About 8 months ago, Makita announced that their XPH07 18V brushless hammer drill would lead the industry in torque, speed, runtime, and have the fastest battery charge time.
A recent Makita advert boasts that the new brushless hammer drill delivers the most jaw-dropping inch-pounds of torque in its class, and with a rating of 1,090 in-lbs, that’s not an exaggeration.
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However, now that Bosch and Dewalt 18V 5.0Ah battery pack are available, Makita seems to have changed their tune about the drill’s runtime standing. Makita’s 4.0Ah battery pack still isn’t available in the USA, but a Makita rep confirmed that it is scheduled to be released sometime in August or September. It looks like XPH07M drill kit will ship with 4.0Ah batteries. When we asked about the availability of a 5.0Ah battery, they responded that no information or updates were available.
1,090 in-lbs is impressive for an 18V cordless drill. As we discussed in a post about drills, auxiliary handles, and UL requirements, more power, or reactionary force, means the tool must be bundled with a longer handle.
Makita’s comparison shows that the XPH07 drill comes with an appropriately sized auxiliary handle.
Features and Specifications
- 1090 in-lbs max torque
- 8-1/8″ long
- 5.9 lbs weight
- On-board battery fuel gauge
- LED work light
- 0-550, 0-2100 RPM gearbox
- Brushless motor
- 4.0Ah battery charges in 40 minutes
Compared to Dewalt’s 20V premium brushless hammer drill, the new Makita drill is a hair over 1/4″ shorter, and about 1.2 pounds heavier.
Compared to Milwaukee’s M18 Fuel brushless hammer drill (with XC battery), the Makita is marginally longer and nearly 1 pound heavier.
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There will be two XPH07 hammer drill purchasing options available – a kit with charger and batteries (XPH07M), and a bare tool (XPH07Z), and there will also be two XFD07 drill/driver versions as well (XFD07M kit, XFD07Z bare tool).
ETA: Summer 2014
Price: ~$150 for bare tools, $300+ for kits
Buy Now(Bare Hammer Drill via Amazon)
Buy Now(Drill Kit via Amazon)
Buy Now(Bare Drill via Amazon)
First Thoughts
I find myself wedged between two opinions. On one side, I am impressed that Makita managed to build such a powerful hammer drill. On the other side, I think that the drill’s very long auxiliary handle might make it unwieldy or cumbersome to use.
While you could use the drill without the auxiliary handle, that wouldn’t be recommended. To my knowledge, Makita has not implemented an accelerometer, motion sensor, or other safety feature similar to Bosch’s anti-kickback technology that would protect users from the unanticipated rotation and loss of control that could occur when a bit jams or binds. With the drill capable of delivering 1,090 in-lbs of torque, users will definitely want to hold on with both hands for maximum control.
I’m glad that Makita designed a battery fuel gauge into the tool, but wish that this feature would be implemented into their 18V battery packs instead. This would make it easier to determine if a detached battery is charged or not, and would potentially drop the price of bare tools. I simply don’t understand why Makita did not engineer their upcoming 18V 4.0Ah and hopefully eventual 5.0Ah battery packs without built-in fuel gauges.
It will be interesting to see what US tradesmen and professionals think about Makita’s new hammer drill. It’s more powerful than any heavy duty 18V drill or hammer drill that Bosch, Dewalt, Milwaukee, or any other leading brand has released to date. Will such power make the drill appealing as an everyday drill, or will it only appeal to users who work with higher torque applications a majority of the time? If you ask me, I think this is more destined to become a specialty tool.
Colin
Like many things in life, just because you can doesn’t mean you should. That pretty much sums up my feelings about this particular tool.
jay k.
I love more power, but for me if you need that much power I simply go for the impact. If you were that concerned about perfect large bore holes, I would probably be using corded. That handle does not look appealing.
Dan
It will have its uses but will be more specialty than everyday, its too heavy. It does allow cordless drilling of larger and longer holes than before and its not always easy to get mains power to where you want it, I bet you could run a decent sized masonry core with too.
regopit
Ok maybe I’m looking at this all wrong, but it is a hammer drill you really don’t need all of that torque. You what something to chip and brake away the material so you want is BPH
mike
I agree with comments above,not sure what Makita is trying to prove with this product.
