a good pull or three…could touch that up at home with a small stone in a dremel or whatever and prevent the stress risers hopefully.
Nick
I much prefer wood handles for framing.
If I’m doing concrete or demo work, the metal shaft helps it last longer, but as far as swinging, you can’t beat a wood ax handle.
ParamountPaint
I have a stiletto mini 14 as my daily hammer. I’ve been happy enough with it for driving mainly hdg spiral 16s and the odd 10d joist nail. Probably location dependant in a way, but there isn’t too much hand nailing going on on jobsites around my parts.
I will say, titanium hammer beats steel estwing for nailing nails…maybe not so much for demo work.
I’d give it a shot for that price
Farkleberry
I don’t really understand all the claims of these titanium hammers.
I do understand titanium is supposed have better vibration damping than steel, but isn’t it much worse than wood?
I know the all steel models rely on rubber grips to reduce vibration/shock. I imagine this is more or less effective vs wood depending on many variables like hammer and nail metal and hardness, type/grain of wood, etc. There are probably multiple vibration frequencies and differences in motion as well.
Stuart,
I don’t understand when you say most of the effects are from the all metal handles.
Are the handles that much lighter in titanium, or even steel, vs wood? Replacement wood handles have always seemed pretty light to me.
Are the heads on all metal (titanium or “high velocity steel”) hammers larger and heavier relative to the overall weight vs the wood handled Ti?
I’m guessing the claims of a 14 oz hammer that ” hits like a 24 oz” necessitates a much faster swing speed. Are the purported health and fatigue advantages related to doing less work with your arm?
This would seem to be a hard thing to compare, swinging a light hammer very fast, vs a heavy hammer slower, even if the actual striking force is the same. The recoil would also seem difficult to compare. I wonder how different fastener types, woods, and grip tightness, arm weight, etc. would affect the motion and vibration aspects of rebound?
For example, I was driving some sod staples recently with a rubber hammer requiring faster speed and more hits vs a hand sledge that let gravity do a lot more of the work and required less hits. In soft dirt, the lighter mallet seemed easier, but in harder dirt the sledge seemed easier.
With so many variables, and especially dealing with ergos, I can appreciate and value anecdotal reports from people who have compared the different types and have strong preferences. I imagine it might be difficult to say exactly why some hammer types seem easier and less tiring to use. Even a scientific analysis might find it difficult to determine which of multiple effects are most important.
Just wondering if you or anyone else have any further insights?
Thanks.
fred
Have you tried a Staple Pro?
https://www.amazon.com/Staple-Ease-Driver-Bio-Pro/dp/B07612BJ5Y
It gets some mixed reviews – but a nephew who runs a landscaping business – says it works for him.
There are other tools as well:
https://hydroseedsupply.com/staple-guns-and-staples
Farkleberry
Have never even seen this type. Have thought about the $60 type that has a grooved head with a magnet (I think).
Luckily I don’t currently use them often enough to justify $300.
Also, reading the reviews about jams, not sure they would work me. Would I were back in the sugar sand…
Now, pretty much every third staple hits a root or rock and starts to bend, then I have to hunt around 3 or 4 more spots, and straighten out staples.
I appreciate the tip though, will keep it in mind.
fred
That’s part of the reason why Amazon reviews can be so mixed. My nephew’s business is mostly around beach communities in the Carolinas. Maybe sandy soil – so he swears by it. A guy using the same tool in rocky New England soil might swear at it.
Dave P
I’m no physics professor; I just get things done. But I GUARANTEE you that a 14-15 oz titanium hammer will hit as hard and drive a nail as fast as a 20-22 oz steel hammer, with the same number of swings and amount of effort and its WAY easier on you…. and I couldn’t care less why as I’m not a theorist but a doer.
Nick
This is true. My tennis elbow disappeared shortly after buying my mini 14. Still love my old vaughan and use it from time to time but the stiletto hangs from my tool bags daily.
Farkleberry
Thanks for info doer Dave.
Have you tried something like the ~$25 Vaughan California 16 oz framer? Just wondering if it’s some titanium magic or the light weight you like?
I never had any issues with a 19-22 oz, but shot way more nails than I hand drove. Carrying all day, I could see a big difference, though.
If you’re having issues with your body from age and repetitive stress, a nail gun is probably quite a bit cheaper and less painful than orthopedic surgery down the line. As you said, you’re into getting $tuff done, well, they’re pretty quick too. Who knows though, maybe you could rival Larry Haun, I wish could. I do like simple, and there’s something quite satisfying about hand driving nails.
I’ve worn the milling off enough steel faces, I’m just wondering how titanium holds up in comparison? This is where Harbor Freight is tempting me with their warranty, wondering what it covers? Lots of carpenters don’t like switching hammers between tasks, the milling will mess up some trim/siding pretty quick. For mere mortals rough framing, the milling seems to help, though.
blocky
In use, the titanium milling will wear faster than steel milling. I’ve heard that grinding titanium requires eye-protection, not only for the normal projectile reasons, but due to the sparks being so bright that they are potentially retina damaging.
