Last night, a brief exchange on Twitter got me thinking more about screwdrivers with hex bolsters.
In case you haven’t seen such a feature before, hex bolsters allow you to slide a wrench onto a heavy duty class of screwdriver, in order to provide more torque for tough applications.
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Hex bolsters are typically found on heavy duty screwdrivers, often with other premium or heavy duty features.
These Wiha heavy duty SoftFinish screwdrivers, for example, have through steel striking caps at the ends of the handles, in case a stuck fastener needs a little motivation to loosen up.
These drivers also have full-tang shafts, which means the screwdriver blade is continuous from tip to end cap. It doesn’t end in the middle of the screwdriver handle as is the case with lesser screwdrivers.
But back to the point – hex bolsters.
I have a couple of screwdrivers that have hex bolsters, but not many. If I need extra torque to loosen or tighten a fastener, I wouldn’t take a wrench to a hex bolstered screwdriver, I would break out a bit socket and a breaker bar or ratchet.
If I needed a lot more torque, I would break out the a breaker bar, bit socket, and dead blow hammer*. This isn’t often needed, and most of the time it’s with larger diameter hex fasteners, not Phillips or slotted ones.
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Oops, I originally said breaker bar, bit socket, and breaker bar. I meant dead blow hammer*.
Although I don’t think such a feature is very useful for my own use, I can absolutely see the benefit, or potential benefit of screwdrivers with hex bolsters.
If a screwdriver style I’m interested in comes with hex bolsters, so be it. But I won’t go out of my way to buy screwdrivers just for this feature.
What about you? Are hex bolsters on your “must-have” screwdriver features list, or do you feel differently?
Buy Now(Hex Bolster Screwdrivers via Amazon)
NCD
For me….. does not matter. Moot, actually.
Bradley Hanstad
They probably will never be used by me, but when I picked up a set of Felo ergonic screwdrivers from kctool before year end sale went away, I decided it might as well be there if I do ever need it.
jeff
im the same, dont care. its neither a plus or a minus.
Andrew
On larger screwdrivers I think I’d prefer getting extra torque from a T-handle or ratchet. I did run into a torx bit on a 15 year old lawnmower deck once and spent about 30 minutes trying to undo the screw by placing massive amounts of stress on my hands along with PB Blaster. Even when the screw started unfastening, it was incredibly hard to turn, and by the end of it my hands were completely stiff and I couldn’t perform any other tasks until they relaxed. An impact driver probably would have finished the job in seconds, but there wasn’t any clearance for it, and the only other option would have been a t-handle or something like this, but I think the T-Handle would have been easier to use.
All that being said, i did come across a cool little Precision Screwdriver set that let you stick a hex piece through the handle to convert it into a makeshift T-handle for small screws that might be torqued on really hard. The bonus seems they are are actually made from a quality steel, so I might be picking them up soon. I believe they call it a “power rod design” in the description:
http://www.amazon.com/Nanch-Precision-Tools-31-pieces-Screwdriver/dp/B00R9IJKE8/
Brian
Those looks pretty good. I saved it to my wishlist.
I’d like a nice Wiha set, but might settle for this. Or both.
Eric Schactman
I agree with you, I’d prefer a ratchet over the hex bolster for a couple of reasons. If using an adjustable wrench or pliers with the bolster, there is a chance of slippage (I would use a vise-grip) and damage or injury. Also, I’d rather the force be closer to the screw head with a ratchet, rather than away from the screw head with a bolster.
Scott
I think I’d trade the driver for a socket & wrench if I needed the torque. Speaking from no experience with this, it seems like you’d be more likely to strip a Philips screw or break the tip if you need THAT much torque.
fred
When carpenters regularly used Yankee Spiral Ratchet Screwdrivers on jobsites as their primary cordless tool (LOL) – there were also a batch of tricks to break a stuck screw free. If it was in a metal plate and rusted in – then Coca Cola, penetrating oil or heat was sometimes tried. Hammering on the back of the screwdriver handle (hopefully one with a through shaft) sometimes worked. Grabbing the shaft with a vise grips and applying torque was another way – but the big daddy technique was to drag out the bit brace and screwdriver bit – which could apply heaps of torque – enough to break off the screw most times. The bottom line fo me is that I would not go out of my way to buy a screwdriver just because it had a hex bolster.
