Did you build your own workbench? Show it off in the ToolGuyd forum, or describe it below!
My last 2 benches were simple affairs, but they worked well. The first involved simple 2×4 on 2×4 butt joints everywhere, and the second was made with Simpson Strong Tie brackets I bought at the local hardware store.
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That second bench had vertical rails at the rear that supported some Gladiator Geartracks (buy your own at Amazon), and also a slide-out vertical shelf with 2 short sections of Geartrack. I will likely replicate that vertical drawer (what else would you call it?) in my next bench, either with Geartrack or pegboard.
I made another using 80/20 extruded T-slot aluminum hardware and a butcher block top from Ikea, and will probably enhance it soon for greater stability and storage potential.
I’ve been brainstorming my next workbench build for a while, and want this one to be a lot more functional, but also more involved. I want it to be a medium for me to try new techniques and designs.
Normally, at this stage of a project, I’d be spending plenty of time online looking online for inspiration.
I would be scouring forums, woodworking and DIYer magazine sites, and off-topic but loosely related sites for examples of what others have built. The internet is the greatest place to look for project inspiration.
While my next design is all but finalized, maybe there’s a feature in your bench that I can incorporate into mine. And I can’t be the only person that’s planning to build a workbench.
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There’s also something incredibly interesting about seeing others’ workbenches. Maybe it’s because workbenches tend to be the most-used parts of a workshop, garage, or basement? Or is it because of their individual histories? Something else?
So c’mon, and show off your workbench. You can post photos to the forum, or simple describe your workbench design in a comment.
Discuss and Share in the Forum or leave a comment below. You can link to images here, or display them in the forum. (Max image size is 250kb if you don’t use your own image hosting service.)
P.S. That image above isn’t what my next workbench will look like. It’s something I drew up in Sketchup when relearning the program a few years ago.
Steve
I based my work table off of the design of the standard Amazon “door desk”. Basically, a solid core door with 4×4 legs. I bought a blemished door at a local lumber store for a discount. I attached the legs with Simpson Strong-Ties (1xRTA2Z, 1xSBV per leg). Later I added a chipboard storage shelf below with 2×4 supports and more Strong-Ties. I put a coat of varnish on the top, which probably wasn’t the best choice – it doesn’t protect very well (physically or chemically). Very sturdy bench.
john
I did the “$50” Family Handyman workbench – http://www.familyhandyman.com/workshop/workbench/how-to-build-a-workbench-super-simple-50-bench/view-all
Pretty overspec’d IMO. Also built one for my sons. Here is a video I shot to show a friend the custom LED strip lighting setup.
Sorry for the crap quality, it was just a quick vid i shot for a friend. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3hF6j1YS3O8
Jerry
Don’t have a home made woodworking bench for finish work, I use sawhorses for bigger things and a Keter table for smaller stuff. My workbench is also a mechanics bench and welding table that is among the stoutest I’ve seen. The top is made from the steel off an old water tower about 5/16″ thick (getting the arch ouht of it so itlays flat takes a while) and it is braced with 2 and 3 inch a gle irons 1/4″ thick. It is about 6X14 give or take, as it was made according to the size of the pieces we had to work with. 8:legs made of heavy wall square tubing, and an old USA made leg vise is welded directly to one corner. The vise was free for the taking because the mount was broken but it was made of steel instead of iron and welded nicely to the structure of the bench. Right now it needs to be cleaned off something terrible as it has the remnants of my last several projects cluttering it up to the point I don’t think I have 2 feet of on one end of actual clean usable space.
Graham Howe
I’m going for a fairly traditional wood worker bench build, I’m using construction lumber (mainly 2x12s ripped down to about 4″ wide) and have just finished the main construction.
I’m documenting the build over at John Heisz’s forum, but will add some detail to the forum here too.
http://www.ibuildit.ca/ibuildit-forum/viewtopic.php?id=530
Stuart
That’s something I’d been considering. Well, not 2x12s, but I saw one DIYer blogger rip 2×6’s down the middle for a benchtop, which still gives a solid top thickness, rather than 2x4s.
But If I laminate some 2×4-constructed panels and plane them, or find a friend with a jointer, will it matter if the top is thicker, heavier, and more solid?
Not that I need a laminated 2×4 or 2×3 top, but it’ll be practice for building a good woodworking bench.
Graham Howe
If you’re using construction lumber then a good thickness is about 4″. I was planning to use 2x10s ripped in half because after planing that gives about 4″. The 2x12s looked cleaner so I went with those but still kept to 4″ final thickness, it just meant I could discard the pith in the middle of the boards.
