iFixit, the company behind electronics repair guides, tools, and accessories, has launched their very first powered tool – a USB-C powered cordless soldering iron.
There’s so much to talk about because – in no uncertain terms – iFixit has broken the mold in so many ways.
First, iFixit designed the tool and power station to be repairable. They even have schematics for the circuit boards.
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Parts diagrams – which will be available shortly – provide replacement part numbers for every component.
I am told that:
This is a repairable tool! We will be posting a full repair manual, circuit schematics, and selling repair parts for the Power Station and Smart Iron on release day.
That’s all very impressing, considering the disposable nature of a lot of cordless battery-powered tools these days. But beyond that, the new iFixit cordless soldering iron is also extremely flexible.
The cordless soldering iron is perfectly matched to iFixit’s also-new portable power station.
As how it’s powered via USB-C cable, you can also power it via USB-C PD charging adapters.
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Kyle Wiens, iFixit’s CEO, recommends that the 100W soldering iron be powered with at least a 15W charging adapter. He also says they designed their 65W GaN charger for desktop use without the battery power station.
iFixit did a great job with the soldering iron. I haven’t had too much time with the review sample they sent over (thank you!!), but in a single word it’s glorious.
The soldering iron temperature is preset to 350°C (660°F). If you want to set it differently, you can use the FixHib power station dial or plug it into your computer and access the iron’s settings via a Chromium browser-compatible web interface.
In their research, iFixit found that users almost never change the temperature of their soldering irons – “they pick a flow rate they like and stick with it.” This gave iFixit “the confidence to remove the temperature setting from the iron itself.”
Even so, you have the option to adjust your soldering iron via the portable power station or computer web interface.
iFixit says that their soldering iron was “made to last,” to help keep you fixing things for years to come.
Additional features include a built-in gyroscope for fall protection, fast heat-up time (less than 5 seconds), and replaceable tips.
The FixHub portable soldering station features dual-port USB-C power delivery with 100W combined output, and has a built-in 55 Whr Li-ion rechargeable battery. It can double as a power source for other USB-C tools or for charging electronics.
iFixit’s product documentation is top-notch, something that shouldn’t have surprised me, given how iFixit specializes in clear user-friendly guides.
FixHub Smart Soldering Iron Features & Specifications
- 100W power
- Factory preset to 350°C (660°F)
- Adjustable tip temperature, from 100°C to 420°C
- USB-C power delivery (15W minimum recommended)
- Safety cap
- Fall detection
- Auto standby
- Illuminated ring for heat indication
FixHub Portable Soldering Station Features & Specifications
- 55 Whr built-in battery
- Delivers 8 hours of soldering on a single charge
- USB-C PD
- 2 ports with 100W combined max output
- Built with repairability in mind
The full kit comes with the power station, soldering iron handle, cap, bevel tip, and locking USB-C cable.
Pricing: $80 for the soldering iron, $250 for the kit
ETA: October 2024 (preorders are open)
Discussion
I really think that “glorious” is an appropriate description for what iFixit has built here – the iFixit cordless soldering is so much better than I had expected and hoped for.
What really thrills me is that iFixit didn’t just create a cordless soldering iron, they laid down the framework for a system.
The new tool and power station are portable, repairable, and iFixit went the extra step to ensure they don’t lock you into a system. You get true USB-C PD compatibility.
It’s the little things that impress me. You can adjust the temperature via the power station OR with the web interface. This means users on a tighter budget can still access the iron’s full features.
I tested the web interface via https://www.ifixit.com/fixhub/console , and it worked exactly as described. I didn’t have to download any app, I didn’t have to register an account, I didn’t have to provide any personal details – it just worked.
There are other settings too – you can tweak things like the idle temperature and timer, sleep timer, unit preference, and also set temperature correction if you choose to calibrate your iron.
The build quality seems quite good. I have only spent some time with the soldering iron and power station thus far, but I haven’t encountered any issues yet. I think that its portability is definitely going to come in handy, as my current AC-powered soldering station isn’t easily moved between workspaces.
