Jeff wrote in, asking about Hex Pro’s pivoting hex keys, and whether they’re any good.
Hex Pro hex keys look like your standard Allen wrenches, but instead of a fixed right angle bend that separates the short arm and long arm, there’s a pivoting hinge joint.
Advertisement
I saw these recently at a tool shop and I had not seen similar ones before. They felt good in the hands and seemed to be good quality (although I am a Bondhus allen wrench fanboy). I did a quick search and did not see a review on your site, or maybe I missed it. Have you run across these before? They seem really nice and I wish I could figure out how to justify buying a set…
I have seen these before, and actually own two sets – a metric set in a Hex Pro pouch, and an inch set without the pouch. I don’t recall if the inch set came with a tray or not. My metric ones have a black oxide finish, the inch ones have a chrome or bare metal finish. My loose inch flex-head hex keys are MIA at the moment, and so I have really grown to appreciate the pouch that came with my metric set.
It’s weird to see the current Hex Pro page under Bondhus’ domain. Apparently Bondhus acquired the Hex Pro line of products back in 2013. So did they buy the line of products or the entire company? I guess it doesn’t matter.
Previously, these Hex Pro drivers were sold under Hex Pro branding, and then Gearwrench branding. I see that there are similar tools under Motion Pro branding, but Amazon reviews complain about the sourcing and quality suggesting they’re not the same tools. Regardless of branding, the tools all seem to be made the same.
Anyway… so how well do they work? That’s a tricky question to answer, as I don’t really like using these in place of regular hex keys except in certain situations. But in those situations, they work remarkably well. Hex Pro flex-head wrenches work best when you need to loosen or tighten fasteners with a fair amount of travel. They can reach into spots too awkward or tight for ratchets and hex bit sockets.
Definitely NOT garbage. These are good tools at the least, great even when they shave a lot of time off a project.
Advertisement
Sometimes they’re time-savers, sometimes they’re problem-solvers, sometimes they sit in my tool drawer collecting dust. Well, not the inch hex keys – as mentioned I haven’t a clue as to where they are right now.
Also, Hex Pro only makes their flex-head hex keys in limited sizes. There are a couple of metric sizes, inch sizes, and Torx sizes, but there are only a couple of sizes per each tip style. So even if I wanted to use these in place of regular hex keys, I couldn’t. Bondhus says that Hex Pro hex keys are available in 24 different sizes, with a full list available in this PDF.
This Bondhus product video shows how these hex keys are best used:
The video shows how the long arm of a Hex Pro hex key can be swung around the hinge point. This allows users to keep the hex key engaged with the fastener while turning a fastener for more than a couple of rotations.
And if there’s an application where you really need a particular angle, you could always tighten up the pivots to prevent too much flopping around about that hinge point.
I paid maybe $30-35 for each of my sets. If I recall correctly, the Torx set might have been priced a little more – maybe $45.
You can buy Hex Pro sets at a number of distributors, with Bondhus’ site specifically drawing attention to Fastenal. Prices range from too much to way too much, compared to what I remember paying a couple of years ago.
I thought that these were made in the USA, but cannot find a current reference to confirm this.
At the $30-35 price point, I do recommend Hex Pro hex key sets. They’re gotten me out of a couple of binds, and are well made overall. But they’re not must-haves. In my opinion, don’t even consider these until you have a good set of inch and metric ball end hex keys in your kit.
But at higher prices? Eh. They’re useful, but I can think of better ways to spend the money. $65 for a 5 or 6-piece set? No thanks.
If anyone finds these at a great price anywhere, please let me know so that I can add in a purchase link!
P.S. Has anyone tried Astro Pneumatic’s double swivel head hex keys (via Amazon). I’m intrigued by their potential to reach around obstacles.
If you have used these before, what do you think about them?
Buy Now(via Amazon)
Brett
Why not a ratchet and some allen head sockets with a regular old set of allen wrenches to fall back on if you don’t have the clearance? Seems like it’d be cheaper, and at least as good if not better depending on the situation.
Dave
I am a Power Plant Mechanic and love these HexPro’s. they are not an every allen wrench but they are used a lot.
SteveR
They’re hex-key wrenches, so I wouldn’t have much need for them. I have several sets of “conventional” hex wrenches; I also have a few screwdriver hex bits, both 1/4″ and 5/16″, which fit into hex sockets. I have 1/4″- and 3/8″- drive handles as well, so I feel I have the bases covered.