Jay
Can’t tell you how many times I got pinched fingers using a good old Stanley yankee screwdriver. Best thing about them was the long handle allowing for two handed use.
mike aka Fazzman
I have drivers both with and without bolsters,they are great when you need them,in industrial applications they are quite useful. you cant always use a ratchet or a wrench.
SteveR
OR, you just may not have a ratchet or a wrench (preferably, the closed end of a combination wrench) handy. I don’t like using adjustable wrenches for this; they slip too easily. Instead, you can slip the closed end of a combination wrench over the screwdriver shaft and turn the hex as needed. If I suspect going in that I’ll need more twisting force, I’ll bring the ratchet and screwdriver socket, but you can’t always carry everything with you.
I suspect that’s where the hex bolster came from: To apply that extra amount of torque when you need it, but don’t have the exact tool(s) you’d use for that with you.
As a DIYer, I’ve resorted to the hex bolster maybe twice in my life; it just doesn’t come up often in the jobs I’ve attempted. And some screwdrivers don’t offer the bolster at all because they have square shafts (though on slotted screwdrivers only, as I recall). You can turn those with an adjustable wrench or the open end of a small combination wrench.
It pays to think ahead and bring a can of penetrating fluid (PB Blaster, etc.) for jobs with older parts or equipment. If you encounter resistance, a quick spray and waiting 5-10 minutes while it dissolves the corrosion can work wonders. It can pay to use a manual impact driver on difficult screws, as it offers controlled force over smacking the fastener directly with a hammer, which can break the screwhead off or deface it. I don’t advise smacking regular screwdrivers with a hammer; that just messes up the screw face, the driver end (slotted or Phillips) and could possibly break the handle.
When installing something new, I put antiseize or a small dab of dielectric
grease on the screws to prevent corrosion. That’s an especially helpful step when working on cars.
When all else fails, ask yourself, “Am I using the right size screwdriver?” It’s not uncommon to discover the slotted driver is too narrow (not thick enough) and/or isn’t wide enough for the fastener (1/4″ wide, when you may need one that’s 3/8″ wide). Or the Phillips driver is too small (you’re using a #1 driver on a #2 screw).
Diplomatic Immunity
Fine if you use it I guess. I don’t go out of my way to buy them though. Other tools would better accomplish adding greater torque if needed.
Jerry
For a stuck screw in metal you can put a wrench on the bolster, apply just enough torque so it doesn’t slip, and whack the end with a hammer. This really only works if the driver has a through shaft, so if it does have a hex, I want it to have a striking cap.
Harry
I like bolstered screwdriver blades because, I feel bolstered blades are attached to the handle better, and I feel I get a meatier or thicker blade with a bolstered blade but, that’s just me. I also prefer hex shaped blades for better finger spinning. What about the Witte Screwdrivers that have the hole in the handle that allows you to either hang it or to insert another screwdriver through the hole to apply more leverage as you push in?
John
By having it I don’t suppose its any major loss. I have the Wera 932 S/6 Screwdriver set Kraftform Wera “Chiseldriver” set which has both the hex bolsters and a 1/4 inch socket in the back to attach to a ratchet so you get both of what you’re talking about. Not to mention the full tang metal to the end means its impact cap can be struck with a hammer and “pound-thru” blade transfers the full blow. I don’t always need it, but its really nice to have and bailed me out when torque is needed on flat head bolts recessed that a wrench isn’t going to get at.
SteveR
That’s an interesting feature; I don’t think I’ve seen that on any other brand. I know Snap-on (and I’m sure other brands if we looked) have offered handled drivers (non-ratcheting), that also have a 3/8″ square drive (female) in the handle for additional torque with a ratchet or breaker bar. That would work well, as you can hold the driver handle with your left hand while you apply additional torque while turning the ratchet with your right (or vice versa if you’re left-handed). I think that’s a more stable set-up and preferable to the hex bolster.
Drew M
A 1/4″ hex screwdriver handle with a 1/4″ ratchet recess in the handle would be pretty awesome. Those Chiseldrivers are cool but I would want them in torx and hex rather than phillips and slotted.