It really seems like iFixit’s product team developed a product for their own needs and wants, which is the best kind of approach a company can take. They also mentioned spending a lot of time talking with end users. Still, this seems like a tool they will actually use themselves, which isn’t always the case with other brands.
I can’t wait to see what they come out with next!
Questions?
iFixit’s CEO said that he, their lead tool designer, and product engineers will be available to answer questions, and he’s already answered quite a few via email and also publicly.
If you look on the iFixit site, you’ll see some of the user questions that the CEO has been answering. Many cordless power tool brands could learn from Kyle and iFixit’s example. Imagine that, a company whose leadership actually interacts with their customers.
I have been building up a list of questions to ask. Let me know if you have any questions to add to my own!
Chris
This looks like a home run! Already having a nice AC soldering iron and doing most of my work at the bench, I don’t see buying one anytime soon, but if I started doing more mobile work or mine takes a dump, I’d be all in. I’d love to see companies release more “open source” tools that are both repairable and modular. Alas, we’ve seem to have gone the opposite way, locking you into a system, planned obsolescence, no repair parts available, or available at a price point that makes repair not worthwhile, etc.
My only concern would be if the tips are unique to ifixit and how long they’ll support it. I’ve had a unit or two, fully functional, deemed useless because the manufacture stopped producing tips/heater cartridges.
fred
If the unit performs well and lasts, it seems like a good buy. I may buy one for gifting this Christmas.
I don’t do much if any soldering – and have enough corded options to handle any of my potential needs. But in 2021, I bought a cordless one on Amazon to give as a gift. The recipient told me that it worked well with some of the tips supplied – but not with others. Then – by next Christmas, I was told that it had died completely. Maybe I had bought a bad apple – because most reviews seem positive. Maybe there are different models, and I bought a lesser one – but here’s the current listing:
https://www.amazon.com/UY-CHAN-Programmable-Pocket-size-Acceleration/dp/B01MDTO6X7
JoeM
Yikes. I see that one a lot. It’s the knock-off baby brother to the one made by hundreds of other companies. That one is the TS101, the one you really wanted to get them was the TS150. It’s often sold out, but it’s the better one. Bonus: It’s got an identical power connection and requirement. It’s the answer to all the problems the 101 had.
But you had the right idea, Fred! I’ve been drooling over a TS150 for a couple years now, and they’re just always sold out. They’re USB powered, like the iFixit model, but they aren’t as picky about how they get their USB power. Adam Savage rigged up a soldering station with a TS150 as the iron, attached to a knock-off DeWALT DCB091 12V USB power Supply Clip, and the capacity to use his many, many, DeWALT 12 and 20V batteries (even FlexVOLT ones) to power the station itself, including the iron.
Best part of this is… You don’t need to buy the entire kit, the TS150 comes as just the iron, and you can buy the same tips as you bought before, or just let them reuse the tips they have. The iron itself will improve performance across the board with the same system.
Well done, good sir! Well done!
Todd F
It seems they are using TS80-style replaceable tips. Not a bad move since they are easily available on the usual places. JBC-style tips would have been a better choice albeit more expensive.
Nick
I’m not clear on the Iron vs. the Station. Is the Station merely the addition of a USBC battery pack and a dial to adjust temperature? Could one utilize the iron wirelessly with an off-the-shelf battery pack and the web interface for temperature changes?
Basically, I have several USBC battery packs for phones, etc. Any reason I can’t just buy the iron and use those to power it?
MM
The “station” contains not just the battery but also the “brains” of the operation, specifically the electronics that monitor the tip temperature and then adjust the power output from the battery to maintain that temperature. The iron is just the handle and the tip. The web interface communicates with the brain inside the base station, the iron is useless without it. You could probably DIY a solution using other battery packs but you’d need to make or buy something to act as the base station.
Tim+E.
I believe this is incorrect, the iron can be used on its own (and is sold as such, a “bare” option), it comes with the locking USB-C cable, but that cable can be plugged in to any USB-C PD power supply or battery bank. So you wouldn’t need the base station if you already have batteries, you just would lose the temperature control dial piece.
