Jason wrote in with a great question:
I was wondering if you could post about tool maintenance?
I’ve only been working with tools for about a year. So my knowledge is next to none. I have a general idea how to keep my hand tools in working order (wd40) but not a clue as to what to do to keep my power tools running in tip top shape. Do you have any pointers for a rookie?
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This is a great question, but one I’m reluctant to tackle. To be honest, I don’t really have any good tips. The best source for tool maintenance advice is almost always going to be a tool’s owners manual. Most brands have user manuals available online just in case you lose the printed copy that comes with every new tool.
Tool maintenance sometimes covers cleaning a tool and/or oiling/greasing/lubricating certain parts. Owners manuals also usually cover maintenance activities, schedules, and what to look for if there are parts that need to be replaced, such as motor brushes.
There really are too many different tools to discuss, and too many places I could accidentally leave something out. Some tools require little regular maintenance, such as drills, others require a bit more attention, such as air compressors and nailers.
It’s also a good idea to keep tools clean. Chips, sawdust, debris, or other foreign contaminants could work their way inside tool housings. Once inside, they could foul up moving parts, such as switches, or affect motor or drive components.
Regarding hand tools, there are plenty of resources online and a lot of products that help to keep them running smooth and rust-free. I generally don’t like using WD40, as it’s not a very safe product to breathe in or get on your skin. I use a light non-toxic tool oil, when needed, to help prevent rust. Not many hand tools need lubrication or grease, but for those that do I usually go by what manufacturers recommend.
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Garrick
I like to blow out my power tools once a year with a compressor nozzle.
I think newer, quality power tools are better sealed than the older and/or cheaper brands. But an ounce of prevention is worth a kilogram of cure.
Joe M
Once a year? You sure? I bought two saws for the first time in my life, and I’ve been blowing them out with compressed air after every use. Actually, every tool I own, I blow it out after every use. Obviously not when I stop the tool every time, but after the job is done or the day is done. Am I doing too much here?
SharkyTM
Nope, I blow my woodworking power tools out after each job. My metal-working stuff gets blown out too. I’ve found surprising amounts of dust, chips, and debris in the tools. I don’t know if it’s actually helping increase their lives, but it can’t hurt.
SteveR
As Stuart points out, chips and dust can get into recesses and other points of the tool that they shouldn’t. I’d be careful using compressed air or a shop air line to blow the dust “out”; if anything, you might blow it further in to a recess or area that you don’t want chips and dust settling into. Instead, try to shake as much out as you can, then use a vacuum to suck out the rest. You may even need to use a pair of tweezers to pluck out larger pieces that found a way in, but now won’t shake out easily.
Incidentally, it’s never a good idea to blow dust off yourself or someone else with a shop air line. The air can blow dust around uncontrollably, going up your nose or into your mouth, as well as into your eyes and ears. And NEVER direct an air hose into someone’s eyes or into their ears. Though seemingly unlikely, it’s possible to blow air into a cut or abrasion, which could force an air bubble into a person’s bloodstream. That air bubble can then travel to the brain, leading to severe consequences (a stroke) or even death. Think about it; why do you suppose a doctor or nurse taps on a syringe when he or she is about to give you an injection? They’re trying to break up/remove the errant air bubble(s) that is (are) introduced while filling the syringe. Better to use a shop brush or a rag to dust yourself off.
Allen
I recently put new chucks on three of my drills. Two were older keyed models and one was a keyless. I found new chucks on Amazon and ebay, it was a very simple job, do a search for tips.
I use the older ones a lot more now they have keyless chucks and I bought a higher quality chuck for one drill that does a really good job of holding smallish drill bits.
I don’t remember the models exactly but two were older USA made Jacobs and one was from France. They weren’t all that costly and really added life to the drills.
Good topic.
John
Start with the owners manual and parts / service manual if one is available for the tool.
I usually use compressed air or a vacuum to clean dust and chips from tools as they are put away for storage since I never know how long a tool will sit until its next use.
Use the proper lubricant per the owners manual – gear oil / grease in some saws, pneumatic tool oil in nailers that require it. Change oil and filters in engines and oil-lubed compressors at recommended intervals. Same for spark plugs and air filters though they can usually be cleaned once or twice before replacement is needed.
Continuously monitor conditions of cords, guards, bits/blades, and other related accessories – replace anything defective as soon as it fails.
Keep bits and blades sharp – they work better, provide a better work piece, and are less likely to bind causing tool damage or personal injury.
Store tools away from humidity / moisture that causes rust or use desicant packs in cases and toolbox drawers to minimize rust.
Dave L.
Make sure struck tools, like cold chisels, don’t have “mushroomed” heads. If hit just the right way a piece could break off and fly like shrapnel. I take them to a grinding wheel and take them down to a slight taper.
dan
Lots of people say this but I have never bothered, bits do come off occasionally but they never seem to go very far, they often land on my hand but never with enough force to attach themselves.
