At this year’s National Hardware Show, Kreg introduced the Accu-Cut, an accessory that allows you to turn nearly any standard circular saw into a cross-cutting track saw.
The Kreg Accu-Cut consists of a universal sled, a pair of 26-1/2″ aluminum guide tracks, and a starting block that extends the length of the rails and prevent cords from snagging. The guide tracks have anti-splinter strips and can be connected end-to-end for cross cuts and angle cuts up to 48” long.
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The sled attaches to the base of the saw with couple of set screws, and I’m told it is the same base that comes with the Kreg Rip-Cut accessory we covered a few years back.
However, you can tell that a couple of pieces were added—an indicator to show how to position the sled on the rail for left- and right-blade saws, and an indexing stop that butts to the edge of the saw’s shoe. The stop is adjusted during the initial alignment and ensures that the saw is placed at the same location every time it’s installed on the sled.
The extruded aluminum rails are similar to those used with plunge-cutting track saws, with raised areas that mate with the sled and anti-splinter strips along either edge of the bottom.
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The first time you use the Accu-Cut, the saw blade will cut through the anti-splinter strip, trimming it to size. The anti-splitter strip helps to prevent splintering by pressing against the material at the edge of the cut. Once trimmed, the strip can be aligned with the cutline on the material, and you know that’s where the blade will go.
The bottoms of the strips are grippy enough to prevent the track from sliding on most materials, though when cutting slippery stuff like melamine it’s best to secure the track with optional clamps. If or when the strips wear out, they can be purchased from Kreg as replacement parts.
The Accu-Cut Circular Saw Guide (KMA2700) is scheduled for release in early July 2017 and will come with a universal saw sled, two 26.5” aluminum guide tracks, a starting block, two track connectors, and a track indicator clip.
Price: $80
First Thoughts:
If you can’t afford the $400-650 it costs to get a name-brand plunge saw with guide rails, then $80 for the Accu-Cut is a very good deal. All you need is a circular saw to use it with. The adjustable indexing stop makes it possible to remove the saw, use it without the guide and then quickly reattach it to the sled; the alignment is automatic.
If there’s a downside to Kreg’s system, it’s the limited length of the assembled rail, which is too short for ripping 8′ sheet goods. I asked a Kreg representative about this and he said that for now you would need to use their Rip-Cut edge guide (KMA2675).
They considered offering longer rails, but it would complicate shipping and in-store displays. Kreg has put more than two rails together and it worked for them in testing. If it seems like it will work for customers they may offer rails and joining pieces for separate purchase, but no decision has been made yet.
It would be great if the option existed to make straight accurate cuts by joining three, four, or more rails, because it would make for a more portable setup. I would rather do this than use a rip guide, because rip guides can hang up on the edge of your work material, and they only work if one edge is already straight. On the other hand, rip guides can make it easier for repeated cuts, as you only need to set the fence once.
Assuming it won’t be possible to get longer Accu-Cut rails or join more than two of them together, then the next best thing would be to align a saw on the sled and switch back and forth between guide rails and the fence from a Rip-Cut. I’m told this will work because the sleds are the same; you’d simply have to adjust the cursor on the rip guide. It’s a reasonable solution in that it allows you to rip and cross-cut with a single saw and sled.
firefly
I like it. I would like to see a full review and feedbacks from users in the field. But definitely look to be well made.
By the way welcome David. Is this your first article on Toolguyd?
David Frane
Yes, it’s my first. I’ve been a fan of Toolguyd for a long time and am pleased to have the opportunity to work with them.
Stuart
Yes, and there is more on the way!
erik
Definitely buying this when it comes out. Been considering building my own track but can’t find the time, so this will be a day one purchase. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
fred
Looks interesting – and seems to offer a few features like anti-splinter strip that get it closer to a real track saw. With a high-quality (low runout) circular saw it should produce a good cut. Not exactly a plunge track saw but cheaper. Veritas has also come out with a saw/tool track system – but it doesn’t seem to give you the ability to position the track edge along the cut line:
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=75664&cat=51&ap=2
A homemade jig – made of Masonite and a straight-edged length of 1x stock is very easy to make – and costs less.