MM
I have not used this exact product, but I have a lot of experience with base-station type soldering irons. Normally the iron is just a heating element with some kind of temp sensor inside (thermocouple, thermistor, RTD, ec.). Without some kind of controller in between the battery there is no way to set or control the temperature, it would just run at full power 100% of the time, running much too hot, perhaps even burning itself out.
Operating this iron without the base station would be like trying to drive a car with the throttle pinned wide open and the transmission permanently locked in gear.
MattT
From the iFixit website:
—100W power
—Factory Preset 350°C (660°F) for optimal soldering
—Adjustable tip temperature between 100°C and 420°C using the FixHub Power Station or the Web Interface
The base station adds convenience, but is not necessary for using the iron.
MM
@MattT
I’ll dig a bit deeper into it when I have a bit more time, it should be easy enough to confirm where the temperature controller is located if Ifixit provides schematics.
MM
Matt and Tim, you guys were exactly right, I looked at the schematics on Ifixit’s site and the iron does contain a temperature controller so it can operate on its own. That is a nice feature, totally uncharacteristic for most irons.
Fowler
The controller for the iron functions is in the handpiece on this setup. Quite nontraditional, but the more I think about it, the more it seems like a good idea. The station is really just acting as a power supply and control UI. You don’t actually need the base station at all, and can configure the iron’s temp and other settings with a PC.
The advantage to me is that you can use the base station for max power and a standard soldering station UI, but then take the handpiece with you for portable work, already configured.
If you want all the details, check out the hackaday article on it
carl
It’s basically a simplified Pinecil in some respects, since the Pinecil has a display and all the controls on unit.
I have a Pinecil, but I’m really interested in this.
John S
Given that it can be run from a power brick, I would imagine the only issue is whether or not your battery pack can supply enough power. But the article does say it will work on as little as 15W.
Stuart
It will work with as little as 15W, but I think you’ll probably want at least a 45W to 65W power source.
I was told that soldering with less than 15W is possible, but unrealistic since the heat flow will be too slow.
fred
The last bit of soldering that I had to undertake was during the pandemic – and on some copper flashing. Might have done it in place with a torch – but easier and safer (no risk of catching the roof on fire) to prefabricate the piece on the bench. I chose an American Beauty iron (3198LT-550) to get the job done. I don’t own a voltage control unit for this iron – so it was plug it in, wait for heat up – then watch how the solder was flowing.
When I learned about lead caulking as a plumber’s helper – the temperature control was leaving a piece of solid lead floating in the solder pot and another one in the ladle. Electronics back then mostly relied on vacuum tubes – and I was a teenager when the first transistor radio was introduced. So, a practical electronically controlled soldering iron was many years off. Plumbers and roofers back then often used solid-copper soldering irons that were heated over coals or in a gas-fired oven – periodically returned to the oven when they cooled. This style of “cordless soldering iron” is still available.
https://www.stortz.com/product-category/roofing-tools/soldering/soldering-hand-irons/
Stuart
The soldering iron can be used with ANY sufficiently powerful USB-PD power source.
The power station is a sophisticated battery bank with temperature readout and control knob.
You can use the soldering iron by itself. With the power station, you get cordless operation, readout of the temperature sensor, and tip temperature control.
When used with a different power source, there’s an LED indicator ring that tells you when the soldering iron is heating up, at its preset temperature, cooling down, and safe to touch.
Your experiences will vary depending on the power source, but you are NOT locked into using the power station.
Julian Tracy
Wonder if Dewalt’s new power supply with USB-C will power this? That might be a better way to spend the $$ for folks on the 20v platform. Be pretty simple to work up a holder.
Stuart
This one? https://14cyiuhvcgv.com/dewalt-usb-charging-kit-dcb094-review/%3C/a%3E%3C/p%3E
It should!
Jared
That’s fun. Might be a reason for me to get the iron. I’m satisfied with my 120v setup, but very occasionally I wish it were mobile.
