I recently ordered 2 Seville 5-shelf wire shelving racks, assembled them over the weekend, and then ordered 2 more. The second batch arrived today, and I put them together rather quickly – in about 15 minutes each.
I’ve assembled many wire shelving racks in the past few years, and the process has definitely gotten easier and quicker. Here are some tips I picked up along the way.
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1. Read the instructions
If you have never assembled wire shelving before, read the instructions. Make sure you understand how it’s supposed to go together.
Once you’ve read the instructions, then consider the following tips.
Oh, and always make sure you have all the needed parts before you start.
2. Don’t attach the pole segments right away
Most taller wire shelving units, such as my 6-foot tall ones, have 2-part poles that screw together. Once I make sure I have the proper pieces, sometimes I will attach them together, other times I won’t.
For today’s wire shelving rack assembly, I did not connect the poles together first. I started with the bottom segments and installed 2 shelves before connecting the upper poles.
3. Start the first shelf on its side
I start off by attaching the plastic brackets to the 4 poles – or bottom pole sections – for the lowest shelf while holding the shelf vertical.
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Actually, no, the first thing I do is attach the caster wheels or leveling legs. Then I attach the first set of shelf brackets.
Holding the shelf vertically, I then insert the first 2 poles through the shelf support holes. I try to ensure that the shelf is reasonably secure around the plastic sleeves.
Then, I will weave the other 2 poles through the upper holes of the shelf – the ones that are at the top of the vertically-oriented shelf.
If I have a helper, I’m usually fine working with fully assembled poles. If it’s just me, I work with shorter half-length bottom poles.
I give those upper 2 poles a little twist to seat the plastic shelf supports a little more securely, and then lower the shelf until all 4 casters or leveling feet are on the floor.
Then, I will apply some weight or pressure on the corners of the bottom shelf, twisting the poles slightly. Or you could grab a deadblow hammer or rubber mallet, but I found that the twist-and-press approach is more foolproof.
4. Use the double-lines for guidance
Every wire shelving unit I have ever assembled had single grooves, and also double grooves at regular spacings. These double lines make it a lot easier to install a shelf’s worth of plastic support brackets at one time without measuring a thing.
5. Or use a height gauge
If you want the shelves to hold something in particular, such as medium sized moving boxes, place one on a shelf as a height gauge. Make sure there’s enough clearance and move the item around to each 4 corners to make sure your supports are all installed at the same height.
6. A dead blow hammer or rubber mallet is great for seating shelves
Sometimes a quick whack with a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet can better seat a shelf on its plastic supports.
Or… a sturdy workboot. Hey, I didn’t always have a healthy tool budget.
7. Ease shelves in place
If you slam a shelf down on its plastic supports, there’s a greater chance you’ll knock a support out of place. When that happens, you’ll have to lift the shelf, and hold it in place while you reattach the bracket halves.
Dropping a shelf onto its brackets too quickly can also lead to jamming, where one side drops quicker than the other. This can require a bit of effort to remedy, such as a quick upward strike with a rubber mallet.
Reader Tips
15 minutes each isn’t bad, but if I wanted to move quickly, I could probably assemble one of these 18″ x 48″ x 72″ 5-shelf wire shelving racks in about 10 minutes, maybe even less.
I don’t know how long it took me to put together my first wire shelving units, but I’m sure it was quite a bit longer than 15 minutes. Hopefully these tips will help you get your wire shelving units quicker and easier.
For those of you who have assembled more than a couple of wire shelving racks yourselves, Do you have any wire shelving rack assembly tips to share?
Final Tip
I have found that better quality wire shelving racks are often easier to assemble. Pole sections thread together more easily, and the plastic shelf support bracket halves are better made. Lesser brackets have thinner rings and slip more easily.
I have really been liking Seville’s wire shelving racks, which I ordered from Amazon. Previously I bought quite a few of their 4-shelf units, and now 5-shelf wheeled units.
