I recently posted about how the Dewalt 20V Max XR cordless reciprocating saw has become my go-to. In continuing that conversation, let’s talk about how this Makita XGT recip saw has been the best I’ve used.
Metabo HPT’s MultiVolt saw might come in second, and is on sale right now. Milwaukee’s M18 Fuel Sawzall also performed very well.
But when it comes down to the overall best, I think my purchased copy of Makita’s XGT 40V Max reciprocating saw takes the lead.
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I usually pair it with a 4Ah battery (18V 8Ah equivalent), but sometimes I grab whatever battery is closest or most convenient to reach. In the case of the image shown above, that was apparently a 2.5Ah battery (18V 5Ah equivalent).
2 years ago, a reader requested I review some of Makita’s XGT tools, and I came across holiday promos that were hard to pass up.
If the Makita is the best I’ve used, how did the Dewalt become my new go-to? To put it concisely, convenience plays a big part in that.
Sometimes I consciously select a tool, other times I naturally gravitate to one, and that’s what happened here.
For most of my cutting tasks, I’m not sure if the XGT saw would produce measurable benefits. I rarely use the XGT’s orbital mode, and also rarely extend its shoe. A pivoting shoe is good enough most of the time.
When it comes to vibrations, the Makita – even with its vibration reduction system – is still fatiguing and bothersome to use for extended periods.
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I’m down to 2 full-size reciprocating saws – the Makita shown above, and the new Dewalt XR model.
Objectively speaking, I should part with the Dewalt recip saw test sample next, and keep my Makita XGT, as it’s better featured. Subjectively speaking, I’m considering donating them both and giving the Metabo HPT MultiVolt model another whirl while it’s on sale.
In some cases, tool selection can make a difference on the user experience or the final results, or both. A better miter saw, for example, might be better at dust collection, require less clearance, be easier to move around, or deflect less when making longer cuts.
With a recip saw, there are differences, but not enough to make me chase after the best-featured or better-performing model, even if they’re all at my disposal. The priority for me is safe, quick, and convenient operation, and most full-size brushless saws can offer that.
The Dewalt XR reciprocating saw is my go-to. Should it not be?
I tend to like Milwaukee’s M18 Fuel Sawzalls the best, the Makita XGT is the best-featured, and I habitually reach for the Dewalt most often.
If I had to part with one of my last two full-size reciprocating saws, which would it be? Off the top of my head, I might give away the Makita and hold onto the Dewalt, but the margin is slim.
For ToolGuyd purposes, it’d be better to donate them both and try something new – maybe the HPT model again, or maybe Bosch; it’s been a few years since I’ve tested a Bosch reciprocating saw.
I don’t really care about which is “best” anymore; as I continue cleaning up my workspace, I’ve been focusing most on the tools that are most convenient for me.
Sometimes I think about things from a ToolGuyd perspective – “what might ToolGuyd readers want to see tested long-term?” but that can get messy – both literally and figuratively.
I need to spend more time with the new Dewalt XR recip saw, even if it hadn’t become my go-to, and it’ll be very difficult or at least cost prohibitive to source another Makita recip saw down the road, and so I’ll keep them both for now.
Do you guys care about which tools are best? Or are you mainly sticking within your chosen cordless power tool platforms?
Maybe I should ask you guys to pick my next cordless reciprocating saw. More specifically, are there any recip saw questions that I could answer for you with long-term testing?
Alexk
Pretty sure I got my M18 Super Sawsall for $199 plus a free battery. Only thing I’d like is an easier way to change blades. Twisting it to open and close is a little tough on my sometimes aching fingers.
There are tools I might like better, but for my use, sticking with one battery system is best for now.
Drew
The lever blade change on the regular fuel was a game changer. It would often be miserable trying to twist it when it was gummed up and filthy.The old super only gets taken out for large demo jobs nowadays.
Old Suburban Dad
For most tools, I think the performance differences between the major brands is too negligible to maintain multiple platforms.
That said , I’m a weekender / hobbiest type.
If I was relying these tools for my living I would invest in the best of each specific one, as I think , over time, the comfort/efficiency/ergonomics/performance would be more likely to prove worth the selectiveness.
Or I might just buy Makita, because it’s Makita and it makes me happy.
