A reader recently mentioned quick-connect adapters for power tool cords, and yesterday when I spoke to Benjamen he brought up a video he remembered seeing which discussed the same.
Here’s the general idea: instead of working with x-number of power tools each with their own power cords, you cut or more elegantly remove their power cords and attach a quick-connect tail instead. Then, you build one or more wall-pluggable connectors to serve as the power cord.
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In a recent video by Marius Hornberger, embedded below, he shows off how he removed the power cords to his tools to create a quick connection system.
Some brands’ tools have removable cords, but only Festool comes to mind in having a brand-wide standard.
Milwaukee’s Quik-Lok removable power cord was featured on some of their tools. The only one I’ve seen was a circular saw, but I’m sure there are others.
Festool’s corded tools have a twist-on connector. Owning a couple of Festool tools, I can tell you that it works pretty well. If I’m using several tools for a project, I’ll often have the power cord plugged into the dust collector, and swap tools as needed, rather than keeping a power cord attached to all of the tools being used. It’s rare for me to use each tool at the same time or even back and forth.
In his video, Marius uses Neutrik powerCON True1 connectors, which is one of very many different types of connectors that Neutrik offers. For instance, right next to my keyboard I have a Neutrik pass-thru USB connector that I had recently ordered for an upcoming build.
Neutrik powerCON True1 connectors feature:
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- Breaking capacity (CBC)
- Chuck-type strain relief
- IP65 water/dust resistance
- VDE-certified according to IEC 60320
- UL-recognized
- 250Vac max
- Lockable 16A single phase connector (20A in USA)
- Unique duplex chassis connector with inlet and outlet
- 6-12mm cable outer diameter range
- 12AWG wiring
- -30°C to 80°C operating range
You can get more specs from Mouser, or Neutrik directly.
The breaking capacity means that it can be connected or disconnected under load, which suggests you can disconnect something that’s running. You can’t, or shouldn’t, do that with other connectors, though. Some of Neutrik’s other connectors specifically advise against this.
This connector system as a “twist to lock” mechanism.
I have seen other options before, and there are certainly cheaper ways to implement a quick-release modular cord system on your power tools. But this looks like the most promising that I’ve seen.
It’s $9 per connector, and you’ll need one per tool plus one for a power cord. You might also need some cabling to build your own cords – that’s something I haven’t looked into yet, but a heavy duty extension cable might be a good place to start.
The “duplex chassis connector with inlet and outlet” refers to a 2-power appliance connector. In addition to connectors that attach to power cords, and a few options of pre-connected adapters, Neutrik has “chassis” connectors that allow you to build lockable connectors to AC-powered equipment. I only mention this because for those building their larger own power tools or accessories, this modular quick connect system might look even more attractive.
For those of you still rocking corded portable tools, is this something you would consider doing?
Clayton
Just watched this video and I’m also absolutely planning to do this or use IEC connectors to achieve the same thing!
Bellevue woodshop did this with IEC connectors a while back – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=im1HF7HEz7g
I’m curious what other connectors people have found that might work even better to achieve this system.
Tom
I would not remove the strain relief, as he did in the video.
The method in the Bellevue video is tempting, though.
Tom
Big fan of Neutrik connectors for audio (XLR, Speakon, etc.). They’ve become a real standard there. They’re power connectors are very nice too. The chuck strain relief is great.
The anal part of me really likes this. I can realistically see doing this for a fixed set of tools that commonly get used at the same workstation (especially paired with dust collection as in that Bellevue video posted above). I do see benefits to doing it more broadly (locking connection, never wind a cord around a tool again, etc.), but I also see potential issues with that big solid mass hanging off the back of some tools and I’m not sure it’s worth the time and cost.
Another nice benefit in a shared workspace – no one steals your extension cord 🙂
Jim Felt
This so reminds me of industrial tool users preferring hydraulic v. air to virtually stop theft. Stanley Hydraulic comes to mind. Versus every funky brand of air tool including the ever flawed HF.
That said with these the value is also the tool short “cords” store so much easier and then the “real” cords can come in any lengths imaginable.
Hmmmm.
fred
With pneumatic tools at the workbench and spray guns in the booth – we usually paired them with a swivel connector and a short whip hose that we could plug into the main hose off of an overhead reel.