Buy Now(via Amazon)
Mike
I have about a dozen of these shelving kits, which is a lot to those of us in the single digit l-boxx owners club. Mine are from Sam’s Club and I think they include six shelves each. I’ve had most of them for over a decade and they’ve been through a lot, electrician storage(hundreds of lbs of wire and tools), weld fab shop and auto tech duty, hydroponics and greenhouse duty plus at least four moves and a period of time in an active on-call and very large box truck to hold and transport tools and supplies for a construction crew. So bending, warping, even busted weld joints on one of the bottom shelves used to hold limestone are some issues that popped up. Also dealt with stripped threaded inserts that hold the poles together as well as several stripped casters(the threaded insert posts-hand tighten only, lesson learned).
I even crushed one of the vertical posts using a 10″ pliers wrench during assembly once in brilliantly planned attempt at avoiding scratching the “chrome” finish. Which leads me to my two tips:
1) use caution when cleaning these shelves. They apparently have a low grade clear coating that is easily worn off with common green Scotch cleaning pads or steel wool. Once the clear top coat wears off, the metal begins rusting rapidly.
2) during assembly, some carefully adjusted locking pliers attached on each post just under the insert sleeve provides an VERY effective jig to prevent slippage. The insert friction sleeves are only held on by a tiny, tiny ring/tab. That ring wears over time. Combined with warped and poorly manufactured shelves, worn and filth clogged ring notches on the vertical posts and/or annoyingly persistent oils on the sleeves etc etc…locking pliers (or clamps perhaps) can really aid assembly especially for one person work sessions.
I’ll add a quick generally useful suggestion: make sure to not lose any inserts(or any parts really) when the shelves are disassembled. It’s a real annoyance since they are vital to proper functioning but are somewhat uncommon as well as easy to lose since each shelf kit uses about two dozen. They are pretty fragile also, they will crack if you step on one with a shoe clad foot or anything similarly heavy.
Even though these shelves are about as cheap as they get for this style(six shelves, 18″ x 48″ x 72″ with casters, two locking and plastic shelf covers for flat surface storage functioning: $100 each) I was impressed enough with the value to look very well in greenhouse duty.
BTW, if you pay attention, you’ll spot these shelves, or other similar Metro-style shelves at least, being used on the sets in unbelievably large numbers of films and shows. They can be spotted EVERYWHERE it seems.
Stuart
That brings me to another point: the plastic sleeves are not always interchangeable between manufacturers.
I bought some HDX units from Home Depot, and one of the sleeves were broken. Spares I had on-hand didn’t fit, so I had to wait for the OEM to send replacements. The ones I had on-hand had deeper rings, the HDX ones were shallower. The HDX unit had a lower per-shelf load rating.
firefly
Most of the time you can swap out the whole set but not individual piece.
Jonathan
Love the locking vise-grips carefully adjusted tip! Awesome tip.
Ray Kirkman
I am trying to disassemble a 3 tier Seville Classics shelf and store it in it’s original box. The corner posts are 36 inches assembled and will not fit in original box without being disassembled. I cannot unscrew the posts and cannot find the joint to apply a lubricant. Can you help me or offer suggestions?
Stuart
I’m sorry, I’m not quite sure to advise. Perhaps strap wrenches? Strap wrenches provide extra leverage while *usually* being gentle enough to not mar finished surfaces.
Ross
Take a hair dryer and heat the post at the joint. Heat only ONLY ONE post on ONE side of the join. This will expand the ONE POST and loosen it.
Farid
I enjoyed reading your tips. I use the same exact method, as I never have any help when assembling these. I do use a rubber mallet as well. Good write up.
I try to set mine up so larger totes and boxes fit on the bottom and smaller boxes fit on top. This helps with stability.
For my needs, I am happy with the Seville classics and I especially love the plastic liners that come with mine. I did once have a 4-plastics sleeves that were missing the rib that mated with the notches on the rods (there was just a tiny thin line instead of a rib). I called Seville and asked for replacement. The Service person was not particularly friendly that day, but nevertheless they dispatched a few pieces free of charge via snail mail. I did not have to provide a receipt, which helped ease the process.
