So, it seems that Ridgid has come out with a new 10″ sliding miter saw. A corded miter saw. That’s rare these days, but there are some noteworthy features.
Ridgid says that their new 10″ dual bevel sliding miter saw, R4210, sports the industry’s widest miter range on a saw of this size, with a 70° max miter angle.
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Question: What do you think a 50-70° miter angle comes in handy for?
The Ridgid R4210 has a 15A motor, 4500 RPM no-load speed, and 90° cut capacity of 12″ for 2x material. It can handle baseboard of 6″ against the fence, and crown molded up to 6-5/8″ nested. 45° cut capacity is 8″ for 2x material.
There’s an LED cutline indicator and work light, which projects a shadow at the cut location. Popularized by Dewalt, this has become an almost must-have miter saw feature for me. Since the cutline indicator is the shadow cast by the blade, it never needs alignment, and it “auto-adjusts” to the kerf of different blades.
A blade brake helps speed up the time between cuts.
Price: $349
Buy Now(via Home Depot)
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First Thoughts
At first glance, I thought this was a Ridgid version of last year’s new AEG cordless brushless miter saw. But it’s not. It’s a corded 10″ sliding miter saw.
The saw has been out for a couple of months now, and the user reviews on HomeDepot.com seem to be overwhelmingly positive.
I know what some of you are going to be asking. You’re going to say something along the lines of “who cares about a corded saw, why I can’t I buy the cordless miter saw right now!”
The Ridgid 18V 7-1/4″ miter saw, previewed here, and also posted about here when it was deeply discounted, has not been available. I’m told that it cannot be found in stores, and the online listing comes back with a “product not found” error message.
When I asked Ridgid about this, 7 weeks ago, I was told that the saw was temporarily out of stock. That still seems to be the case.
Maybe Ridgid is planning on a dual-battery 10″ sliding miter saw, like the AEG version that’s been out for a year. I can’t say.
But, let’s focus on this saw. If you’re in the market for a 10″ sliding miter saw, would this one fit the bill? What if this saw was converted into an 18V cordless model? Are there features you would want added? Anything changed?
Also, yes, I know that this saw has been on the market for a few months. Well, I know that now. But the press release just hit my inbox. I find myself both surprised and unsurprised that a new corded miter saw flew under my radar for so long.
Hans
I don’t understand the thing about everything cordless. I get how it helps everyone not having to haul cords and all, but only few professionals benefit from the added manoeuvrability vs. the decreased power or runtime.
Especially with tools like this, why a cordless miter for home or small-professional use? You’re already hauling a beast of a machine, what’s the issue with carrying an extension cord with it?
Tim D.
Agreed. This seems like it would only benefit you when there is no power to be had, or power is limited and access to the plugs is being fought over. I don’t see cordless miter saws benefiting most homeowners, but that doesn’t mean that they won’t want it just because it’s available.
Stuart
Maybe I should have talked a bit more about my stance.
There are definitely benefits in going with corded miter saws. But there are fewer reasons for buying a 10″ sliding miter saw these days.
10″ saws are often smaller and lighter than 12″ saws, but a sliding mechanism adds to the size, weight, and cost.
I could justify using or buying the following types of miter saws: 7-1/4″ sliding, 10″, 12″, 12″ sliding.
10″ sliders are appealing for cordless conversion, because you get reasonable capacity, and they can be powered using 18V battery packs. There is one cordless 12″ sliding miter saw on the market – Dewalt’s FlexVolt model, and it requires 2x 60V Max battery packs to operate.
This new saw, at $350, is $50 less than Ridgid’s 12″ sliding miter saw. I find myself wondering why I’d opt for this new 10″ saw over that 12″ slider, or a smaller saw if I didn’t need the capacity.
It does have a 10″ blade size, which I like. There’s greater blade style variety with 10″ saws than 7-1/4″, and they’re less expensive than 12″ blades. Plus. certain blades can also be used in table saws, doubling their versatility.
But for most users, that’s not a concern or priority.
In today’s day and age, every new corded release should offer clear advantages, or at least distinctions.
It’s notable that this saw has the same 70° miter range as Ridgid’s R4221 12″ slider. But I would have expected to see a bigger difference in price. Perhaps the R4221’s current price of $399 will be fleeting, and it’ll soon return to its stated regular price of $499, in which case the $349 price of this 10″ model will become much more appealing.