Toolfreak
You can use a 1/4″ drive spinner handle with a socket bit, and use the 1/4″ recess in the top for a ratchet. Very versatile tool, with the right accessories.
Brian
You can generally put more downward force on a screwdriver(without risking hitting your fingers when it breaks loose) so it doesn’t cam out. I buy combination wrenches in the specific size of the hex bolster and keep them with the screwdrivers. Generally only need two different sizes, never had to put a lot of torque on a PH1.
Toolfreak
“If I needed a lot more torque, I would break out the a breaker bar, bit socket, and breaker bar.”
Two breaker bars is a lot more torque for sure.
I don’t have many screwdrivers with hex bolsters, but have had to use one before to drive in a screw when no cordless drill or other way of driving it in was available. I’m pretty sure they are also useful for tough access applications where a driver bit/ratchet/power tool isn’t an option, or you just don’t have a long enough bit or extension.
I think it’s better to have the option than not, and it seems most higher-end (and higher quality) screwdrivers have the hex bolsters as a way to enlarge the shaft thickness at the handle, so I don’t see any big downside to having it, except maybe weight.
Stuart
Oops, I meant dead blow hammer. When I was writing it out, I kept thinking about the last time I needed to persuade a super-tight fastener to loosen up.
I was changing out my mountain bike pedals, and a breaker bar wouldn’t do the trick by itself, so out came the dead blow mallet.
Pete
I would rather not have bolsters, a premium feature i dont need and dont want to pay for. I do like full tang and a stiking cap
Though.
SteveR
Generally speaking, it’s a feature offered on certain sets of screwdrivers in a manufacturer’s line. It’s not like an option available for $2.00 extra per screwdriver on any given one. As Stuart pointed out, it’s generally available on the larger drivers with other nice features. However, in the Wiha set at the top of the page, it’s on six of the seven drivers, several of which are small .
One of the benefits of the bolster is that it prevents the shaft from being rammed upward into the handle under extreme use (i.e., when a user hits the handle with a hammer for extra torque or to jolt a fastener loose prior to twisting on it). I have several Snap-on screwdrivers with the feature and, as I recall, you can easily replace blades (the shaft) by reversing on it with a wrench. That can save you money if it’s one you use a lot and need to replace it after a few years’ abuse.
I don’t think Snap-on will offer the steel cap option on it’s screwdrivers. All of the literature I’ve read from them include the warnings that you not use the tool as a chisel or a prybar; that’s considered abuse and will be obvious to the dealer if you’ve done that. However, it’s all academic to the auto technician who needs to do just that when he’s got to get work finished.
Rx9
Chances are the amount of torque produced by a hex bolster would cause camming out or damage to a Phillips head fastener. In cases of tight fasteners, a bit socket and ratchet would be a more elegant and functional solution. The reason is that applying forward torque to hold the bit in would be easier and a hex bolster/wrench combo presents the possibility of the wrench slipping off.
Hang Fire
The hex is pointless because you have to hold the wrench up while you are trying to push the screwdriver down. If the hex were on top, it might actually be useful, you could use both hands to push down on the whole while turning. As is, the tool will cam out before the extra leverage is useful.
Anywhere you could use them, you can use a manual (hammer) impact driver. So, I don’t hate them, don’t really care if they are there or not.
JoeM
If they came in sets where all the bolsters were the same size, and they included a heavy-handled wrench to use with them, then I’d consider it. Or, if they included a “Handle” that was meant to give you really, REALLY good grip on the wrench they included in the set, I would consider that as well.
Otherwise… What’s the point? A million different ways to do the same job, each more customized to the person doing the job than the last. Nearly every post here has examples of it. If they are considering the bolsters as a specific solution to the problem, why not sell the COMPLETE solution to the problem? Otherwise… it’s like selling someone only part A or part B of A-B Foam.
By the time you justify leaving out the missing parts, you might as well be talking about impact drivers, and either 90 degree angle or flex shafts for those impact drivers, to do the job they’re “intended” for.
fred
Good points – but isn’t this “what makes the world go around” ? Different manufacturers like to offer variations on a theme – some to set them apart from their competition – some to meet a perceived need (even if its a niche market) – some that may end up as industry standards – but many more that may be just “flashes in the pan” not making anyone happy enough to be profitable. These screwdrivers are not something I would run out and buy – even if they came with a nice ratcheting flare nut wrench to grab the bolster – but its still nice to see that quality manufacturer’s like Wiha continue to try offering different options.