Karlen
A few years ago now I bought a usbc portable soldering iron, the Ts80p, and I have been extremely happy with it. I need my own power bank but it has was amazing to have something so small and portable when I was doing comercial low voltage installations with XLR wiring. I particularly like that the display can be changed to left handed. But as mentioned, I rarely ever change the temperature so I don’t need the display except to see that it has gone to sleep front no movement or heated up (it similarly has a few second heat time and is programmable. ) my biggest annoyance I think is that the little stand it comes with while tiny and portable, it is not very stable. (to note, I fit the entire kit along with some additional accessories like a solder sucker, tip cleaner, and small players in a microphone zipper pouch. )
I really like the idea that IFixIt has here of making their own base station with a built in iron stand. It looks like the perfect setup to keep it small and portable like my existing one and still have a stable base for your workbench, whether permanent or temporary. I like the idea of a second usbc port as well for charging a device. I very well may have my work buy one to experiment with.
My questions would be:
I would be very curious to know if you could use that second usbc for a second iron?
Or maybe a future desoldering tool is in the works?
Also, if that’s the case, can the be different temperatures?
I also wonder if you can charge the station at the same time as using it?
Would it actually keep up charging if it had low battery or would it drain faster?
I know I could use this with my existing Ts80p iron, but would the dial work or do anything at all? That might be a way to have 2 operational irons at different temperatures.
For any interested, here is that iron I bought years ago and to this point has been one of my favorite install wiring tools I ever bought: https://a.co/d/9nAjnGi
MicahMc
I’m definitely in the market for one, though I don’t solder too much. Thanks for the sharing about this!
eddiesky
Nope. Newer solder (lead-free) requires a hotter, constant temperature. I’ve had the Weller cordless back in the day and always found that I needed more heat, constant heat, and multihand holder, with mat or such. Perhaps better than a butane solution, but I cringe when I see iFIXIT because the owner has an agenda: to be the only company with rights to repairing guides and tools. Weiner targeted Apple, then others, making money on pushing Right To Repair. (its one thing to getting legal locks removed on proprietary parts, controls, software…and another to be pushing “use our tools” exclusivity.)
Soon to be on Amazon under some weird naming for $50 or Alibaba/Aliexpress.
Robert
Eddiesky, this counter argument is very interesting. I’ve never heard of Ifixit. As a was reading Stuart, I was thinking this company either gets Right to Repair, or wants to be ahead of Right to Repair laws. But you seem to be saying they are riding Right to Repair somewhat nefariously. How? Can you give examples of “ to be the only company with rights to repairing guides and tools”.
That’s seems a general concept, not something they can patent or trademark. I don’t mean these questions in an hostile way, I’m genuinely curious. Seeing how companies gouge (e.g. car dealerships) on repairs and design so only can repair, I think RTR is long overdue, and coming. Thanks.
MattT
“…the owner has an agenda: to be the only company with rights to repairing guides and tools… …pushing ‘use our tools’ exclusivity”
Have a source on that?
They sell repair tools. And they publish a lot of free guides and videos for repairing things. Of course they’re going to use their own tools in their guides and point users to where they can buy those tools. Selling tools is how they afford to make the guides.
But I’ve never seen a guide say it can work with ONLY their tools, nor have I seen any call by iFixit for others’ tools or others’ guides being in any way disallowed.
Fowler
“I’ve had the Weller cordless back in the day and always found that I needed more heat, constant heat, and multihand holder”
I guarantee that this will work way, way better than an old cordless Weller. The cordless irons they have available now are 4.5W, 8W, and 12W, compared to 80-100W for all these USB-C irons. That translates into improved heat delivery and better performance in situations with high thermal mass
Stuart
So don’t use lead-free solder.
For my own projects, I moved from 60-40 to 63-37, and don’t intend to switch to lead-free without good reason.
fred
I assume that you take the obvious precautions when soldering.
Don’t use lead solder to repair items that will come in contact with
food or potable water
Do it in a well-ventilated area to avoid breathing in fumes
And/Or wear an appropriate respirator
Clean up any residual solder left on the bench or surroundings
Don’t eat, drink or smoke when soldering to avoid ingestion of lead
Wash your hands after your done
fred
I should add that I would not use lead solder to repair something like a tin whistle or anything that might end up in the mouth of a child or any other animal (including adult humans) – nor to repair anything that would be used in food storage or preparation,
MM
Like Stuart I use lead solder whenever I can simply because it performs so much better. That said, I am talking about electronics applications, I do not use lead solder for plumbing or anything that might be around food or children. But sometimes the job has to be RoHS compliant, so the lead-free stuff is a necessary evil.