I noticed on the last couple of sets I bought that extra plastic sleeves were included.
Farid
Oops, I forgot about one tip. For those instances when the plastic sleeve does not want to stay put long enough to slide the shelve over, a small piece of double-sided scotch tape placed between the pole and the sleeve work great. It’s thin enough not cause any interference.
RC WARD
I have had about 3 of the “Seville” brand units and they have been great. Not a fan of the cheap little connectors on any of these things though. Got to be a better way but maybe not. I like the “Read the instructions” then do it your own way method. #TIACREW
Stuart
It sounds silly, but when putting something like this together for the first time, there are plenty of mistakes that can be made.
A few years ago, I was working on something when an officemate asked for my help putting together a wire shelving rack in their lab. I joined them and spotted 2 mistakes being made. They tried to attach shelves upside down, which you can’t do since the support sleeves are tapered. Then, they failed to notice that each sleeve had “TOP” written on it with an up arrow. Reading the instructions would have saved them a lot of time.
Jim Felt
If these Metro Wire knock offs offer a 600# per shelf load rating their post grooves and subsequent split black plastic sleeves should all be interchangeable. Though I’ve no experience with knock down posts except some Costco units we’ve used as props. Not actual use. And I’ve no idea what they might be load rated at.
garrett
I’ve bought, put together and kit-bashed at least a dozen of these from several different companies. I find a 2′ piece of 2×4 to be very useful for setting these up. A rubber hammer can still leave marks or bends, but lay the 2×4 across the corner of the shelf before seating it, and you’ll prevent all damage.
Also, I’ve found that some brands’ clips have 1 retaining ridge/cleat/whatever, some have 2. Obviously, 2 is better.
Fede
Over the years I assembled a few dozens of this some times by my self others with help for the company I used to work for on a computer repair line we used them as test stations so my way of doing it alone is first I don’t attach the poles together I only add the casters then I hold the shelf on one side and stick each pole with they’re proper plastic retainers till I have all four legs place then I will stand the wire rack make my self a template stick and add all four plastic retainers on poles at desired spacing. Slowly place the shelf and then add the extension poles and continue with the rest of the shelves time wise am not sure but I would say 15 to 20 min each.
I rather do it right the first time than work twice
danDlyons
I have a dozen of these units, some Seville, some other brands but all interchangeable.. I had problems with the stock casters. I tried moving them with a heavy load and when the caster hit a joint in the concrete it sheered the wheel right out of the tube. I was cautious after that, unloading some crates first. But a friend decided to tidy up my shop one day and took out several casters in the process.
To prevent this from happening again, I bought replacements that had full size inserts, a solid slug that fills tube interior, rather than the threaded type. The caster wheels are 5″ rather than 4″. I bought the new casters at a Costco Business center that carried a lot of restaraunt supplies.
I took me a while to figure out how to remove the threaded inserts. I ended up using a piece of rebar and placing the the tubing over it and with a few good whacks the threaded insert would pop out.
I found a number of wire shelving accessories at Target. They sell hooks, baskets, hanger rails, and drawers all if which can attach to the Seville shelves. The were marked down after their back to school promotion.
firefly
I have putted more than a dozen of these together in my lifetime. The Metro commercial grade were the easiest to install. The post also have number marking for each inches increment.
Part are usually interchangeable in sets for example you can use all the post from one company and all the shelve from others. Same with the clips, all should come from the same brand for each of the shelve.
We usually install the first two shelves on the side then flip the whole thing over. We usually either look for the number marking or just counting the mark on the one that doesn’t have those on the first shelves. Once the the first one is done we just use that one as our reference model.