By the way I have no jointer nor friend with one. I skip planed all boards throughy thickness planer. Then used a hand plane with fence to joint the edges. The glued the main slab up in three sections and ran each through the planer again. Finally hand planed the top and bottom surface only after full assembly. The bottom of the slab had a slight (about 1/16″ belly) the top is pretty much dead flat.
If you rip 2×6 down the middle you’re going to get not much more than 2″ thickness. With 2×4 you’ll get a little over 3″. These are both a little thin for serious wood work, but the bigger concern I would have is getting clean and straight boards in the thinner dimensions. Generally by going wider you are more likely to end up with useable knot-free sections.
John G
Built my workshop benches about 15 yrs ago…I have a separate 1 car garage that I wanted to make a workshop and decided o nhaving a wall mounted work bench that wrapped around. I knew i wanted it sturdy enough to take a beating so it had to be thick and strong. Went out and bought 1 inch thick plywood sawed in half and then glued and screwed together every foot…that gave me a super strong 2ft x 8ft 2 inch top. I then ran framing underneath to eliminate sag..bolted it to the wall giant 15 inch brackets in the back and with 4×4s on the front…a replaceable floating masonite top with aluminum edging keeps it looking new…did that a few more times to wrap anound the shop and it has held up brilliantly to 15 yrs of abuse!
William
I second the replaceable masonite top. Then you don’t have to worry about drilling through a piece and permanently damaging your bench. It will damage it but you can easily replace it.
I also put a 2×4 on edge at the back of the bench against the wall. This gives me a little shelf for setting stuff on. It also keeps you from going through the drywall if you are planing or chiseling.
I made the mistake of putting the 2×4 over the masonite so I will need to take that off when I replace the top. Don’t do what I did.
Joe R
First off great site-Thanks.
One the first things I did after we bought our house and we had a few dollars was remove the old interior panel doors. Since they were post war construction (1947 home) the build quality was solid, so I placed left over 3/4″ plywood sheets on top to even the door surface, used 4×4 posts on the corners with wheels (looking back should have used larger diameter wheels), used 2×4’s for strength(cross members) and support for second shelf below main work surface and built a drawer for small stuff. It has been functional for over 20 years.
Richard G.
I had an old Craftsman toolbox which I used as a base. Added 2×4 frame around and attached solid core old door which I bought from a garage sale. On the top of a door I srewed a sheet of stainless steel. Extra secured the table to the wall with the angles. Got solid table with drawers which, in case if needed, could be rolled out by removing fasteners from the wall.
Mike
Surprised Ron Paulk has not been mentioned. Cannot emphasize strongly enough how great his benches are.
http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2011/09/09/the-ultimate-work-bench/
http://www.core77.com/posts/25533/the-story-of-how-ron-paulk-discovered-he-had-inadvertently-created-a-product-design-hit-25533
Personally, my needs(and skills) are sub-Paulk level. I use a Rockwell Jawhorse Sheetmaster(the larger capacity heavy duty model) and various inserts, examples: solid door, melamine/MDF, aluminum t-track embedded plywood with cross bracing and so on. Versatile, portable, and surprisingly effective. Easy to balance-and level too-with the tripod design. Add-on bracing/miter extensions, table saw insert…many possibilities.
Jon
Ron Paulk’s design is very cool, particularly for those who need to be able to transport or store their workbench.
I’m about halfway through building a Roubo bench (out of 1×4 scraps from a door shop where I used to work; I’m rather proud of the cost of $0 for lumber) based in large part on Christopher Schwarz’ excellent book on the subject. I HIGHLY recommend that everyone interested in making a workbench of any sort read his book before doing so, because his analysis and explanation of how workbenches are used is absolutely thorough and despite years of using workbenches of different types there were so many insights I had never considered.
Chris T
Second the roubo bench, with double recommendation going towards bench crafted’s hardware.
Woodsmith used to have a cool bench, but looks like it’s behind a pay wall now.
Graham Howe
I’m doing a DIY version of benchcrafted hardware on my leg vise. The screw will be cut from a scaffold levelling Jack, about $30, the wheel is a 10lb weight lifting plate, less than $10 and I’m actually making a ratcheted guide from some steel bar stock, $10. I’ll post a picture when it’s done.