Your point about tool theft is well-taken – but my experience is that even tools so specialized that they would have little or no conceivable use to an individual – and would be probably hard t sell – still disappeared. I often joked that it was a result of the inferior steel and plastics used in tols made these days – since they evaporated (sublimed actually) into thin air.
Pat
I love this idea. Absolutely love it. I can’t decide if having a connector being that long would drive me crazy though. I’ve gone back and forth on it a few times already just watching the video…
Stuart
If I did that to my tools, I would likely give them a longer “tail” before installing the adapter – say 8-12″.
fred
Interesting. You might need to make them with different gauge wires for some tools.
The Milwaukee Quik-Lok cords come in14, 16 and 18 gauge. Their 48-76-5110 is 10ft long 14/3 and came with the 6394-21 circular saw, Their 48-76-4008 is 8 foot long 18/3 and comes with some of their drills – like the 0234-6. They also sell others:
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/accessories/miscellaneous?product+types=Power+cords+and+side+handles
The Festool Plug-It cords seem to come in 16 and 18 gauge. I think my track saw uses a 16ga. while my Domino machine uses an 18ga.
Nathan
Other than wanting to make a locked on cord to a power tool I don’t see the point.
I mean you can now hang your tool by the cord – which I was always taught you shouldn’t do – but now it won’t unplug and will hang off.
I might do something like that for outdoor stuff – like my hedge clippers and blower vac – so as to lock the cord down when in use – but I’m probably moving to cordless on that soon.
Now as someone mentioned about packing up the tools – I could see putting that on my grinder, sawzall, etc – and having one or 2 extension cords rigged for it. but again that seems like extra work for little gain. I say that however I’m the same moron that has brash QC connectors on all my water hoses and hose attachments.
would totally want something in gages – so as to use my heavy 12 gage long cord. And I’d probably keep one or 2 of those ends to make a reverse adaptor (for the tools that wouldn’t have the connector on them)
Nathan
so I guess I must be doing it wrong – my garage only has some many power outlets now – so I have a strip on my one workbench – and I keep 2 extension cords plugged in on the other sides – and I just plug into either of them when I use something – in the garage. the one extension cord is on a reel – so when I use something out of the garage I often cart that with me too. hmm – maybe I’m doing it wrong. I do agree on the storage idea though
fred
There was a time when some low-end drills (maybe other tools too) came with stubby cords. It was obviously so the price point could be set low – but the advertising claimed that it was a benefit to have a more compact package and since you probably needed an extension cord anyway – blah blah blah.
Here’s a picture of one – sold by Rockwell as their green plastic homeowner line – not to be confused with their professional line (Rockwell Porter Cable) – the eBay listing has it incorrectly:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Porter-Cable-Rockwell-Greenline-1-4-Variable-speed-Drill/132161717992
I think Black and Decker had a similar offering.
Stuart
My Dad’s was like that.
I bought him a Milwaukee M18 to replace it, but I don’t think he’s used it yet.
Tom
Other random question – we’re all talking about the connector, but why not just short pigtail cords with standard grounded plug? I’ve got one tool (a cheap Toro blower/vac) that has a <12in cord that's just long enough to tie onto an extension cord. Works great.
fred
I had a B&D BV1500 leaf blower – that had had that same setup – with a shielded male plug on a pigtail. My wife liked it – because she didn’t like our Echo gasoline-engine blower. I believe that strain relief on the BV1500 was not up to snuff – and I recall having to fabricate a better one to keep the pigtail from constantly wanting to pull out of the plastic handle. She sold it at a garage sale – after she moved over to a B&D NiCad cordless that she bought on a whim some years ago (and now admits is rather wimpy) – so I may need to buy her one of the new crop to add to her Christmas list.
Nathan
I love my echo cordless 58 volt stuff – but the blower is a blower only – not a vac. which I find odd. but the trimmer can run a pole saw, and the chain saw is more than powerful enough
Jim Felt
Tom. Good observation. Our electric Toros do as well.
That said they aren’t click lock in any way. And the only locking conventional size 16 to 12 AWG locking plugs are pretty huge. Male and female. To me at least their size is too great to be practical except on a leaf blower et all.