Lance
Agreed. I own Makita LXT, not because each tool is best in category (they’re not) but because they’re powerful enough and are very nice to use. The few tools which need additional power are 18V X2 (rear handle saw, track saw, 7” grinder, and miter saw) and they work great.
If I was starting out today? I might forego 18v for most tools and do M12 Fuel with a few FlexVolt for high power necessity tools. I was close to buying a FV miter saw but got a deal on the Makita I just couldn’t pass up.
I still LOVE my LXT tools, but I’m not sure I would recommend someone starting out to invest in them since Makita have done little to earn my confidence that they will continue to push the platform’s development; that requires new more powerful larger capacity batteries, not just a new tool now and then.
Old Suburban Dad
It does look like the forthcoming cordless framing nailer will come in an LXT variant. That’s a positive sign. Nonetheless at some point the LXT line will probably get progressively less love from Makita.
S
While I think sawzall’s are great for really large jobs, I’ve personally migrated to the hackzall for easier one-handed operation.
I used to be diehard to only use sawzall’s, but after seeing far too many other contractors on jobs with only hackzall’s, I started asking questions.
The big difference is that sawzall’s are a two-handed tool. Yes, they can be used one-handed, but the rear handle design makes them somewhat unwieldy.
Most of the materials I’m cutting are drywall, schedule 40 and 80 PVC, and thin 16 gauge or smaller metals. None of these are extreme use, so the hackzall has more than enough power, and the handle design makes it far easier to hold the tool and hold the work piece with my other now-free hand.
I still keep a sawzall around when things get serious, but find that I’m far less fatigued from carrying around a smaller tool to do medium grade tasks than a heavy duty tool to do the same tasks.
Jonathan N.
Hi Stuart,
As to your question,
“Do you guys care about which tools are best? Or are you mainly sticking within your chosen cordless power tool platforms?”
I most definitely care which are best! In my case I have a lot invested in Makita 18V tools because I like the ergonomics. A Hackzall as mentioned is a great tool ergonomically. Worth investing in if it pertains to your work. That 40V Makita reciprocating saw isn’t something I’d use at my age, but it’s interesting to hear about.
For younger people coming up in a trade asking for advice on what tool system to use, I size them up literally. For larger folk with big hands, Milwaukee or DeWalt at the top end. Smaller people like me, Makita helps immensely with fatigue. In between are certain tools worth getting a new battery/charger though it’s got to be worth taking up space too obviously. Articles and comments help me with that.
Stuart
What if say Hilti or Milwaukee’s recip saw performs better than Makita’s? Would you consider buying into multiple platforms?
Times and tech have changed, and so I’m looking to rework how I test and report on tools. It’s making less sense for me to do comparison testing, or ongoing long-term rotations, and more sense to explore tools one at a time before moving to the next. I’m hoping that better serves the community, but looking to be sure.
Jonathan N.
I personally wouldn’t for a large 2handed reciprocating saw. It’s a brute.
I would definitely invest in another platform for a cordless Miter Saw, (due to price) , a better Jigsaw for coping base/crown, (accuracy/ergonomics) , and cordless router, (own Makita Trim Router).
Exploring one tool at a time & comparing it to what you’ve used in the past doesn’t seem to be a bad way to go.
Ciccio
Have you ever tried the Bosch Profactor ?
I think is one of the best Reciprocating saw out there.
I have one and it’s a joy to use
Stuart
Not yet. The last one I tested was this one – https://14cyiuhvcgv.com/bosch-ergonomic-cordless-corded-reciprocating-saws/%3C/a%3E – and it was alright but I never got used to the ergos.
ciccio
I agree. I tried that one too and didn’t like it too much, altough the specs are great.
Scott K
It seems like we’re in a cordless tool sweet spot and any reputable brand can provide tools that perform really well. Specs may vary, but as mentioned above they are relatively negligible.
I have a handful of Ryobi batteries for various tools and one Dewalt battery that I share between a circ saw and hammer/drill/driver. My Bosch drill and impact are almost a decade old and still work great- but when they go, I think I’ll replace them with DeWalts.
Stuart
That’s a good way of putting it.
The competitive differences on a tool-by-tool basis have been narrowing.