BTW – the rail connection issue is one of my pet peeves with my Festool Track saw. The Festool connectors (482107) were $17 when I bought them ($19 today) – and in my mind they were not one of Festool’s better efforts. Even taking your time in the shop – using them and getting the rails to align properly and stay put through multiple cuts is a frustrating chore. In the field – setup on a lawn – it is a cause for much cursing. I ended up buying Festool’s 2700mm (8.8 foot) rail (491937) for $295 ($340 today). To the point that was made about concerns about shipping longer rails, after reading some horror stories from Festool users – I ended up ordering my long Festool rail from Amazon who shipped it via a small freight company – packed in a long crate made from oak and plywood. I still use the crate to store the rail.
fred
I should have also said that after I bought my FS 2700 rail – Betterley (the folks who make great laminate trim tools) came out with a connector for Festool rails. I haven’t tried one – but it sells for $99
http://www.festoolproducts.com/betterley-slc23-straightline-connector-for-festool-guide-rails.html
chris parker
i tell you what,i am pretty impressed..i already have a makita track, and i wish there was a decent saw adapter that would fit..well, maybe there is, and i just do not know..if you guys know of a decent one, let me know..otherwise, i think this looks pretty solid for the price..always love your post, and thanks…now if only bosch would hurry up and release the new colt router.. i have been waiting some time now.
Nathan
Color me intrigued. I’ve been looking at versions of this for a while since I have need of a tracksaw like device – but I don’t want to drop that coin. vs getting a new quality circ saw – multipurpose – a good blade – and a good collapsible guide system.
I need to be able to store the setup easily. I don’t have tonnes of space. I like their idea but I would like to get another track to join – or have them make another track size. LIke say a 47.5 or such. So you could have your 2 – 26’s and one 47. or whatever.
Good review
Adabhael
I was very intrigued by this post: just lat night my dad and I were discussing the need for a system like this. However, the limited length is a deal-breaker: I can pull down a shop-made 8-footer (like Fred describes) for the long cuts, but a 60″ sheet of Baltic Birch is the most common sheet good I need to break down in my work. I think adding a 47 would be better to avoid dealing with connectors, and allow a total 8′ length. We all manage to carry 48″ levels…
Also, I am trying hard not to be annoyed about this line:
Really? Governed by shipping and display, not users’ need? That strikes me like a DIY-level move right there: I cannot imagine a pro-brand would admit this, even if it were true.
Stuart
I think those are valid concerns. Costs would likely be high, and damage to a guide rail would likely affect accuracy, functionality , or both, leading to high returns and higher costs.
Demand for longer rails would be lower, leasing to higher costs even, and inventory that demanded more shelf or floor space.
All these things might potentially lead to cost prohibitive pricing.
It’s smart of them to gauge user interest and then possibly reconsider and work toward a solution in response, rather trying to tackle all the challenges at once.
I think this results in a nice complement- a rip guide for longer cuts, and this new system for 48″ cuts.
If a user really needs greater cutting capacity, there are other solutions, such as Festool’s.
I think my Festool guide rails came from Festool directly, as did some of my other Festool tool and accessory purchases, which would help to minimize the risk of damage due to improper storage or warehouse handling.
firefly
I am sure they are finding way to connect multiple rail together that still stay true.
I find that totally reasonable for the price point. Shipping a long long rail require a crate to protect it. Then there are a lot of risk of them to get damage during unpacking at the store so that will get added to the cost. In store display is a premium, unless it’s a hot sale, it’s hard to justify something with a odd shape that would require the rearrangement of other items that’s already there. As far as shipping it directly to the customer that’s even more expensive since that mean one crate per track. Now ask yourself, if there is a longer track version, how much are you willing to pay for it?