Tonya Lillie
Here’s a tip no one has mentioned. I once spent an afternoon putting several of these together and all was going well until the last shelf. Every single time I tried to press the shelf over the plastic sleeves the sleeves would break. I went through several sleeves before I figured out the problem – some of the holes in the shelf corners had metal burrs! So whenever I’d tap the shelf corner with my mallet to seat it over the plastic sleeves, the metal burr would just shatter the sleeve! I must have done that at least three times before I figured it out. I kept thinking it was the cheap plastics fault. I ended up having to take apart that entire shelf and exchange it. What a pain.
Charles
My method is totally different. I can do a set in about 20 minutes with no helpers and I don’t have to tilt/flip/spin the set. I put the casters on last. Start by stacking all the shelves up so the corners line up, right side up obviously. Then put the poles in each corner of the stacked shelves. Lift the top shelf up, above one side set of poles. Put the clips on the poles, ease the shelf down. Do the other side. As mentioned, use a 12-24″ 2×4 to spread the force of the rubber mallet (or second 2×4 used as a mallet) or you’ll bend the shelves. Once the top shelf is in place it goes faster. I can reach through the shelf with one hand and grab the next shelf up with my fingers, and use my other hand to put all the clips in place. I find the clips stay in place better if the split is at a 45 degree angle, with only one split visible from the outside of the corner. Once all the shelves are in place, lift one end of the shelves by the poles, block under one pole with a few 2×4 stacked, put one caster in. Put one 2×4 under the caster for clearance and put the other caster in. Move to the other end and repeat. With no need to set the assembled or partly assembled shelves on its back/side you need less clear floor space to set up.
Darla
Can anyone tell me how to connect two sets together? I purchased two separate sets, each having just three shelves. Each set stands about 30″ high. I want to connect the second set of shelves to the first one but it didn’t come with any extra connectors to do this. At the Home Depot where I purchased these they actually had some that were six shelves high so I know they somehow connected two sets together.
Stuart
You cannot.
Taller units have separate top and bottom poles. The bottom ones have threaded inserts for feet or casters on one end, and female-threaded holes on the other. Top poles have female-threaded holes on one end, and a capped hole on the other.
Either the top or bottom are pre-loaded with a male-threaded stud. This allows the top and bottom connect to each other via this threaded stud.
Your poles might not be threaded, in which case the threaded studs won’t help you anyway. If they are threaded, you *might* be able to buy the connectors separately.
Shorter shelving racks sometimes have smaller shelves, and it could be risky to connect them together even if you could. It might pose a much greater tip-over hazard.
If you want a 60″ tall shelving unit, it will be much easier for you to buy one, or to buy just the poles separately if you can. It’s often more economical to buy a new set than to source 4 poles or pole sets.
If the replacement set is of the same brand and size, you should be able to mix and match shelves for higher shelf-count.
Jim Felt
Metro Wire the original design patent holder still exists as do their vast line of compatible posts. I believe they still offer 84″ posts as do many online resellers. Both Metro and a bunch of compatible knockoffs.
Jim Felt
In fact I just Googled and found posts up to 96″ tall. Who knew? But I’d really really wall attach them or set them up in a L pattern or even back to back for stability at that height.
Linda W
Darla, if you bought the 3 tier shelving units from Home Depot, those can be put together. I actually did by leaving space on the one unit’s poles, being used for the bottom and then put plastic clamps on the poles’ seams. Then I slid the shelf down onto the clamps, making sure that it didn’t move. It stabled the unit being used as the higher shelves. The result is a 5 tier sized shelving with a extra “skinny”shelf in the middle, best for holding magazines or other thin stuff. It is also best if you have another person to help.
Michele
Ok. Maybe I’m dense or just showing my blonde, but I tried and tried and the clips popped of every time I tried to slid the shelf down. I watched all the videos repeatedly and could not understand how it looked so easy while I was completely unable to do so. That is until my husband looked and said d he thought I had the shelve upside down. I still don’t know whether to hug him or throw something at him… After his illuminating comment the entire process took less than 30 min. and my art studio is fabulously organized.
Stuart
Glad it worked out well in the end!
Having the shelves upside down is the kind of mistake you only make once. And don’t worry, you’re not the first or last person to do that.