Steve G
My grandfather got a chip in his knee while splitting wood. Really messed him up. Be on the safe side, clean them up with a grinder.
joe
When winter comes I tend to use lysol disinfectant spray to wype my cordless drills since I try to prevent getting the flu virus. Also, I like to wype it down when i’m working in dirty areas, lest say if i’m working removing a toilet…i do the same for the hand tools. Though not a maintenance deal, it’s good practice to stay ill free.
Also, I use lysol on my cordless impact wrenches after doing car maintenance…lysol seems to get rid of the grease on tools nicely.
As far as maintenance goes, on my cordless drills, I use compress air to remove dust from the vents. Lets say if I used the drill while cutting and installing sheet rock, the drill intake ports suck in the white dust and may get in the drills motor commutator and brushes which may cause issues..
I also don’t leave batteries drained when storing the tool for months. The batteries life degrades when left uncharged.
I lubricate my drill gears every few yrs if I use it a lot. I don’t believe you have to worry about this since the grease from factory should last you the toold life if you are a DIYer, but for thos who use them heavily, I suggest learning how to take the drill apart and lubricate the gears once a blue moon. You can see the grease from factory there sort of looks solid but melts when the gears get warm…due to the nature of how things work, most of the grease gets fling outwards to the sides and not touching the gears anymore, at least that is my theory…:)
I have seen drill brushes that eat on the commutator copper, don’t know how that happens but the guy kept the drills in the garage out in the open…so I would suggest storing the drills inside a container/tool box.
Regarding WD40, I would suggest something else…from what I have noticed, it atracts more dirt than other lubricants. I know this because I used WD40 on one of my truck wheels once to remove dirt….that wheel alone attracted lots of dirt and stuck to it while the others where,,,i would say…60% cleaner…just a thought.
Ktash
I keep a spray bottle of Trend bit and tool cleaner handy. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2081004/29972/Trend-Tool-and-Bit-Cleaner.aspx Every time I use a router bit, I spray it and wipe the spray off with a shop towel. It just takes a second and keeps them clean and sharp. I probably should do that with other blades, but the router bits are so pricey, I just make it a habit, since I take the bit out of the router right after using it. CMT makes a similar cleaner, sold by Rockler, I think.
Also, some people recommend Simple Green for bit and blade cleaning, but that’s a bad idea and will hurt the tool unless you use the purple-colored Simple Green. Sold at Home Depot.
jason. w
Thanks for the comments guys. I am the original writer.
I work in the water damage restoration feild. So my hand tools are ALWAYS coming in contact with water/wet matierals. I also deal with high levels of mold and soot. On top of my daily quick wipe down, I also clean my tools every few weeks, which usually consists of vacuuming them off then wiping them down with a antimicrobial. After I let them dry I spray them down with wd40, wipe them down so its just a light coat on the tools.
As for my power tools. I just vacuum and wipe them down with either antimicrobial or a cleaner we have for soot. I will read my Manuel’s to see what they say.
Aaron W.
You might want to take a look at a product called CorrosionX. Very similar in function to WD40, but
Seems to attract less dirt. It also forms a longer lasting film on the metal to continue to fight corrosion. We’ve been using it to clean B17 grade studs that get a lot of water exposure. Used to have to clean surface rust of them monthly, but we’re going on 3 since switching without and evidence of rust.
SteveR
Jason–Many good tips from the readers. I have a practice that if I used the tool today (I’m a DIYer like most), it gets a thorough look-over, cleaning and light oiling on rust-prone parts. If it’s a cordless/electric saw, or other power tool, it gets wiped down and brushed/blown out to prevent sawdust and other contaminants from getting into the motor or gear mechanism.
Most air tools require you to top off the oil after each day’s use. If it’s a tool at work that you are unfamiliar with, ask someone to demonstrate how it operates BEFORE you are injured by it. Clean the handles of tools (power and hand) because (a) it will improve your grip on those that vibrate/oscillate during use; (b) it will keep the tool looking good and (c) a good cleaning may reveal a cracked housing, loose screw or other problem you wouldn’t have caught before it’s next use. A cracked body on a power tool could get you electrocuted. Incidentally, wipe corded power tools free of oil or grease, which could conduct electricity to your body and potentially electrocute you.
Don’t forget to wear the required safety equipment (hard hat, dust mask or respirator, safety glasses, appropriate gloves, etc.) for the job at hand. Perhaps the most important tip is to ALWAYS tell someone what you’re going to be doing; a wife, friend or co-worker should know where you’ll be and what tools you’ll be using. That way, if you don’t return in a reasonable time (or just for lunch), someone will come looking for you. Keep a cell phone with you; in case of injuries, you can dial a co-worker or 9-1-1 to get help.