But without strong answers to the “who should buy this today?” question, I find myself a little disappointed that this is a corded model.
Besides the typical higher interest in cordless tools over corded these days, I have received by now maybe 2 dozen emails, asking about why the Ridgid 18V 7-1/4″ cordless miter saw isn’t available anywhere. These are all people who want to buy that saw, but cannot. I was hoping that this new saw was cordless, as that might help explain the 7-1/4″ situation.
Randy Powell
Milwaukees been making a cordless miter saw for almost 2 years now lol
Stuart
Yes, I know. Respectfully, what’s your point?
fred
So here’s my two cents worth:
Cent #1: Angles greater than 45 degrees (like 60 degrees can be helpful for things like table legs – where you want a particular splay angle. Or when making a 30-60-90 triangle – but of course 60 degrees from 90 degrees is 30 – so you often can flip things around. Making a triangular shim that holds the work at 15 degrees off of the backstop then setting the saw at 45 is another way to go.
Cent#2: There are legitimate benefits of both corded and cordless tools. Working off of ladders, a roof on staging makes dragging and snaking a power cord a particular nuisance and safety concern. Cordless tools come with less of a potential electric shock issue associated with cords strung in wet environments (although you should be using GFCI protected circuits, outlets or cords.) I suspect that there are reasons for manufacturers pushing cordless tools beyond the obvious marketplace demand. Manufacturers, for the most part, do not have eleemosynary motives. I’m guessing that selling proprietary batteries is more profitable than selling corded tools. Developing and marketing new battery platforms, higher Amp-hr. ratings, brushless motors etc. both enhances usefulness and applicability of cordless tools – as well as sales revenue. Gone are the days of holding onto a corded tool until it died. Good or bad – some tool buyers may get caught up in all the buzz – deciding that they can only do good work if they have the latest and greatest cordless technology. IMO – good work stems as much or more from the training and skill of the worker as from the quality of the tools. Granted that bad tools may be incapable of producing great work – even in skilled hands – the constant churn in new tool buying (promoted as much by marketing as by technology advances) may not be cost effective for most of us. If I were back running a business, I might buy 1 cordless miter saw, keep the 20 or so corded one we had and then do a cot-benefit analysis on how much use the cordless saw got and what the crews thought about its performance and impact on productivity and safety.
fred
I meant to say cost-benefit – not “cot-benefit” – although a cot in the back office sometimes afforded some needed rest.
A W
Just learned a new word. Eleemosynary.
With the costs of cordless tools being generally higher (as an entire kit) the profit margin may be a little better, plus you lock in customers to your brand. When buying corded tools, I never cared what color it was, I just wanted solid performance at a reasonable price. Now that I have m18 batteries, I find myself with more and more loyal to red tools, even hand tools such as vice grips and tape measures.
Michaelhammer
Larger angle capacities are also quite handy for stair skirt boards and baseboard meeting stair skirt boards, corner boards meeting rakes, pork chops, cornices on dormers hitting the roof line, mitring bed molding on gables, cutting stakes for shoring walls and posts.
I notice that many saw reviews leave out an important spec, weight. If you’re hauling this thing around everyday, weight matters. Something to keep in mind also is footprint. That’s the real deciding factor between 10” and 12” saws. The increased capacity of a 12” saw typically is not worth the extra size and weight. On the rare occasions I need that capacity, I’ll just use one of my track saws. Very often a chop saw is hauled up two flights of stairs and set up in someone’s bedroom where every inch of space is a premium.
Unless I have money burning a hole in my pocket, I can’t see buying a cordless chop saw. For one, I want my dust extractor to be activated when I pull the trigger. Secondly, I want 100% power every time I pull the trigger. Why would I ever want to fool with even more batteries and more chargers on an already crowded worksite? I’ve set up chopsaws on staging with cords running to them. It’s really not an issue. The larger issue would be having to come down to change batteries.
Stuart
This a preview, not a review, but I agree about the weight.
Home Depot has a table spec listing of 47 lbs for “product weight,” but there’s no way to tell if they mean product weight or shipping weight. Table specs aren’t always fully accurate.
And even so, I’ve found that weight can be hard to comment on without first-person handling.