Mike
The ‘solution’ bolsters present is convenience and maybe a bit of time efficiency. Sure things like bit sockets and impact drivers may be more appropriate solutions for most situations but they are not always available. Lots of people have need to carry tools around and tool chests, power tools, transport carts and the like are just not a viable option for those looking to always trim down weight on tool kits.
So for those with miscellaneous and broad tasks on the fly and on the move, a hex bolster helps out in a pinch to free up the odd fastener or two with the help of just a wrench or even pliers.
LOTS of tools aren’t strictly NEEDED. Ratcheting wrenches(another tool with little consensus as to which configuration is most best-ess…reverse/flex/offset/stubby/x-beam etc), 12v/compact power tools, aluminum alloy pipe wrenches and a 1001 more examples I’m sure.
Most jobs fall on the spectrum in-between banging something with a rock and installing 10,000 fasteners a day with a pneumatic torque driver.
Sometimes the hex bolster helps in a pinch. Usually not needed though.
One more thing: considering all the phoo-phoo-ing about hex bolsters there sure are a lot of people talking about striking screwdrivers with hammers and full-tangs and end-caps and all that. Dedicated pry-bars and the like are always a better solution than re purposing screwdrivers, even those dressed up as heavy duty. But sometimes it’s just too inconvenient to spend time finding the most appropriate tool. Though I have certainly popped slug cutouts from terminal boxes with large slotted drivers, I still adhere to the adage: “The only time a screwdriver should be used as a chisel is when it’s a chisel.” However, I suppose if you want to run around cranking on large slotted screws with a Two Cherries 1/8″ chisel it might be fun.
+1 for Witte from me. Good tools all round. BTW, Felo drivers have a hole in the handle as well.
JoeM
Y’see… That comparison about the striking plates and full tang screwdrivers doesn’t quite fit the hex bolster thing. You don’t always need the striking plate for chiseling, sometimes it’s just about seating the blade, regardless of the shape, into that shape of fastener that may/may not have some of its seating obstructed. So, there is a genuine purpose to having a set of screwdrivers that, if it has the feature and you need it, you have it ready there. Because they are still good at the other things you use it for, and you’re guaranteed to have the necessary assist with you, no matter how much you use it.
I can’t say that for these Bolsters. If they added strength to already good quality screwdrivers, then great. Nothing has changed there. The quality of the screwdrivers aren’t compromised, and they offer lots, and lots of possibilities. It’s just that the Bolsters come in so many sizes, and you’re not guaranteed to be carrying THAT sized wrench in order to achieve the intended handy uses. And by the time you narrow down all the situations where you’d need that, the lack of standardization hurts it instead of helps it. Not to mention that other tools can be far, far more useful when having to use it in a dedicated use for those purposes.
It’s a very good IDEA… but their execution of it, not using the same size Bolster for all the screwdrivers, or not including some sort of standardized high-torque handle/device to carry with you… it hurts the idea that this is what they have the Bolsters for. If they fix that? I think these types of Screwdrivers would be fantastic to have, much like the full tang, and strike plate screwdrivers would be. Because it offers features that neither take away functionality, nor hinder convenience of use otherwise. All while providing functions for those times you might need it, but don’t want to go searching for a new tool. For the sake of all those people who need to be efficient on what they carry, the Bolsters idea needs work. I don’t think it should go away. I just don’t see it as having been executed properly.
If you were to show me a Screwdriver set, with all the various blade types, with a full tang, a striking plate, a standardized Hex Bolster including a standardized wrench handle FOR said Hex Bolster, that was also ESD safe? I’d totally buy that set. It may seem like a lot of gimmicks built into a set of screwdrivers, but carrying that set around instead of a power tool would completely make sense to me. That would be the ultimate “Just In Case You Need It” Screwdriver set. You wouldn’t have to care what came at you while the job was getting done, it would be a set capable of handling it. As it stands right now? These Hex Bolsters are all of 2 complaints away from being great tools. They aren’t standardized with the Hex Bolster size (You’d have to carry around many wrenches to figure out which one goes with which screwdriver, adding to the load you carry), and barring that, they don’t come with a wrench or handle that guarantees that everyone who buys one has full use of its capabilities.