Stuart
You probably can do it that way too.
firefly
Beside storage I don’t see the point either. The click lock Neutrik connector is pretty cool though. I like them.
Benjamen
I started a topic over on the forum: https://discuss.toolguyd.com/t/quick-change-power-cords/830 where I posted a couple of photos of what I have done.
I’ve cut the cords on some of my rolling tools because having a tail hanging from the tool when you are rolling it around the shop is a good way to get it caught or roll over the cord and damage it . I replaced the cords with an instead plug where I can just plug an extension cord into the tool
I’m not entirely sure that I’m sold on this idea. Having just got the Pro 5 sander from Festool, I have to admit the Festool removable cord is a good idea and well executed, but it’s built into the tool body, not on a pigtail. It seems to me that it would be just like having a giant annoying ferrite hanging from the tool.
ktash
That’s what I got when I saw the picture, a giant annoying ferrite, you put it into words. I have a couple of Festool tools and like the system they have, plus my DeWalt 618 router also has this type of plug. I like it when it’s built in and wish more tools were designed like this. They fit neatly into shelves, systainers, etc. But with the pigtail type thing, I don’t see much advantage for me and the way I work.
ca
I don’t know, regular cords seem like they already connect pretty quickly…
ca
Plus these things look and sound pretty fragile. What happens if I step on one?
Rob
If you step on one, you’ll say, “ouch”.
I soldered up many a neutrik connectors in my youth.
You have nothing to worry about.
Matthew Steele
I’ve used PowerCon connectors for years on mobile audio racks. It has fast become the industry standard for 110v/15-20a distribution in mobile AV environments. Makes total sense to try them on power tools too.
Pete
Im not a fan of how he got rid of the strain releif. Seems like the tool would have MORE strain with a connector that close.
Cool idea but not for me at this time.
Rob
Yes, ridding of the strain relief = cringe.
Unless, it’s a new fangled ball hinge design,
you don’t want the cable twisting at the terminals.
John S
Its also disheartening to see people removing the ferrule sleeve from these tools on the ones configured with them on the cord and not built in the body someplace. Hopefully they are reintroducing that on the connecting plug side. That is there to prevent (reduce) the electrical motor noise from being sent back into the house on the return.
malzww
I would’ve at minimum put a zip tie or two behind the little wood ‘retainer’.
This is the first article I found when attempting to fit some trim routers and sanders in my new storage boxes all neatly with kaizen foam. lol.
Ian Random
According to Big Clive, this test block was a popular way to connect tools. The only problem is it isn’t keyed, which can make for fun.
https://www.reddit.com/r/electronics/comments/3a06ff/where_can_i_get_one_of_these_mains_test_blocks/
Hilton
I’m just about to order three of the locking version of the IEC C13 connectors to make into an extension cable. I will then use normal IEC C14 ends to attach to my various power tools with a short pigtail.
http://www.ieclock.com/technical-information/c13-iec-lock-rewireable/
You guys in the States have it easy. Here we have to contend with the round three prong 15A South African plug, 2 prong Euro plug, 20 prong German Shucko plug and the square three prong UK plug. You should see what a mess our multi-plug adapters look like!
Jim Felt
Hilton.
Post a photo link! Really.
I’m curious.
Thanks!
Joachim Geeraert
This. This seems to best the solution if you want most advantages without the cost of the Neutrik connectors. IEC C14 connectors can be had for $4 for a 10(!)pack on aliexpress. Buy a few “IEC C13 lock” cables on ebay and you’re set for less than $100 whether you have 10 or 50 tools to convert.
Lance
These PowerCon connectors are fantastic! I’ve used them for a block heater setup on the front of my car, and three years later the connectors are still working perfectly! The front of a car in Canada is a brutal environment, by the way.
Agree this is a fantastic idea for a workshop, and would also be great on the jobsite to make your tools much less attractive to others.
I would leave 8-10″ of cable and all factory strain relief, though.
