Lee Valley has launched a new Veritas knife for someone else to buy you.
Officially called a “Hacking Knife,” the new Veritas knife is advertised as being “exactly the type of knife everybody wants but will not buy for themselves.”
I think the phrase “workshop knife” is a little softer, but the name doesn’t matter much given that it looks like a mini cleaver.
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The blade is made from 3/16″ thick A2 steel, with the edge ground to a 24° angle. Its handle scales are made from anodized aluminum. Lee Valley is bundling it with a leather belt sheath.
Lee Valley says that their new knife is “meant to be beaten,” and they include product images showing the knife being whaled on with a hammer.
It can be used for cutting, splitting, or carving tasks.
This is basically a beater knife with a thick blade and long flat cutting edge. Lee Valley doesn’t mince any words in describing this as a tool for crude use.
I appreciate that Lee Valley’s not pretending this is some kind of precision cutting tool, although I suppose it could be, depending on what you use it for.
Price: $85
COO: Made in Canada
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Their assessment is also spot-on – this is something I could definitely use, and while I’m fond of Veritas tool and blade steel quality, I can make do with something a lot cheaper for miscellaneous chopping, splitting, and cutting tasks where finish quality doesn’t matter.
This is the kind of tool where one’s need for it becomes apparent in time – or doesn’t.
I think they could or should have also beveled the front edge, turning it into a chisel knife. After all, the knife blade is made from the same steel as their chisel and plane blades.
The Mora Chisel Knife, which is currently under $16 at Amazon, comes to mind as a less expensive alternative.
John N
Looks like the Veritas has a double bevel edge, So the leading edge couldn’t really be honed to a chisel edge, since it wouldn’t have a flat back.
I do like the possible utility of this knife, and agree a chisel edge would add usage to it. Not sure how much cutting ability would be lost if it was a single bevel edge all the way around.
dXe
I have the Mora Chisel. It works great for most of those kind of tasks.
Old Suburban Dad
Same.
I collect camping knives and pocket knives, and the Mora chisel is one of my favorites
MM
I think this style of knife is very useful around the workshop. It’s a scraper, it’s tough enough split and to pry with it, it should have enough heft to chop like a cleaver. I like the orange color is easy to see.
I’m not a fan of the aluminum scales aside from the fact that they look nice. Aluminum is OK for a pocketknife but not something I would leave in a toolbox or out on a workbench. Aluminum can be uncomfortable to pick up in hot or cold weather, it’s also easy for an accidental nick in the handle to form a sharp burr which then has to be filed off. It’s also nice for a striking tool to have a handle that is at least a bit soft so it transfers less shock to your hand.
I’d rather the knife be slightly larger and have G10 scales, or some kind of quality plastic or rubber, with an aggressive texture.
Jared
2 more inches of blade length and it would make way more sense as a chopper and be more useful for battoning. This seems like an oddly short knife for something so heavy-duty.
MM
Right on, give it a couple inches more length, and make it a little wider as well, ideally enough so you have knuckle clearance chopping over a flat surface.
In my opinion a knife like this ought to be able to cut that piece of rope, a piece of rubber hose, or similar in a single chop without the need for batoning.
The Silky Nata seems to fit the bill pretty well. It doesn’t have knuckle clearance but I bet it’s a much better chopper.
Jared
That’s an interesting one! I hadn’t seen the Nata before – much more in line with what I was thinking.
It’s too bad because I’m sure the Veritas is good quality, I just can’t see what niche its trying to fill. A few tweaks and it could be good in many different roles, but as-is? Well, it would probably still be fine, just not the perfect choice for any one task.
Robert
Stuart, I received an e-mail about this knife from Lee Valley. Was hard to see the utility, your explanation helped. But it still seems too much of a jack of all trades, master of none, to be worthwhile. For example, LV has a dedicated wood splitter that seems much better for that task:
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/log-building-tools/wedges/41142-spiral-splitting-wedge?item=33U2301
This hack knife seems better suited to shave off kindling, than really splitting wood.
KokoTheTalkingApe
Yes, though it’s also better for splitting wood than a single-bevel chisel grind knife like that Mora. It might be good for splitting off small pieces of wood, where you don’t need the leverage of a froe.
fred
We had similar knives from C.S. Osborne
https://csosborneindustrialtools.com/product/chipping-knife-no-337/
My old inventory says that we bought the last ones in 1983 for about $25 each. The guys used them for lead work – like trimming corners on shower pans.
For splitting wood – one might think more about baton knives, froes or froe-knives.
KokoTheTalkingApe
Thanks fred! Baton knife? A bit of googling doesn’t show me much. They’re made specifically for batoning?
And what. Is a froe-knife? That sounds exciting and something I’d want to own!