Jared
This is also my view. There are exceptions where one brand is obviously leading the others or where a company doesn’t have a tool – but for a lot of mainstream tool offerings, the differences don’t seem so large to me that it’s worth pursuing the latest and greatest.
I think impact drivers are a good example – for both contexts.
E.g. every cordless tool brand makes them, all of the top-tier examples are about as powerful as they can be before they start shredding 1/4″ hex bits. I wouldn’t choose a brand based on it’s impact driver…
…or would I?
Hydraulic impact drivers are a bit more specialized. If I wanted one of those, the DCF870 seems to have an appreciable performance advantage over the M18 surge. I might not switch platforms over that, but it might be a reason to go yellow right now if I were shopping for a quieter impact.
On top of all that, sometimes I don’t even need the top-performing tool. E.g. I gave most of my Porter Cable 20v tools to my mom a few years ago, figuring she might as well have cordless tools and I was most switching away from that dying brand. I replaced the reciprocating saw with a Ridgid Octane – and even though it was more powerful and fully-featured, I have to say I preferred my wimpy Porter Cable saw.
It was way lighter, smaller, controllable… that probably just means I would have been better served with a one-handed style saw, but it also highlighted for me that more performance wasn’t necessarily what I needed from a reciprocating saw.
Lance
That new DeWalt hydraulic impact gives me hope that these tools will continue to be developed! I have the Makita and M12 hydraulic and they’re both great tools.
Harrison
Personally, I like having a few battery systems in play, it basically guarantees you’ll always have access to something decent if not class leading. There are very few bad tools these days, but not every tool works for everyone. It is nice to have options.
Matt
Why the Dewalt over Milwaukee if you actually like the red one better? Read the other post but I either missed it or didn’t quite grasp the ‘convenience’ part.
To the question of what we buy, I’d bet there’s a mix. Personally I have 20V Dewalt, but last year gave in and got 12V Milwaukee too because they had more/better tools in that class. I want to know what is best, but also why, because like you said it is often mixed and what’s important to me may be less so to another person. So far I like the 12V tools so much I’m leaning toward buying 12V where I was planning 20 – in part because of how well reviewed both the tools and company have been lately.
Stuart
I don’t have an answer to that.
I donated the Milwaukee recently, and it hurt more to part with. Both were more or less interchangeable, but I found the Dewalt more convenient to reach for. The same was true when I had the FlexVolt Advantage model.
I’ve tried not to think too deeply about some of my organic preferences.
12V vs 20V is still different classes. What I mean, is within classes, such as Dewalt 12V vs Milwaukee M12 vs… etc.
I’d really like to have faster turnaround and lower long-term test models floating around. Moving from tool to tool seems like a good path forward, but would require foregoing comparative testing.
Drew
The DeWalt is shorter and lighter, so it makes sense for random tasks.
However if you have a smaller hackzall and the options of fuller size DeWalt or Milwaukee, it leaves the DeWalt in a bad spot imo.
Goodie
Recip saws (unless they are jig saws) are such crude beasts that I don’t think there’s that much difference between brands. Now, if I were working demo every day – I would certainly own the recip saw with the best combination of power, features, and (#1 priority) lowest vibration. And it has to be GREAT at blade changes. That’s probably the Makita; I consider them the best saw builders of the major cordless brands.
That said, I bet you wouldn’t really notice very much difference between the MultiVolt saw, the Makita, a DeWalt, or the high-end Milwaukee.
I have the previous generation 18v Metabo HPT recip saw. It has an adjustable shoe, and a rafter hook, but no orbital mode. It has a great “auto” mode where it starts slow and then speeds up once it is ready to take the load. I sometimes look with envy on the MultiVolt saw, and the XGT does look nice. But my existing saw can take everything I throw at it, and it’s a little lighter than the MultiVolt saw… Blades changes are really easy. Certainly a nice, go-to saw. My single-handed Metabo HPT works great, also. It’s great with JigSaw Blades, and is probably a better (crude) jigsaw than recip.
I save my picky attitude for finish tools, where I think Bosch and Festool have some great options. The new Metabo HPT MultiVolt track saw has me very interested, as it will work with my existing Festool tracks.