Seems also like it might be a bit clumsy to use with that strangely long handle.
Perhaps they should concentrate on going back to their roots so to speak.
Tim K
I love it! i reach for my cordless more and more. i have a milwaukee super hole hog, but for small bathroom or kitchen renos that are not fully gutted i mainly use more cordless. i am sure i could shorten that handle to normal length in 10 mins. those who say its unsafe, i can argue against that but will say 99 percent of pros never use them anyways. I use the torque handle on rare occasions, general with a hole saw that is larger then 4 inches. i just with makita would improve their keyless chuck, worst of any brands. and i sure hope this thing has 3 speeds.
Stuart
It has two speeds, 0-550, and 0-2100 RPM.
Aellynh
Honestly not sure what everybody else is complaining about, always can use more power in cordless. I use a lot of cordless drills that are ‘rated’ at 700+ inch pounds of torque and every single one of them binds up and stalls with 1/2 inch drill bits in steel or virtually any step bit. It would be nice to have a drill that has enough sustained torque to power through larger drill bits and not stall out. Same thing for larger size hole saws, more than 1 inch and just about any drill/driver is going to slow down or stall out in thick steel. If it wasn’t for the convenience of cordless, I’d be tempted to use my corded drill/driver for drilling more holes of larger diameters.
Besides that the weight isn’t unreasonable at all. I don’t remember hearing a lot of complaints from all the contractors that /still/ are running 18v Dewalt NiCd drills and they’re all about 6 pounds for the drill/driver or 6 pounds and change for the hammerdrill/driver. Compared to the 12 pound SDS drill I use any time I’m going into masonry (which is often), a 5 or 6 pound cordless drill is featherweight.
I will agree with virtually everyone else though, it is completely asinine that Makita can’t implement a 3 or 4 bar charge level on their batteries for either the 4.0 or 5.x AH batteries going onward. Not to mention they are /extremely/ slow about catching up to modern battery technology when basically every other brand doesn’t seem to have any other issue getting up to 5.0AH cells for the larger packs. Here is hoping we see 2.5AH ‘slimpacks’ before too long.
fred
I’m not sure how important high-torque is for hammer-drilling in the diameter range that this drill is likely to accommodate. In wood – for big self-feed bits (where torque was an issue) we used corded right angle drills – up to and including Milwaukee’s Super Hole Hawg. For big hole hand-held masonry drilling (with core drills) we used a Weka unit – but brought out a stand unit (we had MK and Husqvarna) for drilling into slabs. Nonetheless – this tool might fill a niche market as you suggest.
fred
Sorry – I should have included a link for the Weka drill – for those who are unfamiliar with this brand:
http://www.amazon.com/Weka-Hand-Held-Speed-Drill/dp/B002JUUQVW
Marco
Metabo’s puts out more torque and is lighter.
Alfredo Huerta
Is there any website I can order a metabo combo kit? I saw a metabo drill long ago. It’s almost a unicorn here in Ga.
Larry L.
Stuart, I’ve gotta be honest here. I’ve really enjoyed the site for the past several years, but I get the feeling you’ve ran out of things to write about. Seems like about 75% of the post on Toolguyd anymore are either obvious marketing bull$&it, or shameless rewrites of stuff the guys @ Tools in action posted.
I understand it takes marketing money to run a website, but half the articles aren’t even reviews or news, they’re just catalyst to provide an Amazon link in hopes someone will click it. I don’t care to make some clicks to help keep the site strong, but I’m not a fool either.
Come on man, you can do better than this. Quit running an Amazon promo site and start writing some original content. I want the old Toolguyd back.
Stuart
Honesty is always appreciated.
Marketing BS? Like what? If you’re talking about the recent iron carbide post, that was entirely my idea. Remember, I have a background in science and engineering. Should I not cover something that interests me because it might come across as a little markety? I asked for high mag images, they put together a colorful branded graphic. I’ll take that over nothing. A few months ago when reviewing the Makita impact bits I asked Makita to discuss the “tatara” steel composition of the bits. I asked twice and nobody ever got back to me. So if a brand furnish usable but branded images instead of raw micrographs at my request, I’m going to happily use them.