If I was a repair tech that encountered hex screws daily, it would make sense to have these to simplify things (fewer pieces to carry). I’m not sure how often other readers encounter hex fasteners; am I in the minority?
tim
Love mine. They fall in and out of use but when they’re used they’re one of the handiest tools around. Downside is if you do break one the individual keys are brutally expensive.
I won’t have a toolbox set up without a set.
mike aka Fazzman
Ive always wanted some of these for busting things loose, Gearwrench used to have some of these too not sure if they still do.
fred
I have the 3 (Hex and Torx) Gearwrench sets – bought back in 2008 and 2009. They look quite a bit like the Astro sets. The 5 pc. SAE set and 6 pc. metric set were made in Taiwan and the 6pc. Torx set was made in China. I’ve found them to be mildly useful – and like mike think that they may no longer be available – except perhaps on eBay etc.
Blythe M
Don’t have these, but it seems like a real advantage would be the ability to spin the fastener like a screwdriver once it’s loose. Break loose ability is equal to a ratchet, but then to be able to switch and spin these often long and fine thread cap screws- awesome.
Stuart
Even if you tighten the pivot so that the hinge doesn’t flop around, it’s incredibly difficult to twirl such a narrow shaft with any speed. Don’t count on being able to use them inline like screwdrivers.
JoeT
Nonsense. I spin them like a screwdriver constantly, and it’s very easy to do. Just tighten up the pivot joint a bit, and one would have to completely lack any degree of hand coordination to not be able to spin these things like a screwdriver easily.
Stuart
There’s hardly any torque delivery when you twist them between two fingers.
If you have a loose nut, that’s one thing, working longer fasteners through longer-threaded holes is different and goes a lot slower with more effort.
HexPro wrenches are pretty inexpensive and they’re useful, but they’re nowhere as convenient, fast, or easy to use inline as screwdriver-style hex drivers such as Bondhus ball-end hex keys. Those are much better for this type of thing.
Charles
When in places that bust knuckles and cut to the quick,they are good to have
Pete
GARBAGE! I mean they are cool and I would buy them if I first had every other tool in the whole world first. But I would rather have a set of socket allen keys like I do. Which I can put on my impact and put the pedal down and get some work done. Then when I need some fine tuning break out the ratchet and get a feel for how tight it is/needs to be.
Yadda
+1
Nathan
I can see the appeal for those cases where your standard key won’t fit and you don’t have room for your socket, bit holder, etc drive.
you need s 62 degree angle – these can do that.
Only thing is I think all hex keys should have ball style ends on the end of the long segment.
will look for some. – honestly they could make torx head sets, and even a flat, philips set for the exact same reasons.
Dan
I have the Astro set in metric, not the best made tool there ever was but they work when access is difficult, they are also long for a given size which can help when breaking fasteners loose, something that’s not fun with standard L keys at times.
Jerry
I wonder how they compare functionally to hex bits on. Breaker bar. I have an old 1/4 drive breaker bar, and bit set, and think that setup would work as well as the hex pro except for instances where clearance may be limited. So far, that has suited my needs, at a lower price.
T
Recently picked up the Bondhaus set at local supplier. Used a couple a few times but more as a trial by fire than requirement. Fit behind airbox of a 964 to loosen a bracket mount a bit easier than a small 1/4 ratchet and bit socket. They were a wash vs a rat/socket on a 1.8t coolant manifold. Useful enough to keep em parked in drawer next to the micro hex/torx sets for sporatic use. I can think of a couple w/p’s that these may decrease R/R angst. Overall quality is acceptable but not on par with Bondhaus’s regular offerings, imo.
glenn
Standard allen keys and a set of in-hex sockets are all I use and need.
I can see these being handy in certain situations but not handy or useful enough for me personally to buy a set.
Allen
I have to cut the buggered up end off my hex keys often enough I don’t think I would want these.
Stuart
What do you use your hex keys for that they frequently become damaged enough for the tips to be cut or ground off?
fred
Stubby Hex Keys (subject of a prior ToolGuyd post) would seem to have a slightly different use and value.
Allen
Old rusty farm equipment, frequently bathed in various manures.
Many times I have to heat the set screw up, then I imagine the temper goes out of the hex key. I have some “T” wrenches where the popular ones are half as long as the others.