Otherwise… Everything you all are saying fits exactly. I don’t see these as a failure, just an incomplete idea.
Porphyre
Interesting comments. I think only one guy mentioned camming out.
Hex bolsters and/or hex shaped shafts are AWESOME when you need them.
1) Put ratcheting wrench on hex portion.
2) Put screwdriver into screw.
3) Apply entire body weight to screw driver.
4) Ratchet the screw right out.
That’s the main purpose of the hex wrench method – being able to apply huge amounts of force towards the fastener to prevent cam-out.
Brian
Exactly and only the two of us seem to understand this. You could do it with a ratchet and bit socket but you can’t push down nearly as hard without risking injury to your fingers(unless you grab an extension, even then the screwdriver is more comfortable), so it will cam out…and you also have to grab a second set of tools. I keep the appropriate wenches with my hex bolster screwdrivers, easy and does exactly what I need to do.
Steve
I have a Question I know it’s off topic but I have heard several reports of Dewalt actually not being 20 volts but 18 volts I thought this wasn’t true but until last week a Milwaukee Rep showed me the back of a dewalt 20v max drill set were it said in the bottom right. not actually 20 volts or something like that. but anyways is dewalt 20 volt actually 18v I have a dewalt 20v max drywall screwgun due to Milwaukee not having one… but do I actually have a dewalt 18v max drywall screwgun please explain.
Stuart
Yes, Dewalt 20V Max batteries run at 18V nominally. That’s why they are 20V Max and not just 20V.
The same tools and batteries are advertised as 18V XR outside North America.
Steve
Oh now I understand. Thanks for clarifying Staurt.
Andrew
If it’s a good strong screwdriver, and I’m using it on a stuck/seized screw, I’ll press as hard as I can on the handle. That makes it hard to twist the driver however. I’ll used a box wrench on the hex bolster to to the twisting on the driver.
Michael
If you are carrying tools across a ten acre roof, you can’t carry every tool you might possibly need for unforseen problem. Having the hex bolster can save you a walk back across the roof, down the stairs and back to the shop.
fred
I figured that Harbor Freight would likely have a knockoff – but theirs is slightly different – with the bolster at the top of the handle:
http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-bolstered-screwdriver-set-94899.html
Benjamen
I have a set of Snap-on Screwdrivers with bolsters that I really like, but I can’t think of a situation where I’ve used the bolsters.
Rather than bolsters I wonder if 1/4″ hex shaft like on John’s Wera screwdrivers or the set of 8pc Dewalt Max fit screwdrivers I own might be more useful. One, the hex shaft is the same on all 8 screwdrivers so you only need one size wrench (1/4″). Two you can seat the wrench anywhere along the shaft — even close to the tip, where I think it might be easier to apply more torque than way up by the handle.
The downsides I can see is the 1/4″ hex shaft may be more prone to slipping, especially if you are using an adjustable wrench. The other issue is that a 1/4″ wrench just isn’t that long, so you’ll be limited on how much torque you can apply.
Kyle
When I was a kid and didn’t have anyone strong or smart with tools around to help me I would jut put a pair of channel locks right on the handle of my old stinky craftsman screwdrivers so I could get enough leverage to remove the screws on my motorcycle engine. Of course I would never do that now that I buy my own tools but when I saw these Hex bolsters I thought how nice that would have bee back then. I think these types of drivers have their place and can be really great for some people. Maybe the fastener is recessed a ways so a bit socket is too short or too wide or maybe you’re doing repetitive teardown work and why not give yourself a little extra leverage to break it loose even if if you don’t really NEED it.
Another factor to consider is these hex bolsters and strike through caps often come as a package. The drivers like Wera Chisel drivers that have the full tang are much heavier than regular drivers so if you’re carrying them from job to job that might need to be factored in.
Nathan
I prefer the bolsters if they exist. I have 2 sets of regular drivers and honestly I don’t think I’ve used one set in some 10 years.