In my opinion the safety concerns are real but not particularly special; avoiding contact with food/water and practicing basic hygiene like hand-washing is standard for just about anything I might do in the workshop.
Stuart
Yep.
In my experience, lead-based solder means less flux, lower temps, easier work, and lead-free means requires more flux, higher temps, and greater skill.
iFixit sent along a coil of lead-free solder – I’ll give it a fair try to see if anything has changed.
Stuart
I use lead-based solder strictly for electronic components that will be sealed inside project boxes or similar.
I would NOT use the same solder for jewelry, plumbing, or any other applications.
I only solder in well-ventilated areas AND/OR I use a solder fume extractor. https://hakkousa.com/fa-430-smoke-and-fume-extraction-system-w-o-duct-kit.html / https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fa430.html
I solder over a protective mat, and I clean up afterwards. My tip cleaner and other such materials are stored out of reach of my kids.
I wash my hands after handling lead solder or anything that might have come into contact with lead solder.
Separately, I treat power cords, unknown plastic materials, and unknown metals as if they have lead.
I also went with lead-free PE-insulated wire for applications where I’ll be handling connections a lot, although only for certain sizes. The cost got too out of hand for higher gauges.
It’s my understanding that the rosin flux is a bigger issue when it comes to fumes and ventilation.
Lead-free solder needs to be handled with the same precautions. Soldering fumes are hazardous, regardless of the type of solder.
WastedP
iFixit has a repository of user-submitted repair guides. It seems to me like they are in the business of selling parts and tools, but the information is “free”. I’ve used their guides, and I’ve purchased their stuff. Nothing in that process smelled evil.
David Z
“but I cringe when I see iFIXIT because the owner has an agenda: to be the only company with rights to repairing guides and tools. ”
I have never, ever heard this, and it doesn’t make sense either logically or legally. You can neither stop people from writing their own guides, nor restrict people from using their tools to repair something.
“Weiner targeted Apple, then others, making money on pushing Right To Repair. ”
IFixIt has been a huge propent for RTR regardless of company. Yes, they make some money from the pursuit of this, but it benefits everyone. They don’t even have the largest or most thorough catalog of repair guides. That would be YouTube. They don’t address older or non-mainstream electronics, which is better supported by hobbyist sites and, again, YouTube. They also don’t cover things like cars, John Deere tractors, white goods, etc, etc.
“(its one thing to getting legal locks removed on proprietary parts, controls, software…and another to be pushing “use our tools” exclusivity.)”
They do not publish, nor do they require, guidance that requires their tools. In fact, every tool they sell, you can find identical, or largely similar, or better options on Amazon or other places. Even the tool this article is about could be considered a lesser device than something like the Pinecil, which allows controlling the device without a PC or custom battery pack.
I wonder, honestly, if your remarks are due to having been targeted by them for RTR, because they are quite derogatory and illogical.
Bonnie
Stuart, have you used any of the other USB-C soldering irons out there? I’m particularly interested how this compares to the Pinecil (which also seems quite easy to fix and sells cheap replacement parts, though not a circuit board diagram).
Stuart
I’ve looked at cordless soldering irons before, but never found any to be appealing.
I’ve never heard of Pinecil before, will look into it.
Chris S
I have the Pinecil and am wondering what the appeal is to the iFixit.
https://www.amazon.com/PINECIL-Smart-Mini-Portable-Soldering/dp/B096X6SG13
It’s good for up to 88 watts at half the price.
100-400C (the iFixit is 100-420C).
Has an interface on the body of the unit (so you can control it at any time while plugged into a wall wart or a battery bank).
The iFixit interface seems less convenient for sure.
W
Probably too late, but before I got wise to the, “this is just as good as a JBC or Metcal, huhuh!” BS of those who like to act like they are lords of the slum, I have been through 2 t100 and 1 of each generation of Pinecil that has just up and died, and all with very little use.