Again I am sure if this thing is selling like hot cake I am sure more place would be happy to stock them. Personally I don’t see this as a fast moving item. There will be enough demand for it but I doubt it’s enough to command premium instore display and special crate for the longer version.
Doresoom
The number one recurring comment I’ve seen is that they need to add longer rails. I don’t think accuracy will be an issue, even using 4 of the 26.5″ sections. I managed to get perfect accuracy out of mine after using a 4′ level to set up the connection, rather than using the manual’s method. Without using the level for setup, I determined my track had a 0.010″ bow across the 53″ length – not an issue for plywood cuts, but I was using mine for edge jointing stock for a panel glue-up. After readjusting I managed to get absolutely no gaps between two 50″ boards.
Blythe M
This is very interesting, but I won’t buy until there is at least a 48″ rail. It should sell with a 48, then the option to buy another 48. I might buy the 26 separately later for a shelving type project.
But there is no way I’m trusting the accuracy of 4 26″ pieces joined together
Doresoom
It’s pretty accurate – I had only 0.010″ bow across a 50″ board when setting up using the Kreg manual’s instructions. I tweaked it using a 4′ level as a guide, and managed to get perfectly straight lines out of it – good enough for a panel glue-up.
Johann
I have the Rip-Cut system, and I bought it specifically to save the money from a table saw. It works well, but you definitely need to spend a short amount of time familiarizing and dialing in. Once that is done, it works well as long as you can effectively hold the alignment across the entire piece.
For this product, I also feel that it’s use is limited without being able to go 8′. But, I can also see that the middle of that run will flex and ruin your cut if you aren’t careful. That track does’t look like it can be effectively secured over that distance without any clamping system.
I really do like that the sled is the same – and that may be enough for me to purchase it. I don’t take the sled off my saw today, and having an easy guide would be helpful in a lot of situations. But I’d like a lower price since I don’t need the sled.
Matthew Steele
That indexing stop looks interesting. I have the Kreg Rip-Cut, and my biggest gripe is getting the saw placed on the same exact spot on the plastic shoe, then clamped down precisely. It means the cursor is never precise, and it’s often not worth adjusting the cursor when I only have a few cuts to make. Besides, for this, it seems far easier to make a “doorboard” out of 1/8 or 1/4 plywood and a very straight edge glued onto it.
Jimmie
Years ago I made a sled and track using a 48″ aluminum miter slot. The sled has the corresponding 18″ miter bar. It’s fine for making precise, straight cuts when I’m too lazy to use the table saw but dust collection on non-Festool circular saws is virtually non-existent. 🙁
Big Adam
I really like this idea…………………………but can I have one in yellow?
😀
Tom
I love that it integrates with the Rip-Cut. I’ve had one for years and love it. For $80 though….. I’ll probably still buy it, but that seems the top of the price point for something like this.
Nathan
a few of the kit products I’ve seen – that come with everything like this does – cost more than that. They do however cover a full 8ft though.
And none of these have a anti-chip guide that I recall
David Funk
A lot of you are talking about 8 foot rails you really need about a 10 foot rail. You need an extra foot to start need a good 6 inches at the finish and then if you want to do any kind angle cut on A 4×8 sheet you’re going to needs little more. This coming from a track saw user. Just my 2 cents.
fred
The Festool long rail is 2700mm – or 8.8 feet and it gets the job done because you plunge the saw. With using a circular saw a foot to star and a foot to follow-through on the cut – as you say – would be better.
Grant
Isn’t this the same as the Bora system. Except the Bora system is expandable, can cut a 8′ sheet and is cheaper?
By comparison it doesn’t seem like a good deal.
fred
Maybe.
The Bora Guide get some pretty awful reviews on Amazon (50% as 1 star)
https://www.amazon.com/Bora-542001-Clamp-Track-Circular/product-reviews/B0045UBFR8
and Stuart recently responded to a post of mine saying that his experience with the Bora rails/clamps was not so good.