There are generally 2 types of posts – those I think would be of readers’ interests, and those that are of strong personal interest. The fact of the matter is that as soon as a new tool comes out, tips and questions start flooding in until I look into it. This drill looks interesting, but I have hesitations about it. This drill is going to be the yardstick by which other brands’ current and future drills will be compared to, so it was worth taking a closer look at. The drill hasn’t been announced yet, but I spotted it in a Contractor Mag advertisement that led to Makita’s microsite for it.
I have a list of many hundreds of different tools and topics that I still want to – and plan to – write about. I’m sure many of them will be of great interest to readers, but I cannot ignore timeliness. ToolGuyd has been around long enough that I know what regular readers like most, and that’s for information, insight, and opinions about tools that are coming out now or imminently.
I’m about 2 weeks behind on my TIA reading, so I’m not sure what you’re talking about. Whenever something is inspired from a post there, which happens maybe a few times a year, there will always be a link to the source.
Regarding Amazon, my linking to them more often is because it’s easy and because that’s the retailer I spend most of my own tool budget at. I probably spend 10 minutes shopping for and buying tools and supplies on Amazon for every 1 minute spent elsewhere combined. Yes, sales through the links help support ToolGuyd, but that’s not the motivation. Regarding the easy part, Amazon is one of few retailers that hasn’t changed their linking structure in years. A number of retailers I regularly link out to, including Home Depot and Lowes, completely changed their linking structures in recent years, requiring me to go back and fix all the dead links. That wasn’t fun, and I sometimes still get emails saying “hey this link doesn’t work.”
If a “buy now” link doesn’t go up, do you know how many “where can I buy this” emails I get? Even when a post has clear “where to buy” links, I STILL get “where can I buy this,” “can I buy this from you,” and “how much does it cost” emails. So a link goes up where fitting to avoid these types of emails later on. Having a purchase link in the post greatly reduces but doesn’t eliminate a lot of these types of emails. Regular readers like yourself don’t ordinarily ask these questions. But if a visitor lands on a page through Google or a referrer, they almost always want to know where they can buy the product.
I read every comment and every email, even though I don’t reply to all of them. I don’t consider it a shortcut, but popping in Amazon links has proved to be the easiest way to cut down on how many purchasing inquiries I receive. If someone needs a little extra help tracking down a better price, different configuration, or updated model, I’ll gladly help out when I can.
I have been approached by companies who want to partner up and pay for “pricing engines” “shopping widgets” and other such features to appear on ToolGuyd at the bottom of posts, but that’s not a direction I want to go in. Amazon links serve a need, and yes they help support the site. I will gladly link out to Home Depot, Lowes, or other retailers or chains when applicable. When someone wants to buy a tool, they will probably look for it at their favorite retailer or distributor anyway. That’s what I do when I’m ready to buy a tool. I’ll provide a link to Amazon and maybe another retailer or two as a starting point. Because if I don’t, that means more time later on responding to individual emails asking exactly for this.
If my intent was to create content around the desire to drive Amazon clicks, ToolGuyd content would look very, very different.
I can assure you that there is no shortage of tools for me to discuss. The only thing I’m short on is time. That’s why there’s more focus on tools I think would be of greater reader interest vs. tools I am more passionate about or interested in discussing. Readers’ interests, or what I perceive to readers’ interests, come first, but my interests still count.
Also keep in mind that ToolGuyd was originally intended as a Tool Guide, a sort of reference for those looking to buy tools for certain projects, or for those looking to grow their tool collection. My progress towards this goal has been very slow, but the bar’s moving forward. This means that sometimes you’re going to see a post about a tool you’re already familiar with or not interested in, but there will be times when there’s a tool that’s completely new to you.
There’s plenty of good stuff planned in the works, and as far as I am aware I haven’t changed intent or motivation over the years. I’d be glad to continue the conversation, but perhaps through email or a different post. Feedback is always appreciated.
SharkyTM
This is why I read ToolGuyd. Stuart, thanks for taking the time to write a well-worded and well thought out post explaining what you are doing with the site. I find marketing drivel as annoying as the next fellow, and I’m very rarely annoyed by your content.
As a matter of fact, you often quote the marketing-speak, then give us your take, often tearing their BS to shreds.