AC
I have the same 18v HPT recip and the 36v Godzilla, both of which I bought on deep discount. Both are very good saws IMO, the 36v is more powerful and generally superior but it can get heavy with extended use. I agree that the auto mode on the 18v is great. I grab the smaller saw more often, but am glad to use the beastly 36v when I need more brawn.
Both saws have decent vibration control, but my old Makita 15A AVT recip cuts so smoothly that I won’t sell it out of loyalty to quality engineering. Makita also replaced the orbital switch, the blade clamp, and the brushes for free (FedEx included) during the pandemic–first-class customer service.
My 10-year-old Dewalt DCS380 brushed recip shakes like hell but is pretty compact and cuts fast enough for many tasks. I’ll grab it if I’m using my (mostly older but still working) Dewalt tools.
I use and enjoy tools from many brands but my first line at 18v and up is Metabo HPT, and I am very satisfied overall. The current HPT deals at Acme are pretty hard to ignore: you can score many of their 36v tools at a discount without sales tax and with a free 4/8ah battery + charger kit.
Thanks as always to Stuart for the comprehensive coverage of the tool cosmos.
Robert
I’m surprised vibration reduction doesn’t get more attention as the key factor on sawzall for pros. Since the major brands seems to cluster pretty close in other performance factors, but VR seems prudent for long term health and livelihood. Your Metabo HPT and the Flex sawzalls are well regarded for VR.
Goodie
I agree. I buy high end sanders for this reason; I don’t like the tingling and pain I get after using a tool that has poor VR control.
Silly tests where “brand x is 5 seconds faster than y” doesn’t matter that much in the real world; dealing with pain from tools that wreck your body does matter.
Dave (not here)
Corded tools, which I’m using less and less as the years go by, I want to know what tool is best (or priced best based on my use case) and I’ll buy it. I have corded DeWalt, Ridgid, Milwaukee, Makita, and a handful of other brands, the non-color-match doesn’t bother me at all.
But when I was transitioning from a hobbyist to a pro tool user 12-13 years ago and starting to push my Ryobi gear to and past its limits, I did a ton of research with the idea of picking one high-end brand and sticking to it – coincidentally that’s how I found ToolGuyd. After a little while sorting through some ‘shill-ier’ tool sites, this is the only one I still regularly check in with more than a decade later. Big thanks for what you do, Stuart!
Anyway, as a younger guy on an entry-level pay scale, buying into a single platform with maybe a $500-800 starter kit was no small investment, and the annual-ish “which cordless tool brand is best” posts that had been going for a few years at that point were immensely helpful. Even now, with budget and room in my truck for multiple batteries/chargers, I wouldn’t want to be juggling more than the 3 batteries/2 chargers (M18, M12, still some Ryobi for less-used tools) that I have.
MFC
While it’s not about reciprocating saws, I would like an in-depth battery test. This would require similarly specced tests from circular saws, reciprocating saws, and drills (being guaranteed to be available in every single brand out there). Batteries tend to die more often than tools, and a good battery system is going to help newcomers gravitate towards one system over another.
My testing as a contractor has found that M12 batteries are reliable and long lasting, along with 2-5 amp hour 18v batteries from DeWalt and Milwaukee. Ryobi batteries are all garbage and DeWalt/Milwaukee batteries 6-15ah have half the lifespan as the 2-5ah batteries. Of course I rarely ever used the ryobi batteries, so not using them may have made them die sooner, and maybe their newer batteries are better, but I’d like an article on what you’ve found over the years. Subjective opinions are fine too. Because even if you haven’t put tons of hours on your batteries, I’m sure you’ve still had some bad ones in that time.
Stuart
I have looked into this, and it is extremely cost-prohibitive to test batteries with high repeatability and control at the amperage draw needed to simulate demanding tool use and application patterns.
We can compromise on certain factors, but the data would be meaningless.
Regarding anecdotal reporting, batteries are quietly updated on occasion, with no obvious batch numbering. What was true about a battery manufactured last year might not be true about one made this year.
I’ve encountered bad batteries from most brands, but there were no clear standouts. Flex was the only brand where I encountered a battery that was DOA, at least in recent memory, but it was a new production and could have been quickly corrected or a fluke.