Jared
I don’t know any knives designed exclusively for batoning, although the Buck 108 Compadre Froe comes to mind. It’s more of an attribute of longish, thick knives intended for rough outdoor use.
If you want a suitable knife for not a lot of coin, perhaps the SRK CS-49LCK?
You can baton even with a Swiss Army Knife (fold the blade 90-degrees to the handle first, so you don’t ruin the back spring), but those blades are thin and short, so you’re likely limited to stock that’s MAXIMUM 1.5″ or so.
The issue with this Veritas knife is that it’s thick-enough and has a blade profile that seems like it could baton – but it’s not long enough to have the tip poke out the other side so you can whack it.
Craig A from NJ
Ha, I have that wedge that you linked, but I didn’t recognize it right away in the photo because it has all it’s paint! Mine has lived outside for 10 years and works great. Rarely gets stuck, hasn’t mushroomed at all and doesn’t really rust. It sort of has a patina on it. Recommended (if you’re in the market for a 50 dollar wood wedge).
Bonnie
$85 for a “beater knife” seems pretty insane. I like Veritas planes, their low angle jack is still one of my favorite woodworking tools, but this just seems like an overpriced piece of junk. I don’t need specialty tool steel in a beater, I could grab an old cleaver out of the junk drawer and be in basically the same place.
MM
A basic hatchet would do most of the same tasks too, and can be used as a hammer.
Jared
It’s not outlandish for what you’re getting, in terms of the materials. Whether you need this much knife as a beater… that’s another question.
KokoTheTalkingApe
I see it as a kindling splitter, when you don’t need the weight, size or leverage of a froe.
fred
Buck makes this – which is something between a machete and a froe – but pricey
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1016316943
I have a froe from Ray Isles that we used extensively in the Scouts
KokoTheTalkingApe
Thanks! So this is a froe-knife like you mentioned above?
Mike S
Typo here: “showing the hammer being whaled on with a hammer.”
Showing the *knife* being whaled on…
Stuart
Thanks! *fixed*. I spent a bit of time looking up whether it’s whaled, waled, or wailed, but messed up the easy part.
Jared
You made excellent points Stuart. When this came out they sent a promotional email. I like knives and Lee Valley, so I certainly gave it a look.
The problem I see though, is that it’s pretty short for a brute force knife, yet the thickness of the blade steel seems to imply that’s its intended purpose.
If I’m battoning, I want enough blade so that some sticks out on the other side. The photo shows it battoning smaller pieces – but then why do I need something 3/16″ thick?
If it’s for “hacking”, well that’s also a pretty short knife for chopping action. I suppose the weight might carry the day. Maybe that handle shape allows you to choke back and use a 2-3 finger grip?
It says it can be used for carving – but that’s a terrible blade shape for that. Plus it’s gigantic. You need some belly and a point, not a huge, heavy, thick piece of straight steel.
If it was intended as a knife for your wood-working shop, then a chisel grind makes more sense than the massive scandi.
Basically, I wanted to like it but I couldn’t actually figure out what I’d use it for. If I wanted a big bad indestructible knife – I’d want something longer. If I wanted a woodworking knife I’d want something lighter, smaller and with a different blade shape.
It’s probably not even a bad knife! It’s just that there’s nothing it seems like it would be best-suited for.
Andrew
Hacking knives were popular for removing traditional glazing putty from wooden window frames. The one available from Footprint tools in the UK is magic. Takes a razor sharp edge, leather handle. Very useful.
fred
CRL and Hyde make ones that they advertise for this purpose.
https://www.crlaurence.com/All-Products/Glazing-Tools-%26-Supplies/Sealants%2C-Adhesives%2C-Putty%2C-%26-Accessories/Putty-Knives/CRL-Heavy-Duty-Hacking-Knife/p/HK1
Amazon lists other knives that they advertise for use by glaziers:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PF8NB1S
When I started my working life in the early 1960’s – refurbishment of older glazing – with glass set in putty was still a big thing. But today – we seem to replace rather than repair most windows – except perhaps in historical restorations or in attempts to preserve stained glass or other interesting old glazing.
Andrew
I believe the name ‘hacking’ came about specifically for ‘hacking out the putty’.
Best to avoid those sprigs while doing so. I think that name has gone the way of the putty….
Rick
Amazon is also selling the Hultafors 380070U Chisel Knife STK as a cheaper (and inferior?) alternative to that Mora chisel knife for $8.99.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z9VNGYT/
I doubt that the plastic handle will last forever, but it’s from a reputable company, sold and shipped by Amazon, and has solid reviews. For occasional use it looks like a pretty decent deal.