I remember testing 2 portable table saws. One was heavier but easier to carry than the other.
fred
What I can chime in with, is an observation that the Bosch GCM12SD’s that we bought (I have a personal one in my garage) is no one’s idea of an easy-carry saw. Even on its gravity rise stand its a bit of a beast to move around. It does fit closer to a wall – than did our Makita sliders. Bosch says it weighs 65 pounds.
Stuart
Their 10″ is also a large and heavy beast.
fred
Yep – sometimes I think that some 10 inch saws are almost just the 12 inch saw with a 10 inch blade and shroud – rather that a grounds-up design to be more compact. With the Bosch Glide mechanism – maybe there isn’t a way to save on much weight when dropping to 10 inches. It might even be that the saw could use some beefing up – because I’ve seen some folks saying that the glide mechanism develops slop with wear. I can say that I have not experience this with mine – but its relatively lightly used these days.
bob
Weight absolutely matters. If I were a pro, I would have a 7-1/4 or 8″ miter saw for moldings, and 12″ beast for framing. The trim saw would need double bevel, but no slide needed. Would want it very light and small, maybe cordless to quickly jump from room to room. The framing saw wouldn’t need double bevel, but would need a generous slide for occasionally cutting 2×12’s .
Kent
Exactly.
I don’t want to throw away my saw in 5 or 10 years because I can’t get batteries for it.
I’m not a professional, and rarely travel with a saw. That said, I put Rigid in the same category as Ryobi, Craftsman and other tools I don’t pay attention to.
KokoTheTalkingApe
My understanding was that cordless miter saws might be useful for finish contractors installing floor or ceiling moldings. They have to be mobile. Cordless miter saws are less useful for people like furniture builders, picture framers, etc., who don’t have to be mobile.
Ray
I would love to get my hands on one of these 10” miter saws but can’t find one anywhere ! I would settle for a nice used one at this point !!
Chris Petersen
This looks VERY similar to the Craftsman 10″ slider that came out a few years ago with the shallow footprint design. If so, should be a nice saw (I have the Craftsman and have been very happy with it). The LED cutline indicator was about the only thing that Craftsman saw didn’t have that I missed…
Nathan
I’d love to see a mitre saw review but there are others out there. I’m in the market for a new one and I’m leaning towards a 10 inch slider as I think that will do all I need and more easily fit in the space I have. I don’t think I need to cut anything 8+ inches vertically.
I don’t see a need for greater than 50 degree mitre angle. I would go past 45 only a bit to say 50 only to cover the spread a bit. Out past that you need to be able to do geometry.
I looked into this on line but have yet to see it in the store – I’m fairly intrigued by this model because it’s the only other saw I know of that uses the shadow line that isn’t a dewalt. OH and I realized I don’t do enough or use it enough to justify the cost of one of the cordless devices. As much as I like the flexvolt Idea I’m not dropping that sort of coin on a tool I use rarely and have to store somewhere in my garage. I’m not hauling out to a worksite everyday or the like.
It’s on my short list – with a HD coupon it’s probably the cheapest quality mitre saw out there. I can occasionally get a refurbished dewalt for less – and there are others like the hitachi but it has a laser line. and I’m not getting a HF model. The one I’m replacing is a non sliding ryobi model – and it still works but I want a new one with a slider and a better retention system
A W
You won’t be able to cut even close to 8″ vertically on a 10″ saw. The arbor is in the middle of the blade, so you’ll typically have 3-3.5″ vertical with a 10″ blade. I went with a 12″ DeWalt non slider as I wanted the ability to cut a 4 x 4 (3.5″ vertical) and didn’t want to sacrifice precision (simple rotating hinge) for greater board cutting capacity (sliders typically have a small amount of slop). Some 10″ s sliders will cut 3.5″ vertically, just be sure to check the specs.
fred
If you need to regularly cut 8 inch thick stock – a 22 inch RAS might do the trick. We had a big old Dewalt sitting in a corner of the shop – ( not much cordless opportunity here or yet anyway). I think ours had a 7.5hp motor and its maximum depth of cut was more like 6 inches.
My GCM12SD can cut 6 inch crown molding – but sitting against the fence at a 45 deg. spring angle. The say it can handle a 4 x 14 at 0 degrees / 0 bevel – so that’s a cut depth of 3-1/2 inches with its 12 inch blade. I’ve cut 4 x 4 s – but not 4 x 6 s or larger.