This is something where community input is vital. Maybe we can have a poll or similar.
MFC
Yes, I understand that to test batteries to your satisfaction would require a lot of time and effort. I guess I would just like your view into the various platforms, along with your experiences, anecdotal or objective.
A poll could be very helpful, but it would have to be a fairly in-depth poll and have to separate the occasional users from the daily users. And with the many different platforms and batteries it could turn into quite an extensive poll. Still, if you could “pull” it off the data could be quite helpful.
Dave (not here)
I can appreciate that it would be both cost-prohibitive and time-consuming to test batteries, but I still think it’s a salient point.
To MFC’s example, I concur the base level Ryobi batteries are garbage but I find the “Lithium+” (grey with black trim vs black with grey trim) deliver a considerable boost in both power and longevity. I’ve also sadly experienced more premature failure with high-amperage M18 batteries like the older 12.0s – that’s particularly disappointing because of the considerably higher cost to pack that extra power into a single pack. The again, I don’t want to be swapping packs every 10 minutes when running hungry tools like OPE.
Maybe a poll on user experiences would be informative here. It might stand by itself to identify specific brands/packs that have exceptional/disreputable performance and identify a few to drill down on, maybe exploring the 18650/21700 cells themselves that power the packs (in standalone use I’m a fan of LGs like the HG2, okay with Samsungs like 25R, disappointed with the price for the Sony VTC series)…
Maybe this is all too wonky or requires too deep a dive for ToolGuyd purposes, but I still think battery reliability is a big part of choosing a platform for those of us who go all-in versus taking the mix-and-match approach.
Stuart
It comes down to cost, space, time, and effort.
Just with respect to time/effort, let’s say we want 500 charge-discharge cycles. 5 cycles per day x 5 days a week means it’d take 100 days. If you figure 20 days a month, that’s 5 months. What if we want to test to 1000 cycles?
Let’s say we want to test 5x of 3 different sizes/types of batteries from 4 different brands. That’s 60 batteries. What about 6 brands, each with 5 different sizes of batteries? Even if we reduce the sample size to 3 per battery, that’d be 90 batteries.
Testing things any faster or harder would require controlled safety chambers and an industrial space. Testing batteries concurrently would requite multiple stations.
Are the batteries being recharged on chargers? That’ll require a lot of labor. Programmable DC power supplies? That’ll require a lot more equipment.
All of that is on top of extensive setup costs and self-training.
Maybe some day, but it’s not practical for one person to undertake. Can we compromise? Sure, but not without losing confidence in the data, results, or conclusions.
I’ve thought this through a couple of times, and invested in lower-powered loads and power supplies. (Don’t worry, they’re still used on occasion and have come in handy.)
Testing individual cells won’t tell much; battery pack engineering is extremely important.
Goodie
I’ve found your articles on battery tech from the major brands to be pretty informative. The multiple articles you’ve done on DeWalt’s PowerStack and their new battery branding have been great. The Milwaukee battery articles also. Educating users on how the tech is marketed (PowerStack, HO, Lithium Red – all of it being word-salad marketing speak) is already yeoman’s work and something I look to this site to decode for me.
Something that stood out in a post you made was an assertion that SBD (DeWalt), Milwaukee, Bosch and (I think I remember this correctly) German Metabo (Cordless Alliance System) are the brands pushing batteries forward. This was based on your knowledge, research and interaction with those company’s PR offices. I like this sort of qualitative, subject journalism from someone who thinks about this deeply and is unafraid to speak their opinion. The tool companies are spending large sums on their battery tech and their own testing efforts. You’re not going to beat them at that. Instead, evaluating their claims probably matters more in the real world than putting a “performance lab” together.
I also remember reading that you wrote the Metabo HPT battery tech isn’t cutting edge, but seems to work for them in the real world. I would 100% agree with that. I’ll leave a little performance on the table for a simplicity’s sake in my tools.
Greg
I just want to know which tool is the best in each brand.
Example if Dewalt flex volt 60 V is the best saw in their line I would like to know it or I would like to know which Makita is their best saw. With Milwaukee, it’s very confusing to have a lot of different Sawzall‘s.
Then once I know which tool is the top one within the brand, I’ll just keep an eye out for it if it goes on sale or clearance.