Dave P
I have several pneumatic guns of all sizes/brands and even a battery one. I sometimes use them when they are to my advantage and worth dragging around..
The milling does wear off faster on the titanium faces, and I sharpen the claws occasionally as well (but I’ve been known to split stakes and dig dirt w the claws)…. The titanium hammers will eventually wear out but it takes a lot of use.
I have a couple of Dalluge’s from Menard’s (I don’t think they carry them anymore) and they were about half the price of a Stiletto and I can’t really tell any difference.
My favorite hammer by far is my little wooden handle Stiletto–it’s maybe 10 or 11 oz and is to replace a 16 oz–perfect for siding, electrical, cabinet, remodel, and wood shop use. Light as a feather…
Farkleberry
Dave, I guess the rationale for caring “why” something works is somewhat just educational fascination and somewhat practical.
There are lots of marketing claims, and revolutionary products that are successful tend to get copied.
With so many nuances to head and handle shape, weight and material, separating the finely tuned machines from lipstick on a pig can be difficult.
Infinite variations in users’ bodies, kinematics, and applications may make complete generalizations impossible.
If I can understand the mechanics behind something, hopefully I can predict and weigh the pros and cons without actually having to buy and try every product out.
Hearing from people who have tried many similar tools in typical applications, and have developed strong preferences (with or without being able to explain why) is invaluable, and a great reason to frequent this site.
Stuart
The “why” even if murky and mixed with subjective preferences and “feel” components, can help protect one against BS marketing hype.
One brand claimed “it’s better because KE = 1/2 mv^2 ,” and they touted that taking away mass but adding velocity leads to much greater striking power.
That’s a poor way to look at things, in my opinion, with momentum being a much better descriptor of strike mechanics. When talking about momentum or angular momentum, mass and velocity are directly proportional.
Since then I’ve noticed that a lot of the differences in feel aren’t about making a hammer lighter, but making it *feel* lighter, which usually requires careful designing of the hammer head and handle, as well as overall balance.
Does any of that translate into selecting a better hammer? Not at all, sometimes you just need to try different styles and find one that works best for you.
fred
Personal preference goes a long way toward what one might call “the best hammer”. We bought lots of hammers over the years for our crews. We would defer to letting anyone bring their own hammer if they wanted something as pricey as a Martinez – but otherwise were accommodating to what folks wanted to try. Some of the guys liked some all-steel ones (E3-205) from Estwing – but others hated them. We bought some DWHT51138 migweld hammers – and the same mixed emotions were seen. The guys wanted to try titanium – so we bought some Dalluge 7180’s – that got mixed reviews. We tried Stanley 51-944 – advertised as Anti-Vibe – but no one wanted us to buy more beyond the first 2.
My personal favorites are older wood-handled steel, but I swing a hammer quite infrequently,
Douglas DFI18S14CX – 18 oz. Finish Nailer
Stanley OH-12 (51-350) – 13oz.
Stanley OH-11 (51-353) – 20oz.
Stuart
I have heard so many explanations over the years, some of them reasonable and others counterintuitive and maybe even completely bogus.
I last attempted to tackled the matter a few years ago, here – https://14cyiuhvcgv.com/high-velocity-hammer-theory/%3C/a%3E%3C/p%3E
KokoTheTalkingApe
“…most of the effects are from the all metal handles.”
It’s about distributing the weight (really, mass). If you have 16 oz to work with, you want as much of it in the head as you can, for the most effective strike. Metals are stronger than wood for the same weight, so a metal handle can be lighter, allowing the head to be heavier.
Come to that, I did some checking and it turns out aluminum is even stronger by weight than titanium or steel. So an aluminum handled hammer would be as good as it gets, and Estwing actually made one. Don’t know how well it was accepted though (it also has an anti-bounce shot filling).
Now all that is entirely separate from vibration absorption, which can be handled (see what I did there?) in a few different ways.
fred
The Estwing ALBK gets many positive reviews. But some say that the aluminum handle is subject to damage
https://www.amazon.com/ESTWING-ALBK-Aluminum-Smooth-Al-Pro/dp/B01LWOX1Z9
MM
Mass distribution is a tricky thing when it interacts with the human body. If you could make a hammer with all the weight concentrated in the head it would have the maximum possible inertia and we could probably say that it “hits harder”. But it may not be more comfortable to use.
A friend demonstrated this to me in an interesting way: he’s a member of a group that dresses up like medieval knights and they fight using padded weapons. He once showed me a (padded) sword he had constructed and asked me to swing it around a bit. I did, and he asked me what I felt. I told him I didn’t know the first thing about sword-fighting so I was probably the last person to ask, but it felt tip-heavy to me, like the center of gravity was too far forward. He then inserted a large steel bolt, maybe 5/8″ diameter and 4 inches long, into the handle and had me to swing it around again. That was a huge difference, now it no longer felt tip-heavy, in fact it felt a lot more controllable to swing around. Despite the fact that we added mass to the sword it felt lighter because the effect of that added mass was to shift the center of gravity closer to the handle.