Trace
I have the previous version. Price, blade choice, and the ability to cut 6″ crown moulding, were my primary motivations. A lifetime warranty didn’t hurt. It doesn’t cut as wide an angle or have the shadow cut-line like the new one, but it does have a handle that works equally for left or right hand operation.
As for cordless cordless chop saws and table saws, purchase price, and the extra batteries you will need, significantly increase costs, and a battery charger still requires a power source. So, whats the advantage? The cord won’t get in the way during use? For stationary tools, that’s not much of an advantage.
Stuart
Cordless benefits: More portable, easier to use for homeowners who don’t have a lot of outlets in the garage or workshop, easier for pros to use when working somewhere where there’s a scarcity of outlets, no need for an extension cord to snake around.
Corded benefits: Lower cost of ownership, sometimes greater power (things are very grey these days), automatic dust collection triggering when used with compatible dust collector.
Taras
I would buy this, strictly because it’s 10″ and for the extra mitre range. I plan on building a few wooden boats and this would eliminate needing to use a mitre sled on a table saw
ktash
Corded works fine for my basement shop. It just sits in place there. Cordless would be an extra bother, with batteries to charge and the expense of batteries. Plus corded triggers my dust collector, cordless won’t do that, I’d have to turn it on separately each time.
For some tools, cordless is becoming almost a necessity. I have the cordless Ridgid trim router and love it. Hard to like corded routers any more, unless they live in a router table. Cord potentially getting in the way as you move the router. I wish they’d focus on midsize cordless routers.
10 inch also works fine for my shop. A bigger one takes more space and more power. Easier to move if needed.
The main feature I’d look for in a miter saw would be accuracy and degree of “slop” with the sliding feature. If a moderately priced saw was excellent in this regard I might be tempted to replaced my non-slider. The second feature would be decent dust collection. Only Festool does this, but why can’t a moderately priced saw be designed differently, though not necessarily Kapex-level. If it had both these features–accuracy and good dust control, I’d buy it immediately! These things are far more important than batteries to me. The shadow line would be an inducement, but I’d opt for those other two things first.
I own the Hitachi 10 inch non-slider. It was accurate out of the box, and under $100 on special. It has gotten consistently good reviews. It does what I need most of the time, 90 degree and angled cuts on 6″ or narrower boards. Sadly, the new company is making a different model from what I’ve heard.
OhioHead
I snagged the 10” Ryobi slider miter about 2 months ago for $129 (some HD’s have it @ $149 (2 or 3 weeks ago) throw a nice blade on it and it works very well in the prosumer market that Ryobi/Ridgid play in.
I prefer corded tools and my battery platform is M12, so an 18volt cordless miter is not an option.
OhioHead
My local Depot has the 10” Ryobi back to $199 – again a good saw for the prosumer w/ a good blade.
Nathan
So I guess I’ll pose a few questions related. As I said I’m in the market for a new one – not really going to buy soon but maybe within the year. So I’ve about convinced myself I need a sliding 10 incher. My reasoning – I have a 10 incher so I figure that’s all the diameter I need. But I want to slide it for that extra capacity and everywhere I turn on the TV DIY shows I see someone using some flavor of slider often a dewalt.
Now I like the 10 inch as the blade diameter is the same on my table saw – but that doesn’t mean the blades are optimized for that use. I purposely bought a diablo mitre saw 80 tooth blade and a 50 tooth combo blade recently. I wouldn’t trade them between machines as that’s not their purpose. But I have other general use 10 inch blades that I intend to use on both saws when using pressure treated.
Space I have to take down my work zone in the garage to park the cars in there – so a 10 inch slider takes a bit less room to store.
cost – again I’m not a trimmer by trade so I don’t know I need to invest in the 12’s
Cordless – again while I take down my shop I don’t know I need a cordless machine and if I had one – well it’s going to have to be a 10 or a 12 – regardless of which I have to invest in new batteries. My cordless stuffs is current dewalt though – but not flexvolt. cost though tells me I don’t need to think about cordless.
but slider vs stationary – am I giving up accuracy. would I be better off with a nonsliding 12? Finally – I’ve about decided regardless a feature I’m getting is the shadow cut line and a better hold down system – which almost everyone uses today. I already have a stand that is mostly universal so stands are part of my concern.
Stuart
Sounds like you’re due for a trip to the nearest home center. They should have a good sampling of corded and cordless saws, so you can see how big different miter saw sizes really are.