Rx9
My own experience mirrors some of the comments above in that I find myself reaching for my one-handed reciprocating saw over the two handed variant. The ability to use a free hand to control the work piece is a major advantage. Another great advantage is close-quarters maneuverability.
Alexk
Unless I was working demolition regularly, the vibration reduction, ergonomics etc. between brands isn’t something I take into consideration. All the big tool names generally make great tools. I wanted the best model in my battery system even though a more basic one would do the job. Don’t want to deal with buyers regret. My budget is tight but I want the best tools in my system.
The majority of my tools were bought during holiday or special sales. Super Sawsall – reg price $249, I paid $199 and with a free battery it was like getting the saw for a hundred or so. My fuel 7 1/4 circ was same price and deal.
Everything but my tracksaw was bought during a sale, so I have what is/were the top of the line at the time.
I would love to pick and choose the best tools out there, but it’s not practical for me.
Alexk
I have the m12 fuel hacksall. It has underwhelmed me when cutting wood or metal. I’ll give it a try with the high output battery, but if I need a one hander, I’ll have to get the 18v.
eddiesky
The Milwaukee M18 is half the price of the Makita AVT XGT 40v…(no batts).
However, I’ve used Makita Reciprocating saw (AVT) and would again. The blade switch out is clever and quick. The 1 1/8″ stroke is ideal. Also it makes a deal using the correct and good blades with it.
If I’m doing demolition all day, the Makita is the one. IF I am just notching out for jamb or truss/stud fits, or a quick pipe cut, the M18 would be fine. As I also have Dewalt, it comes down to price. If one is $20 or more difference, I’d go with the cheaper. Unfortunately, I do not have ANY Makita cordless (XGT or otherwise).
So it would be a pricey kit to go Makita.
A. Smith
If you ever have to cut out an old, steel schedule 40 pipe, on a dirt floor crawl space, then you’ll instantly recognize the value in having anti-vibration technology (AVT) incorporated into a reciprocating saw. Back in the day (yes, I’m getting that old to say that), when a 1.7 amp lithium-ion battery was top-of-the-line, you were just hoping one battery had enough juice to make the cut. Of course, if the recip’s shoe was just slightly off canted, then every single loose filling you had, when fall straight out of your mouth, because the vibration was that intense.
Consequently, that life experience has engrained in me the value of AVT, thus I spent the big bucks to buy the best reciprocating saw on the market, the same Makita AVT that you have Stuart
JR Ramos
Years ago a DeWalt rep suggested to us purchasing agents and later a group of our salespeople that some tools did not get the attention to ergonomics and vibration reduction because they were not typically long trigger-time tools in use and on job sites. For some companies this is important and just as with hearing protection they’ll limit exposure and duration depending on the metrics. I know Bosch has always paid attention to this (not just because they’re nice and care about users but because it’s an important aspect of trades and industry when making tooling choices). So…that said, maybe give a couple of Bosch recips a tryout and see if they still bother you when used for longer periods.
The Bosch one-hander 18v is really impressive with its low vibration – it’s what got me to buy into a third platform because it was a great tool and I got it for a song and steal of a price including the promo battery/charger deal. If you don’t absolutely need or want the full size saws and their longer strokes, this Bosch one-hander is certainly worth considering. It has a 13/16″ stroke. Normally a shorter stroke reciprocating action can be more challenging to counterbalance and reduce vibration without resorting to a bulkier or more expensive mechanism, but they did it really well with this tool. I think it may have been a Bosch corporate video some time in the past, but supposedly the angled motors on the one-handers work to reduce vibration compared to the in-line designs of full size saws even though the distance from grip to action is much greater. One-handers are almost half the weight of full size saws, too, which is nice. They have some minor drawbacks but generally they get the same jobs done really well. No adjustable shoes on any of them if that’s a feature you appreciate.
If memory serves I think that odd ergo older Bosch saw was the lowest in vibration of anything else currently available (the old PC TigerSaw may have bested it). Heavy beast, though. The newest Bosch inline full size it decent but feels maybe just slightly less in vibration than other good saws. No idea about the Metabo or Festool. I don’t think anyone publishes this info anymore but I *think* the Bosch one-hander was measured at something like 8 (metric units of vibration…) and the older inline was around 35 while that ergo first responder saw was 14 or something. Maybe emailing some contacts could yield engineering numbers and help you compare.