I’m thinking that if someone made a hammer with a weightless handle and all the mass concentrated right in the head it could end up feeling heavier than it really is due to that change in balance.
JR Ramos
I don’t know if that Estwing really caught on but a lot of people seemed to like them. I don’t know about aluminum being perfect here – might depend on both the alloy and the casting design. Aluminum suffers from work hardening and very poor fatigue life orders of magnitude less than more ductile materials like steel or ti. On a hammer, if other benefits are there, maybe that’s great for the user but you also never want a break to send the head flying where it can injure someone or damage something below. Wouldn’t expect it to last as long with other blows from a hammer or prying/wrenching/jacking either. That Estwing sure looked like a good design overall, though, and I thought the addition of shot was a novel idea for a nail hammer.
Kuro
A lot of the benefit of a titanium hammer over steel is that it doesn’t deflect or “bounce” off of a nail like steel does. This means that your force is applied to the nail with less energy loss.
Like a led light bulb uses less power to make the same amount of light because it produces less waste heat.
Farkleberry
I imagine even if the actual nail driving characteristics are overstated, the ergonomic and fatigue advantages of carrying 1/2 lb less is significant.
Since hand driving is becoming relatively rare, how does a lightweight, top heavy, “fast swing speed” hammer compare for adjusting and tapping things in place, etc.?
blocky
I can say, from swinging many different hammers, the lighter, faster hammers hold their own in open spaces, but are disadvantaged in tight quarters. I tend to grab heavier hammers for tapping things. Slower speed = better control.
My EDC hammers for installation work, the ones that hang on my hip, are stupidly light.
Dr. Westside
I used a hickory handle stiletto for about a couple weeks . I was so used to swinging a 23 oz 999 Vaughn rip hammer or 11659 Vaughn that I just kept destroying the handles right where the head meets the handle . I framed with a Vaughn 999 rip the or 11650 BlueMax cali framer for 20 years . They worked great . I still have my original 999 . I also prefer a straight handle , so this knockoff stiletto is a hard pass .
Jeff
What I would like to see is how much of his is actually titanium? What percentage and what grade. $60 is very cheap if it was truly a fully titanium head.
Farkleberry
The Stiletto smooth Ti 14 oz hickory handle is $85 at HD, so I could believe HF is offering a titanium head.
Have no idea about titanium alloys, grades, heat treatments, etc.
JR Ramos
I think it’s solid…no idea on the grade but above I was speculating from the look of the photos that maybe it wasn’t virgin material or possibly even poor remelt Grade 2. I don’t know if China puts out high quality Grade 5 ti or not but if you look you can find Grade 5 for sale in a few products and in raw materials…vast majority is Grade 2. After looking at these in person last night I’d almost say Grade 2 for sure but there’s no way to tell without in-use comparison I guess.
I think the China-made Stiletto was going for $60 a few years back and there were very similar ones from a few importers for the same price (Grizzly had one, I think? And that orange colored brand, whatever that was). Even assuming tariffs’ added cost it seems like $60 would leave HF with plenty of profit margin today.
Lenny
I started using a Dewalt MiG 14oz years ago and never looked back. Light, strong and relatively cheap. I think mine was $45.
Addicted2Red
for that price its worth me finally getting a Ti hammer. Of course I’ll wait for a doyle sale.
ElectroAtletico
I saw that 2 evenings ago at the HF. I was looking for a 16oz framing hammer. The price….so, I ended up going to Home Depot and just grabbing a Crescent hammer.
ParamountPaint
Here’s an interesting thing:
I just weighed my stiletto mini 14: 27.4oz. This is the smooth face version.
I scrounged up a plumb 20 framing hammer with straight claws and fiberglass handle: 28.0 oz.
Not sure what that means in the real world, but there it is.
Fwiw, the plumb was an in-a-pinch purchase that has never really been used. I didn’t really like it.
Farkleberry
Are the handles the same length?
Farkleberry
Meant to reply to paramount paint
ParamountPaint
Maybe 1.5 inches longer on the stiletto
ParamountPaint
I’ve got a bunch of estwings around, so I might gather a couple of those and check them as well.
Jon
Expect to pay a 20% restocking fee at HF if you try an item.
“RE-STOCKING FEES
A 20% re-stocking fee may apply to an item being returned. Items with a 20% re-stocking fee are subject to change at any time. See an associate for details or call Customer Support at 1-800-444-3353.
The re-stocking fee will be waived if any of these conditions are met:
Item is unopened and in new condition
Item is exchanged for an upgraded product in the same category
Item is replaced under an Extended Service Plan
Item is replaced under manufacturer Warranty”