In my experience, and from what I’ve seen, 10″ sliders are smaller than 12″ sliders, but the differences are not always significant.
If you’re looking for a stationary miter saw, some models are more workshop-friendly than others. Such models might have better dust collection port placement, forward-sliding saw heads that allow for shallower workbench footprints, and things like that.
What size boards do you typically crosscut on a miter saw? The largest? Can you use the table saw for the larger corsscuts if they don’t fit on your new miter saw?
For a shadow cutline, that pretty much leaves you with Dewalt (some models), Milwaukee (cordless only), or Ridgid (some models).
Other brands still use lasers or nothing. I don’t think I’m leaving out any brands, but there might be a recent model I forgot about.
I don’t think I’ve heard of sliders compromising on accuracy, but they do add another component that might need maintenance over time. Realistically, that’s as marginal a factor as can be. The size and added weight of sliding saws, and their sometimes-challenged dust collection efficiency (or lack thereof) would be bigger tradeoffs.
Miter saws are tough to choose. A 12″ slider can tackle the largest cutting tasks. A 10″ slider has less capacity, but more than non-sliding 10″ and 12″ saws.
If you don’t anticipate having to cut a lot of crown molding, you could simplify things by looking at the 90° and maybe 45° cut capacity.
For my needs, I think I’d prefer a 10″ or 12″ non-slider over a 10″ slider, or a 12″ slider if I needed greater cutting capacity. But I can also use other tools to do what a 12″ slider can do, if we’re talking about simple miter, bevel, or cross cuts on flat stock.
No need to rush into your purchase – there are a few weeks of Father’s Day sales.
Reading your comment a 3rd time, you do mention that right now you have a 10″ saw. Have you ever felt its capacity to be lacking?
Also, I’m not trying to dissuade you. A 10″ slider might very well be the right saw for your needs. And if you want the shadow cutline indicator, well, this Ridgid just might be the best fit.
What I am trying to convey is that miter saws are a lot different in person than they appear on paper. When in doubt about sizing, almost nothing beats a real-life 3D perspective.
Garrick
Just doing some jobsite math:
And these are just estimates…
Time to unroll an extension cord and roll it back up: 3 minutes including plugging it in. That would be 15 minutes a week, or an hour a month. Over a 5 year period, that could be as much as 60 hours. At $30 an hour that would be $1800.
Subtract the time it takes to plug batteries into a charger and reattach them to a saw each day… say one minute. So the difference is 2 minutes a day. That would still be a savings of $1200 worth of labour time over the life of the saw.
The added cost of batteries to a saw is about $200, so subtract that from the labour savings to get $1000 saved.
That said, a mitre saw that doesn’t get moved around a lot, could be less expensive if you dealt with the cord occasionally.
Jon
And that’s if there is power! I calculated I was spending on average $25 per week on gas for my generator. Between the gas, lugging the thing around, cords, time, it was an obvious choice to change to completely cordless. In a progressional setting I think cordless is the way to go for both efficiency and portability.
fred
Interesting and very useful.
We should all do more of these sorts of calculations.
You could refine things based on some heuristics – or simulations that might also include any (if they are found to be any) difference in downtime or saw performance/productivity between corded and cordless.
You might also do it as a net present worth (value) calculation to put upfront costs on the same basis as the costs that stretch out over time. You would need to know your opportunity cost of capital or discount rate and you might want to inflate that labor cost for future years. You might also want to differentiate labor costs based on tasks (our helpers – lower paid labor did most of the set up and cleanup tasks – like coiling cords on our jobs). Another refinement is that the saw might be capitalized and put on your depreciation schedule – while the batteries would be expensed. On jobsites, the customer general pays for the electricity – so any minor differences in those costs would be moot.
Generally, however, if you can pay an upfront expense off in under 3 years – it probably makes sense. Furthermore, saws are one of those key tools that really can impact productivity. In our cabinet shop – we saw a dramatic increase in output per day after we bought and learned to use our big sliding table saw.
Danny K
Corded or cordless, only you know what would best for you. I think it’s great that more tool manufacturers provide the option now that cordless tools are so powerful. What great about cordless saw is safety for homeowners who have kids: you can lock the battery easily to keep kids from activating the saws accidentally or intentionally.
Chris
Any info on the upcoming Dewalt pocket knives?