Woodcraft also sells an alternative system – a base #149146 ($32.50) that lets your saw ride along a track (2 x 56 inch with a connector sold as kit #150006 for $79.99.)
john
Can you confirm if this updated guide can be used with the M12 and M18 circular saw without modification?
John
So, is it any better than the Makita guide?
fred
Does Makita make a guide that works with various circular saws?
The one I know about (#196953-0) costs $56 on Amazon and works with their 6-/12 inch cordless saw (XHS03). You need a rail to go with it – the Makita 194367-7 rail is 118 inch long – sells for about $284 on Amazon ($210 at Tool Nut) – or you can buy two 55 inch rails (194368-5) for $70 each at Amazon – and add a connector (P-45777) for $27 at Amazon
Alien
If Kreg were smart (and I don’t mean to imply they’re not)…..the saw sled would be universal – which they’ve done, and they’d offer one-piece tracks in 48-50″ and 96-98″ leaving it to the customer’s decision as to which best suits their needs.
Would 96-98″ tracks be a PITA to stock and ship, and and carry around, plus potentially cause a warranty issue if they were damaged in shipment? Certainly, and I’m sure the selling price would reflect those additional costs and still be hugely less than Company X’s tracksaw system.
Were they available, I would not hesitate to buy at least one additional saw and attach a sled to it permanently for use with the tracks, and make a protective carrier out of 1/2″ or 3/4″ plywood or 1X stock and a piano hinge to safely carry a long track. The value of being able to make long, straight cuts without a table saw would be of sufficient value for me to get a full set of guides. And, note, “long, straight cuts” does not necessarily mean “parallel to the factory edge,” which is where the Company X track system outclasses a table saw. I can set up any degree of angled cut (eg., non-parallel cuts) on panels with the track system in seconds, doing it with a table saw takes at least several minutes and extra hands.
Rock Hound
This is a pretty slick looking setup. I hope that you get one of them to review.
RedShirt
Wow! There’s already a four star review on it on the Kreg site. (Smirk!)
Hep
I would steer clearof this- I have the Kreg Rip Cut circular saw guide; https://14cyiuhvcgv.com/kreg-rip-cut-circular-saw-guide/%3C/a%3E .
The clamping mechanism is junk. This system uses the same clamp – its crap and WILL break.
Save your money and get something better.
-Hep
Andrew
I absolutely love this and I’ll be searching Home Depot’s website regularly for it to hit shelves. But a couple of thoughts from my couch….
1) Shipping and displays are big deals for producers and retailers. Shelf space is limited, more than ever before, and shipping is a major expense these days, especially since more and more companies are eating those costs to increase business. Somebody mentioned something about a “pro brand” not doing this, which brings me to my next point.
2) Kreg isn’t a “pro” brand. And watch any woodworking video on YouTube that includes pocket holes, you’ll see the smug, pompous, snarky comments about “amateur hour.” Kreg is a very good, reliable company that produces some very, very good and useful products. And while there are certainly parts of their line that belong in the belts, pouches and trucks of skilled tradesmen and women, at the end of the day, the brunt of Kreg’s line is geared toward the weekend-warrior/DIY type. Types like myself who have limited time, limited space and limited tools (though, my now former CEO/CFO will dispute the latter). Their products make woodworking simple, time efficient and approachable for beginners. And that brings me to ….
3) A lot of people are complaining about the size limitations. But go to Home Depot or Lowe’s on a Saturday morning and swing by the panel saw. You’ll find a line of younger people, couples, first-time home owners, etc waiting for somebody to break down a 4×8 or 4×4 sheet of 3/4 ply to sizes that will fit into their Prius or whatever. They’re not going home with stacks of 4×8 sheets to build entire cabinet sets (….yet); they’re trying to have the store cut as many of the pieces to their Pinterest-inspired project as they can and at home, they’ll use their consumer-grade circular or jig or handsaw to do the final pieces. For those people, this will be an immense upgrade from using a big rafter square, an extra 1×4, or even the Kreg Rip Cut.