Keep up the good work, and I don’t mind the Amazon links. Consistent linking is always a plus, as I often use your site for research, and it’s always nice to just click a link and be able to find reviews on a product that you talked about 2 years ago.
matt
Does anyone use those handles on a cordless drill?? I have never ever put one on. I have never ever seen any cordless that would really require one, this even with the rated torque does not seem like its gonna need it.. Its not like its a freaking hole hawg..
I have the m18 fuel hammer drill now and even with larger bits I dont need the trainer handle.. This one is just silly looking..
Stuart
I do, sometimes when using Dewalt premium 3-speed or Milwaukee Fuel test samples. When really pushing them to their limits the aux handles help with control.
Makita *had* to include a long handle that’s based on measured max reactionary torque. Otherwise it wouldn’t pass UL guidelines and wouldn’t be accepted by OSHA for professional use at jobsites.
In my opinion, with torque like this, Makita really should have implemented anti-kickback sensors similar what Bosch built into their newest heaviest duty cordless drills.
Dave
I seriously doubt this tool produces the rated torque. My dad has a Makita LXPH03 that supposedly has 750 in/lbs. torque. The drill feels like it only has half the torque my Milwaukee has, which is also rated at 750 in/lbs. If power is important, Bosch and Milwaukee have always lead the field IMO.
John
There go Makita adding more stupid ideas to the lineup. They are becoming the Chrysler of the Tool world.
How about they get the 5ah battery’s out, gauges on battery’s and not tools, electronics to cut power when bits lock up for starters. They have lost the plot in their design department.
Mike
Torque is overrated on drills I own a dewalt dc720 & a makita bdh451 the makita has over 100 inlbs more than the dewalt but when it comes to real drilling the dewalt is more powerful
DragonLord
That is precisely why DeWalt uses a different metric nowadays, unit watts out (UWO). Too bad few other brands give UWO numbers for their drills…
Joel
Yes! I have the dewalt and the Milwaukee, and indeed the Dewalt does feel considerably more powerful.
Chris
Honestly it’s funny to read this type of stuff. Almost every response or article about a new tools say “Look More Power” and everyone oohs and aahs. But this one gets the exact opposite. I see a tool that leads the way but since it’s not the correct color it gets negative responses. Oh well, more tools for me.
Ryan
Torque is just a number. Numbers mean nothing. you can tell by feel that the dewalts are more powerful.
DragonLord
Makita seems to like pushing the limits on power tools. Charging a 4 Ah battery in 40 minutes? Check. 6000 RPM drywall screwguns? Check. Corded performance by using two 18V LXT batteries? Check.
And now a hammer drill with an insane 1090 in-lb torque? Absolutely jaw-dropping.
Aellynh
I don’t know about the charging time being over the top… Europe has had a fast charger for their 18v batteries for some time now and the recharging times are very impressive. 30 minutes for 3.0AH, 35 minutes for 4.0AH, and 45 minutes for the newest 5.2AH batteries. Can’t wait until we get 2.5AH or 2.6AH batteries that charge in 15 minutes, that would be insane!!!
Aellynh
Oops, meant to say Metabo over in Europe 😀
Joel
I am very impressed with the power, although I do not know any tradies that would ever attach that gigantic handle.
Dwain
have just done a video review on this drill 🙂 http://youtu.be/LCMsK4mzR64
DragonLord
Interesting… so the overload protection is a bit *too* sensitive this time around and the drill doesn’t attain its specified performance as a result.
Makita likes to push the limits as I’ve said before, but their products are sometimes flawed in subtle ways that make them perform poorly in certain specific use cases. The battery issue which they had prior to the introduction of STAR Protection Computer Controls was a dealbreaker for DIY users who only used their tools occasionally.