I got my Neutrik stuff through parts express, which is also a handy resource for all kinds of electrical doo-dads.
billiam
I guess I am not understanding the aversion to cutting the cord and leaving the tool itself untouched. Unless, it is time for a cord replacement anyway……
Stuart
I think the idea is to preserve the power cord in case it’s needed, such as for resale or warranty claim.
billiam
I guess I see fiddling with the tool as more of a risk to voiding warranty. I did not think about resale. But, I can see the point.
Nikola
Nice idea, love your page, Just to share this video of multioutlet I found Wellington on EU, on case if you ever run over your connected tool with your truck ?
https://youtu.be/z2U4tuANR5Q
Cheers from Croatia
Nikola
Sorry for Wellington my tablet keyboard is set to stupid 🙂
it should be selling in EU
Mark
I owrked under houses for years doing seismic retofitting. I used midge twist-locks to create a whole system of extension cords, splitters and junction boxes and replace all the tool plug ends (having long cords which oten got wrapped aound body parts and other things was terrible).
I was always disappointed that the industry never got together on a standard similar to the Miilwaukee twist lock, which I only had on a Sawzall. Which eliminated both the long cord problem the regular replacement of cords as strain relief gave way to ruined cards.
Neil
I have a very old reciprocating saw from Milwaukee built in the early 90’s (has a metal box). It has the quick loc system. My dad ordered a 10 foot cord and a 6 footer. They are still ins great condition but I thoughti t was the coolest thing ever. Every time a contractor comes over with a destroyed power cord I think of that system and how clever it was – as long as you didn’t lose the cord
Alick
I have been doing this for 25 years with Hirschman industrial connectors, available in the UK from RS components.
https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/industrial-power-connectors/1030917/
The hirschman connectors are rated 10 amps at 250vac so they cover most of my power tools. They are slimmer and shorter than the neutriks which matters, have rubber sealing gaskets which make them dust proof and suitable for general outdoor use, good cable glands and the female line socket has a latching metal clip that stops them pulling apart.
Use a high quality H07 rubber flex and the cords last forever.
As Marius found out in his video, you need to leave a little flex between the tool and the plug or the connectors make the tool unwieldy. I just cut my original cords short and fit the new plug. 6 inches of flex is about right for a router. 3″ was fine on the jigsaw. Sometimes I leave the original cord quite long if the inline connector would be continually dragging over the edge of the tabletop in use. This reduces some of the benefit but my kit is all compatible with the same set of cords.
Attach a Hirschman plug to normal multiway socket strip and any of my extension cords can feed unmodified tools if needed.
And the power cord can be taped or clipped to an extraction hose just like Festool and Mirka do, or
using a hard wall rubber flex, the power cord can even be run inside the extraction hose feeding in and out through a hole near each end before the line socket is attached – an electrical equivalent of Mirka’s coaxial air hose / extraction hose. Easier handling and fewer snags.
Nick Marques
Neutrik is awesome. I pretty much deal with their connectors exclusively when it comes to my full time job, in the entertainment industry.
Parts Express may be cheaper for connectors, and you could also get some panel mount connectors to make a bench receptacle.
https://www.parts-express.com/Search.aspx?keyword=powercon%20True1&sitesearch=true
Ben
I watched the Hornberger video a couple days ago. I have a saw (ShopSmith Mark 7) which has a motor capable of running 120V 15A or 240V 7A and switches automatically depending upon the circuit voltage. I have two locations where I will use it. At home I have a 240V outlet where as the other location is not someplace where I would be allowed to run a 240V so need to run the saw on a 120V. For me, the connectors offer me a way to use both 120V and 240V in different locations. I “could” make up am extension with 5-15 female and 6-20 male plugs, put if someone unknowingly used that extension, it probably wouldn’t be a happy outcome.
Not really convinced that cutting the cords on my corded tools and replacing them with these connectors would achieve anything for me. If I wanted to have shorter cords on my 120V tools, as was mentioned, I’d just cut the extra length and install a 5-15 plug. If I was worried about the connection coming apart, I’d just connect the cords in a figure 8 so nothing comes unplugged.
Jason
I have done this to my power tools about 5 years ago to save on space in the L boxx 4 they are housed in. One 25″ cord is used for all tools. This set up makes for a cleaner work area and you know your tools will be there being that no one can borrow them on the job site. A huge plus