Furthermore, I have also come to the conclusion that 99.8% of things I need a portable soldering iron for, are, generally, on the big side of things. Battery wire, low gauge numbers, things of that nature. If it is something of intricate circuitry, its coming out off whatever is holding it, and going back to the bench to be put under the scope and have the Metcal: both iron and tweezers at the ready, hot air primed, etc… I am not making field repairs on SMD parts. And guess what things like the t100 and Pinecil are especially poor at? The big things, exactly. And, no, they absolutely cannot in any way shape or form touch a Metcal or JBC or Pace. Period. So what good are they? Not much. If you are really wanting to do soldering, don’t go through the frustration of dealing with the cheap junk that people like to con others into buying with them so they don’t feel so bad. Get yourself a used Metcal or JBC or Pace and have a good first experience.
Hopefully (and I am willing to bet they have) iFix it has been watching the t80s, t100s, Pinecils I, Pinecil II, etc… and have learned all the needed lessons, that combined with the fact we can get a lot of juice from USB-C PD, that this thing actually is worth putting in the tool kit.
MattT
This product is certainly getting a lot of gushing press right now. My two gripes at the moment are temperature control and price.
Controlling temperature without the base station requires plugging this into a pc or laptop to use the web interface, correct? Quite a strike against the portability of the tool.
$80 is crazy. $250 for the kit with station is crazier. Why would I buy this over a $26 dollar Pinecil that has the temperature controls right on the soldering iron? If battery life is the issue, I could buy two Pinecils so one can charge while using the other and still come out money ahead.
This is a cool tool, sure, and I’d probably use it if someone gave one, but I don’t see spending my own money on one.
Tim+E.
I think the draw here is more the repairability, at least for me. Being fair, I’ve been through a lot of irons and I travel with them in the electronics kit, which can be rough so affects their longevity. I got a Pinecil v2 after a TS101 died, primarily because they were supposed to have replacement casings available, and probably half the broken irons I’ve had were the casing breaking, the rest were “just didn’t turn on one day” type issues. The first iron I received was dead on arrival, wouldn’t turn on from the barrel jack or usb for any of a couple power sources I tried. Returned and replaced it, which wasn’t too bad if a bit slow. Second iron was fine at the start, but the usb stopped working for power after about 6 months, barrel jack lasted another 2, then even feeding power directly to the barrel jack pins on the board, it wouldn’t turn on. I decided to get a third just because of the price, and have kept it at home and it still works, so maybe they just can’t handle being banged around for travel. It’s unfortunate they don’t have the control boards available as replacement parts, I guess at a $25 iron cost it maybe doesn’t make sense. If the iFixit iron lasts any longer than 6-12 months, AND has replacement control boards for a reasonable price for when that inevitably fails, along with casings for a reasonable price, that may actually be more cost effective in the longer term than the pinecil.
That said, I do agree $250 for the station kit being high. $80 for the iron is maybe high compared to a pinecil, but not out of line with a TS101 for example. Yes it doesn’t have the screen like the TS101 or pinecil, but I’m personally okay with it being configurable on a laptop instead if needed. There’s a reason the TS101 is still $80 and the pinecil is $30, and the pinecil hasn’t completely cannibalized the market with its low cost.
Also, the pinecil doesn’t have an internal battery, so there’d be no reason to buy two pinecils so one can charge.
MattT
That’s one of the better reviews I’ve read on the Pinecil, and one of the only ones I’ve seen giving some long term experience. Also, a nice reminder on the importance of avoiding false economy in upfront savings. Has me rethinking my view on the iFixit unit.
“Yes it doesn’t have the screen like the TS101 or pinecil, but I’m personally okay with it being configurable on a laptop instead if needed. ”
This statement immediately raises a point I think needs to be clarified, because I’m not sure it has. (But then, I don’t always read things as carefully as I should if I’m in a hurry.) To use the web interface to control temperature, does the iron need to stay connected for the temperature to be maintained, or is it, as you say, configured, as in we can plug it in, set the temp, and then unplug it and use it at that temp until, say, it’s switched off? I strongly suspect it’s the former, but it would be a nice surprise if it’s the latter.
