Mike asked a question that I’ve heard before, but not often. He’s looking to buy a new saw, is trying to decide between a panel saw and a traditional table saw.
I was wanting to get information regarding purchasing a Panel Saw versus a regular Table Saw. For my application and workshop, the Panel Saw seems like an interesting choice, but price seems to be much more. Could this be a future topic for you to consider writing about?
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Without knowing more about the application, I can only make generalities. In my opinion, the capabilities of the two very different types of saws is going to be the deciding factor, and not the price.
If you’re mainly breaking down sheet goods, a panel saw might be the way to go.
They take up a bit of space, but allow for sheet materials, such as plywood or OSB, to be cut at an angle off of vertical. On a table saw, or with a track saw or circular saw, you need a lot more horizontal floor or shop space to make similar cuts.
A sheet is slid into place at the bottom of the saw, resting against a series of supports, and the saw is brought down, gliding on linear rails.
Shown above is a Milwaukee panel saw, $1300 via Home Depot. There are larger and more expensive models out there.
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There are disadvantages to using a panel saw. For one, the saw only moves in one direction. You can’t make angular cuts.
Given its design and intent, a panel saw can’t be used in ways a table saw can. For example, let’s say you have a board, 7 inches wide, and you want to rip it down to 6 inches. You can’t really do that with a panel saw, at least not easily. And you might not even have the clearance between saw and frame.
If you want to cut smaller pieces of plywood, the footprint and larger size of a panel saw might be more of a disadvantage than benefit. For instance, you won’t use a panel saw to cut 4 inch strips of plywood for drawer sides.
Table saws are different beasts, and capable of doing much more than breaking down sheet goods.
Above, a SawStop industrial cabinet saw, is the largest of their full-sized table saws. Their professional cabinet saws start at around $2550 via Amazon. Their largest table saw, shown above, is priced quite a bit higher.
These beasts can handle full-sized sheets of plywood, but you might also want additional outfeed support.
Smaller table saws, such as portable table saws, can also be used, but you’ll want to either build a larger workpiece support table around it, or invest in several auxiliary support accessories.
Just talking about breaking down large sheets of plywood, a panel saw can be placed near a wall. A cabinet saw really needs to be placed in the middle of a space. Consider breaking down a full sheet of plywood. Given how plywood is fed through a table saw, you would need twice the length, at the least.
For simplicity, let’s say you’re breaking down half a sheet, or 4 ft x 4 ft in size. You would need at least 8 feet of length to feed the sheet through the saw. Now let’s say you’re cutting a full size sheet in half, to create that 4-foot square. At the very least, you would need 8 feet in both directions, plus additional space in order to maneuver.
This is why a lot of people use circular saws or track saws to break down sheet goods – you only need enough space to put the sheet or panel on a work surface or raised off the floor.
If you have ever asked an associate at a lumber yard or home center to break down sheet goods or crosscut wider boards for you, they’ve probably done it on a panel saw, which can be fit on one side of an aisle.
In a workshop environment, I’m not sure that panel saw vs. table saw is a common purchasing decision. Instead, if someone is seriously considering a panel saw, I think that the more frequent question would be about which to buy first.
If I need to make long cuts in plywood, I break out my track saw. I use my track saw or a portable table saw to make smaller rip cuts, and there are multiple options for making crosscuts.
Without knowing Mike’s exact needs, but assuming he works with a lot of plywood or other sheet materials, or does a lot of crosscutting that exceeds the capacity of a miter saw, what would you recommend to him? Panel saw? Table saw? Both? Something else?
Noah
In the past I would have said panel saw, because it takes up less floor space and it’s easier to manipulate a full 4×8 into it. However, the accuracy isn’t as true as a table saw and it’s certainly not as versatile.
These days, if faced with a space issue, I’d vote track saw.
Kimber
The panel saw doesn’t provide clean enough cuts so you end up cutting the pieces a second time, a good track saw can provide clean cuts through multiple panels. It is a great option.
For higher production a medium size shop can save time and money by ordering cabinet components from various outlets. Cab Parts is a great deal for cabinet box components.