Steve Hedger
Anyone ever had any issues with Metro shelves especially the gondola type.
I have an employee that has injured a shoulder and want to know it it’s a common occurrence.
Terry
Lot of great ideas wish u could buy clips in store
Tom Semich
Does anyone have any tips in working with poles with tapered split pin connectors. They are a bear to get together or apart
ErikaTheEvil1
Buy your chrome or black wire shelf units from Uline .com, they also sell additional shelf, poles, shelf sides, wire & solid dividers for shelf & those pesky black plastic 2-piece split support connectors.
Tom D
I wonder who makes Uline’s as I have a corner version and they don’t sell extra corner shelves.
Koko The Talking Ape
The few brands of wire shelving I’ve tried have all been compatible. So far that’s been Metro, Global and Amazon.
So you might try ordering corner shelves from somebody like Global, which stocks a very wide range of components, and seeing if it works. I guess you could always return them.
Good luck!
Tom D
I ended up buying a second shelf set from Uline and some spare shelves to use up the extra poles.
Dang the Uline shelves (non corner ones) go together really nicely. Like butter. No banging at all.
Bob Jones
I have the Designer’s Image 4-Shelf Kit from Menard’s.
https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5bcf75e401232c76ee60e8e2/t/5beedae38985830d486247ca/1542380264937/Wire+Shelves+Assembly+Instructions+copy.pdf
The plastic sleeves are double-grooved, but the two pieces do not snap together and close completely around the posts. There’s a gap in one side, like a puzzle piece that doesn’t quite fit.
Is this the way these things are actually supposed to fit? I’m already wondering how the thin grooves are going to support 350 pounds per shelf, as the manufacturer claims. If the sleeve parts don’t fit together flush, that’s going to provide even less support.
The sleeves are marked “Up” and the shelves labeled “NFW” to help with orientation, so I know there are no issues there.
Stuart
In my experiences, there is usually a slight gap between the two plastic sleeve halves, even with products that have higher load ratings.
When you think about it, the gap is necessary. Try to visualize what happens when you slide a shelf on top of the plastic sleeves. The tapered socket of the shelf will compress the sleeve a little bit, pressing them together and the shelf is essentially wedged in place.
Now, what would happen if there were no gap? With a shelf placed on top, if the two halves of the plastic sleeves touching end-to-end, there’s a chance that you’ll have imperfect engagement where the sleeves’ ring rests within the groove on the post.
As long as the gap is small, which is what I’ve experienced, it’s likely by intent. If it’s a huge gap, there might be an issue with the sleeves or the sleeves that are packaged with the order.
Jennifer
I also see the gap between the clips I thought they just did not fit but now I know the gap is good. Any idea how to keep the clips on the pole while the shelf is placed in too of them. The clips tend to fall off the pole. Just did not know if I’m doing something wrong or just need to place them more carefully over the clips. Thank you
Stuart
Unfortunately, I don’t have a solution for falling clips, other than to be slow and careful. Even then, they sometimes slip during installation.
MM
Thin double-sided tape. You don’t need much just a little square is enough to hold.
Stuart
I wouldn’t put anything between the post and the plastic clips, even thinner double-sided tape.
There is such little engagement – just a little plastic ring that sits in grooves on the post – that improvisations can potentially impact holding strength.
If you’re careful and know exactly what you’re doing, maybe it’s something to try, but I wouldn’t risk it.
MM
I’ve used the double sided tape trick on countless racks over the years and it’s never given me any issues, even for racks heavily loaded with machining vises and fixtures. Just to be clear I don’t mean the foam style of double stick tape, I mean the clear stuff, same thickness as ordinary office “scotch tape”. A tiny piece is all that’s needed, just a half inch square is enough. I assume it’s obvious to not get the tape in the actual locking groove. I put it at the opposite end of the tapered wedges, farthest away from the groove.
This is the exact product I’ve used:
https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Dispenser-Engineered-Holding-136/dp/B00004Z47L
Stuart
I can see that working, and will keep it in mind. But, it also seems easy to overdo it or for someone to hear “double sided tape” and find mounting tape at the store.