Fred
I still have my hitachi 8 1/2 sliding miter saw that I bought almost 30 years ago and I’m sad they don’t make it still. It’s heavy enough. That new 10″ is enticing but I’m not getting any younger or stronger. Cords don’t bother me. But until I get a young strong helper or the Hitachi dies, I’ll stick with what I have.
Steve G
Except for drills, you can keep the cordless tools. I want cords, I want the power, and I want the reliability. I would never buy a cordless contractor power tool of any type.
DIY homeowners don’t require cordless either.
Stuart
These days, some cordless tools are more powerful than corded.
andy
As a remodel contractor, I love cordless everything. We usually have two outlets on site, but if a sub isn’t using them, more cords strung all over to trip on is a bad thing. Cordless is just so fast and simple.
As for the 70 degrees, I cut up to and beyond that frequently, especially roof framing. But framers don’t use miter saws…
Jon
I bought this saw and have been running it for about a month doing a gut renovation project. So far I am happy with it. It’s almost half the price of the Bosch and the Makita. All three tools are made in China. Compared to those two, it lacks a clever system for reducing the overall footprint, but if you can live with the size you get a very competitive feature package at a significant cost savings. It is also much, much lighter than either the Bosch or Makita, though it’s still quite heavy. I would say the 47lb spec is accurate. You really need a cart if you want meaningful portability from a tool this size, but it’s not unreasonable to pick it up and put it in your truck. The size, weight and control layout it is very, very similar to the DeWalt 10″ slider (but 30% cheaper, with better cut capacity, and a lifetime warranty). DeWalt’s excellent shadow line system is faithfully reproduced here, and works great.
Overall I’m happy with it. Power and accuracy are excellent. The control ergonomics are hit and miss, you need to reach waaaaay around it to adjust the bevel and it has an annoying safety, but conversely the handle design is great and the miter controls work beautifully. The dust collection is mediocre, which is the biggest drawback. I would say my Fein Turbo gets 80% of the dust at best, and the dust collection hood piece is kind of chintzy plastic.
Overall, if you aren’t obsessive about dust collection and cost is any object to you, I would suggest this saw wholeheartedly. It really cuts well and it blows the bigger name brands out of the water value-wise.
Glass
Cordless scms can be good when there are limited 20amp breakers available. Also with the makita anyway the brushless motor is so smooth and fast electric brake. I got the festool reomote switch for the vacuum. Actually has some benefit as I am often doing quick multiple cuts and vacuum just stays on til I am done cutting. I have found the battery table saws just do not have the battery life yet.
Flotsam
It wasn’t until a few sentences in that I recognized this was a cordless tool. It wasn’t in the title.
It strikes me that if someone, like a contractor is frequently working without power the cordless version is a god send.
But like the situation with nailers (which i am getting ready to buy) it seems to make something cordless like this it is probably something like an additional $100 or so. What I would like to see at this price point is perhaps making the tool a hybrid (operate off battery or AC). That to me would seem to be ideal. I can really say for someone like me (home based hobbyist) the battery operation is more of a luxury feature than a necessity.
I have a 10″ Ridgid miter saw but what i didn’t really get from the article was whether the sliding feature just added some additional capacity or whether there are negative tradeoffs too (ie, more weight & complexity or diminished accuracy) Any thoughts on those points?
As for overall weight and the selection of 12′ over 10″ I guess it depends on how you use it. If you were a contractor i guess you would put this on a portable stand with wheels and have to cut some pretty good size lumber. In my case i rarely cut over a 4×4 and the saw lives on a miter saw workbench. If you want portable how much weight how much do you want to lift on and off the truck?
AMC
As I shop around for a new miter saw for an upcoming project, the comments thread has proven to be more useful than most of the reviews I have read so far!
Thank you guys!
There are clearly advantages and disadvantages to each saw and it appears like there is no one perfect saw.
For the weekend warrior, I have to admit it may come down to the best sale. at the moment, Dewalt has a sale offering the 780 and stand for less than the Bosch, which appears to be a better saw. I never see the 12″ Bosch on sale locally. But it is still twice the cost of the Ridgid 10″, which would do the job, albeit, just.
As for battery vs cord, as I renovate an old duplex, I could never live without a corded drill to get through 70 year old hard wood 2x4s! I ruined an M12 drill just trying to make 5/8 holes to run new wiring. But, I would never trade my M12 Uponor expander!
I guess it depends on the task at hand. 🙂
Thanks again for taking the time to add all the comments.