Brandon
If you’re considering a panel saw, I’m sure a table saw + track saw combo isn’t out of range. The track saw prevents you from moving a 4’x8′ sheet over the table saw. Alternatively, a circular saw and guide will do 90% as well as a track saw, and you can joint the cut edge on your table saw afterwards. Sounds like panel saws aren’t really precision tools, anyway (at least before you’re spending 2-3x as much as a high-end table saw), so you’d be cleaning up those edges regardless.
ChrisK
That’s what I do myself. I have a Sawstop CNS175 TGP36 table saw. I also have a Festool TS55REQ track saw that I use prior to making cuts on the table saw when I’m breaking down sheet goods. It’s a great combo in my shop and fits my require,eats perfectly.
jtr165
My approach also. My table saw doesn’t even have 24″ of rip capacity, but regardless i’m working alone enough and never feel all that comfortable pushing a 4 x 8 sheet across a table.
I don’t have a true track saw yet, but have a decent enough 8 foot aluminum rip guide that works well with my circ saw. I would eventually like to get a dedicated track saw for certain tasks, but overall i’m not really working with full sheets all that often to begin with.
fred
Lots of options.
Panel saws are great for shops and home centers where lots of sheet goods get cut. But the finish is sometimes a bit rough and precision may be a bit difficult.
As Noah says – track saws are an alternative contender – and the high-end Mafell makes the job more automated.
A table saw is not great for breaking down sheet goods – but with the right jigs/blades you can do dados, miters, and tenons. Naturally how powerful the saw is and the length of its arbor etc. will have an impact on its capabilities.
If you have the need and room in your shop, a sliding table saw with both a scoring blade and main blade might also be a choice.
Blair
Fred, you also might have added in the budget….just kidding, but a sliding table will be pricier initially, if the gentleman is doing production work it may well be worth the initial investment, due to the higher accuracy, and speed, it would pay off in the long-term
cb
I have a huge table saw island and combined with a large crosscut sled I have no problems with breaking down panels. On top of that I can use the table saw for vertically positioned items using jigs. If your doing sheet good work you need an offcut table that extends at least 5 feet past the end of the saw and 26″ to the left side of the blade. 40″ plus to the right is ideal also. Then, you can cut a 4×8 sheet without having to worry about any portion falling to the floor when your done. My sled is 26″ deep and as wide as the saws cast iron. I can clamp five or size 8′ rippings sideways and gang cut them to length easily. The 26″ depth allows for rippings cut to the depth of most lower cabinets.
Instead of a large outfeed table I used a second tablesaw. I keep this saw set up for dado cuts.
http://web.alliancecom.net/cb/Woodshop/shop/tablesaw%20island.jpg
Drew M
Yours is the second or third shop I’ve seen with a double tablesaw island. If my shop was big enough, I would definitely do this as well.
Nathan
if space is an issue I would just get a track saw setup – I mean they were made off the idea of what a panel saw does. it makes a lot of sense.
On the other hand a quality table saw is just nice to have – like when you want to bevel or dado those sheet goods.
if space is the issue – get the dewalt 7490 model with the X support stand. takes up little space – has good useful table space. breaks down easy and small. then get at least 2 of those roller stand supports – they are relatively cheap.
finally consider a track saw anyway.
Mr. Creek
One issue not addressed, 110v or 220v most panel saws I have seen are 220v. If your not wired this needs to be added in to the decision.
FishStick
The production units are 220V but most of the panel saws a homeowner with a workshop would be getting are nothing more than a 110V circular saw mounted on rails and a frame. Even up to $3K it’s still a circular saw (Makita 5007N). For table saws though I would be more concerned with the 220V vs 110V since even entry cabinet saws will be 220V.
BonPacific
You can get Cabinet Saws that run on 110v. SawStop’s PCS175, and Laguna’s Fusion come to mind. Sometimes they are called Hybrid Saws, but there really isn’t a different in construction. Both have enclosed bases, and cabinet-mounted trunnions. They aren’t quite as heavy as an old Unisaw.
FishStick
True, I reread and meant to put “tend to be 220V.” Ha, yes the old Unisaw is exceptionally heavy. Have one at home and it is a beast!
Travis
Just get a track saw, a piece of foam insulation, and a Centipede stand.
Blythe M
As others have said, sounds like a table saw-track saw combo would give best of both worlds. Because you can use the track saw to manage the big pieces, most likely you could get a smaller table saw and be just fine, and still stay around the $1300 of the panel saw example, if budget is a concern
Nathan
OH and blades – what’s a panel saw use – 7/14 or 10 or ?
