The Sharp Pog is a drill-operated oscillating multi-tool blade sharpener that fits in standard 3/8″ and 1/2″ chucks.
It’s premise is simple – the Sharp Pog can “quickly sharpen old, dull, worn blades,” with its stack of spaced-out grinding discs.
The Sharp Pog sharpener “creates an ideal tooth profile on your dull or worn-out carbon steel blades” getting you “back to work in minutes.”
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- 3/8″ arbor shaft
- 1.5″ wide grinding profile
- 3″ x 1/32″ x 3/8″ Type 1 aluminum oxide grinding discs
- Bonded and dual-reinforced grinding disc construction
- A46R(BF) grit/grade/hardness rating
The Sharp Pog works on carbon steel oscillating blades, and you’ll want to keep in mind the 1.5″ grinding width.
Here’s a demo from ToolsinAction:
I’ve seen criticisms about how the grinding might change the temper and heat treatment of sharpened blades.
During our kitchen remodel a few years ago, our contractor used an oscillating multi-tool to cut clearance holes into the upper cabinet for the hood and exhaust fan.
They didn’t really cut the wood panels; it seems they were on their last blade towards the end of the day, and the blade was so dull they were burning through the wood.
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That’s where I can see a sharpener like this coming in handy.
It seems that the Sharp Pog could be convenient for giving dull blades new life, especially when replacement blades aren’t immediately available.
I doubt you’re going to be cutting through metal with a resharpened blade, but I would expect it to be capable of cutting through softer construction materials such as 2x4s and similar, at least in a pinch.
Is this something you would add to your tool kit? Thoughts?
MM
This might be useful for getting a little extra life out of some blades, if their tooth spacing just so happens to match the spacing of the discs on this tool. Otherwise I have low expectations, and I’d just rather have more blades instead.. What are the chances of my tooth count matching the spacing between the grinding discs in this too? Very low. What are the chances that the sharpening angle will be correct? That’s easy: Zero.
Jared
Couldn’t you just grind your blade flat and add new teeth instead of trying to match the existing profile?
I agree though, more blades sounds better.
MM
That would depend on the blade. Most “bimetal” blades, which are the type I prefer, have a very narrow section of tool steel welded to a plain carbon steel blade. Better ones have carbide teeth brazed to a steel backing. Once that is worn down there is only the base metal of the blade, meaning you can’t really resharpen it once the hard steel is gone.
There’s also he question: even if there was good steel available to “sharpen”, would a random stack of discs do the job properly? In my opinion, no. Sharpening angle matters a great deal in my opinion. A stack of discs will never have the correct geometry.
Jared
Fair enough. It’s obvious this disc machine isn’t going to produce sharp tooth geometry either. It would just scratch at the surface instead of cutting – but maybe with rough cuts and thin blades, it still works.
BigTimeTommy
If I had a chance to try one and it worked remotely well I’d buy one. Oscillating blades are extremely overpriced consumables and they don’t last long enough, especially if you cut a lot of drywall.
Travis
Buy them on Amazon they’re less than a dollar a piece when bought in bulk
Chris S
You can buy 50 blades for $30 on amazon and they last plenty long enough for most jobs. Like any multi tool blade, just don’t overheat the blades and they last forever.
Michael Hammer
I went that route once and the weld consistently gave out before the teeth, sometimes within a few minutes. The result is the same cost per good blade with a ton more aggravation.
Jared
I’m trying to decide if this is a good idea or not. I like the novelty.
High-end blades often have carbide tips, titanium-nitride coatings, tempered teeth, cutting profiles cut into the teeth, etc. Obviously that’s gone when you reprofile. But if they are just HSS – it seems like it could work.
The way it’s used in the ToolsinAction clip though, that blade temper is gone – the fellow sharpening the blade overheats it so bad the steel turns blue and it smokes when he cuts into the 2×4. Sure, it cuts – but only because unhardened steel is still harder than wood. It’s not going to last.
Seems like you would have to go slow and/or cool the blade in water as you sharpen. I also wonder how long it lasts. It’s not cheap, but if it sharpens a lot of blades… those aren’t cheap either.