Jared
The Hultafors is a V-chisel grind (which sounds like another way to describe a scandi-grind). The Mora is a true one-sided chisel grind.
I’m not saying there’s anything wrong with the Hultafors, just that it’s not the same. I prefer the Mora, but it might depend on what you’re doing.
Al
I have the Mora chisel knige, Hultafors chisel knife, and Dewalt demolition (side-strike) chisel. All are good enough for the price.
The Mora chisel knife is nice to keep in a glove box or console. Cheap enough to buy one for every vehicle.
Mark. M
I could get past the pricetag (maybe) but the aluminum scales are a deal-killer. Cold, slick, and destined to get a bur that either cuts my hand or has to be filed down, then I’ve got a skinned up handle on an $85 knife. Pass. At $50 with G10, FRN, micarta scales, yeah sign me up.
GAC
Home Depot has the Camillus Swedge for 19.99
Priced right for a true beater.
David Brock
Got one, not the sharpest knife out of the package but can take a beating.
Yadda
I instantly thought about the MORA chisel knife when I saw this. I agree the Mora has more utility and is definitely more economical.
Alexk
My hacking tool is a Becker BK2 with a five inch blade. The spine is 1/4” thick. And it’s gathering dust along with my smaller fixed blade Cold Steel. I was sure I was going to go in the woods and build me a structure with it. After getting Lyme and Babesia, my thoughts of spending lots of time in the woods of Hudson Valley NY has changed.
Stuart
I bought one in 2011, thinking it might be a useful workshop knife. That was wishful thinking.
J . Newell
There’s a folding chisel-knife that’s a joint development/marketing effort by KM Tools and the Bourbon Moth that’s got a true chisel grind, the folding knife equivalent of a full tang and very good design, materials and workmanship attributes, but it’s a lot more expensive than any of the three knives mentioned here at $160. I bought one, motivated by great curiosity, and it’s a very clever tool. If I spent my days in a woodworking shop it would probably live in a pocket on my apron or belt.
Jared
Thanks for sharing that – I hadn’t seen it before. Looks like an interesting design, has 14c28n blade steel, and cross-bar locks are my favorite. I like it.
Someone looking for a cheaper alternative might consider the CKRT Razel knives. The folding version has an angled tip though (the fixed version is more chisel-like).
MM
That is very cool, thanks for sharing. It’s also one of those things that makes you wonder why someone took so long to develop!
Speaking of folding knives, I can recall one that’s robust enough for hacking, prying, splitting, etc: the Extrema Ratio RAO. It’s honestly much too big for an EDC knife, but as a hacking tool for outdoors, bushcraft, and the like it is very nice. It is absurdly tough and also has a screw-in locking pin which secures the blade as robustly as a fixed blade for heavy use. The carrying pouch is also a smart design as it can hold the knife folded but it also has a built-in sheath that can carry the knife when you have the lock pin installed. The original has a unique Tanto-inspired point which can be used as a chisel. Only downside, once again, is price…
J . Newell
Leaving price aside, the Bourbon Moth/KMT folding chisel is not likely to disappoint, with the possible exception that I’m not sure that the clip is really industrial-strength. The blade seems to take a very keen edge with very good edge retention, and I haven’t chipped the blade yet prying the way you would with a normal chisel. 😉 I’m not sure why, but if you give it a good flip opening it up, the knife rings. Or at least mine does. Maybe the blade is actually a forging. In any case, I smile every time I hear that knife, oops, chisel, ring.
Karlen
I was going to mention the bourbon blade. I also got one in the “second run” of manufacture. I have not beat on it too much yet but I am very happy with it so far for splitting templates off my wood pieces and chipping off glue in an ornament project I am working on currently for gift giving this year.
Someone mentioned the clip strength. I can say it is very sturdy and tight. I had to remove the clip and force it open in a vice, prying it open with a screwdriver shaft and a good set of pliers because it would not get over the thicker seams of my working pants.
I also think I heard he is working on a mini bourbon blade. Out of the box I thought it was a little too big but in use so far it’s been a great size actually, but it is much to big for my liking to just take with you elsewhere or edc.
Ryan
Bahco makes a nice one of the chisel knives.
Joe H
Almost reminds me of a Becker Tac Tool.
Autolycus Too
For those looking for the ultimate “Hacking Knife”, you need look no further than the Ka-Bar Becker BK3 – with its 7-inch long, chisel-tipped, 1/4”- thick blade.
That it’s a beast built for utmost abuse is simply unarguable – and you can even buy after-market handle scales in a variety of materials & colours to suit anyone’s taste.
Unfortunately, such indestructibility does come with a downside – which is that you’ll be hard-pressed to find one under USD 200.
Not cheap, especially if you plan “whaling” on such a thing wiv an ‘ammer…