I’ve never used one enough to pay attention but that should be another concern
JMG
The Milwaukee panel saw uses 8″ or 8 1/4″ saw blades. Good quality blades of that size are not always easy to source. My preference in that size of blade is the FS Tool XL4000 series. Higher end panel saws, such as the Holz 1265, use metric dimension blades with metric arbors.
RC WARD
Not even close. Home Depot can use their panel saw for you if needed. Buy a Table saw.
Zach
Track saw for sure
BigDan
When I first got into all this a few years ago I had my heart set on a radial arm saw, a 50’s edition green one. Cost of those is too high to restore as most need new wiring/motor repairs at this point, so I looked at newer RAS models instead. Sears’ craftsman one had mixed reviews at best and then there were expensive delta ones. I kept wondering why such a great tool wasn’t more prevalent? The answer was the sliding compound miter saw. Prettymuch everything the RAS can do, more accurately (no adjustments needed like the RAS arm required when it got off center), and much safer. I was disappointed but then realized why the RAS with all its bulk and lack of mobility was abandoned after the SCMS became mainstream.
Anyway I feel the same thing has happened to the panel saw. Its bulky and not movable much less portable. The track saw is super accurate, stows easily, super portable, and cheaper to boot. It even beats the table saw when it comes to ripping. The table saw then becomes even more of a precision tool, nice to have.
I love my festool(ts75?) 2.5″ saw depth since it can cut timbers too not just plywood, and find myself only using the table saw for smaller precision cuts that wouldn’t work on the band saw.
BigDan
Like this beauty. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1950s-DeWalt-MBF-Vintage-Radial-Arm-Saw-/191977090032?hash=item2cb2b9ebf0:g:Xe0AAOSwAuZX2b41
BonPacific
God I love the look of those old DeWalt’s. I had one in a shop space I rented for awhile. Made one cut after cleaning it up and decided it was better as art. Those things are scary as hell.
fred
We had a big old Dewalt sitting in the corner of the shop too.
Anything that spins a 20 inch blade and has a 7.5hp motor can indeed be scary – but good for cutting big timbers
Charles
I am of the opinion that a TRACK SAW and appropriate length rails should the first (and is the most versatile) power saw -and a tool activated vaccuum.
Table saw next.
Panel saws are $$$,bulky, limited use, inaccurate and horridly messy -but sometimes only a specific tool does the job best.
BikerDad
no, the MOST versatile power saw is the jigsaw. Next would be the track saw, then bandsaw, then table saw. Generally, there is a trade off between these various elements: versatility, precision, ease of use and accuracy.
There are things each can do that the others can’t, or can’t do without great difficulty.
BikerDad
Panel Saw or Table saw? No brainer. The only person who should be buying a panel saw before they get a table saw is someone who does nothing but build cabinet boxes as a sub for a cabinet maker. Even a straight up cabinet maker is better served with a table saw, what with drawers and doors to build. The panel saw is a one trick pony. It does that trick pretty well, but …
John
One would think it be pretty trivial to make a vertical stand with a festool track to be a “panel saw” when needed. I’ve seen people use the festool track saw vertically for off cust and even make a panel saw setup for their TS55/75:
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/ts-55-vertical-panel-saw/
Mike
Not even close a table saw way over a panel saw I wouldn’t take one for free
Fran tark
If all you want to do is chop 4×8 sheets in halves or thirds, get a panel saw. If you want to do ANYTHING else, get a table saw.
panel saw’s main drawbacks are:
you can’t rip narrow strips so forget about ever using solid hardwood
No dadoes
No zero clearance insert
Poor dust collection
Rough finish on the cuts even with a good blade
JMG
With the Milwaukee panel saw I would agree that narrow rips are a problem, but the dust collection package for that saw works pretty well, in most cases (even though it is not the best engineering integration effort they ever made). I personally own one of these units, and find that it works well with a top of the line blade if you do not plan on using the horizontal rip setting. Using the saw on vertical only (with the right blade), and planning your cuts on a cross panel cut first can give you some very good edges. Long rips on the saw are to be avoided if at all possible, even with the add-on extensions. I have found the saw to be a decent portable option, that can be easily stored in a corner when not in use, but no where near as useful as a track saw can be for job site production.