Jerry
Allen, I do maintanence on rusty farm equipment as well, and there are a couple tricks that help bust loose those rusty lock collar set screws on a manure spreader.
First, use penetrating oil of some sort, or just as good, a half half mix of acetone and ATF. Find a punch that reaches to the bottom of the hex recess without buggering the corners of the set screw. Whack it several times with a hammer. The larger the set screw, the better this works. Don’t worry about hitting too hard. If you dent the shaft with the bottom of the set screw, just file or Emory cloth it smooth. Small price to pay to be able to get it loose.
For smaller set screws, or ones not terribly rusted in, use a bit socket in a breaker bar, bent at a right angle, and tap on it with a hammer, like you are trying to hammer it deeper into the set screw. There even is a special tool just for this, that fits into an air hammer, available with a 1/4 inch hex socket, or a 1/4 or 3/8 square drive on it. You pop on whatever drive bit you need, and hammer away. A handle allows you to apply torque to loosen the set screw. It needs a lot of space to use, but they really work good.
Lastly, if you need to apply heat, first try heating only the set screw. Set the torch HOT, and concentrate the heat to the bottom of the set screw. Try to get the set screw red hot as quickly as you can, while keeping the surrounding part as cool as you can. Often, when it cools, it will shrink enough it can be busted loose. You will pull the temper out of the set screw, but not your wrench.
Good luck, hope this helps some.
Allen
All good tips. Probably the biggest mistake I make is not cleaning the set screw out well enough to get a good bite with the wrench.
A little time with the pick so the wrench will seat down further makes a difference.
Most of the bad ones I just go straight to the torch and cut the lock collar off. It never pays to save anything that badly rusted anyway.
Hang Fire
As I repeatedly harp on, modern automotive tools are all about (lack of) clearance and (lack of) access. Yes, these are special purpose tools and not everyone will need them, but in certain circumstances they can be a big time-saver. For most folks, yes, they are the last tool you’ll need.
R Price
Swiss made PB brand although a bit pricey are the very best Allen’s you can buy.
JoeT
PB Swiss keys are not remotely close to being the best Allen keys out there. PB Swiss makes some very nice stuff, but their Allen keys leave a lot to be desired.
BikeRadar conducted random sample tests a few years ago comparing 12 different makes of standard metric Allen keys versus each other. Their tests measured manufacturing tolerances using a Mitutoyo digital caliper by comparing stated hex key sizes versus actual measured size of the keys.
PB Swiss keys measured near the bottom of the 12 makes tested. Overall, their keys measured 10th best out of 12 as far as actual measured key size versus stated key size. Their average error versus stated spec key size was 3-4 times greater than Bondhus keys (Bondhus keys overall measured as the most accurately manufactured).
The top 4 hex key makes as far as least variance in measured size from stated key size were Bondhus, Wera, Stahlwille and Wiha. PB Swiss stuff lasts, but if the keys are not built to exacting specs (they’re apparently not), who cares how long a mediocre tolerance Allen key lasts? It’s crap right out of the box to begin with.
Bondhus keys that cost 1/3rd the price of PB Swiss were measured significantly closer to actual stated spec size. Price does not always guarantee quality. BMW is a perfect example of that.
Stuart
I’ve had problems with Bondhus hex keys not fitting high quality USA-made fasteners before, but I’ve never had issues with PB Swiss hex keys so far.
Owning both Bondhus and PB Swiss hex keys, Bondhus is my default recommendation. If anyone is thinking of spending more on PB Swiss, find a way to try them first – that’s what won me over back when Amazon and Small Parts were clearing them out at deep discounts. I liked them and bought more.
Jared
I would skip these and use one of my bit wrenches instead. I have short, long, flex, comfort handle, etc, versions, so I can’t imagine a fastener where these would work better.
A related tool I use often is the Felo smart handle that holds screwdriver bits and converts to a T handle – awesome tool! Its quick and easy to use and can be a real time saver.
I have the kit with magnetic socket drivers, but holder, bits etc. Its fantastic for auto or motorcycle work. It can hold bolts/nuts when reaching into the engine bay, but the special trick is the spring-loaded magnet that retracts into the shaft so you can tighten nuts onto the threads.
Using it as a screwdriver until things get tight, then switching to T handle mode is super convenient. The caveat is that space above the fastener is required.