As for “best”….I always look for best…best for me. It can mean so many things to different people and one feature or aspect may make it best for Joe but doesn’t mean a flip to Jack (like the orbital feature discussed lately for recips here). I’m not opposed to buying into a new platform if something elsewhere is really the best and I might benefit from it…as long as the buy-in pricing is reasonable and the competing models in my platforms or others just don’t come close to the “best.” For so many things, they’ll all get the job done, so trying to label one as best just depends (and sometimes there really isn’t a best, or not by much). I bought into the Bosch platform not because that first tool was best or better, but because it was a stellar economic buy, but then it opened some doors for other great tools they have and several are actually best-er than the other two platforms I had been using (and still use). It’s worth the hassle wrangling different packs and chargers, imho.
J . Newell
“Do you guys care about which tools are best? Or are you mainly sticking within your chosen cordless power tool platforms?”
Yes and yes, which got me thinking about this issue that had mostly faded out of real interest for me. My answers are different for our primary home and a second home on an island off the coast of Maine.
I think that some tools are either so much better than their competitors or are unique in a product niche that I would buy them regardless of battery system. As an example of the first category, for my uses the Festool OMT with its right-angle attachment is so good and so unique that I would buy it even if I had no other Festool cordless tools, though I’m not sure whether I’d say the same if I made my living with tools (would depend on how often I used an OMT and for what jobs).
The little M12 delta detail sander is a recent example of the second. I have a *lot* of M12 tools, but even if I didn’t I think I’d buy that sander and a couple of batteries regardless.
Both of those categories are limited scope, by definition, I think. Mostly I think that among the top brands the only real differences show up mostly on paper. Example: the latest M18 7.25″ circular saw. This looks to be a literal beast that needs so much current that even most of the larger M18 batteries sag under load with this saw. But for most of us, does the crazy power that this saw offers make any difference at all? I think there are lots of examples of this.
Nevertheless, at home, as a DIY user, the penalties of having multiple battery platforms doesn’t seem very significant. If I ran a business, and especially if I had a bunch of people working for me, I think I’d change my mind about that in a flash, though.
And my battery platform “sloppiness” at home hasn’t translated to our other home, where all the cordless tools are on a single platform. There are some significant benefits to keeping things simple when you are a dozen miles offshore with real limits on access to normal retail channels.
FWIW, I completely agree on the battery test issues. Doing that correctly for even one brand would be a full time job – probably for more than one person – and would need a lot of equipment…and tools. Trying to do that well across multiple platforms would probably literally need to be an independent lab with quite a few employees, and I’m not sure how you’d fund it. Web and YT ads wouldn’t provide enough cash for that.
Plain+grainy
I like my Flexvolt models.
Apsynt
I used to place much more worth on “best in class” but I got over it. It’s a neverending game and unnecessary shopping stress.
Personally I am heavily invested in LXT with over 30 machines and 15 batteries, and so far they have served my needs just fine, even if the particular tool isn’t the “best”.
I also don’t want to have too many battery systems. With Makita 18v and Mafell 18v all my needs are taken care of so far, especially as Metabo and Prebena use the same CAS system, should I want any of their stuff in the future.
Only reason for XGT would be if I was shopping for some garden or heavy construction tools
John S
I love the XGT line- across the line they make the best or close to it for every application. But like the author I just as often reach for a LXT, M18, or MetaboHPT version of whatever tool I need.
Bob
I used to have 3 or 4 brands of cordless tools, but got tired of doing the battery shuffle.
I settled on DeWalt, and gave the rest away to save on the battery mess. Still, if a new non-DeWalt tool comes out that is *significantly* better than DeWalt, I’ll get it. I still have my DeWalt XR recip saw, nothing is THAT much better to justify a change.
After a few years of DeWalt only, I now have 3 non-DeWalt tools: A Milwaukee M12 Dremel style rotary grinder, a Milwaukee M12 90 Deg. die grinder, and a Makita 40V push mower. DeWalt had none of the 3 when I bought them and frankly, I don’t like any of them.