Tim+E.
Interesting, that is a clarification to re-check for me as well. My assumption was the latter rather than the former, that the web interface is used to set a new “default” temperature setting, which then applies every subsequent time the iron is turned on (i.e. If you set 300 on the web interface, then unplug the iron and plug it back in elsewhere, it would heat to 300 again, and 300 again, and 300 again, until you went in and changed the value to something else).
I’m also curious since this iron has a gyro if it can use it for a standby mode, that was something some of the TS irons had, but I don’t remember really getting it to work reliably. The pinecil supposedly supports it via adding a hall effect sensor, but I haven’t done that modification on mine so no experience there. Will have to dig through the info pages a bit more and actually read it more closely about this iron…
Stuart
It has a gyro for fall detection, but I’m not sure if it’s involved with standby activation.
Stuart
My understanding is that adjusting the temperature setting is basically writing to the firmware. It should be set and forget.
If you dramatically change your work or the type of soldering you’re using, you then change the tip temp.
You use the same USB-C connection for power or web interface settings. Computers won’t deliver the necessary power levels for satisfactory soldering performance. It should be disconnected from the web interface and computer prior to use.
I tested this just now – used the station to set the temp to 360°C.
Plugged it into the computer and the web interface shows 360°.
I now set it back to 350°C via the interface, and the power station now shows 350°C. Or at least I turned the knob one turn to the left and it went to 345°.
So yes, the settings are saved to the iron’s memory via either adjustment method.
MattT
Thanks for testing that, Stuart!
I was sure I’d read at least one review—can’t find it now, of course—that complained about the iron having to be tethered to a PC for temperature control, but that is clearly not the case.
Between this info and Tim+E’s comments, I am renouncing my original (clearly premature) stance that it costs too much for what you get and will give it more serious consideration. (The $250 kit will still be a harder sell, though).
CMF
Never heard of iFixit before. Checked their website, very nice repository of repair guides. I usually Google search for something I am repairing and sometimes need to go through a few sites before finding a decent guide. I perused the iFixit guides and they are quite decent, well laid out, and a pretty vast selection of items to fix.
I definitely saved it in my favorites.
As for the USB soldering iron, I have a middle of the road soldering iron, which takes care of the 1 or 2 times a year I need it, but if ever I get more into using a soldering iron, this one is surprisingly interesting, for all of the different reasons Stuart mentioned above.
I could see myself buying one if the need for a new and better soldering iron came up.
Matt
Hmmm. Interested. It’s pricy though compared to, as an example, the Milwaukee M12 iron. It is also a better form factor.
How does this compare to others on the market price vs performance wise? And yes I see that just the iron is available separately but not a big fan of piecing together a precision tool.
Stuart
It depends on what you’re doing.
This is like a mechanical pencil with 0.3mm precision tip, and the Milwaukee M12 is like a carpenter’s pencil sharpened with a utility knife.
MM
That is certainly true in terms of size, the Ifixit iron is much smaller and sleeker than the M12. But, I’d bet that the Ifixit stomps the M12 in terms of soldering performance.
There’s basically two ways the heater/tips work on soldering irons. The most basic system has a heating coil taking up a significant part of the handle of the iron and a plain solid metal tip attached. The heat is conducted from the heater along the tip. The M12 iron works this way, as do most of the ones that plug straight into a wall socket without a base station. These aren’t so good in my opinion. The Ifixit type, as with most other base-station irons, work differently. The heater is built directly into the tip itself. Instead of the heat being generated a couple inches back in the handle and then having to travel down to the tip the heat is generated exactly where it is needed, right at the tip. Watt-for-watt this kind of iron is much better than the previous type. The downside is the tips are more costly but I’d expect it to seriously outperform the M12 even on big stuff. 100 watts with pro style tips easily beats the 90 watt traditional style heater in the M12.