Jon
I ordered my leg vise screw from Acme Tools on eBay. That silly seller thought it was a scaffolding jack and sold it for only $18. This silly buyer didn’t think to look for better photos, and should not have been surprised when it arrived with very rough threads. They appear cast rather than turned.
Fortunately my metal lathe arrived on Saturday. 🙂 I don’t have any screwcutting experience yet, but I should be able to clean it up with a file to near Benchcrafted performance.
But by all means, if you can fit the Benchcrafted tools in your budget, do it! I can’t imagine better performing tools anywhere.
Another option is Dema’s leg vise kit on Etsy. It appears to be out of stock right now, but he’s been selling it for $100. Several youtube videos and blog posts out there showing it in use.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/252492376/leg-vise-screw-hardware
For my wagon vise I’m using a Jorgensen press screw clamp:
http://www.toolbarn.com/jorgensen-6700.html
A guy on my local classifieds had a bunch for a veneer press he never built, so I bought one from him for $15.
Repeating because it’s worth it: Read Chris Schwarz’ book before building any sort of bench! http://www.amazon.com/Workbenches-Design-Construction-Popular-Woodworking/dp/1558708405
Kyle
Here are some of my favorite work bench build videos for inspiration.
https://youtu.be/ZXEvRoW8lY8
https://youtu.be/M_xJD_aylYw
https://youtu.be/HOjaT_6DVoE
https://youtu.be/3pfm6URciYc
https://youtu.be/FCuvdv8FO54
garrett
Mine’s a bit different – I wanted a workbench that could handle a little of everything (wood/auto/metal/electronics) and be very durable. I also used what I had. For the top, I laminated 3 30″ x 60″x 5/8″ birch plywood sheets together, wrapped that with 1/8″ thick angle iron (welded at the edges), then poured West Systems epoxy into the middle to level it up. I resisted the urge to put any pictures or coins in the epoxy, although I might let my wife paint a design on the next one, since she’s the artist.
A Ridgid 6″ vise is bolted to the top. All of this is bolted to a steel leg-set I bought at a Jet warehouse sale. Needless to say, it’s very sturdy. The work surface is also non-porous, which is another plus for me.
I love it. My only regret is that since it was my first time working with epoxy, I didn’t know about the ‘torch trick’ to draw and pop the bubbles (there’s quite a few bubbles in the top).
Tyler
I just finished a workbench. I used this site’s plans as a guide:
http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/workshop/bench/below20xl.html
Cost me about $60 when it was all said and done. I reinforced the middle with a couple of cross braces.
maxwasatch
I have an old server cart as the base for mine. I cut off the top so it can roll out of the garage doors and made a new table top from A/B plywood. I can move the height up and down if needed (though it is some work) and there is a power strip built in. I love that it can be moved around the garage or even outside if needed.
Jon
That reminds me! I just made a rolling one this past weekend. I moved the radial arm saw to its own base (which is a scrap sheet goods rack itself) and put a piece of plywood on the old rolling base, a bit wider in both directions than the metal base, and attached all of the power tools and smaller bench vise that I used to have to pull off of a shelf or out of a cabinet and clamp on the bench to use. Benchtop drill press (more precise than my big one), benchtop band saw (it was free and the variable speed and Starrett blade lets me cut steel), stationary belt/disc sander, and bench grinder. Mounted a power strip for all of them and routed & mounted the cords so they will never be in the way. Hook on the side keeps its dedicated extension cord handy. And in the base I put my welder and its gas bottle. Just need to make a middle shelf now for the welding accessories (corded angle grinder, chip/slag hammer, pliers, spare nozzles, gloves, etc.) and a hook to hang my helmet. Eventually I’ll add an extension cord so I can weld out in the driveway if necessary, but that cable won’t be cheap.
That freed up lots of space in cabinets and on shelves, so I can further consolidate more of my smaller tools and consumables. That afternoon project made a HUGE difference in my shop. Amazing what a rolling tool cart can do for you.
Jon
Also, maxwasatch, I’m curious about your name. Do you live on the Wasatch Front (or back) or are there other uses for “wasatch” I don’t know about?
Mahalo
I made the “Kreg Jig Workbench” using all pocket joinery. I am pleased with the result, which is a very sturdy table. They have you glue together 2 pieces of MDF. Instead, I edge banded the top piece with an overhang so that the entire top sheet (w/ banding) slides over the lower sheet, that way I can replace it (or flip it) easily if I ever want to.
Mahalo
The MDF is for the top and the shelf, the rest is 2×4 construction.