Similar to what is taught in forklift driving class, inspect your tools BEFORE using them; don’t just turn them on. Also, is the back-up (reverse) beeper working properly on the lift or other vehicle? It only takes a few moments to insure that they’re safe. Monitor the tool’s actions during use; is it running poorly or vibrating more than you think it should? If so, stop and check it out; don’t “power through” a little longer just to finish a job; your safety may depend upon it.
Jerry
Good advice so far, all I can think of to add would be to use a vacuum instead of compressed air where practical. A vacuum pulls debris out, while compressed air can blow debris deeper into things if you are not careful.
Also, be wary of at cheating box end maintanence. A friend of mine says more GrarWrenches (the brand they sell in the store where he works) are returned because of improper maintanence than anything else. His theory is that the owner sees it is ‘dirty’ so they spray it with a thin penetrating lubricant like WD-40 and it washes out the factory synthetic grease, causing the mechanism to act up much sooner than if they just wiped the tool off with a clean rag and put it away.
Larson
A friend I knew kept some of his hand tools in rice. It looked super weird but he had a small 2 gallon bucket I would say that he kept wrenches and pliers in. They stood up nicely actually and according to him kept them from rusting.
I don’t know if I would go that far but it does seem that even coated expensive hand tools can still rust when exposed to moisture frequently, what’s up with that?
Allen
I keep an old towel sprayed with Fluid Film and diesel fuel covering the hand tools in each drawer of the metal and mechanics tools. It is right there to make a quick wipe when needed.
Dave L.
I guess if corrosion was a real problem one could keep tools wrapped in VPI paper to prevent rust. Not sure where you get it though.
dan
Here in the UK you can get little pots containing vpi for putting in toolboxes to prevent rust.
Dave Law
Regarding rice: You might recall seeing rice in a salt shaker in some restaurants, like a diner. The rice attracts any moisture thereby keeping the salt from clumping. Seems like it would work for tools as well: if the tool has some moisture on it when put in the rice, the rice should absorb it like a desiccant.
Steven B
Stuart, what tool oil do you use? I wasn’t aware WD40 was toxic, although it does make sense.
mike
Starrett tool and instrument oil is the best for tools in my opinion,its super pure.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KUA2FI/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Salty sweaty hands cause alot of tool rust too.
For AirTools i use Marvel airtool oil.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JKGKQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&s=
mike
LPS makes some great ones too.
Ktash
Here’s an article about when NOT to use WD-40. One thing is that it attracts dirt. It’s not a lubricant, either. It protects things from water (WD=water displacement).
http://lifehacker.com/5891936/when-should-i-not-use-wd-40
Also, you shouldn’t use silicon on tools that will be used on unfinished wood. It will mess with your finishes if it gets on the wood.
Dave L.
I use silicone on rubber weather stripping for cars, but get it on the paint, if you ever have body work done, it’ll fisheye the new paint.
joe
Other than some wd40 on my hand tools I don’t do anything.
Dave L.
WD-40 is NOT to be used on firearms because its capillary action can cause it to wick into primers and deaden them. It can melt plastics, especially phenolics like circuit boards. While I have used it in locks for many, many years (I’m a locksmith), in dusty areas you would be better off using a dry teflon spray. As far as lubrication I like Tri-Flow or Rem Oil better than WD-40.
Where more of a cushion is needed I’ve been using synthetic greases like Loctite Viper Lube or Super Lube. Alisyn Pro 21 is a good synthetic spray grease. Synthetic greases don’t seem to separate over time like lithium grease does and they work over a very wide temp range.
Hang Fire
Corrosion-X is a new high tech anti-rust treatment that pales in comparison tests to good ol’ FluidFilm, what I use to prevent rust on anything with bright metal. It has kept my snow thrower rust free despite years of running through salted snow.
I was recently reminded to use only air tool oil in air impact wrenches. Not only does thicker oils slow down and gum up the works, but the tool needs the correct viscosity oil for sealing and fullest performance.
I use Sno-Seal/Atsko Sport Wash to wash my ZWipes and AmazonBasics MicroFiber rags, and dry on “tumble/no heat” so as not to ruin them. Once they no longer come clean enough for car window duty, I use them for dirtier jobs like wiping down tools and even oily hands. Of course once used for oil they never go back to window duty. I buy them by the box every 3-4 months and so have plenty of new/clean ones for final window detailing after using the washed ones to get the worst of the dirt off.
Dave Law
An old-school trick for any kind of digging tools is to keep a bucket of oil-dampened sand handy. When you’re done using the tool, plunge it into the sand and put it away. The sand cleans and the oil protects.
John A
I have a big problem with rust on my tools due to sudden changes in Temps.
A few weeks ago it went from about 15 degrees to around 50 within half a day. I went to use some tools to work on my wife’s truck and they were covered in condensation.
Now I know why (especially my impact sockets) my tools develop surface rust.