JR Ramos
Loss of temper wouldn’t be a thing with a HSS or carbide tooth…not how it works even if there is discoloration from heat. Annealing HSS is quite a process and impossible to do with “work heat”, for lack of a better term. HCS or worse, sure…it’s a thing…and that video looks like it was probably a cheap stainless blade. It’d be easy enough to sharpen it in a smarter way and/or temper it afterwards. I think I’d rather just set up a cutting blade on the bench grinder and quickly touch up each tooth individually but I’m more likely to just use a new blade and pass the cost on where possible as part of the job.
Titanium…it’s so thin and so poorly applied with cheap tooling like this (these days)…its best advantage is not the hardness but the lubricity for some materials, and it’s on the uncut surfaces and non-cutting edges where it will serve its purpose. There is little to none on the actual cutting edges to begin with (also true to a degree with milling cutters but less so) and it’s usually worn away in very short order. Applying ti or other coatings has become much less expensive to do, so you see it everywhere and even on cheap-cheap items, but most of it isn’t a quality coating. For OMT blades, given their wild nature, I’ve never seen it as any advantage over bare HSS teeth. It’s mostly worthless on cheap step/tree drill bits as well but can be an ok choice on decent twist bits but there are far better options these days.
KYLE
The appearance of that tool doesn’t not seem that it will actually grind a sharp tooth.
blocky
Good for some things I suppose. Maybe not for precision hardwood cut-outs, but if you just need some kind of edge for drywall, or foam, maybe this is a good way to get extended life out of a cheap blade.
Looks like I could make one fairly easily.
Saulac
Like it or not, this is not “sharping” in the traditional sense. This is cutting new teeth. The teeth will be square and are bigger than any factory teeth, including drywall teeth. As mentioned the tool is made from the standard 3” cutting discs. If I must to resort to doing this, and I have, I would just grab my disc cutter.
kent_skinner
It seems like a decent idea, and could probably breathe some extra life into a blade.
I checked the price and was surprised at the $45 price tag. It lost a lot of its charm.
Ray
I would say it’s hot, too hot to sharpen properly therefore the device is not hot.
Nathan
Not needed and would not buy. I wouldn’t expect that to cut the same or similar tooth on the better quality blades I bought. Now I don’t use them everyday but they have held up for years for me.
If I was in trades where I used them daily I’d buy more blades at a time. And there are a lot of great ones to choose from
So pass. Doesn’t seem nearly as useful as a drill bit sharpener and I don’t own one of those either
Keiko
This is another option. More expensive, but much more refined and actually sharpens the teeth. If you are a heavy duty user, this can justify itself.
Tigers Teeth Oscillating & Reciprocating Blade Sharpener,
https://tigersteethblades.com/products/oscillating-multi-tool-reciprocating-blade-grinder-for-steel-blades
James
This looks super interesting. Any direct experience? There are 20x 5 star reviews, and they’re all way too positive for me to take them seriously. On the surface though, it looks far better than this pog thing which I don’t think has any value.
G G
This looks like a great machine. Just be aware that if you want to sharpen both HSS (bimetal) and carbide blades, you need to buy 2 machines. The long grinding wheel is different for each type and is not interchangeable. (Confirmed with the maker of the machine.)
Bonnie
I think I paid about $25 for a 40-pack of blades. Given this thing costs $45… It’d need to sharpen a lot of blades to make much sense for my DIY uses. I also doubt you’re ever going to get a particularly good tooth profile out of this stack of grinders.
Per your anecdote… Seems they’d also have been better off just packing more blades than chucking up a drill to badly sharpen them.
Jerry
Saw teeth have a set. Using this will cut new teeth with no set. Probably better than nothing to finish a job with the blades you have, but IMO, it needs to have a set to the teeth.
The taking of the temper out of the blades is another issue, which can be minimized by not letting the blade you are sharpening change colors from the sharpener.
In my humble opinion, better than nothing but probably not worth buying.
The low speed diamond sharpener another poster linked to would be better, IMO, but at $200 you’d need to sharpen a LOT of blades to justify it.
Albert
I cut a lot of drywall a few years ago using expensive Bosch bimetal blades. They didn’t last very long. I ended up using a triangle file, not so much to sharpen, but to create new teeth where the old ones completely wore away. It worked fine. If this sharpener existed back then (or if I knew about it), I would have given it a try. Now I’m using Diablo carbide blades, which seem to last longer, but I am also doing less drywall.
James
I bought one a few years back. Works decent, great when you’re in a pinch and don’t have a new blade on you. Sharpens good enough for drywall and soft woods. Unfortunately I dropped mine from about 2 feet and it broke some of the cutting wheels, making it worthless. I didn’t buy another after that.