When it comes to high end panel saws, narrow strips are not a problem, unless the stock itself is less than four inches wide. I owned a Holz-Er 1265 with a twelve foot rip capacity and straight line ripped all of my lumber on it after rough surfacing. It was awesome in that roll and made it so much easier to work the lumber on the table saw afterwards. The edges from the panel saw were perfect for gluing up wide panels when needed as well.
In all, tools are situational and have strength and weakness’. The only real minus to the panel saw I agree with is dadoes, and that is also situational, and in my opinion, better left to a dedicated table saw with a stock feeder attached to it.
Michael
My first stationery tool was a table saw. 30 years later, I would make the same decision again. That was best for me and was based on my needs. Your decision should be based on your needs. Advice is good but, should be taken with a grain of salt. It would be human nature for me to try to convince you that what I did will be best for you. Weigh all information and make an informed decision. Best of luck.
Rick
When I buy 4 X 8 sheets at Home Depot, they will do ten cuts for free, so I really don’t need a panel saw.
John
I used Home Depot to rip a piece of plywood once when I didn’t have access to a truck and needed to do a project quickly. I’m just glad I didn’t have them cut it to finish dimensions since the cut was not parallel to the factory edge of the sheet.
I’m a huge fan of track saws since I bought mine 6 years ago. More accurate and easier to set up for repetitive cuts than a standard circular saw / guide and safer than the portable table saw that I have. That being said, it isn’t going to do everything a table saw is capable of i.e. dadoes, tenons, etc.
There’s always the option to build your own panel saw if you have the space and really want one.
http://www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/sliding-carriage-panel-saw/
Hang Fire
False dichotomy. Get a table saw AND a track saw. Only get a panel saw if you are in production mode using lots and lots of 4×8 stock. That does not describe most hobbyist workshops.
Brian
Some day I would like to build my own panel saw.
This kit looks great.
http://a2equipment.com/swapsaw-panel-saw-kit/
Micahel Della Polla
In a production shop, a vertical panel saw or table saw are the only choices. The track saw is great for site work but too much time is in set up to be used for shop work.
In a nutshell, Vertical Panel Saws are great for sheet goods and space restricted shops. Table saws are better for ripping lumber. Table saws have been around for ever but have their limitations, just ask a guy who has lost a finger on one.
There are a few different brands of vertical table saws, some much more accurate than others and have added capability by swapping a saw for a router or other cutting devise.
Panel Saws are safer than table saws, you won’t lose a finger because you can’t get your hand under the carriage to get to the blade. That’s why home center stores use them. It is also easier for one person to use a vertical panel saw than a table saw. It is also easier to move sheets vertically in a shop than horizontally because vertically, the sheets take up less space.
There are two types of vertical saws that I’ve seen. The European style where the wood stays stationary during all cutting and the the American style where the wood stays stationary for cross cuts but is pushed through the saw for rip cuts, (like a sideways table saw). This is the type the home center stores have.
As far as accuracy, there is one domestic American style panel saw that uses real sealed bearings and has a patented alignment system. This brand also has three different types of saws that can be used on their machines, a Makita 5007F saw, a Makita hypoid saw for industrial use and a 10″ Milwaukee saw for use with 10″ table saw blades. Besides the saw choices, this brand also allows a router insert and other cutting heads to be swapped with the saw.
For this small shop I would definitely recommend a look at what Saw Trax Panel Saws have to offer. They have been around for over 25 years.
Micahel
If you are working at home or at a job site, a track saw will do the job.
If you are a production shop a panel saw is best for breaking down sheet goods, especially if you buy the right one. They are safer to use than a table saw, easy one person operation since it is easier to handle sheet goods vertically. (This is why home centers use them.) If you get a good one like a Saw Trax, you get accurate repeatable cuts, a dust collection that actually works and the option of a floating router for dados. You can also use a 7.25″ blade in two of their models or a 10″ blade in a third model.
Table saws are best fro ripping lumber but the kick backs are waist high and if you can’t find your pusher stick, you risk loosing a finger. That’s why an entire new version is made by Saw Stop, so you don’t cut off your thumb or finger. (At least it won’t cut a hot dog.