Bolstered ones tend to be better made, sturdier, better handles. and the hex bolsters at least on mine tend to be virtually perfect sizes. IE the #3 philips is probably an exact 9/16th or some such. Point is box end wrench goes on snug and clean – you can lever on it hard. In many tight places this is your only option – like say inside a nose landing gear well.
However – most of the time I have my ratcheting driver handle and bits – but I always keep 2 phillips and 2 flats in the bag (larger sizes). I do sort of like the idea of a through metal shaft with a striking end cap.
Keith Whitmore
I am 68 years young and having been using tools since I was 12 years old. So for 56 years that i have been using tools so far, i only used the hex bolster once. That’s one time in 56 years. So, if the price of the drivers is more, I would nix it.
Ben
Never needed a bolstered screwdriver but when it comes to rusty brake rotors on a Honda then this does the trick nicely. http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-00947641000P
Max
I don’t have any personally, however I think they would be nice for the emergency kit in the car. At home I would just use the impact driver. Can’t always do that when stranded somewhere.
T
Hex bolster is a must. Period. All of my screwdrivers are bolstered. Learned years ago to use what works the 1st time and not dinker around with hacking bits and wrenches together with duct tape, lol. I use the ratcheting end of combo wrenches when needed. Slide the blade thru and away we go.
I have read alot about “too much torque will cam out the phillips” – complete nonsense imo. For one, no #2 phillips on Earth will be seated with more torque than a 12″ long wrench can apply for removal. I have not cammed a phillips or torx in years, literally.
If one is using the correct size driver (with a quality ground head profile – DIN comes to mind), and properly seated in the screwhead, no cam out will occur, ever. I have actually removed damaged phillips and torx with a wrench assisted screwdriver.
I also utilize the striking caps to shock screws that are seized and to seat the blade into the screw head, same principal as an impact driver. Learn to use the tools properly i guess.
robert
Many of my screwdrivers have hex bolsters.
Tried it for fun once… awkward.
If figure, if you got wrenches… you probably got a ratchet and bit sockets. :0
As for through handle + steel cap screwdrivers. 🙂
I’ve got a full set of the Wiha Microfinish versions.
The PH get used for nasty screws that need a good ol’ whack and turn.
Mostly outdoors situations.
I’d like to say I do the same with the slotted drivers, but we all know how I really use them. Best handled pry bars ever. 🙂
I also really prefer the balance of heavy duty screwdrivers over your standard fair.
Joe
A good phillips with a hex bolster is essential for me.
I do fabrication and from time to time I get a really troublesome phillips screw.
Sure, sometimes I can cut it off with a air chisel, but some times you can’t.
I have some Snap-On phillips head sockets for my ratchet and occasionally use those, but to be honest, they don’t bite as well as my best phillips with a hex bolster.
I suppose a bit socket with a phillips head and ratchet could work, ir you have a really good phillips tip to use. I use them a lot and don’t always have a new one around for that troublesome screw when it appears, and frankly it’s more hassel to dig out those three items and put them together than to just grab a good phillips with hex bolster.
i’ve used mine quite a bit. It has saved my @$$ a number of times. I wouldn’t want to be without it.
Joe
One of the things that makes a good hex bolster driver is a broad flat end I can put a lot of force on. The Phillips head design (a poor design IMHO ) forces the driver out and away from the screw under heavy torque, so a broad end helps to get some weight/force on it.
I have seen some with rounded narrow ends that make the bolster useless. Another poorly thought out design.
Dave N.
Hex bolsters? Personally, I love them. For one thing, screwdrivers with bolsters tend to be built better than normal types, although I’d rather have a hammer cap on the end of my screwdriver than a hex bolster, if I had to choose. Amazing what a few good taps can do to a frozen screw. I’ve used an adjustable wrench with the bolster a few times, when I didn’t have time to apply a rust-busting spray, or have handy a breaker bar, 3/8 socket bit holder, extension, and appropriate insert bit. I have a few (5) Wiha Extra Heavy Duty screwdrivers, and they’re my best drivers, by far. I also have a few different Chinese sets of tang-thru screwdrivers that have held up far better than their weaker standard counterparts