Matt
Thanks for this, I didn’t know they were made that way but I have seen the difference in real use and this makes sense. I would pay more for the pro style tip
MM
It’s easiest to visualize with the higher power irons. Consider that these two examples are both 250 watts:
https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Iron-250w-1000/dp/B007ICM8LM
https://www.jbctools.com/t470-a-heavy-duty-handle-product-1.html
The older style “American Beauty” brand has a massive heater in the middle and relies on the tip to conduct the heat towards it. Despite being much smaller the JBC is just as powerful–its heater is tiny and is embedded in the tip only a few mm behind the working end, so the heat has much less distance to conduct before it can do useful work.
The other difference is the older style irons tend to have a basic “bang-bang” thermostat to control the heater, this is quite slow to respond. The more modern or pro grade tools have a temperature sensor inside the tip itself and use PID control so they can react much faster to temp changes and maintain a more stable temperature. Imagine you’re tinning some stranded wires. As you feed fresh solder into the wire that lowers the temperature. A pro-style iron will detect this within a fraction of a second and instantly starts sending more power to the heater, maintaining temp even as you’re adding more solder. Likewise when you stop adding solder or you take the tip away from the work the iron will detect that and cuts power to prevent the temp overshooting. That doesn’t happen with the old-style iron. It will take quite some time for the thermostat in the middle of the heater to react to a temperature drop. And by the time it does you’re likely already done with that joint.
drewmcdan1
Question for IFixit: Given the focus of their company on electronics repair: What has been done to reduce or better yet eliminate stray or ghost voltage? Is there a grounding strap, or can the user create a do it yourself strap?
Lyle
I saw a review of this on YouTube. It looked nice, but very pricey if you get the whole kit. Even the iron is fairly expensive and has limited features compared to the Pinecil, TS100, TS101. I think if it had some local controls on the handpiece like the competition it would be much better so someone who doesn’t purchase the battery/station part doesn’t need to screw around with connecting a laptop to adjust temperature.
Joe H
Just for fun I’d be tempted to make a belt pouch for the power supply and holster for the soldering iron that gives it space for when it is hot and keeps the tip far enough away from my body. I wish more companies would make disposable battery integrated devices/equipment like this then I would actually be more inclined to buy things if I can replace the batteries myself. Until then, i try to make an effort to lessen my involvement in this throwaway culture. Thats why I applaud ifixit in their endeavors to make things repairable and longer lasting.
Chris S
You mention that it has a web interface for changing settings. Does that interface require an internet connection?
Christian
The iron has its settings asjusted via a serial port/protocol. The website gets access to the USB serial port on your computer to talk to the iron via the WebSerial interface in the browser. As a result while loading iFixits website may require an Internet connection, controlling the iron from either the browser or a dedicated application or normal serial console does not.
The website and WebSerial are here just an easy way to avoid shipping software for customers to install themselves. Firefox for example doesn’t support WebSerial due to security concerns I happen to agree with.
A W
Very cool!!
I noticed a small typo: “That’s all very *impressing” .
JoeM
I would be curious, genuinely, what their next USB-C PD device might be to go with this set. I can see three possibilities that would make this one of the best tools to have a kit of for home:
-A Ring Light/Magnifier with gooseneck support connector to the station.
-Solder and Smoke Vacuum with small solder capture vial to easily dispose of removed solder.
-Pinpoint Heat Gun for those who prefer a heat gun over an iron.
Otherwise… I only hate the fact that this makes me want this set even more now that I have seen your article… All those plans of getting the TS150 are out the window now. All those parts on wait lists? Oh well. One more set to drool over from iFixit, like I didn’t already want all of their tools already.
Jeff
I only solder in well-ventilated areas AND/OR I use a solder fume extractor. https://hakkousa.com/fa-430-smoke-and-fume-extraction-system-w-o-duct-kit.html / https://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fa430.html
I took a cooling fan from a junked PC and mounted a 9 volt battery to the fan case, added a miniature toggle switch and use this when I’m soldering, easy and portable.
Drew M
How good this thing is likely comes down to the tips it uses and I’m sad to say, I looked around and I could not find replacement tips or the type of tips used.
Stuart
There will be a selection of replacement tips available.