It might also be worth taping the bottom clip haves together, on the outside, and removing the tape before shelves are fully seated.
Frank D
I cornfirm. Having assembled dozens of these, from a few different brands over the last 20 years; the black halves that you put on four posts to slide the shelf down on, never quite “ snap snap “ together fully . They touch and interlock for the most part but there remain gaps. Some I have done I could easily do as one person, some worked better as a duo, as they tended to slide down. Just have to take it in stride an be ready to play around a bit.
Bob Jones
Thanks you, Stuart and Frank, for your helpful replies!
I’m beginning to grasp the concept of the gapped sleeve parts, although I have no plans to fully test the shelves’ listed capacity.
I’m using Charles’s (see link) method to assemble my shelf kit.
https://14cyiuhvcgv.com/tips-for-assembling-a-wire-shelving-rack/#comment-1057668%3C/a%3E%3C/p%3E
Frank D
Good luck!
They go together quick.
Those instructions you linked work a treat.
Instead of a rubber hammer, I always use a scrap piece of 2×4 or similar. And wear ear protection. Rubber mallet edges get damaged easily from hitting the ridges. Gentle small taps going post to post to snug them up.
I have had them loaded pretty good, even used them in moving containers ( wheels removed ) not an issue.
On my heaviest load one, during a move, I did bend a wheel ( lifted one side to go up a step, one of the two wheels on the concrete bent, my fault for not emptying in). Other than that. They’re quite capable.
Several I have adjested and re-adjusted over time. No big deal. After time, the posts may not want to halve though and putting grips to undo them marks the surface too easily. So I have just dealt with the six ft poles. No biggie.
Frank D
PS: correction, the rubber mallet damage was from the standard sheel rack assembly / disassembly ( not the wired wheeled shelves ), they have sharper edges and require more force … and are then noisier to put together or make adjustments to.
Bob Jones
Many thanks for the quick responses and great information.
My shelves are now assembled, parked in the basement and loaded with pandemic tuna, tomato sauce, beans and toilet paper.
Michael M
The last two I assembled are “twisted”. The shelves are level but the entire rack looks like the top shelf and the bottom shelf were twisted in different directions horizontally. In other words if I laid the unit on its side the uprights would not be flat with the floor. Someone mentioned the shelves may have been seated too firmly ( too many whacks with the hammer ) to cause this. Any ideas?
Chris
Any tips to repair threaded caster/foot mounts?
Movers rolled them out without unloading the shelves and the little threaded plugs came out when they hit pavement joints. They will go back in but are now loose in the pipe.
Stuart
Unfortunately, nothing short of welding them back in place will help. Unless, if they’re threaded you might be able to find some kind of solution. You could contact the manufacturer to see what they advise. If it’s a pricier unit, you might just have to purchase a replacement support section.
Caroline
I need help with attaching two of the upper posts on a 72-inch InterMetro shelving unit. Two thread properly. The other two will not thread.
MA
I purchased basket shelves to go with a different unit and they require a larger diameter pole. Is there any way to still use these? Any tricks? I tried placing the smaller plastic sleeve inside of the larger one but still loose.
Stuart
Unfortunately, not that I know of.
Mike
I need to find fine thread connectors for my wire shelves i purchased used from different suppliers. The only one I can find are .035 coarse thread. Can you tell me where i can find the correct ones?
Stuart
You should be able to find these online, but whether they’ll work is a different story as it seems there are several incompatible standards. Maybe start by measuring the diameter of the vertical poles.
Fred T.
Is it advisable to smear a little lubricating grease to the black shelving clips so that disassembling or adjusting becomes easier? Many times the shelves on my wire shelving systems seize up and I can’t make them budge.
Stuart
I’d say no, as these rely on friction fit. I’ve assembled and disassembled many wire shelving units. A dead blow mallet and maybe safety goggles help to loosen things up.