Dwain (OZ Tool Talk)
OK guys, second review is up, including footage of the tool in action. It looks like we had some sort of issue (probably battery) which messed up our results. This Makita drill is absolutely cracking! http://youtu.be/gUscFyTacS0
Nick contractor
I know this thread hasn’t been active in about a year but some questions need to be answered. If you use a drill all day the handle is a must. I mix thinset and modified concrete with my m18 fuel, who makita is trying to compete with, and if you don’t use a handle, especially with real mixing paddles, your wrists and forearms will pay for it in a few days. Expensive bits will suffer too, it really sucks bending a new $60 bit. Your rate of work falls too because your arms are just that much more used. As far as power, this class of drills are awesome and most trades can benefit from having one on hand! The power without a cord is great and very useful. I often have a dozen tools at the site that are out and in use and it is hard enough getting power to everything and cords are just plain hazardous. I wish eveyrthing was cordless just to reduce the risk associated with using clients electrical. I blow breakers all the time and i am just plain concerned witbh the day a client has the wrong size breaker and we catch a wire in the wall on fire. I can mix about 500 lbs (10-20 batches) of thinset out of a good 4.0 battery. I have to charge the battery 1 or 2 times when i build a full custom tile shower and thats about a weeks work. I normally charge all of my batteries once a week so i always start on a full charge then as needed or at the end of the day when i will be using it heavily the next. My employees who use makita are always looking for there charged batteries but i am not sure what feature to a tribute that to: brushless, transmission, gearing etc. I am really enticed to try this one out and see if i can burn it up. I figure the first time i put the m18 fuel in the shop, i will pick this one up for a test drive.
Toolpig
I find that most of the time the handle is in needed. I very rarely see anyone in the trades using a side handle on cordless drill.
But let me tell you if you are using at 2 9/16 inch self feed bit you better be holding on tight with this drill. It will smack you if you aren’t paying attention. As Nick Contractor said, The side handle is absolutely essential when mixing mortar. I have used my corded mixing drills for the last time. This beast has the power and the longevity to mix mud all day. If you try to do that without the side handle you are going to have sore wrists I don’t care how big you are . Thanks Makita for stepping it up. I also like the design of this side handle. It is very strong and grips the drill much more securely then on the Milwaukee fuel generation one or generation 2 which I have. This drill also has more power than the Fuel 2. It will do things that make the Fuel 2 smoke and go into protect mode? I have done a few videos and posted them on Instagram . Check them out if you get a chance
dcp123
I’m in the market to replace my cordless drill and have had good experiences with Makita, so I’m looking at their brushless XFD07Z drill and XPH07Z hammerdrill. I don’t especially need a hammer drill, but the hammer drill is essentially the same price and weight. I have a decent corded Milwaukee hammer drill and I really don’t do much drilling into masonry, so I’d just buy the regular drill if there was a significant difference in price or weight.
So, if I get the option of having a hammer drill with no cord at no additional cost, that’s nice. But I wonder if it’s really as good as the regular drill at the tasks I would use it for 97% of the time drilling wood (90%) and metal (7%ish). The torque is the same and I think the RPM ranges are also. However, I would guess that, because of the added complexity of the drive and chuck, there’s probably more wobble/run out in the hammer drill than the standard drill. I’ve seen some suggestion online that is usually the case with hammer drills. Nothing I do is really precision work, but wobble is a pain when I drill metal (I have no drill press, nor space to store one).
Any thoughts? Should I get the extra drill features for free, or is there likely to a real difference in the basic drilling feature?
dcp123
Sorry for the double post. I forgot to check the “notify me” box and needed to post again to request that.
Frank Ubar
This is much more a question than a comment. Okay, it’s ALL question. I’m considering the XPH07 for general home use. I’m not a pro but I like nice tools. A couple of years ago I researched to death and bought a Makita LXDT06 impact driver and I’m very happy with it.
Needs: 1/2 inch – definitely. Hammer drill – rarely and I have a corded one but as others have said, why not, price is the same. Brushless – more power and I like more power but as the site owner here has stated, maybe it’s too much?
Concerns: The too much power comments. I don’t plan on using it with the handle. I’m also concerned about having too much “overlap” between the drill and impact driver. Since I have one of the most powerful and best impact drivers, maybe I can get by with less drill? Maybe not even buy it at all and just buy a chuck adapter for my impact driver? Maybe consider a lesser model instead?
Thoughts for the non pro who likes nice tools and doesn’t use them nearly enough?
Stuart
If you don’t think you’ll need the power, a smaller drill might serve you better. Some stores have satisfaction guarantees, in case a purchase doesn’t work out for you.