Mr. Creek
I love the idea, especially during demo. I use my OMT so much and blades are expensive. My initial thoughts are POINTS for creativity. Other thoughts are as metal heats it softens. Not sure if that becomes a safety issue after multiple honing sessions. You can definitely see the blue burnt on the bottom of the blade. A stiff jig to use the long edge as a guide would be nice,
Not for finish work….
(Unless for the X’s new fling, who can’t instal a light switch. that with a little help with a cool tool, to show that to make jab cuts in the drywall just small enough to put the oversized face plate on. )
Also, 2 dudes, holding 2 tools, both using 2 hands.(Hmmm….)
I would enjoy some videos of a single operator holding both those free handed, and what happens if the operator is expecting the force of the drill needed to grind goes in one direction, but your left handed brain left it in reverse from the last job?
Michael Hammer
Not hot. It takes two guys to sharpen a blade? Silly. It’s not actually sharpening the blade. It’s putting new points on it which will dull way faster than a sharpened blade. Total gimmick. I don’t understand the concept of having it for when you’re in a pinch. There’s no excuse for not having enough blades on site. So with that in mind, it would be exceedingly rare to need to put cheesy new points on them.
On a side note, why would you cut framing lumber with a multi tool? Most often in construction you hear about guys using an axe when they should use a scalpel. I don’t know if I have ever heard of someone using a scalpel when they should be using an axe. 🤔. There’s an occasion for everything I suppose.
James
Perfectly said.
Marco Lima
After a couple years of owning it I hardly ever use it. Being a carpenter I find all the premium blades don’t last much longer than the cheap chinese/Amazon blades. With oscillating blades heat will kill the best/most expensive blade in seconds and in deep/hard material cuts I pull out often and dip it in water to cool. I have found a middle ground with EZArc blades. Their premium blades last nearly as long as diablo/fein blades without the premium price tag.
For rough cuts in nail embedded material the blades don’t leave a clean cut after a couple uses so for this sharpener that’s ok but it dulls so much faster than a usef premium blade. Finish cuts I only use new or bladed that only ever see finish materials.
Mike
Big fan of the EZARC blades. Idk why anyone still pays 10$+ for a single name brand blade. Biggest problem is the misuse of the tool and not using the right blade for what you’re cutting. Drives me nuts when I hear the binding and see them not moving the tool side to side to cut the smallest point of material possible.
Back to the topic. . I’ll pass on this gimmick
IronWood
Not for me. Any cost savings in saving a blade was spent in labor for two guys to “sharpen” it. If you really think you might have to save a blade to finish the day, throw a triangle needle file in your tool bag. I use my Fein OMT a lot; at home I buy Imperial blades, and my work buys Fein blades by the truckload. It looks to me like this Pog tool does a poor job of sharpening and does it inefficiently. Pass.
Pocket Handyman
Nice idea but there’s actually a BETTER device that addresses blade sharpening in a more sensible way (and no, I’m not getting any $ for mentioning this). There’s a comparison video on the website: https://youtu.be/8IJ1h0EBz0g The SharpPog wears down so quickly that it wouldn’t last long enough to recoup your investment. The TigersTeeth is a much more sensible design, and is much faster.
joseph w kay
made myself lol thinking about turning on the multitool while it’s on the grinder.
S
A cabinet guy I used to work with had one. He said it was literally useless for wood cutting, but was great for getting by with drywall cutting
Perry
I watched a video by seejanedrill on YouTube where she used a small triangular file to re-set the teeth on the blades. I started doing the same and it works fairly well
Gordon
I stopped buying bi-metal blades altogether. They just don’t last. Carbide blades are more expensive up front, but less expensive in the long run. A Diablo general purpose, bi-metal blade is about $11, and a Carbide blade is $15. Sawzall blades are a little more extreme with a bi-metal around $3 and the carbide around $10. But still worth every penny IMHO. They don’t bog down as much on nails and you don’t have to change out the blade as often.
Travis
I have one and so far I’ve had pretty good luck with it . I discovered that if I sharpen one side and get the teeth cut and then flip the blade over and match it to the grinding wheels it makes the blades super sharp. Pine, oak, walnut cut just as easy as a brand new blade and leaves a smooth cut with no grooves in the wood. I wouldn’t recommend this for fine cutting blades but for general cutting it works