Those are the things that immediately popped into my head when I saw this: it’s great for people like me, who don’t have full-blown shop space and only do projects occasionally.
That’s also the one flaw I’ve found with Kreg: a lot of their items are priced above the level of consumer they’re geared towed. Yes, the basic pocket hole jig at $40 is a tremendous deal (especially if the clamp is included); but the HD jig, the bigger jigs, this, the etc… priced a little higher than one would think.
I love it. I can’t wait to get my hands on one.
fred
Your points are well taken.
Of course Kreg tools (and some other brands too) get touted – almost shamelessly IMO – on PBS TV shows like the American Woodshop – with Scott Phillips (WBGU). That not to say its a bad thing entirely – because like Norm Abrams and others on TV shows, Scott has probably introduced thousands to the joys of woodworking. Its just that you should know that there may be better work methods and tools available – sometimes at different price points (lower or higher.) Another PBS show (Woodsmith Shop) often suggests how to make and use homemade jigs suited for hobbyists.
BTW – while I’m not a pocket-hole joinery aficionado, they have simplified face frame construction – and made lots of joinery in reach of budget-minded and many other home woodworkers who might otherwise not undertake a project because mortise and tenon or other joinery was out of their skill set or too costly to undertake.
RedShirt
I’m pretty new to woodworking, about a year as a DIY-er. I’ve observed that people are very polarized regarding Kreg products, especially when it comes to pocket hole joints. Being new, I really have no preference. If it makes it easier, then I’m good with it.
fred
Traditional joinery included hand or machine cut mortise and tenons, doweled joints, dovetails, bridle joints, lap joints and dados to name the most common. Glued butt joints were eschewed because they were inherently weak. Adding long screws did not help much – because screwing into end grain is not as strong as screws into cross grain. Then taking an idea from toe-nailing the pocket hole was invented – with screws at an angle pulling the joint together. I made not only joinery simpler – but measuring less fussy – because you were essentially butting the joints together – with no need to figure for depth of overlaps, length of tenons etc. Dowels and loose tenons also made joinery faster – but required more skill, jigs and/or machinery to do effectively. My Festool Domino machine – as an example – has changed the way I work – but nobody would claim it was an inexpensive joinery tool.
Why pocket hole joinery gets used in face frames – is that its fast – strong as it needs to be for something that isn’t subject to a lot of stressing forces – and the pockets are concealed from view. Building a table entirely with pocket hole joinery – is possible – but you may need to be clever to conceal all the pockets and the skirt board to leg connections might not be as strong as you would get from mortise and tenon joinery.
For purists – the hyde-glue afficainados – guys who adhere to traditional hand tool techniques (a la the Woodwright’s Shop TV Show) – the use of screws is anathema. My own thought is that pocket hole joinery has its place – and if it lets you build a table (as an example) versus building no table – why not try it out – see how the table fares – then see what you want to learn and do for the second or third table that you build.
Andrew
If I were retired, didn’t have family obligations, etc — and, most importantly, if money were no object — I would love to sit at a beautiful , hand-crafted workbench in a spacious, climate-controlled shop and carve out hand-cut dovetails all day. But, because I work for Satan, have a soul-sucking ex and my shop is cluttered with boxes of crap, I’ll gladly turn to a $40 pocket hole jig to slap together a shop-class level bookshelf in a rare free hour of shop time.
fred
Even when you are retired – sold-up your businesses – are very well off financially – your time is still very precious – perhaps even more so as you realize that there may be so little of it left. Speaking from experience in this matter – you try to use tools that are practical, within your skill level, are appropriate to what you wish to accomplish and are conservative of your time. Nothing at all wrong carving, hand sawing or chopping dovetails if that’s how you wish to spend your time – but the last ones I did, for some cabinet drawers for my daughter’s basement, was with my old Porter Cable Dovetail jig and a router – and the face frames on those cabinets used pocket hole joinery.